Bob_H

So I've had several folks contact me from far away places,(i.e. looking at mailing it). After packing up and shipping some E46 M3 rims, I'm not as adverse to shipping the setup anymore, but maybe not the really heavy items such as the Cyl. head. I don't know... It seems the consensus is that it is indeed worth that much. The key is getting someone to buy it as it isn't exactly a normal setup. Another option,(not a good one in my mind), is to pick up a roller 260 or 280z shell and install the setup in that car. I would guess that with a running setup I could get $4 or $5k. I figure a decent roller is in the neighborhood of 2-3k with engine maybe less.... If I only had 3 weeks off! I think in the end, if I can't sell it before I leave, I'll plan on installing it. Then at least someone gets a driveable setup. My only problem is I'm still really trying to get the Super Datsun up and running, and this would take away from that. (see threads in body and paint for pictures). -Bob

I saw you did this dash twice - here and on the black car pictured in the post above. Was it just bondo/fiberglass to mold it to that shape, then covered? Or did you do something different? Any pics of that in-process? -Bob

As some of you may know if you browse the classifieds - I put my Turbo-Tom setup for sale. I won't go into super detail as that is in the ad here: http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=3109 I just want to make sure I'm pricing it correctly. When I first tried to sell it 2 years ago, I overpriced it by way too much,($3500 I think). I don't have to sell it, but I'd really rather not take it with me to Texas so I'm trying to price it appropriately. Someone should be able to put all these parts on a stock turbo block and produce some nice power. If they get serious about pumping up the boost beyond 15 or so PSI, they will need race gas and will need to actually put an EGT probe into the downpipe,(already plumbed for it), and watch the temps. I thought seriously about splitting up the parts, i.e. the HKS flywheel, the autolite distributor, the NOS, the oil pan, you get the idea. I'm sure I could make at least this much, if not more, but I don't want the hassle of tracking that many sales, etc... I tried to find the Tidewater Z car club online, but the site is not up and running -anyone have a contact up here? Bottom line - what would you pay, or more importantly, what would you ask if this were yours? I only ask that if you bring a lower price, please justify why it should be lower. -Bob

I wrote most of it along with another BMW guy. Its on my webpage - if you saw it elsewhere, they took it w/o permission. -Bob http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/streetracing.html

I missed this thread and posted in your other. I agree with Dave - as he and I had the same car,(mine was sliver and tracked extensively). -Diff - great mod, really shows what the S54 can do. However, with the 5 speed, (vs. the 6 speed in the M3), the raise in freeway rpm of approx 2-500 rpm can be a bigger issue, (depending on ratio - lots of threads about this). -Software - Sharking it appears to be the best for the S54 Z3Ms. I shark'd my 00's and was happy. Jim Conforti is the name to look for if you haven't heard of shark'ing before. JC's software I believe raises the rev limit to 7800, (M3 stock is just under 8000, he felt it wasn't needed). -Brakes - nothing short of phenomenal with pads and good fluid. With race rubber, your limiting factor will be front tire size,(usually 235mm max). As you rear subframe bushings get worn, (lots of hard driving will do that), they will allow the entire rear to pull around as you brake, (if you aren't in a straight line, it loads up one tire more than the other, it pulls harder, moves the subframe, which changes the loading and contact patch, etc..) this contributes to the rear end wiggle under braking. Once I changed my subframe bushings out, much more stable braking, (relatively speaking, it is a trialing arm setup). -Suspension - John's 10/10th's comment - true to an extent. The car will move around a lot on you, but it is forgiving - it is not like an older 911 as some might compare it to. You can't get away with murder like a E36 M3, but you can get away with a lot, and it rewards good driving like few other cars. As I said in the other post, if you get serious about suspension upgrades, let me know, I tried just about every possible combination on that car and depending on your goals, I can at least point you in the right direction. I for one don't agree with lowering the car for the reasons Dave stated. I went with taller springs/higher ride height adjustment and was very happy for a number of reasons. I replaced my subframe bushings,(before you could find ones for the Z3, I had to get an older E30 M3 set and adapt them). The KMAC bushings work fine, but are difficult to adjust w/o affecting other settings, (can fix toe, but will change other parameters - and a few, very few that is, have had issues with them moving after setting them).

