Daeron

the TPS either sends its signal or it doesnt; there is no "just enough" to do anything. if it contacts the right points at the right time, then the switch itself is (like you said) probably not the problem.. but the problem is still very reminiscent of a TPS issue, which would indicate a need to check the wiring associated with that circuit. if you have to, make one long lead for your multimeter, and check the continuity between sensor end and ECU end with an audible alarm, and proceed to flew every inch of that wire until you hear a break in continuity. This checks for intermittent connection where it should be. If THAT fails, then try a similar check, except mix up the terminals that you are checking (hit terminal A on sensor side, terminal B on ECU side and again, flex the wire, only this time, listen for a beep of continuity, indicating an intermittent short across that circuit. Since you cleared up a major portion of the problem, it means that whatever is left is going to be intermittent, and difficult to track down. I call it "magic wire" syndrome; you basically have a gremlin somewhere chewing on something and need to find that beast and exorcise him. In the end, the best way to proceed is in the precise order laid out in the EFI bible.. but dont forget that most of those tests are supposed to be run both AT the sensor, and at the ECU plug for the sensor, to confirm the integrity of the wiring harness.

Tim, in that thread you linked to you mentioned that these pistons were "a pretty good match" to this head's combustion chamber: The context of the conversation was quench, and you said that despite the lack of squish (relatively stock CC's) they were a good match. At the time when I first read it, I hadn't noticed... but is the dish in those pistons regular and even in depth, or is it biased to one side to form a more evenly disc- or pancake-shaped combustion chamber? It is difficult to tell from the pictures, but I suspect not, and if so.. then... well, I wonder

man, I wish I had read this thread two weeks ago. the throttle position switch only has three states.. "idle," "cruise," and "WOT." When the computer isn't getting a signal from the TPS, it presumes "cruise" mode. "Idle" is less fuel, and "WOT" is more fuel. It is MUCH simpler than the potentiometer-style throttle position sensors used one more modern systems. I had the exact same, high-throttle cut-out anytime my engine bay got wet, because the boot on the TPS plug was bad and it shorted the entire affair out. It took me several recurrences of this problem before I definitely isolated the issue; since then, any time it recurred it was only a two-minute fix. The cover for the switch should be removable with some work; its a very elementary device and it may be that any defect would be apparent and repairable. Or you could just source a new or JY unit. Have you tested the function of your TPS as described in the EFI bible? If the switch is verified good, then the remaining issue is almost certainly in the wiring associated with the TPS. To check this, you could start the car and let it idle, and "massage" the length of the sub-harness, listening for hiccups or increases in RPM. Theoretically, you could even use a jumper wire to simulate "wot" and do the same thing, (AGAIN, listening for changes while "massaging") but I do not know how well the vehicle would handle a "wot" TPS signal when the throttle wasnt actually open past idle... Good luck. The hardest part is recognizing how truly simple this system is, and not reading more complexity into it than there is.

I agree. Yes, 1_fast_Z did it. look up "l31dett" and you should find it. I would think it probably wiser to base the intake ports off of another pattern already commercially available.. say, maybe a BMW or Toyota or an RB pattern.. so that we would already have a commercially available base of intake parts to work with. The non crossflow stock head means that the intake runners are not evenly spaced, which is less than ideal. If we could find an engine like, say a mercedes benz, that would have both fuel injection and weber/solex intake manifolds for it, then so much the better. Its all bench racing, though, unless one or two people pick up a lead role and run with it. I for one, love talking about this sort of thing, but can't do much to make anything happen. Anyone want to volunteer for quarterback?

I just checked victoria british and motorsport auto to be sure. (Vic Brit's website wouldn't display that page of the catalog, or I would have made an image to lay this to rest permanently.) This all applies SOLELY to 2-seaters; to the best of my knowledge the 2+2 was the same but DO NOT quote me on that. The 77&78 doors were wholly different from every other S30 door; hence, the entire window was also different. The 260 and 280 (thru 76) windows were all the same; the 240 windows apparently were different, and I do not think you can swap parts, altho the doors themselves can be exchanged. So, the short version on the window hardware is, "240 type," "260-early 280 type," and "late 280 type." I want to say that the glass from a 240 may well work on any of the early style doors... it *might* require re-mounting the glass into a "later" piece of metal to put a 240 glass into a 75 280 window regulator, but I think I have heard tell of this before.

