Bob_H

I'll just say i'm with dan. i love you man. Dan, you'll go nuts when you realize what i am really doing to my z, but I won't tell till Jan/Feb. There is a good chance I will write a series of articles in SportsZ about it. I did have a blast on the track with the stroker at Summit Point and Beaver Run. The Drift king. That little bugger was all over the place, esp. at summit. fun stuff. the RB26 should be here in a few weeks. goes to the cage shop next monday. i second what rick said, too much money for my own sense. eric. while you are on the right track with respect to compression ratio, your idea on how to get it will lose you more power than it is worth. the more stroke you keep, the more torque you will produce, which is directly related to how much you are pushed back in the seat. taken to an extreme, look at what jeffp has with his stroker. he is running in the 8's for CR. What I would suggest is around 8.0:1 CR with a high quality intercooler and good fuel management. you will be much much happier with that setup than a destroked 2.8L,(i.e. 2.4L crank), with some piston combo to run 7.0:1 compression. The engine will be a dog off boost,(that is related to the low CR), and will not produce as much power as an equally setup 2.8L motor. Enjoy. -Bob

while the seller does have a bunch of good feedback, they also have several negatives. and almost none are responded to. just be aware. -bob

stony, you have mail. the pic is there. -bob

you don't happen to have the link for that? I ask to see if there are other pictures. -Bob

stony, when you are talking about burning up #6, aren't you refering to the RB26 motor? I haven't heard of that problem with the RB20 that he was asking about. -Bob

I ask because I have to make the decision btw the 3.9 and the 4.11. Now for the rest of you folks, I'm not interested in hearing about what ratio for a turbo - save it for another post. Take a look at a tranny chart with a 7500 or 8000 rpm redline and you will better understand why I want one of those two, (in a road racing car btw). In addition, the R-33 RB25 tranny I have originally came with a 4.11. Just curious as to what you settled on. And if you did it different, what would you do. -Bob no hijacking my thread!

Well, my turn. HybridZ name: Bob H Name: Bob Hanvey Location: Norfolk VA,(Navy) Car and color:73 240Z, Green (formerly the Datsun Workshop 3.1L car) Engine: R-33 RB26dett Pulled from a 2000 Stager 260RS No pictures. Possibly a Sports Z article, and a "secret" suspension. I'll tell more when it is done, so don't ask and don't tell if you do know. Expected timeline: Febuary 2003 finished. Others known: Brad, Jason, Matt and me. We have a mailing list together for those actually doing the swap. E-mail me if you want on. You must be ACTUALLY DOING IT to be on,(engine either in possesion or in transit). No lurkers just looking for info. That is what this board is for. -Bob

David, Care to enlighten us as to why you want to run an E-88 with a turbo? Just sounds like you are asking for problems. If you don't want the P-90, I say go with the N-42. Your compression will still be rather high, but closer to what you want. How about telling us what CR you are shooting for. -Bob

I would give a serious look at Perfect Power. They are a South African Company that is expanding into the US. I very seriously considered their PRS-8 system till I found out I could only drive 5 coils,(that may have recently changed). I needed to drive 6. I could drive 3 wasted spark, but that meant giving up the stock 6 coil setup on the RB26. The price is $895,(or 8 something). Their software has a good interface and their tech support is quick. I e-mailed several hard questions to them about my setup and they were prompt in their response every time. Haltech on the otherhand didn't respond at all. Food for thought. Haltech as I recall is in Austraila and can be tough to get ahold of personally for tech support. The website for the PRS systems is Perfect Power And the PRS-8 I was considering is: The PRS systems Ken Jones is using them for his FI conversion on his 3.1. He recently wrote a series of articles in SportsZ about his 3.1 buildup and tuning. I also like the interface and features of the Link EMS. It is about $500 more expensive for what I needed,($1295 for the full feature one, $895 for the base feature one). However I liked the interface better. You may be able to get away with the lower system as you don't need to drive as many functions as I do. Here is a link to my post asking about it. It has the link to the site: Hybridz post -Bob