Are you dry sumping yours, or just modifying it to a rear sump? Sorry, a little behind on the thread reading. -Bob

That link is dead. Anyone else have a source for this head gasket? Nevermind, link is not dead, just not current. http://www.raceeng.com is the main site. And here is the actual link as of today: http://www.raceeng.com/pc-1309-61-mls-gasketrb26-88mm051.aspx What about a full gasket set? I'm aware that MotoRex has them, but their online store is down and I can't find their prices,(I seem to remember them being really expensive). -Bob

While it wasn't clear in the first post, (intentionally), I do have one. I actually have a ton of R200 diffs: 3.15, 3.36, 3.54, 3.7, 3.9, 4.11, 4.57,(with lsd). The 3.9 is in the car currently. Not sure what one I am going to stick with,(I am putting in the RB26), I expect to keep it at 3.9 or 4.11 since that is close to the stock GT-R ratios. Anyone who is responding to a thread like this who wants to buy one is always careful about what price they put, because they are driving up their own cost and I recognize that. So I was trying to be obscure to get a best guesstimate. Bottom line, it appears to be worth around $1000 based on a lot of research,(with ranges from $800-$1500). I don't know that I'll sell it - I don't need the money. I hate to sell things that I could later use, (it would be nice to still have that Gleason-Torsen 3.9 R200). -Bob

Matt, A comprehensive thread would be great - just start a sepearate one from this thread so it is easy to search for. (Likely will remain a sticky to prevent repeat questions). -Bob

I'm gonna have to go with not quite.... 3.9's are everywhere, as are 3.54's. Good luck finding a 3.15 - they were only available through NISMO/Nissan as an aftermarket ring/pinion as I understand and they aren't available anymore. I've seen more than $200 for a good LSD R-200, with a common diff ratio. Now if your joking and are trying to move in - I see your joke and raise you one laugh. -Bob:razz:

What is the advantage of the JUN pump? I have a R33, and a HKS pump, so it is somewhat moot for me. It seems then that the main problem lies with the R32 motors,(cranks) - do the same issues rear their head with the later motors? Does sticking a large oil cooler in the system adversely affect the setup, i.e. too much demand on the system? I have an HKS oil cooler as well - but it seems way too big compared to what I am used to dealing with. Not sure wether to size down a little, or stick with what amounts to a very large oil cooler.. -Bob

I wasn't ever a member of TZCC - to my own loss. I was just too busy between Flying, Navy duties, and Rowing here locally. Shoot, I've only hit the road course twice in the last two years - not normal for me! I'm trying to go one more time before we head out of here in Nov. If you want pics, etc.., just ask - it really helps if you see it in person. And to anyone reading - the invite is open - just drop a line. -Bob

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Correct, long nose, open diff - although a limited slip is available for it. When you are dealing with a stiff suspension and wide tires like I have, open diffs aren't as much of a problem.

I am trying to figure out just what a R200 with a 3.15 ratio is actually worth. Rare as hen's teeth, etc.. I know - but nowhere do I see any value. I saw $2000 in one thread - but I highly doubt that a diff can be worth that much, (although I did sell a 3.9 R200 with a Gleason for $1300 8 years ago...). Can anyone point to a source showing what they are actually worth/what they would cost if I were to buy one? Or if you can't point to a source, what would you pay if you were looking? -Bob

John, Nice work on the car - I especially like the chopped roof. I see your out in Charlottesville - if you make it back towards Hampton Roads, drop me a line and come take a look at the Super Datsun, (I'm in Norfolk) - might give you some ideas on cages, remaining body work, etc.. I leave for Texas at the end of Oct - but should be here until then. -Bob

CCW's. yes' date=' 4 lug standard Datsun hub. You can order CCW's pretty much any way you want. Not cheap, but they look good and fit the bill. http://www.ccwheel.com/files/gallery.php?id=nissan#a They come in 17 and 18 inch sizes, in widths up to 17 inches! They are called the "Classic".

Nope. I scrounged all the paint chips in the books, etc.. looking for what I wanted. This was a late 90's Renault color. Some turquoise,(green), and yellow involved - more than say, the Honda Copper. As for this kit - I believe that the IMSA kit might have been slightly modified to fit his requirements. There really is no other kit on the market which has these kind of flares that haven't just recently come on the market,(i.e. recent as in last 5 years) - or more accurately, any largely produced kit. It is possible that these were a one-off, but I seriously doubt it as the front fenders are a full fiberglass setup. The front at a min. is a IMSA kit, but I'm inclined to believe that the rear could be a slighly modified version of the IMSA - i.e. more cut in after the flare in the back. Just my thoughts. Maybe someday I'll get it close to another. There was a guy from Richmond who would instruct with NASA and other groups with me and he had a 240z with the same flares. He had set it up as a GT-2 setup, and just used it for fun. Unfortunatly, at the last event I was at with him, a guy didn't brake properly behind him and slammed into the rear of his car, basically totaling the Z. The cage did its job and he was fine, but bummer on the car - such is the life when you take in on the track. He had been tracking it for a number of years and I guess it was just its time. Remember - there is a TON of body work involved in those flares since it was purple - and they are deceptive in how far out they go. They worked long and hard to smooth them out and make it seamless. They are honkin wide flares to say the least. I personally believe they are the same as your older car based on the pics I have seen. -Bob

