spork

It looks like I've got some work to do. You're coming up on me fast and I'm sitting here fighting clutch problems again. I guess its time to ditch the T-5! Powerglide here we come....

sounds good...Just don't go faster than my car! Honestly tho, thats doing pretty good, but there will be some definete power to be made later on with some head work and a cam. 400hp on this set up isn't far off tho. A little more boost and some real tuning and you'll be there. Good luck!

160-175 w/ a 170 degree thermastat. Only time it gets hotter than that is is serious stop and go traffic on 105+ degree days and even then it stays below 190

No offense meant here man, but can you speak in sentences? Your posts read like your writing a classified add where you get billed by the word count. It makes it kind of annoying to read. If english isn't your first language, I appologize, but I'm having a hard time getting through it to help answer your questions. As far as the turbo lag, have you varified you don't have any boost leaks? Thats where I would start.

I'd be interested in 1/2 as well...and how many would need to be bought to get them at $50 or less?

Welcome! As Larry said, most anything can be found here by searching the archives. Try searching using different word combos and you can almost always find the answer. If not, the search will allow you to refine your question and ask one that isn't so general like "I want to swap a v8 in, how much does it cost?".

I suppose alot of it depnds on the exact T3/T4 turbo you're running. With the correct setup, yes, it can be done....but I'm not sure what you mean by a conservative cam...is it stock, or not? Anyways, you're probably going to be getting close to 30psi...and thats a lot to ask for on most hybrid turbos. Better figure on race gas, and getting your timing curve down just right. If you spent a little money to have the head ported it would help a lot, butyou'll have several things to upgrade once you want to get any more power than that goal (cam, turbo, port work, etc.) All that said, I hope your tuning skills are good, because at that power level on a stock engine, there is absolutely no room for mistakes. All of this is also assuming your bottom end is in excellent mechanical condition.

Yes...pull the cover! Otherwise you might just be getting a welded diff...and that would be dissapointing to say the least.

its trashed...find another one to upgrade with or go with a t3/t4 hybrid and you'll be a lot happier anyways. The GN compressor wheel isn't much of a step up from stock. If you're going to spend the money, a hybrid willmake you much happier

Eh, I've never worried about the reputation thing. Everyone has a pretty good idea who knows there stuff, and who doesn't...

I'd second that. Either the clutch master or slave have probaby gone out. If you replace one, replace them both. If just one is replaced the other one almost always fail shortly after. Replace the rubber line while you're at it as well.

It looks a lot more complicated than it really is. Just measure several times before you end up drilling, and you'll be fine.

yes. The "F" system will eliminate the distributor completely. It allows you to have full control of ignition this way.

Most people upgrade for one of 3 reasons. They're upgrading injectors to an o-ring style injector, they hate pulling the stock rail off, or they want to clean up the engine bay and make it look a lot simpler and dress things up a bit. Or any combination of the 3. We make custom fuel rails as well if you're interested. As far as an actual need for a new rail when using the stock injectors, there is no need...just want. The stock rail will support a moderate turbo build or a very extreme N/A build without a problem.

I second the choice for Ferrea valves...exellent quality. I'm running them in my p90 head on my personal car. Something to think about tho is that these valves are actually pretty heavy. I never weighed one but it was noticeably different than a stocker. So, the quesion is, do you really need oversized valves and what are your plans for the car. Braap has described the requirements for running the valves very well, but I definetly wouldn't do only those items. A full port job to match your car's intended use is highly reccomended to gain the most from the oversized valves. All that said, I was talking to a customer awhile back that was having his head done locally and they were doing some interesting things. To lighten up valve train they'd pressed in new smaller inside diameter guides and gone with chevy valves that could be had with lots of different options from different suppliers (material and design wise), and the smaller stem design lightened the valve itself up considerably. HE also went with titanium retainers if I remember correctly. Anyways, just something to throw around in the back of your head.

I have the LM1 as well. It suits my needs at the moment and is handy to move from one car to another when helping others out with thier cars.

The feeler gauge trick is what I do when I set up a cam too. It saves having to have a bunch of extra lash pads laying around...

I too believe the that 700whp can be had with 30psi of boost on the L28. With an average build like mine, 26-27psi gave me approx. 525whp (according to 131mph traps in a 3000lb car). 30psi would put me around 575 or so. I've done some work to the head, but there is still plenty to be had in power there as well as some seious time on the dyno tuning my car. Then up the displacement with a stroker engine (instead of the 2.8L I have) and you'd be at that 700hp mark. Stock internals...I think not, but as shown with the bimmer engine...it lived a long time, didn't it? It would be an interesting build tho if you had one "just laying around"

Come out to Kansas and I'll run ya! Been working long hours and the poor car has just been sitting,Both the car and me need to get out and have a little fun! But back to topic, now, were you (Ivan) talking lobe center, or lobe seperation? There is a difference. With an adjustable timing gear, you can change the advance and retard of the cam, lobe seperation or spacing of the lobes them selves can't be adjusted....thats typically the adjustment you want them to make decrease overlap compared to a N/A motor the cam was probably developed for. Just wanting to make sure you were getting the right thing adjusted on your cam.

Mines had some work done to it, but nothing crazy. We just spent a little time on it while we were waiting for other parts and between other jobs. We offer 3 stages of porting and it will fall into the stage 2-2.5 range I think the intake was around 190 or so @.488 lift...can't really remember the exhaust side. There was still plent of work that could've been done but I just wanted to get the car back together...it had been down too long at that point and I just wanted to drive it again. Anyways, they should be able to do whatever you want...but there is a custom set up fee that is involved anytime they deviate from a programmed cam..Another $30-40 or something like that. Anyways, post back with your results from talking to them as I'm curious as to what they tell you.

I'm running a "Web Cam" cam in my car and I like it a lot. You can't really complain about it when you've got 525hp to the ground and the car is still pulling strong. 131mph traps in a 3000lb zx! I don't remember the exact specs but it was a variation of the 155 grind. They should have the specs on file if you're interested. It did require a new cam blank, not enough meat on a stocker to do a re-grind, and I've had no problems at all with thier "cwc" cam blanks. I believe we retarded the intake cam 3 or so degrees to spred out the lobe seperation. Like I said, talk to Lori, as she's the one I eventually talked to over there. Debbie is the one that usually answers the phone. You should be able to have them look up the specs on my cam... I've ordered 2 of them so far. One for my car, and one for a customer. Now, with that said, has your head ever been on a flow bench? If it has, get the numbers to them and at each incremental lift and they can help you select the right grind for your particular car. You may not need a cam with super big lift if your head can't support it! That .488 lift I'm running really seems to do the trick and the car loves high RPM. I run mine to 7800 before I slap it into the next gear. I'm sure you'd be happy with my grind, but thats entirely up to you.

Yeah, but you could pull into the race track hauling a 48ft bumper pull enclosed trailer with a Z...lol. That said, the car would likely be very unsafe to drive. Very nose heavy, poor brakes due to the increased weight and you'd need a lot of stuctural mods to keep the car together over time.

If you're running stock fuel injection, you need to keep it and hok it up. If you're not, either do the breather or catch can if you don't want to hook it up. The catch can is the better option of the 2