I have seen his solution and that is way above what I want to do. I am interested in simpler fabrications, if any fabrication at all. I will also be putting the battery back in that area. I am not worried about Unless someone knows of a solution that keeps the original filler neck location, I am heavily leaning towards the GM style behind the licence plate setup. I am sure I can pick up a cheap setup from a salvage yard. Any thoughts on who to go to for a fuel cell? This will be used for road racing,(so no drag racing setup), and with Fuel injection. Thanks, Bob

Ok, did a rather exhaustive search of the archives and turned up nothing. I need to upgrade either my fuel tank or put in a fuel cell. However, I am unwilling to deal with filling the tank by opening the rear hatch. So what I am soliciting is current solutions to filling a fuel cell,(my prefered solution), from the outside. Obviously the original side filler would be perfect, but I am willing to adapt the older GM style behind the licence plate. Any pics of how-to's are appreicated. -Bob

Shane, Question on the O2 readings...Were the dyno readings taken from a wideband O2 near the turbo or at a collecter at the tailpipe? If at the tailpipe, that could be contributing to a different reading. I will readily admit I don't know how it affects it, but in my research for my RB26 aftermarket stuff it has come up several times. I think John C has discussed it as well. It has to do with mixing down the pipe, and while I am pulling from air here,(pun intended) I think I remember something about the exhaust cooling changing the reading as well. -Bob

I just thought of some more issues. look at the mph change in each gear,(assuming a 6000 rpm shift): T-5 box: 1-31mph 2-20mph 3-29mph 4-30mph Now the ZX box: 1-35mph 2-24mph 3-25mph 4-26mph

Ok, while I admit I suck at spelling, I gotta say, fix the spelling in your sig. I only bring it up because what we are addressing is somewhat a result of your "beter ratios" transmission. I won't even go into what I think of sigs. I piss enough people off about heads! First, the 81-83 zx 5 speed, while in some peoples opinion offering better ratios, is a much weaker design. The countershaft bearings are small for higher power outputs. The small contact area on the gears themselves lend to pushing the oil out from between the teeth under high loads,(not a good thing). And I really can't stand how it shifts,(that obviously being a personal opinion). I have hard so may people say how they don't like the T-5 shifting. I'll tell you what, I have a 2000 BMW M coupe that shifts better than most cars. And I love the T-5 I recently swapped in. Much more precise, and I have a good stock shifter. The internals of the shifter mechanisim break down,(there are plastic parts), and you lose some of the precision of the original shifter. Mine is still in good shape. A quick easy fix is the B&M ripper shifter or the Hurst, which is the same as all Mustang and Camaro's through the 80's. But I digress. Using a 6000 rpm shift point, here are some approximations of mph and rpm drops btw the zx and T-5 tranny. All of these assume a 3.9 ratio rear end. BTW, I referenced this page for the info: transmission calculator page So, in one corner, weighing in at slightly less than the T-5, we have the weakling 81-83 zx box: 1-2 = 31mph, drops to ~3600 rpm 2-3 = 51mph, drops to ~3850 rpm 3-4 = 80mph, drops to ~4350 rpm 4-5 = 110mph, drops to ~4710 rpm And in the other corner, weighing in just slightly more than the ZX box, the T-5..... 1-2 = 35mph, drops to ~3573 rpm 2-3 = 59mph, drops to ~4240 rpm 3-4 = 84mph, drops to ~4614 rpm 4-5 = 110mph, drops to ~4475 rpm Many people go with and suggest the 3.36, 3.54 or 3.7 vs the 3.9 and 4.11 in a turbo motor'd car. In a non-turbo car, absolutely, stick with the lower ratio,(higher number). But lets look at the real stuff. Both boxes top out at the same speed in 4th with their 1.0:1 ratio in 4th. Which for 6000 rpm is 110 mph. 110 mph will get you into the 12's with a good launch. Otherwise, low 13's. A better choice is to swap your rear end for the 3.54. Now your theoretical top speed in 4th is higher, and better for the turbo,(more gear to pull against). -Bob

