Bob_H

So I searched the old posts and don't see it - so please link if I missed a post. I love the Datsunworks twin cam project - here is a brand new casting for the L6, taking what I've seen as optimum combustion chamber design. Anyone have more info/thoughts? They apparently just opened it to "domestic" orders, i.e. in Japan. Just linking for now - not smart enough to know how to show an instagram photo or video. https://www.instagram.com/l6headproject/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CaXGgydJvGC/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CXjElwulaMZ/

I like what you did! what Vintage Connection kit did you end up using? I may need a similar one, replacing many, but not all the connectors. -Bobby

Interesting that the traffic has declined - I never would have guessed. Absolutely still Datsun involved. I still have the first car I ever bought - my 73 240z and I don't intend to sell it. It's in storage at my parents in a state of disassembly that some day I'll tackle again. The 72 that houses this setup is my other Z. I'll search around on the FB groups/etc.. maybe Instagram. Odd, didn't realize all the traffic shifted. I see mostly FS posts on FB, not so much trying to get info on how to do things. I always saw them as hand in hand, but you never know! I'd guess in the mid-teens will be my price to take this all off my hands. I still need to go through my documentation/old pics/etc.. and make sure I don't mis-represent the setup. -Bobby

Well, revive from the dead! Looks like most of the photobucket pics are back working again! Looking for some advice from the collective here. I'm still in the Navy, and this car has followed me from NC, up to Rhode Island, then back down here to Norfolk, VA where I'm currently stationed. I'm at a cross roads though - I may look to sell the full RB26 setup - front to back, intercooler, piping, RB25 trans, mounts, etc.. This includes the upgraded manifolds, GT Lemans turbos and downpipes. Not looking to sell the car. The question, if I did that, best place to advertise? Bring a Trailer was a thought, but this is a fairly narrow market regardless. This is an ~12k mile motor, completely gone through, upgraded the oil pump, did all the gaskets, etc.. Good RB26 engines alone are back up in the 5-7k range, (yes, ragged high mileage ones are cheaper). This is a plug and play for any 240-280z person, (maybe modify the trans mount depending on your trans mount style). What does it need? Clutch was stock, that may be something someone wants to do. Is setup for the stock MAFs. If you want the larger Z32 size ones, the intake tubes have to be modified or get the upgraded NISMO ones that are the same size. Injectors are stock, computer and wiring is stock. Driveshaft is custom regardless - I'll include whatever stock RB driveshaft I had so someone has a starting point. For me to get this running - I need to give it fuel, and start it. And I may do just that as part of showing it is ready for sale as a plug and play. That's likely it. My guess is the current setup is good for around 400 whp if properly tuned, maybe 450,(but injectors are likely limit at that point). Turbos are good for more and I always tried to set it up for breathing so limits were fuel and camshafts, not piping and airflow. If I kept it, what would I do? Clutch since the oem one in there is used, might as well get an upgraded/new one. Aftermarket tuning of some kind - so many choices, need to do some recent research. If I got really brave - new larger injectors and then the tomei PON cams. That should put this setup somewhere close to 500 whp and would be plenty for the car. Might consider a ATI damper as I have the stock one. That's it. Those who have read this very, very long thread, know all the detail that went into it - the oil pan alone was a custom beast. If I recall, it also has a jun oil pump. So I'm looking to the collective here: -Best place to advertise if I did decide to sell the combo -Best guess on reasonable price? I have my own idea, but I don't want to poison the pot with my own opinion. Let me dig up the specs from within this thread and update this post with the engine details and intercooler/etc.. Well, I'll have to go into my file back home,(down visiting family right now) to get the specs on what I put in the engine. What I recall: Intercooler is PWR, link to their stuff here: https://www.pwr.com.au/products/intercoolers/air-to-air-intercoolers I got calico(?) coated bearings to replace the stock ones when I pulled everything apart. Full Nissan gasket replacements - went through everything, head, block, etc... Brand new timing belt, water pump and parts. Jun (I think - I'll pull the papers), oil pump I think HKS manifolds and down pipes with the GT Lemans turbos,(OEM for the lemans effort with the RB26). All the custom tubing as you can see. I had them do the supports for the intercooler to bolt into stock holes,(either radiator supports or the one you can see across the top cross member). Engine originally came from a Stagea 260RS - the station wagon version of the GT-R, the engine is the R33 model, even though the year of the engine was when the R34 car had come out,(there was a delay in switching to the R34 in the wagon if I recall). Bottom line - very low mileage engine, I paid a premium when I bought it to ensure I didn't get a crap one. I bought it in 2002 and it had I believe 10-15 km on it, again, I'll find the documents and some pics showing how clean the inside was when I tore it down. All thoughts are welcome and I'll update this early this week when I get into my files back home. -Bobby

Yes, you can unscrew the part in the block and then use the OEM oil cooler/filter adapter. I have the exact setup on my Z and did just what I said, (remove the connection).

IG account doesn't appear to be there- only a callout post from zleds showing the Z tailights w/their led setup.

Thanks for pointing this out Tony- something I have been looking at- how to keep the period look w/new capabilities!

Pretty sure that is an old Porsche color like this one: Name of the color is Signal Orange. That pic of the 240Z is under very bright light - so keep that in mind when comparing to pics of older 911's. Not sure how long this FS link will have pics: http://car-from-uk.com/sale.php?id=47374 Or I just googled Signal Orange Porsche: https://www.google.com/search?q=1970+porsche+911+orange And selected images.

