Milenko2121

found gauge please close thread

Looking for a good afpr to add to replace the stock one so that I can better tune running more boost.

Looking to replace my non-functional clock with a boost gauge that has a black face. Thanks

Looking for a Barbed rail for stock injectors. Thanks

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Awesome, clutch disc material broke off on the transmission side. This day gets better and better.

Well, wasn't the master, so I'm pulling my transmission today. I sure thought my Centerforce clutch would hold up better than this. I wonder what happened...

can't edit my post. Forgot to add, I can shift without the clutch just fine, 0 slipping, no noises from the tunnel at all. This is kind of just odd, might just replace the master and see what happens.

Well, after my first round with my clutch issues where Autozone carries the clutch masters with the shortened rod, and took me awhile to figure out why I couldn't disengage my clutch, I was able to extend it and it worked. Now today, just going from 5th to 4th going 60, my clutch pressure just gave out. I checked the clutch throw when I got home, and it's moving the slave just fine, but it's a lot softer. I checked out the throwout bearing and it's moving with the fork against the pressure plate. Is it possible the clutch master has a small enough break in it that it can't get enough throw now? It's not like there is 0 pressure, it still has pressure and moves the slave a whole inch.

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I'd total the car out, get the payment (around $2200), buy the car back(about $200), fix whatever broke(or sell it and buy another one in better condition), and use the rest to upgrade the car. I had my 280z totaled out when an old asian lady smashed in my front right fender. It was 100% driveable, no alignment needed, i pulled out the dent, and it's been perfect fine ever since. Apparently, a fender is more than 50% of what they value the car at. I live in Vegas, and that's where I had my accident occur as well.

Haha, of course I did. I got one of those chain wedges that Motorsports sells. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TE/60-9921

Hmm, editor isn't working. I just took off the valve cover to check it again, and it has about half inch of deflection with my finger and an inch if I wedge a wrench in there. The whining noise I assume is it eating away the chain guides. Still worried about this thing though.

Hmm, well this is odd. I had my wedge in the chain like always, and I took off the sprocket, turned it to #2 and put it back on but... Now the timing chain is rediculously tight, there is 0 slack whatsoever, and when the engine is running it's making a horrible whining noise. Could I get some insight on this, and how to correct the problem? I'm scared to drive the car in fear the timing chain will break.

I've found lots of guides on this, but none of them are very specific as to what you turn to advance the camshaft. At this point, all I've found is you wedge the chain, take off sprocket, and then that's where I'm confused. What do you turn to adjust? I assumed I would rotate the cam with sprocket off, but when I try going from hole #1 to hole #2, a valve just about goes into a piston on cylinder #6 before it can get to #2. Do I just rotate the sprocket itself without rotating the cam or crank? This is of course all at TDC, verified by distributor and with the head off(I set TDC before taking head off). Might be a simple answer, but I rather ask than try it myself and break something. Thanks,

I don't have a low press switch. Where would you recommended getting a new hose and drier from?

I Had my AC system recharged with R12 two weeks ago, and yesterday the hose blew open on the return line. Why would this happen? Is my compressor done now because it ran for at least 5 minutes while it was like this. It made no noise at all that this happens. Also, would it be safe to just replace the line? I'm trying to understand why this happened.

you could always just follow the wire from the compressor back to your firewall and see where it pops out. Mine goes through firewall near my pedal, to a switch under my steering wheel. Feels so ghetto, but hey, I got a car from the 70's with working R12 AC in the desert, so I do not complain.

thank you, i'll probably pick up those tools to check it out, didn't know it was that cheap. I've gotten rid of my clunks with my current differential after I changed the mount. Mine was old and the rubber was practically gone. It was horrible to try to even take off, my differential was smacking the bottom of the car it seemed like. So, the differential could be in spec, but have this "click" when the ring gear starts to rotate? Just wondering if this click is normal because when my current was out of the car, it didn't have this click, and felt a lot stiffer.

I recently purchased a 3.545 differential from a junkyard, and when I got home and took off the back cover to replace the gasket, I noticed that when I rocked the ring gear it would "click" once before it would start turning. I don't have the tools to measure backlash on it. What are the downsides to running it like this? I'm only putting down about 220rwhp with my turbo. My current differential takes a little bit of effort before it will start turning, but this one turns easily compared to it. Only issue I notice is that click. There is no oil in it currently since the cover is still off, would that stop this click? Also, reason for switch is because my current is a 3.9, and I wanted better fuel economy by getting the 3.545.

Do you have any pictures of how he routed the piping under the radiator?

if that happened on my car, first thing i'd check would be my fuse box, and be sure everything is getting the voltage it should while in the on position. then i'd test your fusible links. after that, i'd check your key assembly and test it. here's a diagram

Did you paint it in an paint booth? Just curious, as to how well this would work for the average person who wants to get a decent cheap paint job in his garage. Also, are you considering the gloss they have available? I've been thinking of doing this dip, but haven't committed to it yet.

Have you done a leak down test? It's a bit more important.