Zach, Some food for thought on the cost of the swap. You said: I want to pass on some things I learned while researching for my swap,(motor is in shipping right now). First, if you buy a half cut, you are not guarenteed,(but spelled properly) it will have everything. By everything I mean airflow meters, starter, clutch etc.. Second, it will come with the GT-R AWD transmission. That means you must now source a GS-T tranny. Ok, now you need a clutch as well, etc.. I realize you already know this, but you get the idea? Brad and I bought from a guy named Bernard Plett. He provides a package deal. For $6800 you get everything you should need to perform the swap, the oil pan, mounts, etc... And anything else you may need down the line he will support you at cost. Meaning if you need a NISSMO oil pump, or a 3 disc clutch, he will buy it and sell it to you at his cost plus shipping. The only caviot is it must be for the project. And if you are missing something,(which you shouldn't, but it can happen) like say a starter, he will get that to you no cost,(Brad's motor was missing it). When I started adding up what I was going to need, it always came really close or over that figure. Sure I could find it cheaper, but in the end I would end up spending more. And the support at cost for later items was also a big swaying factor for me. And he was a pleasure to deal with. Just wanted to give you a heads up. My motor was recently pulled from a 2000 model Stager 260RS. Think of it as a wagon version of the GT-R. It had about 10k miles,(~16k kilometers if I remember). I think Brads had ~12k miles. Most of Bernard's motors had between 40-60k miles. He has 5 R-32's in stock, and I think one or two R-33's all in Reno Nevada. I highly recommend him. His e-mail is: dfbuq103@kcc.zaq.ne.jp And his name is Bernard Plett. Tell him Bob Hanvey sent you. -Bob (paid the money, now time to install....)

Franklin, The grey Z does not have ZG flares. It has the IMSA style flares and they have been either riveted, glued or bolted on, rather than fiberglassed in. -Bob

Actually, he has posted today,(might be yesterday for him). And I know we are a few months from doing anything to Saddam. Feb-May timeframe something WILL happen. We'll just say its educated speculation. And don't ask me any more about that. So you found them on a e-bay search? Can you tell me what you put for the search terms? I just did a tailight search and came up dry for skyline or otherwise. I assume it is a 70's style... -Bob

bump. I'm guessing you missed this? Any word on the year? -Bob

Ok, in some of your earlier pictures, you had a set of skyline lights for the rear lights. What year were they from and how easy would they be to put on? I ask because I have a good source to find them in Japan,(unless you have some!). Since I am putting the RB motor in my car, I thought it would be appropriate, plus they look good. I appreaciate any info. You can e-mail me if you don't want to post it. -Bob Hanvey

Well, here is the picture, and your quote that you wish you could find them again. Do you know what year they came from? Any info is appreciated. Ok, can't link the image or the page. It is on his first set of pics, a rear shot. -Bob

Hmm, So noone has any experience or knows someone with a Link setup? I really like their interface and what it offers. The perfect power ems,(the PRS-8) I was considering is now pretty much out of the picture. It can only drive 5 individual coils. To drive more cylinders, it must go to wasted spark. I'm not giving up the individual coils to go to three coil packs. Besides, it would look funny on the RB motor! Bummer. -Bob

I just wanted to see these two threads next to each other.... -Bob yes, we have successfully beat this dead horse

Here is the website, that might help. If you are considering EMS's, download their software. Pretty good stuff. -Bob Link USA website

I was checking out more systems. The PRS-8 I was looking at before may be inadequate as it can't drive more than 5 coils, so it pretty much eliminates it for the RB motor. The Link is a system commonly used on the Miata Turbo's. The price is very resonable and the inteface is great. Looking to see if anyone has experience with them? -Bob

Jamie, You have two weeks before my motor comes out. If you are interested in seeing it on action at the track, I will be at Summit Point,(about two hours from you, maybe less), next weekend, nov 2-3. That weekend Jim who just bought my entire setup will be there Sunday to take a ride/drive and generally have fun. You are welcome to come out on Saturday and take some rides. E-mail me off line if you are interested. -Bob