Milenko2121

Woops, I mean't to put -19 vacuum at idle on a separate line. Fuel pressure is 36psi with the hose disconnected. 1987 Z31 Turbo California Spec ECU (I have two, no difference swapping between either) ECU connectors are also cleaned. By functioning correctly, I meant that I had tested it according to the FSM, and it meets what FSM wants. My O2 sensor is 3 months old bosch brand OEM replacement. It passes the FSM test and my Innovate LC-2 reads ~14.5-15 under 3k RPM during cruising and ~12-11 under WOT. I'll see if I can get a better odometer test soon. Also, my method for determine MPG is I wait till near empty, fill up, write down odometer and how much gas was pumped. I use the best average over 4 fill ups (they're usually the same when I'm under similar driving) Wouldn't my engine run rich even after warmed up if my CHTS was indeed still somehow bad? Other than this MPG issue, the car runs perfect. Pulls hard (14.1@99mph with 10psi) and feels very smooth. Thanks for your help so far

Engine was from an automatic so it has that cam. No EGR O2 is hooked up and functioning properly switches off at 3k rpm as well ECU Isn't throwing codes other than knock due to it not being connected. CHTS is working and functioning correctly. TPS is adjusted correctly Adjustable Aeromotive FPR set to 36 psi with hose disconnected 900rpm -19 vacuum idle. Timing set to 18btdc Cam timing is set to stock specs with a new chain(5k on it). MAF tested good and is metering air properly. Voltage sticks around 14.4v I put the entire system together. I posted tires before, 24.9 diameter inflated to 36psi all 4 corners(checked this yesterday). My speedometer is accurate +-1mph pacing my buddies 2011 Audi S4 at 65mph, GPS, and getting pulled over going 49 in a 45. Odometer I have not tested yet, but when I did my trip from Vegas to California it was around 330 miles, and my odometer was very close to this. I averaged 20mpg on the trip going 75@2800rpm for majority of the desert, and it was the same at 70@2600rpm. Let me know if you need more info. EDIT: fixed fuel pressure statement

I've been trying to chase down why I'm getting poor fuel economy (15 city / 19 hwy). Just to get some background. Stock junkyard L28ET with 220k on it (135 compression across the board, no leak down yet) S14 transmission (0.759 5th) with a 3.545 r200 I cruise 70 around 2600rpm and my O2 reads around 14.5-15 AFR with around -12 vacuum 24.9 diameter tires (225/50r16) 16x8 0 offset I'm hearing people get 25+ on stock EFI so I am a bit confused as to why I can't hit 20. I'm planning on installing MS1 ECU that I have sitting around soon, but just wanted to understand a bit more as to why my MPG isn't the greatest.

I didn't have any spacers in mine as far as I saw. I just cleaned the tube and put some light weight cheap autozone oil in it. The install was one of the easiest mods I've done for how big the effects were. I will warn you, be careful with that nut on the top of the strut. It is a D shape to fit in the strut mount and I had my slot strip on me(this was a pain in the ass to fix because the nut was on and it spun freely). Here is a photo of the drop after 4 months of daily driving and a little bit of fun. Tire diameter is 24.9 stock is 24.7 so it shouldn't be too different. Before (stock) After

Just went to http://www.xenons30.com/ and it says they're doing a redesign.

Just an update. I purchased these about 4 months ago and so far I love them. Huge difference from my old stock shocks. The springs are nice as well, I don't get much squat when I launch at the drags or do a 3rd gear pull getting on the freeway. I got the 240z ST sways as well, and I've eliminated A LOT of my body roll, it feels flat and smooth now during corners. For how cheap this set was, I'd recommend it. Also, I'm running BF Goodrich Comp-2's 225/50r16 all 4 corners on XXR 522 16x8 0 offset. I've yet to get to the AutoX events here yet to fully test them out, but I have been able to play in some empty parking lots and the handling feels like a whole other car. Also, for everyday driving (this is my Daily) it's actually very nice over bumps and just cruising. I took it from Vegas to California and back. It was a comfortable ride. The drop is nice as well(roughly 2 finger gap with 24.9dia tires, I'll see if I can get some photos later.