A thing of beauty is a joy, forever. That is a well dressed little engine, there. The 1600 is no drag racer, but it is at least as fun to drive as a stock miata. One might say its just about a ton of fun..... plus it feels like youre driving an antique down the road, about ten times more than it does in a 70 240Z. Gary, do you have any good interior pics to illustrate my point about the antique feel? Not to mention the fact that it is just like any other internal combustion engine.. if you put solexes on it, high compression pistons, the right camshaft and valvetrain.. suddenly you're dealing with some serious horses. I don't want to quote butt-dyno numbers, but the car CAN be quite potent.

Hopefully. Because, seriously, it really is a very special kind of pain-in-the-ass feeling when you break those rear wheels loose at 85 miles an hour, AGAIN. I really hate having too much power to maintain traction entering fourth gear; it TOTALLY kills the experience of driving for me.

ftw:D

I was planning on sacrificing an old oil pan sump to do the same thing with my 280Z tank.. I even considered setting up my second FUEL warning light* on my 75 280Z to function SOLELY on the sump, heh... Looks great! Nice to know it shouldn't cost too much to get the intermediate steps that I can't do myself (the welding etc) taken care of. Minor threadjack, does anyone know what kind of metal is the tank made of (steel I presume) and, are the oilpans the same type of metal, or am I boned on that idea? *I have no idea why I have two fuel warning lights; neither worked during the entire time I DD'd the car.. one is at the top of the center control area above all the HVAC controls, and one is down in the center console just below the stereo

pistons are NOT the place to scrimp. I know ALL about the zero budget build.. but live on one meal a day for a month for your pistons. JY every other part if you want.. but new pistons, specifically designed to your application, will probably make more difference than any other single (times six) part other than the camshaft.

ye GODS, what a pipe dream.....

my vote for CareBear's title is Palmela Handerson I suppose 2thumbs might work too, but thats beyond obscene Since I am making another post in this thread, I would like to chuck it over to a serious note and request the title "Altruist" for myself, because it reflects me better than just about any other one word I can think of.... and if that is true, then its rare enough that I seriously would like to request it

First off, Jon, Alan, thank you both for not taking my comment in the wrong way.. I kinda came down like an overbearing big brother there, but you guys understood my overall point, I think. Secondly, this.... pretty well sums up my POV on this subject; beyond that, its a matter of opinions and their proverbial diversity and olfactory essence.

are you aware that some R-200 open diffs are 2 pinion and some ar four pinion? I am not 100% positive I fully understand the difference yet (i still havent reached a point where I can see a differential spinning and functioning in my mind, but its just because ive been too lazy) BUT I know it makes a HUGE difference in the strength of the unit. A welded, four pinion R-200 is "strong enough" to at least get you onto the track and started, and its a junkyarders special, so it barely matters how many of them you break. just a thought.

This immediately followed by this Resulted in this comment: The important part was the very last line. Jon, you simply said that 30-35 year old photographs are not the soundest, most up-to-date technical information source, especially in an aerodynamic sense. Alan responded saying that he never intended the photo collection to be an end-all, know-all Final Word on the subject. Then everyone started pulling words and statements from LESS informed posters, and putting them into each others mouths. Nobody really disagreed over anything until peoples points were misunderstood.... Alan, I am sure you do not doubt the validity of more recent information sources, and Jon, I am sure you see where the wisdom in using the vintage racing experience as a stepping-off point is.... ..and thats it! why get panties in a wad over such a simple matter? Ignore the cretins, and the clowns like me who know alot, but don't really Know yet, and relax. Flame wars are bad for the stomach lining.