I think you don't need to go as wide as you are thinking. I would throw out the stock/OEM rim side of the equation because it assumes the stock rim was the largest you could fit under a stock fender which is not the case. You can fit a 7-8" wide rim under a stock fender on stock hubs. As such, I would stick with a 4" width increase. I have a 10 and 11" wide rims up front on my "Super Datsun" and it still has some room on the IMSA flares, (granted, not much). With just ZG flares, people are approaching 9-9.5" wide rims and the "wide ZG" flares accommodate out to 10 or slightly more with perfect offset. Here are some threads with those discussions: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/41406-4-sets-of-rs-watanabe-in-stock/?hl=%2Bwidest+%2Bunder+%2Bstock+%2Bfenders&do=findComment&comment=340575 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112168-what-size-aftermarket-rimstires-for-240z/page-2?hl=+widest%20+under%20+stock%20+fenders In short - the flare size you have in that pic would likely accommodate a 12" wide rim! Here was me asking similar questions way back when... This was me gathering the info on my FD suspension swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5922-what-is-your-track-width-front-and-rear-scottie-pete/?hl=%2Bwidest+%2Bunder+%2Bstock+%2Bfenders In it shows some good info for your purpose. In particular, look at what Pete Paraska fit under stock fenders and with what offsets - that shows about the max under a stock fender,(I think rolled), with coil-overs.

I wish I could remember the source - but it was a very credible one, that told me the Z32 suspension is actually one of the best ones out there - as far as geometry, etc.. I'll see if I can fish it up, Found it! The guys name is Jim and he worked for Roush for a number of years on their Trans-Am cars and IMSA cars - here was the post: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25165&postcount=46 And I asked him here,(his post was at the end of the thread - he didn't give me any more info as by the time I reached back out, I had decided on the FD suspension). http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=4809&highlight=z32+suspension+fd Jim doesn't roll out his credentials very often - but he was working on suspension design well over 30 years ago. That was the basis for my Z32 thoughts. In the end, where the upper arm mounted wasn't much of an option for me. You'll notice the Z33 is not a whole lot different beyond some aluminum parts. Sounds like you've got it worked out - I hope it works out great and you can finish before the season!

I'm curious since you have a FC rotary in there, did you look at or consider the 93-95 RX-7 front suspension setup? Same requirements, meets the same objectives and is a smaller package to an extent. I ask because already have a front and rear setup from a FD model RX-7 that I'll swap under my Z when I finish my current Z project. I've had that suspension for 10 years toting around with me on move to move! I'm going to be interested in how you tie that in up front. On edit - see it was a Turbo II. Corrected above. Also, some other questions/thoughts. And for the seating - if you plan to drive this more than just at the races, you are almost 100% going to have to figure out a different seat. That just isn't enough room once you put in a steering wheel. Even with a removable one, just looks iffy on space. I think you will find very quickly that won't be ok for a daily driver. I'd invest in a good HANS type setup and go from there. Second thought/question: the G35 steering column - I don't think that will matter at all. The front steer/rear steer is just rack location. You can easily tie your Z rack into that. You might find all that "extra" junk on the G35 column is a lot of dead weight and space its taking up. I'd say sell that and just adjust the Z rack to work. In my assessment/opinion, fitting the G35 column up in the car,(dash/etc..), will outweigh any fab work required to mate the Z column to the G35 rack.

Healthy motor for sure! Do you have any plans to run it on a chassis dyno once installed? I'm always interested in the losses from engine dyno to chassis. When I ran my old stroker back in '97, it made about 220-225 on the engine dyno, (still have the printout like yours somewhere). RWHP ended up being just over 180 if I recall, maybe 185 rwhp? Makes me wonder if you'd break 300 at the tires? I think there are some rebello stroker combos out there that did hit in the 290 rwhp range. The stroker I have now is 255 rwhp with the Sunbelt head. It was Dan Baldwin's old setup, so I'd have to fish through his posts to find the graph.

Ok, I see what you are doing now. Next question it raises - once you determine how much is enough or "good" for a orafice size, do you plan to utilze the oil feed from the block through the head like a stock L6 or will it always be a dry mating at the head/block as far as oil is concerned?

I had to look back through your old build thread - you have a very big sump area so not very suprising. To answer your #1 question, diamond is what I would do - nearly every good aftermarket pan I looked at had it setup that way. For the "why", my best thoughts as a long ago mechanical engineer would be that rarely are the forces purely side to side - they often have a component of accel or decel - so some of that fluid will move forward or aft as well as to the side. The diamond better handles that situation vs a square parallel to the sides of the sump. In pure fore/aft acceleration/decelaration - the square and diamond should perform the same. Your problem is in turns at the track - so you have slight accel with side loading - so the fluid/oil is trying to go to the side and back of the sump. (or if braking/slowing, to the side/front). That is my best guess - but that is not my area of expertise. As you observed, I just saw many competition pans built that way, so I used my logic above, and went with the diamond since I couldn't run calcuations either way. Second - I personally wouldn't worry about the drain at the back of the head - read back on post 14 for some more background info on why I would say that. That is Chiefrd who used to post here among other places and still builds very high end/high power RB motors,(and SRs, etc..) over in Japan.

Speaking of bellhousings - as I just moved everything up here from North Carolina - I have a RB to I think Muncie/Saginaw T10 bellhousing. I originally got it to adapt the G-Force G5R I had in my 240Z to the RB I wanted to put in. Ended up selling the G-5R and put the RB25 trans behind the RB26. These go for $650+ shipping from Australia - so cheaper than the above mentioned options, but not cheap! My model is BH 084. I'd have to fish through my paperwork from Castemaine Rod Shop when I ordered it all those years ago! If someone wants it, send me a message - I don't plan on using it. I won't let it go for super cheap, but you wouldn't pay full price. I believe the bolt pattern is the same for RB20, 25, 26.