aziza z

Alright people. The car runs. Sort of. It will start and run for a couple of seconds then die. If I rev it to keep it alive it will stay alive for a while. However after a while of holding the rev in one spot it gradually goes down and the car dies. It this the warm up enrichment? Car wont idle on its own for very long though.

Depends on what it says.

The seats fit. Would be good with the dash. Check this link out, theres pictures of the seats. I think the seats are alot nicer in the older z cars. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-280ZX-1983-DATSUN-280ZX-5-SPEED-MANUAL-ALL-RESTORED-LOOK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem190279266481QQitemZ190279266481QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

Sounds like the front differential mount. The chances of your "Rear end Rippin out" is slim to none. Even with a bad front mount. The actual design will not "Rip out". http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127073&highlight=diff+clunk http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124328&highlight=diff+clunk http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124410&highlight=diff+clunk http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116288&highlight=diff+clunk

I just bought one as well (for the ls1 car). Haven't tried it yet but when I do i will post my findings.

Thanks for the advice guys. I have done what you guys recommended. That is: zero out the warm up enrichment, zero out the accel enrichment, turn off EGO controller Authority, zero out the MAT correction, I have updated to the latest beta version, changed squirts to 1 for now. Ill give it a shot and let you guys know what I find out tonight.

Good new internet people. Using stater fluid the car idled for 3 seconds. So i was reading over the manual. I got the injectors under simultaneous with 2 injections per cycle. Reading the manual tells me I could also use 1, 2, 3, or 6 squirts. Should I change this? or will 2 work? Required fuel has been calculated to 7.00 (3.5 per squirt if you will). 42lbs injectors, 168cid, 14.7 ratio. Injector open time 1.000 ms, battery correction .100, current limit 100%, pwm time 25.4, pwm period 66us. When i am adjusting fuel does it matter where I do it? (injector characteristics vs. warmup enrichment vs. fuel table?) Almost there guys....

Anyone willing to trouble shoot my MSII install and get it running for $$$? I dont have time for this and need it running asap. Already installed but something is wrong and i dont know what it is. How much would you want? Car is located in costa mesa.

Fail. Set to simultaneous firing. hooked it all to the working inj driver. Got the injectors to fire. Put in brand new spark plugs. Car still does not even try and catch. I got spark, i got fuel. No vaccum leaks, no ms errors. Im back at square one.

All the settings you told me to check are correct.I hook all the injectors on inj2 (because that one works) and switch it to simultaneous injection for now to see it if it will even idle. However i am conviced that the relay board is the problem. When i test voltage at inj 1 (the driver that does not work) i see no voltage. If i test inj2 (the working driver) it shows .2volts.

Same story. Trying to finish both cars before school. And yea Justin is delaying my car. haha. Anywho the lights looks great. Dont forget to post night pictures when you get it all wired up. Would be nice to see how much of an improvement it will be. Might have to add it to my list of ♥♥♥♥ to do on aziza.

whats up G! Looks great man.

You are correct this is exactly what was happening. This helped alot. thanks. this got inj2 to fire (injectors for cyl 1 2 3). However inj1 (injectors for cyl 4 5 6) do not fire. So i thought it was my wiring. Nope. Everything is correct. Theres even the right voltage at all the right places (2v on the - side of the relay board for the injectors and 12 v through the wire). Is there a setting i may have overlooked for the other bank? !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just to see if it was an output setting or an actual injector problem I switched the ground wires for the injectors that came off the relay board. This got the 2nd bank that didnt fire before to fire, and the 1st bank that use to fire, to not fire. This leads me to believe that it is an out put setting specifically (inj1) So does this mean its a software error? Hardware? Could i hook all the - side of the injectors to inj2? They would all fire at the same time. Would this be bad? I saw a couple of people on the ms forum doing this.

I tested it after unplugging it from the injector. But its still getting power on the - side of the injector plug even when its unplugged from the injector itself.

Ok so a guy on the ms forum mentions this: "The two pins of the injector are always connected, with usually a maximum of 15 ohm resistance. When you probe the negative side of the injector with a test light, you are just seeing the power coming into it via the + pin, running through the injectors relay windings, and then out to earth through your test light. If you unplug the injector and probe the negative side of the plug on your loom with the test light, you should see no power." So I did some testing with the test light. I unplugged each injector and the negative side of each injector with a test light still shows power coming into it! that doesnt make sence if its getting power through the + side of the injector as both of them are live. Is there a setting in megatune i might have over looked?

I dont have an iac valve. Should i just unplug the relay then? The buzzing (which is actually really loud) stops when its not in place.

Ill correct the polarity issue.

I dont have a stimulator. A new thing just popped up. After cranking the car, theres a loud buzzing noise coming from the relay closest to the connector on the relay board when the key is still powered on. I thought it was the relay. So i swapped it for a new one. The new one does the same buzzing noise.

I feel stupid for asking this question, but it might help. I was taking a closer look at my injectors and i noticed the "+" and "-" symbols on them. I didnt notice that during installation and just made sure i wired a + and _ to each injector. I figured as long as each injector get a + and a - it should work (closes the circuit i guess you can call it). Does it matter that the + side of my wire (from relay board) goes to the + marking on the injector? Or does it not matter as long as it get it. I dont know if its clear what im trying to say. Also i still have the 1k resistors wiring like the diagram posted earlier. Could these be causing the problem? Do i need them for my setup? Just shooting in the dark at this point people. I know im close.

Is there anyone in the so cal area that can help? Everything is correct. Ive checked everything a thousand times already. This car should be running!

For those following this thread here is the link to the ms forum. http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=30164&p=198744#p198744 Hope this gets resolved asap. Running out of time.

Maybe I jumped the gun with this MSII EXTRA stuff. Im sure the regular MSII could have done just fine for me. Kinda got me wondering if i should just go to the regualar code. About the PWM time threshold. It is already set to 25.4 I have searched the megasquirt forum everyday. Helped a little but not really. I think I will post my questions there as well. Im pretty desperate at this point. Thats for the compliments on the ls z. If you are ever in the area send me a pm so u can see it. I am two miles from the nissan dealer. Hope fully ill have it off jackstands again soon (new wheels and coilovers in the works). FUnny how you mention that car. To be honest i had a much easier time working on that ls motor than the L series motor.

When mega tune shows pulse width, does that necessarily mean that the injectors are firing? Kinda lost here guys. I need this car up and running before school starts (I dont have a daily anymore)!

That light works. There is no solid light next to it however.

Injectors are off of a ford lightning. (470cc) 0280150558. They are high impedance. On the front of the mega squirt when the ignition is clicked on all the light flicker for a second (i have read that this is the correct thing that should happen). During cranking the led closest to the plug comes on and off rapidly. None of the other lights are on during cranking.