Daeron

does anyone have a picture of the non-speaker fiberglass panel installed on a door? I NEVER Would have thought I would even CONSIDER something like fiberglass door panels, but you can't FIGHT them at this price!

how much were those motor mounts? They look reeeeal purdy in the picture. As for your buddy's teacher.. must be an american car guy SU carburetors are on many many english automobiles and motorcycles, and I have also seen them on Fiats. They probably came on other makes as well; they are almost as common as webers in europe, and probably as common as any other brand (solex, dellorto.. and I know im forgetting at LEAST one that belongs on this list) PLUS, the hitachi SU ripoffs were used on virtually all datsuns sold with sidedraft carburetors... (The More You Know: datsun "SU's" are most assuredly NOT genuine SU carburetors, but instead direct copies made by hitachi. ) Sorry, I just had to rip on a shop teacher who "had never seen an SU."

GREAT drawings, and thanks for the plain word confirmation that the piston comes asymptotically close to the cylinder head on that "squish pad" (dunno if I am using that term right, but at least you know which spot I mean) If you'll forgive me, I took that "quench" jpg and cut out the combustion chamber, the first image is a straight horizontal inversion of it, and the second is both horizontally AND vertically inverted: inverted X axis: inverted X and Y axis: now, the plain and simple version of it ALL is.... On a closed-chamber, "Quenching" or "Squishing" head, you would want a Flat top piston with a combustion chamber carved into it corresponding most closely to the second picture; that is, flipped on two axes. Right?

I think your neighbor is failing to realize that our pistons are built to all but impact the cylinder head in that section where the combustion chamber is flat and level with the deck of the head. the PISTON keeps gases out of that area (effectively enough) and prevents the "badness" he is seeing. That is based on two IFs: IF I understand what you are saying your neighbor is saying; and IF I am not HORRIBLY misconceived on piston to head clearances. I *am* still a n00b

My Uncle just sold a set of pristine 14x6 American Racings on ebay for over 800 buxx0rs. we have i think four more, maybe a total of six more, but two are unpainted and a little rough, and four have the spokes painted gold metallic. I know he would sell them for the right price, but I don't know what that is. If you REALLY want them, send me a PM with an opening offer and I will take it from there.

and I was afraid I wasn't making the humor plain enough

My knowledge hoard isn't the sharpest, but I honestly thought that DCOE style webers went all the way down to 36mm diameter.. I did a brief net search (mostly google, wikipedia, and redline) and found enough to convince me 100% on the 38s, at least "once upon a time," but inconclusive evidence of 36 DCOEs. A few references to "36 dcoe" that may have been misconceived, and alot of co-incidence os "DCOE" and "36" where the 36 referenced a DGV. I really want to say I have seen 36mm side draft webers, or mikuni/solexes at least. If I am incorrect, then it is from confusing mikuni sizes with weber sizes. FWIW

You people!!!!!! You HAVE to give me new things to think about adding to the worklist.....

It's done right, but its only going to fail again in another 10-30 years. IMHO, the BEST way to fix this issue, is to get a new switch AND install a relay.

Could we Little Folk please get some pictures of pistons that have been machined accordingly? I, for one, have never (knowingly?) seen a photo of a piston that had been machined to match the combustion chamber shape of an L series head. I think what OTM is reaching for is further visualization of the hard parts, to latch on to all the theoretical knowledge in his head. At least, that was what I thought as I was reading his post.. "This is pretty much the question I am asking myself in my progress in understanding all this. I wonder if anyone has any pictures of pistons cut like that?" Photos of the pistons assembled into a shortblock, with one or more at TDC, would be ESPECIALLY helpful.

Roadster. The REAL FairLady!!! Beautiful work, that looks like my Uncle's 67 but far far nicer. I like the interior and low windshield of the older ones, but the technological divide between these cars (especially the mid sixties vintage) and even the carbureted Z-cars is ABSURD.. the beautiful part is that with minimal innovation, ALOT of the bits and pieces used on the Z (even some engine internals) can be used on the roadsters all the way back to 64ish. When I talk roadster I am honestly in over my head; but my uncle is a True afficionado and has infected me with the disease too. If only we didn't all have Z's, we might actually have TIME to work on the Roadsters!!! (AND the old boats, AND go fishing... )

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Find EFI & Fuel, scroll down. It is linked to from there. Sorry, I was lazy last night. For the benefit of future searchers: blue's tech tips page blue techtip efi bible manual book service fuel injection bible