Thanks guys - what a surprising response! Lets see: Headlight covers - I dont' think so at this time. I don't have any, and I don't know how it would change the current look. No plans at this time. I'll get it put together and go from there. RB26 plans? Stock initially - which is about 320-330 rwhp. I want to get it running, work out the bugs, fab some parts, then I'll worry about more power. I haven't been able to drive this car for three years - I don't want to prolong that even more because I wanted more power. I have a low mileage R33 in excellent condtion. After the car is all sorted, I expect to upgrade the power into the high 400 rwhp range, maybe more - I'm keeping it reasonable. 450+ rwhp is plenty in a 2500lb car. More than that and it gets very hard to drive on the track, (tracks, not drags). I still have some serious fab'ing ahead of me with the intercooler, piping, radiator/intercooler ducting, intake pipes, etc.. I'm disappointed, the ghost flames didn't quite show in the lower resolution shots. I guess that is the intent - it doesn't stick out and you have to look for them. If anyone is in Norfolk, VA before Nov 1st, shoot me an E-mail and you can come take a look. After that, we are moving down to Corpus Christi, TX - same applies there - just drop me a line if your around. -Bob I finally uploaded a clearer shot of the ghost flames. There is a story behind the flames - more on that later.

So I promised pictures of my 240Z once it was painted and in good sunlight,(and of course washed). For those questions sure to be asked: It is a 72 240Z with the older IMSA flare kit and G-nose. It had some significant detail work done to the flares to make the nice edges around the wheels,(instead of a sharp edge). You can see older threads, or my webpage below for pictures of the car when it was purple. I'll try to attach the pics, then post them. The name "Super Datsun" was coined by some friends when I first got it. It has stuck and is an easy way to differentiate between this and my 73 Z. The wheels are 17x10 front and 17x12 rear CCW's with 275 fronts and 335 rears. You can search for the offsets - it has coil-overs and they "just" fit. Those are the "street" tires and the race slicks are on 18x11 and 18x12 rims. You can see with no engine in the car, it does sit a inch or two higher than normal. And I didn't have time to properly crop the pictures, so please forgive the "extra" stuff in the background. Feel free to save this as a desktop - but if you want to post it on a website, please shoot me a PM or an e-mail asking - you can pretty much expect me to say yes. I just don't want it used for promotional purposes w/o me knowing. It is awaiting my RB26 so it can have some fun at the track. I'll answer what questions I can - lets just say its great to finally have it back. The guys who painted it are top notch. I have intentionally been very laid back about them finishing because it has worked out ok for me with my Navy deployments/commitments as well as all the house work. Their timing was actually spot on. Anyways, a few shots - and take a close look at the hood shot... You know, I just realized that these shots are all smaller in resolution to fit the attachment maximums. If you want a full 2mb pic, shoot me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it your way. Just say which one or if you want a particular angle. -Bob

Some of the updates which aren't on my website would be mainly about the block - it doesn't really matter if you use the N42 or F54 block. I have seen both blocks used with very good success. Personal choice there. As far as cylinder heads - the sky is the limit and choice largely doesn't matter once you define your goals,(which narrows the head selection). Since you said 400 lb-ft of torque, I assume you are talking about a turbo. I believe the last few paragraphs are now very outdated. There are people who have successful turbo strokers - with lots of power. And there are "stroker" grinds available from Sunbelt motors and a few others - but expect to pay a pretty penny as they require some special work, but have lower spring pressures, etc... And good P-90A's are hard to find anymore, and there is a wealth of info on this site alone about cylinder heads. Turbo - stick with the P-90. Normally aspirated- N42 or "maxima" N-47 or regular N-47 are all good depending on your goals and planned cylinder head work. If you are going turbo - I highly, highly suggest sticking with a plain 2.8L and spending your money and time on the turbo, intercooler, engine management, exhaust, etc.. The money spent there will far outweigh any return on your stroker until you get into the serious hp numbers. -Bob PS- check out my link page - there are a lot of good sites still linked - even if I need to update them.