Booztd 3

Thanks The first distributor I called didn't list any Nissan part #'s so this will be handy

Do you have a part number for the nissan motors? I called one of the US distributors and they didnt list any nissan parts....

Dyno-video now up from the 597rwhp run http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/597rwhp.wmv

Probably not much higher than 8k. I noticed on the dyno last night when I was running the car that once the engine picked up in revs/power the oil pressure was dropping at a high rate of speed. I am unsure if its the sensor thats acting funny, or if its actually correct. I know the nautre of the rb26 is to pool alot of oil in the head. I have done the tomei restrictor in the head, but that is the only mod I have done so far.....

I went with the journal bearing for cost savings

The increase would have been much greater if I had given the car more timing, which is one of the huge differences of race gas.... For the others, I am running a GT42-74mm

Guys I got a chance to get on the dyno last night. Power numbers were about right what I was estimating, I am happy and the car feels strong. The following chart was a pull done on 93 octane gas, and 18psi A/F was a solid 11.5 all the way across to redline (after i fixed the rich dip @ 5700) After doing this pull, we let the car cool for about 30 mins, and ran again, it made ~560rwhp. I then drained the gas out and we put 5 gallons of 112 Torco in. I made a few passes and checked the fuel and adjusted accordingly. The following chart was done on 112 Torco and 20psi. I could have probably made a decent amount more power at the same boost level by throwing some more timing at the setup, however after we got the fuel curve moderatly straightened out, it was already past midnight and I still had to get the car off the dyno, fuel up, food, a hour and a half drive home, and work at 7AM! I am planning on heading back in the next few weeks to see if we can try and coax 650-700 out of it. Cant wait!

Bob I've got a set, make me a 'reasonable' offer, they arent doing me any good sitting around

ALOT A buddy with a TH400 setup in a Z dropped his 60ft times over 2 tenths (and he was already doing 1.5 60 foots) and he's not falling out of boost near as bad as the 5spd was..... I'd say I could gain a second at least just by going to the th400

I dont see how cutting the fuel at the pump would be effective at all considering there's still 8+feet of line filled with gas. I know my car could run for seconds after I killed the power to the pump....

Thanks for the compliments, and J-, i responded to you Regarding the 2-step, I'd review the documentation for the wolf system and read how each of the different types of 2-steps work, and decide which one is best for you. I believe mine is setup with an ignition cut and then a fuel cut, because it allows the unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust manifold, and then it gets ignited.........causing explosions definitely gets that turbo spooled Tuning is fun, just be careful with it. I started doing all the tuning on my Z when I was 20 and was using a piggy back. Moving forward 3 years I've now graduated to the standalone stuff and look forward to dealing with other EMS's as well

I cannot speak for other EMS's (however I can assume) but the AEM you can program it to go off of any input switch, or you can do it really easily by enabling it going off of the VSS readings. Mine is setup currently so that the 2-step is only engaged when the vehicle is traveling less than 4mph. Anything over that, and the 2-step wont work. Alternatively, if you want to use the anti-lag/no-lift-shift feature as well, you're going to have to configure the EMS to use the clutch switch (which on most cars is a pull to ground type setup) to input ground into the AEM. You would then set the 2-step to be triggered off the clutch switch, not the VSS.

Well I got my ECU back from AEM at about 3:30PM on friday, fouled my plugs, and drained my batter by about 4PM. I finally figured out that AEM had completely wiped my ECU, and after frantic searching, could not find my backup calibrations I had the car running off the base-map and the modifications needed for 1000cc injectors by around 4:30 or so, and driving shortly after. I went out and threw on what I 'figured' to be a safe tune going off of memory from when I was last on the dyno, and it seemed like it was making decent power and the logs were showing decent figures. I ended up getting lucky when I got to the drag strip and I actually found the damn calibration file! I turned the boost up to 16-17psi and made some passes. The track prep was ♥♥♥♥ because it was 'street-car' night, however I was happy with my trap speed. I also hadnt played with the 2-step at all so it was taking some getting used to that...... I could only muster a handful of 12.0's because the car was simply not getting out of the hole, however I had the MPH for low 11's. The best of the night was 124..... Here are some vids http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Midnight_Mayhemt_In_Car_01.wmv http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Midnight_Mayhem_6_29_2007_03.MPG http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Midnight_Mayhem_6_29_2007_05.MPG http://www.booztd3.com/Videos/Midnight_Mayhem_6_29_2007_08.MPG I ended up winning a trophy and 150 bucks for being the import with the fastest trap speed, and the biggest award of all was that I was able to drive the car the 90 miles home w/out any issues all while getting 30+mpg!!! LaterZ

I drag race this car frequently, lowering it would be like suicide.....stock suspension is great for the drag strip