get six NGK BPR 6ES-11 plugs, get a new cap and a new rotor, and get new spark plug wires. The ignition switch is an easy hurdle to jump. Oil: drain it, replace the filter with a quality unit, put in a quart or two of cheapo oil, add 6 ounces of Seafoam, and top off with more cheap oil.. run it a little bit, get the engine GOOD and hot a couple of times, and after 100 miles or so (up to 500 should be no problem) start the engine one day, get it warming up (but not TOO hot) and then cut it and change the oil and filter again. Do NOT use FRAM oil filters. For this second oil change, use your favorite quality motor oil. After all that is said and done, find Blue's TechTips page, find the EFI portion of that page, download the "EFI Bible," read it, and test every single tiny little component of your fuel injection system. You don't usually have to go THAT far; the book gives you flowcharts and diagnostic procedures, AFTER giving you a wonderfully clear, easy-to-understand, and THOROUGH explanation of how the system works, and how each component works in harmony to make your Z go BRRRAAAAP!!! This Bible is well named; I have heard tales (I think it was TonyD, but dont quote me on that) of people walking up to a 280Z that had been sitting in a field for years. They put a battery in the car, went through component by component checking for proper connections and functionality, put fresh gas in her, and she fired right up and purred like a kitten. The L-Jetronic style system that Datsun designed in the mid 70's was in certain ways, a member of a pinnacle group of EFI systems. By today's standards it is grossly lacking in real-time functionality and for performance purposes, is next to worthless.. but on the other hand, it is a WONDERFULLY simple system, and it is very easy to make all the pieces work together for a daily driver. Nobody in my family knew SQUAT about EFI until I got my 75 (and my brother and dad had each owned 280ZXs by that time, one of them a turbo) and I kept that thing purring for five years without a peep. after a year or two, I had begun to wonder why anyone would ever scrap the system in favor of carbs; after four years I was beginning to understand the limitations. Now I can't get the megasquirt diagrams out of my head, and my plans for what my monster shall be keep snowballing daily. What I am saying is, you can work through "that whole EFI mess" much much MUCH easier than you might think. Start out with fresh ignition consumables, flush the oil like I detailed, may as well run some sea foam through the gas tank to clean the injectors out, and if things still dont run quite right consult Scripture. Get some fun out of her before you part her out; a good running engine is worth more than an engine that "seems fine, but we never really got it running quite right."

How is the quality of the back-up light through that smoked lens?? Personally, I don't care too much for it, but the back-up light would be the deciding factor. It looks to me like that lens may tint the color of the light too much for my taste. Backing up at night is enough fun with feeble lighting from the 80's (or older) and I wouldn't be able to see if it were darkened much. Then again, my night vision plays havoc with me when I have conflicting light and dark areas, so that may just be me.

the fiberglass fix is a GREAT cheap and easy way to do it.... but in doing so, you are basically sealing up any rusted spots you glass over, and the rust WILL continue to spread in a WICKED way. I did this myself with my passenger floorboard; There were two ENORMOUS rust holes (I lost a five D cell mag lite out of one of the holes once) so I cut the entire floor section out. Make sure that you cut a good margin of clean metal out around any rusted section. That is why my entire floorboard went; there was no point leaving the two awkward corners of the original sheetmetal there. I used cardboard as a form to lay the dry sheets down, overlapped about 3" onto the sheetmetal of the trans tunnel and the firewall and rockers, did a double layer of fiberglass mat, and laid the resin in. It really is that easy, and if you get thick enough mat, and use enough resin (not hard to do, easy to sponge up any excess if you are prompt about it) you could literally jump up and down on the resultant floor. The frame rail runs right along the center of it, so there is a tremendous amount of support gained there. IF this car is a 2+2 that you are "just learning on anyhow" then the glass may be the best way to go... but it is not the superfix, its a 10-20 year solution where new sheetmetal could last 100 years if taken god care of.

twisted

the 76 FSM is already available for download in PDF format on the carfiche.com website. As for the 75 FSM... :hail: and a for me. or, maybe, I shouldn't count my eggs before they are hatched.

ayyyyyyyyyyyy............... speechless==rare.

what was stock tire size again, 175? Stock rims were 5, 5 1/2" wide? That doesn't add up at all.. should I not be surprised that stock wheels are truly so woefully inadequate? I ask because I may be able to easily acquire a pair of 14x6 and a pair of 14x7 dish mags that are REALLY nice looking, but I start thinking and get to a point where this logic is telling me that 6" rims get 150 mm tires..... wrong! So where do things fail to add up at this end of the spectrum?

pete: those are photographs of Carl's car? They actually look like images of a toy or a model for some reason; I think its the surface that the car is parked on and the lack of anything else in the image to give it perspective.. Those Libras look NICE on that Z! I always was a fan of the more classic rim selections.

Awesome to hear! I *do* still think you may have better results understanding the situation with a more popular type of EMS; this is one of those rare situations where popularity seems to have sense behind it, and less-than-popular choices seem to be so for good reason. In any case, I am sure the car will be more capable, as long as your tuner can unlock it. Good luck Mike, and let us know in a few months whether you regret this decision or are happy with it.

I've heard it attributed to both "origins" and have considered the two terms interchangeable; the overall purpose was to point out a funny accident of language and NOT to draw out any sort of slanderous intent. I am something of a student of the English Language, and love playing with its loopholes and oddities; one of which is the duality of the phrase used. I thought it was kinda funny; I wanted to point that out to anyone else who might appreciate such. My apologies if I was misunderstood.

that was exactly my thought when I first saw the diverters and "bumps" were lined up with each other. Obviously the flow analysis shows that it works fine with the other two pairs, and you are already on this track. Other than that, all I have to say is WOW. again.

I thought so, too, at first.. but that is DEFINITELY the fairing from the later years in that last photo he posted (sans bumper bar.)

yer preachin to the choir on that one, brother..... I drove my 75 around for five years in Florida with not only a busted rear defrost, but no functioning ventilation so nothing to blow on the foggy windshield either.. AND the driver window had no regulator mechanism (just a chunk of 2x4 I held it up with when it was parked in the rain, parked and "locked," or when the monsoon was driving the rain directly into my window!)