WOW I like the looks of that!! Its very reminiscent of the Roadster consoles actually, and it might not be all that difficult to find a genuine datsun center console to bolt in for an arm rest instead of building one. I have to start looking at parts with this in mind now, hmmmm...... Did you bevel the leading edges and corners of the two side pieces, or is that just a "blunting" effect from the vinyl wrapped around it? Here is a thought as far as reproducing this is concerned.. How about making patterns for the pieces of MDF that you used? That way, if you would be so kind as to distribute them freely, anyone who wants could do the same thing on their own rather than take your time to do so. One thing I might have done differently would be the material used for the "face" of the console.. I would have tried using either a piece of plywood or possibly some sort of fiberglass sheet, and cut square holes out for using the stock switches and indicator lights from that section of the original console.. but thats primarily because I am almost obsessed with the stock look inside my Datsun

=42 would be great, but Anomalous is nice and Wagnerian-sounding. On another note, thinking about this inspired me to one of my best license plate ideas yet.. I GROK Z

all right, this thread is funnier than a bag of kittens (seriously, try it sometime.. its freakin hysterical) but THAT was the bit that caused me to spray iced tea all over my monitor. Thanks Paul, always good for a laugh. EDIT and before I got from post #35 to the end, my title was changed to Anomalous. Works for me!

Well... of Course!

mopar... I am not a big fan of the hood (I6 for me) OR the wing, OR the 2+2, all for primarily aesthetic purposes. However, the lines for the rear fenders that you put on that car turn the 2+2 body shape into something I have NEVER seen it... the wing and hood are neither here nor there. My point is (strictly speaking aesthetically) that is probably the nicest 2+2 concept I have ever seen! It somehow evokes the huge rear fenders from say, a 70s corvette, without looking REMOTELY like anything but a Z. In fact, it looks more like a 2 seater Z should than many flared 2 seater Zs... bah, im just babbling my opinion away. Nice drawing!

Thats just a hair over half a millimeter. Less than half of the 0.050" that you had stated OTM, and that is a COUNTRY MILE when you are thinking of flame kernels. You could probably slip a fingernail clipping in between the piston at TDC and cylinder head on 1fastZ's engine... but I doubt you could fit a big toenail clipping in there. (If that is a little gross, forgive me, but it was the simplest real-world grounding I could think of ) Obviously I am no Quench Sage, nor am I the omniscient Master of Combustion... but I have gathered from discussion here that 0.050" of clearance is not squish, its more like squash.

I have a question for you datsun guys that have been around for a few laps longer than I have..... IS there any other engine that has quite so much of a combination of real-world miles, plus race-engineered knowledge, other than your standard pushrod american V8s? the turbo ford motors are extensively run, and the rotaries are a rather simple equation.. VWs might contend, and the mini cooper motor (As I understand it) was made in such ridiculous numbers that it might also be on the list... but my point is, collectively, SO MUCH intricate knowledge of the various combinations of part runs for the L-series has had such a VAST "trickle-down" from countless hours and years of racing success. Are there any other engines that might be on this sort of list that I am missing? Is my point getting adequately conveyed at all? Or am I just rather limited in my exposure to real in-depth knowledge of various specific engine families?

just like the coelacanth.....

Too Cool!! (and stephen colbert welcomed all of his writers back onto the show tonight (writer's strike is over) with a big she-bang, had them each come out one at a time, greeted them by name, had them walk to the side stage for a "Team Photo." Mr. Met was the last "writer" to come out, but the other shoe what you KNEW was gonna drop came out a face or two before Mr. Met.. and guess who??? Kevin Bacon! Ka-POW!)

I know nortons and triumphs came with SU carbs, but my points were all in the past tense. IMHO, not recognizing an SU is about on par with not recognizing a weber..... but thats just me. Obviously everyone isn't going to be barking up every tree.... it just kinda blew my mind. Spilling oil out of the carb is another thing; we all make mistakes. Ever tip a datsun manual transmission bellhousing end up without a drive axle in the back? Get the kitty litter out