G.I.jonas

Click on pic if you havnt seen this thing,wow!!! thats some work.This car is like everything i love and more I feel so insignificant now.

Yea its definately not a bolt on as you might say,but if the rear hatch area was manipulated right i think it could work,but certainly not a reasonable plan.(sounds like something i would do!!)Hmmm.

Someone should try to replicate this on a z,just stop down at your local ferrari dealer and ask for a couple of enzo tail lights.

FORD GT...oh yea.Hate fords but oh man when they actually try.

Wow that is some retarded sh%$!!

Someone definately needs to put one of those engines in a z,two thumbs up for sure

Wow thats weird,small word lol.So i was never able to get back to olav.Did he change his e-mail? it doesnt work for me anymore,i always wanted to check in and see how the bars worked out for him,also i think we had some other reason to keep up but i cant remember now.I have used your cars pics in my sales ads ever since and think you car is uber sweet.

I totaly agree,however my z wont be like it was in 78.More power(more than twice) and some extra weight in the front makes me think it might not be a bad idea but i will probably stick with the manual steering its just a possibility thats all.

No the steering will be easy,basically the only obstruction is my mounts themselves.What i plan to do is mount a pillow style bearing right to the top of my existing engine mount and incorperate a couple of u joints or possibly some small scale cv's and its done,However i may not complete the steering rack end of the shaft right away as i am considering a z32 power rack since the engine already has a pump.Then again it would be easy to make a diff shaft anytime from the bearing to rack.

This is a sweet example here.Some guy named olav skaareland from norway who bought a set of my strut tower bars and sent me back some pics,hmmm a few dollars maybe.

ROFL!! that stove is awesome.And nice engine by the way,sweet color i never would have thought to use that one,looks nice with black and the green on the cover itself is nice.

I have thought of the home powdercoating deal but cant justify futher clutering my shop with a stove.I will be putting in a body work area and spray booth maybe this year so maybe then i will have the room.And yes we do need pics of that setup,oil pan stove door? now thats resourceful.

I dont know of any one nearby that does it,i will look around.Alos need to find a professional powdercoater.

Nice stuff,looks similar to what mikelly was making,or did you make the stuff yourself? I wish i had a local zinc plater.

I assume he just re drilled higher and farther out (improves roll center geometry).And my arms are +-1/4" shorter than stock fully collapsed.

Here are some pics installed on my project,sorry i am not a photographer,my light source is a droplight and my camera is gay but here they are anyway.

LOL!! nothing about 700hp in a 260 makes me feel comfortable.However i dont think hp really translates into more trouble for the control arms,granted you may be heavier than stock but extra weight goes to the springs not the lca.After all i will have a set of these on my own car with a vg30dett at around 450 hp,and vg30dett is not a lightweight either.The only place i see a possibility for troubles is in a car which sees a lot of track time although i personally have faith here as well.I believe it is part of a racers resonsibility to maintain his or her car very strickly also so even this really should not become a problem as long as everything is kept tight and regularly checked over for fatigue,something i personally would do regardless of the setup i was using.

Sorry i havnt had time lately to work on my car the steering issue will have to wait a bit,dont worry i plan to update when i get it done.I have done this kind of thing a few times and i know for sure that it wont be a problem.

I will install one of these tonight and post some pics of the part on my project car,and anyone who wants to "guinipig" please pm me,i would like to get a set out to someone at discount for a little stress test.

I thought about milling flat areas on the bar but i didnt want to weaken the pipe any.Strap wrench sounds good.

Yea actually i put them on my car (which isnt working) and i could simply turn by hand easily and watch the tire move out,pretty slick.I guess if they get old and a little corroded you would just have to take a pipe wrench to them,would scratch the finish but thats easy to touch up,this is why i like never seize!

Well i promised that i would make some improvements to my control arm design and post pics when done.I tried to fit in everybodys suggestions regarding my last design and these arms are definately far superior to my others.Before my threaded section did not continue into the main plate,so i lengthened the plate to allow 1" of the threaded rod to protrude into the structure.On top of this the plate itself is larger all around,a little wider and a little longer.I also like the suggestion of reinforcing the the main mounting plate section itself for bending strength,so i have 1/2" flat bar welded all the way around the perimeter of the plate and ground smooth on the top.The arms will allow about 1/2" to 5/8" of length/camber adjustment over stock while maintaining equal thread ratio both exposed and inside the adjuster tube.For those who didnt read my last thread before it was removed i will point out demensions again.The main plate and gussets are 1/4" plate steel,the threaded rod and heim joints are 3/4"x16 thread,the adjuster tube is 1 3/8" od x 3/16" wall thickness and have precision threaded bungs welded in the ends.The entire part is carefully tig welded throughout.I would say overall these arms might be just slightly heavier than stock but i havnt yet weighed them so i cant say for sure.Oh yea and as you can see i painted these ones spiffy red for good photo contrast.

Yea cutmasters own,ive had two of the same plasma cutter,the 38 model.I havnt had two because one broke but rather was stolen.They are truely excellent machines and worth every penny.

OMFG!!!!!! $2000 a fender,you can get nearly identicle fg flares that can be blended into the car for like $350(for all 4).Or order a vr engineering widebody kit thats like $1200.Man this guy is way to proud of his stuff,or just an outright ripoff,although i cant imagine hes ripping off too many people....WOW!!! Can you say freakin BS????? P.S. whats his #,i think i would like to call and see what the hell is up with that,and maybe slur them a bit

You really will be fine.Dont put your jackstands under the front and rear bumpers is all.These cars really hold there form quite well even with missing supports and panels and whatnot.Not to mention that by the looks of your pics there isnt much rust elsewhere weakening the structure,but as said by alex you can easily keep an eye on any movement,even if it does move it will probably spring back when released anyway.