Milenko2121

I'm currently rebuilding my motor so I want to reuse my arp head studs. Does anyone know the part number for replacements? Thanks, Mil

http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php download the Factory Service Manual that corresponds with your car. This will have the answers to any question you'll ask regarding a stock Z.

Thank you!

Just checking in to see if anyone has these again.

Just keep in mind the coolant coming out of the block near cylinder 6 has already cycled through the engine. If you end up not using the line for a turbo, you should plug near the head and you should plug the entrance to the water inlet even if you use the line there to cool the turbo because if you route water back to it, you're just putting hot water back into your motor instead of getting nice cold coolant from the radiator. Route the coolant back to the thermostat housing instead. You'll see lower coolant temps with them plugged. If you end up deleting the external bypass, you can drill a small hole in the thermostat to act as a bypass instead to prevent you blowing a hose if you go WOT before the thermostat opens.

I ordered mine and it took 3 days to get to me. Good info on that, I didn't think to check that. I'll double check tonight on it.

Here is another option that I use. Kameari Reinforced Crank Pulley Bolthttp://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d02b/10-2167 Raised center goes towards crank if you end up getting this.

bump

Hello, I'm getting my pieces together for a haltech s500 install and needed to grab a few things. Engine is a L28ET I need 1. Coil bracket to mount 6 LS coils to the side of the block 2. 6 smart LS coils that would mount to the bracket 3. High impedance injectors under 400cc sized oring or barbed that fit stock intake manifold and injector plug connectors. 4. Trigger wheel adapter for crank pulley with sensor/mount that fits L28ET stock 3 row pulley with 3rd removed. OR 5. Distributor block off cap to continue using the internal CAS. Also, I'm looking for a dome light cover, mine has rotted out. Thanks, Mil EDIT: found all I needed, please close.

wow, that's cool. thanks for sharing this. i'll be following the build

It's most likely you weren't on compression stroke when you installed it so that's why it was 180deg off.

I've been searching for a rebuild kit, and after finding a lot out of stock, I found this on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Major-Kit-For-Nissan-280Zx-S130-Coupe-79-81-Master-Cylinder-23-81mm-K7864X-/301748370753?hash=item46419abd41:g:x8kAAOSwVL1WAiC0&vxp=mtr Does anyone have experience with this kit? EDIT: also found this quoting this part number on post #2 ACTUATION Kit-B M/Cyl (Min) 03/1979 - 08/1981 COUPE, DISC/DISC, 6 CYL, 2.8 LITRE, 23.81 mm K7864X http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/4500-pbr-after-market-part-numbers/

Ah, turbo lag, always makes the other guy think he has a chance

I am using the smaller Z31 coil. I'm installing Megasquirt soon, and I'm wanting to have the wiring look nice, but the ignition coil where it is currently doesn't make this as easy. Is it possible for me to mount the coil to the side of the intake manifold(or front of engine near distributor) without any issues? First time dealing with moving a coil so I don't know where coil(s) are supposed to properly be mounted. Thanks, Mil

I have the Borla XR-1 3" in out round style. I got it after hearing this I don't run a cat, and I don't have drone from what I can tell.

You could buy a whole 1982-83 280zxt instead. Sometimes on craigslist. This would gives you a lot of very useful parts. Other than that, I don't know much about buying motors from anywhere but craigslist/junkyards.

5K isn't enough to do an RB swap properly(I believe 10k is when you're good). As the basic words of wisdom go, if you can't do it right the first time, it'll cost you more in the long run. 5k into an L28ET swap would be amazing. I've put around $1500 into my L28ET swap (just the engine part/exhaust/ecu/supporting mods) You also need to keep in mind, the RB was never made in the states. If anything breaks, you'll need to pay a premium on shipping to get parts over here. If you stick with the L28ET you can get parts everywhere.

Why not go for the L28ET from a 280zx turbo? You can pickup the motor from a junkyard for around $500 usually. My junkyard let me compression test mine before I bought it, and it's being running strong. What are your power goals? You can get 250rwhp/300tq reliably for around $1000 or less once you have the engine. For $1500 invested you could have a 13 second car which is plenty fast for a daily.

Thanks for all the tips and help. I will replace my air filter and see how that helps. Mine is a bit old. My MAF is not wired for self cleaning. I cleaned it recently using MAF cleaner to see if it would help, but not much changed (voltage reading was similar). No gasket leaks. I'll see about getting the fuel temp sensor resister wired in, not sure how much this helps. My injectors are a little over a year old, I bought them brand new from O'reilly. They're bosch branded. I've never flow tested them. My spark plugs all look very similar as well. Altitude varies, i'm in Vegas which says around 2100ft. I have a stock front airdam.

The Vogtland's that came with the strut kit for the 280z. VA front HA rear

Stock timing is 20, I was running 18 because I added psi and was worried, but I just bumped it back to 20, 2 degrees shouldn't be a 5+ mpg difference I'd think anyway. I also have the injectors wired correct for the batch firing, and flipped inj 5 and inj 3 on the harness as well. I'll do another valve adjustment today and see if I can pull more vacuum on the freeway. And update on the codes. I had the knock sensor wrong code, I forgot I fixed that awhile ago. It's only throwing code 41 which is fuel temp sensor which from what I read, won't throw it in limp mode.

What I meant by "It passes the FSM test" I had meant the Factory Service Manual that I downloaded from xenonz31.com for my exact model car the ECU came from. This is further supported by the fact it stays around 14.5 AFR while cruising under 3k RPM(z31 ecu switches over to open loop at 3k), and goes 11-12 while under wide open throttle. The O2 sensor that I have installed in my car is the Bosch branded narrowband OEM replacement for a 1987 300zx Turbo installed at 12o'clock position. The Titania style O2 sensor. It uses a resistance rather than voltage to tell the ECU what the AFR should be. Not only does it pass the Factory Service Manual test, it also is keeping my AFR's at 14.5-15 according to my Innovate LC-2 Wideband O2 Sensor with a 2 month old Bosch O2 sensor that it came with as a kit direct from Innovate themselves. I installed O2 sensor 26" away from the turbo outlet(Innovate says 24" minimum), clocked it just before the 3 o'clock position as per Innovate's instructions, calibrated it properly according to Innovate's guide, and it has stayed consistent since I bought it. Let me know if you need more info, I tried to make it a little more clear so there's no confusion on my O2 sensors that I'm using. EDIT: I attached a copy of the test procedure from my FSM.

Just a question, could increasing my timing to 20 or 22 btdc effect my MPG? I think I may try this. I'm running 12psi intercooled right now which based on what others on here have, seems safe.

I'm looking for a hub and control arm in good condition before for the front left side. I was replacing my wheel bearings, and the inner race moves around and the wheel has some play still so I need to replace it.