I need a driver side half-shaft in good condition for my '77 280z R200 diff. /closed got the part

what cam are you running with that?

Just to add, I have an S14 SR20 transmission. L28 bellhousing bolts right to the tail of the SR20. You just need to enlarge the center bearing hole and 1st/2nd shifter slot then machine the surface around the bearing down slightly for clearance. The S14 housing is the same with the S13 KA's SOHC and DOHC as well. Much smoother shifting, sealed bearings, cheaper, easier to find, OEM parts available still, and best of all, they're a hell of a lot stronger. As for the transmission mount, I just cut mine and moved it back and rewelded and added strengthening. Also had a shorter driveshaft made. Here's a couple pics I found online. Link for those interested. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/

I am so glad to not see Nissan on that list

Thanks for the tip, I just prefer manual rack. I know not to buy those "rebuilts" read that on here. I did find an article here http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/StrRack.htm that seemed to be promising, and for the oil seal I believe I read the 280zx one is still made and is pretty dead on to the 280z one. Would anyone happen to know the average price for a good condition used rack and/or a new rack?

I'm refreshing my suspension and my rack has play. I've looked into a rebuild and it appears the parts required are no longer made. Does anyone know where I can source a brand new rack and what they usually go for? Thanks, Mil

Anymore reviews on these? Thinking of picking these up to get rid of my stock suspension that just blew two shocks.

I'm in Ventura, CA right now. My turbo seized on me. I need a stock or a hybrid turbo that bolts to stock manifold and exgaust. Text for faster response. Can't do shipping need this quickly. 805-three20-four371

I recently re did my interior and had to get new rivets. I refuse to pay near a $1 for a small piece of plastic so I did some searching and found a replacement rivet. I had seen an old post on another forum(forgot which) and a user used these on his Z. I bought them last week and they just got here today. They fit almost perfectly, they just require a little persuasion by tapping them in gently with a hammer. FORD FENDER SHIELD PUSH TYPE RETAINERS OEM 387843-S I got 50 of them for $12 including shipping over on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/260774018886?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Figured i'd put this here for someone else in the future searching for a rivet replacement and doesn't want to spend almost a $1 on a single rivet.

Just pull the fuel line off the fuel filter in the engine bay and see if fuel squirts out. Most likely if it sat for that long, the injectors are seized. I've seen it happen a lot on these cars from my personal experience.

Mine appears to be centered in front of me. I haven't gone and done precise measurements, but I didn't notice a difference when switching from the stock seats.

I can tell you that my Sparco's almost hit my window. I'd say they touch just barely. Also, if you redrill the brackets, you can shift the seat left or right. I know I have over 2 inches of space from the side of my seat to the center console. I may redo the brackets to bring it in closer.

I have Sparco R100's in my 280z if you're looking for something similar. There is another user on here who also put these in his Z as well. All I did was redrill the stock brackets and it bolted up.

Thanks, I messaged him and it's MS1Extra on v2.2 board. Only ECU and Harness no sensors. I'll consider it, but I want to get some other options first.

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Thanks for the info on this tire. I did not know that. They were just the biggest tire I was able to find that'd fit on my 14" rim and keep stock tire diameter. As far as pressure, I was running 30psi. I wasn't sure if I should run less since they're a street tire. I may try the 25psi on my next trip to the track in September. I've removed all the spare tire stuff and I'm running Sparco R100's. Lightest seat I've ever owned. I can curl them with one arm moderately easy and I'm a light built guy, haha. The track prep was top notch. Even when I broke the driveshaft when I stepped out of the car, my shoes were sticking to the track halfway down. Their clean up crew was awesome as well.

I believe at my track, a perfect is .500. I'm running 225/60-14 BF Goodrich Radial T/A. I believe my issue is mostly the size of my rims. They're 6" maybe 5.5" so I'm not getting full contact.

found

Wow