PM'd

Guys I bought a bunch of these when they were on backorder and i dont believe there are anymore left. I really need the cash instead of having this stuff setting around, so if anyone is interested let me know before I just send them back...... I have 4 OEM RB26DETT Gasket Rebuild Kits I also have 5 OEM RB25 Oil Pans - No picture

No weight figures yet, still working on that

I mainly wanted it there for a showoff factor Plus I shortened the RB wiring harness considerably, in order to do this, so i'd have to re-lenthen the harness to do it all over again! I do not drive the car in extreme heat, nor in rain, so I havent had any issues yet, plus AEM is really good about warranting their stuff

My 1990 RB26 powered Nissan 300ZX Modification List Drivetrain RB26DETT RB25 Modified Oil Pan Z32 Transmission Mated w/RB Trans Modified Cross Member Custom Motor Mounts Full-Race Twin-Scroll Manifold (2) Tial 44mm Wastegates Tial 50mm BOV Greddy Cam Gears ARP Head Studs Tomei Type-A Poncams Greddy T-Belt Tomei 5 Layer Gasket Kit Garret GT4202-74mm JGY Fuel Rail (Dual -8 Feed Setup, Single -6 Return) TMS 1000CC Injectors AeroMotive FPR (2) Walbro 255 GSS-342 Fuel Pumps Earls Fittings/Braided Lines For Fuel Earls Fittings/Braided Lines For Oil OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch RB25 Slave Cylinder Clutch Pivot Ball & Clutch Line Z1 1piece Steel Driveshaft Richmond 4.10 Ring & Pinion Set XS Engineering 4" FMIC Custom Aluminum IC Piping 4" Downpipe & Test Pipe Fab Greddy SP Dual Exhaust for 300ZX (2) 10" Permacool HD Electric Fans Custom Double-Pass Radiator 245/45/17 Khumos in front 275/40/17 MT ET Street Radials in rear Not Installed N1 Water Pump N1 Oil Pump Crank Collar Pauter Rods CP Pistons ACL Race Bearings Suspension Powertrix HICAS Eliminator Bar Powertrix Adj. Tension Rods Electronics AEM 1621 RB26DETT EMS AEM 3.5 Bar Map Sensor, Coolant Sensor, IAT Sensor AEM UEGO Defi Link 2 Defi BF Boost Guage Relocated Battery to Rear - Optima Red Top Alpine CDA-9857 Alpine Speakers Safety Full 8pt Roll Cage - Certified to 8.50's Swing-Out Bars RCI Platinum 5pt Harnesses RJS Window Net Flaming River Battery Kill Switch Interior Complete Maroon Red to Charcoal Black interior swap Removed Tweed Inserts, Custom Vinyl application Sparco Speed Seats w/custom sliders Sparco Extreme2 Steering Wheel Nismo Shift Knob (the rare one!) Cosmetic 1999 Fairlady Z JDM Bumper w/smoked turn signals 1999 Fairlady Z JDM Tail Lights Stillen Type 3 Sideskirts & Door Fillers 5-Zigen FN01R-C Paint matched Brake Caliper to wheel colors Powertrix Carbon Fiber Air Guides (under hood) The car is currently making 485rwhp@14psi and I plan on going back to the dyno to give it a little more boost before rebuilding the motor. I would like ot achieve 600rwhp this season and get a few 10 second passes in. Once I regain my social life this summer/fall and get to enjoy my car for several months, it wil be going back under the knife this winter so I can add all the forged goodies and paint the engine bay. I will probably sell the N1 oil pump in favor of a better oil pump (JUN, Tomei, etc) and I'll also need to pick up an ATI Pulley. Laterz

If its going to start shipping with the boxes soon, are the guys that have already purchased the boxes eligible for them? Only would seem fair

I have used, and will continue to use the Greddy Profec S. Its very similar to the Profec B, just newer and utilizes a smaller solenoid. I have used the Profec B spec 2 and I think its a huge POS, and probably why greddy switched back to the old design on the newer Profec S

4L80E is big and heavy, lots of power loss compared to a th400 setup....plus I dont drive the car often at all, so not much need for an OD setup..... Also, I've stated this a few times but I've never tuned on the AEM and its basemap is pretty shitty, so I eliminated the big variable of the engine being good/bad and just put it in there stock. I knew the motor ran good before as it sat, whereas if I put it together with all the forged parts and it wouldnt start, or something like that.......It would have been more of a PITA. Also I didnt want to get into crappy tuning ruining my new engine. Cylinder wall wash and all that jazz, especially with 1000cc injectors could potentially hurt it. Now that I have it tuned well and running good, it theoretically should run exactly the same once I yank the motor out and re-install it. If it doesnt, well then I know right where the problem lies

I know, thats what I keep telling people, I cant wait! By the way your car is purely badass, I still have the vid of it on the strip saved to my desktop for aspiration I will be going to a th400 sometime soon

The EMS is quite complicated, but I dont think its terrible to use.. Its got alot of handy features and items that simplify the tuning process.