Milenko2121

sounds awesome, with that power transistor on the coil, try and get the z31 version that allows you to mount the ground separate from the coil. Fried two of them on accident, one by having it not grounded (s130 grounds through coil mounted on chassi and I had it off), and the other by wiring it backwards.

I threaded it onto the existing push rod

PROBLEM SOLVED! I bought an M8x1.25mm coupler and a threaded rod (cut the rod down to one inch), and now I have more throw. Clutch disengages and engages PERFECTLY and smooth.

i've been searching, and cannot find a leak. I'm going to remove my master cylinder later today, and see if I can find something because I have no leaking coming from my slave. Just curious though, the fact that I can disengage my clutch for a moment(consistently), does this tell me my clutch is functional, and has to be a problem with the hydraulics?

I called centerforce, and even they had not heard of this or could offer me advice other than to remove the clutch assembly, and use a hydraulic press to simulate clutch movement. I look at the TOB through the fork hole, and it is just barely touching the pressure plate, and as the slave moves, it pushes it against it. The part I'm still highly confused about is how it can disengage for a second if I throw enough force on the clutch pedal fast enough. If I do it rapidly, It's the same effect each time, so it is consistent. There are no weird/different noises coming from my car at all as well.

I have haynes for 280z and 280zx, and all the manuals from xenons130/s30. Nothing tells me why this problem is happening.

I have the turbo collar (the short one). I bleed the system multiple times using that method listed above. made no change in clutch pressure. With a crowbar I'm able to push the fork further than the slave cylinder. Also, not sure if this information helps, but in 5th gear I went WOT and smashed the clutch pedal down as fast as I could, and every time I did that, the clutch disengaged, and let me free rev for about 500 rpms before engaging again. Does that information help at all? I'm about ready to order a 7/8 MC and upgrade all my lines to SS braided for extra clutch pressure if that's all that's required.

oh I have one of those, i thought it was something that physically screwed onto the slave.

never tried submerging before. is there a specific bleeder hose for the 280z slave?

how do you correctly bleed the slave? I've been having someone pump my master cylinder 10 times then hold, then I release the bleeder screw, tighten it, and repeat until a steady stream comes out (i have a rubber hose attached to watch bubbles/fluid)

bought it last sunday because I had believed the master was the problem to not pushing the slave enough, but with the new master, the problem is still there. also, while pressing the pedal and watching the slave, the slave cylinder moves the entire time until my pedal runs out of throw. It's almost as if I can't get enough pressure on the slave.

I have a 1977 280z with an L28ET swap. I'm using the centerforce dual friction clutch for the turbo model. I have a lightened turbo flywheel(240mm) I have the correct clutch collar for the turbo. I replaced the master/slave with brand new ones. I installed the clutch and it worked perfectly for the first day. After that day, it slowly started to not disengage as well. At the end of the 2nd day, it would not disengage at all. I have bleed the entire system 3 times, and the slave cylinder moves the fork(not sure how much it's supposed to move). I have the master cylinder to pedal connection fully extended to get as much pedal throw as I can, and it still will not disengage. What would cause this problem? ============================ UPDATE! PROBLEM SOLVED! I bought an M8x1.25mm coupler and a threaded rod (cut the rod down to one inch), and now I have more throw. Clutch disengages and engages PERFECTLY and smooth.

how do you remove that oil seal holder? http://gyazo.com/e498b70a05f4a01bb883fe7259040624.png this part, how do you pull it out so it can be fixed. i need to replace the this part(mine is bent)

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For Nistune, is there a difference between using the z31 '87 Turbo ecu compared to the '88 turbo ecu? I currently have the '87 ecu installed, but I have two '88 ecus laying around. I did not want to install resistors to use them, but if there is a difference when using Nistune then I would.

What is the different say between a Tial bov and a Godspeed bov? ($250 vs $50) They're both just a spring that runs off vacuum. What is the benefit of dropping the extra $200 that I could put into a better intercooler? I know to never go cheap on a wastegate, but a bov seems much simpler.

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SHE LIVES! Replaced the 280xzt coil and ignitor with a z31 coil and ignitor i got from the junkyard, and she fired right up. Just got everything routed into the car, and I need to go buy an o2 sensor, haha. One weird thing currently though. When I tried to set timing with my old school timing light, the Timing mark keeps moving counter clockwise at a consistent pace.

i ran a diode check that was listed in the '88 300zx efi. my tests showed it faulty. at this point, i've tried every possible wiring solution, and EVERYTHING works except spark. There is no way it's not the power transistor at this point. Headed to a junkyard to pick one up now.

still no luck. Coil/Bracket are mounted directly to car where stock coil used to be. Condenser is mounted to bracket, and B/W hooked into it. on power transistor, B/W is going to ignition on, Y/W goes to pin 5. on ECU pin 34 is going to + side of coil. is there something I am missing? ======================= I'm getting pulse to Y/W on Pin 5, and 12v to B/W =========================== Just tested the power transistor in diode mode. I'm getting continuity no matter the polarity. This means a bad power transistor correct?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8bbdhq3tzyftrdy/IMG_20130415_000312.jpg here is the cabin side of my ignition harness. the person i bought it from had cut it at this end. I'm very certain i'm at the point where it's my ignition harness wiring that is at fault. everything else works as far as I can tell. I'm at a loss as to how to wire it considering my current setup isn't working. and I tested the transistor, and test showed it was fine.

ok good news, I now have fuel. was checking all my grounds and had one bad. now I just need to figure out spark. Can you tell me what exactly happens to create spark? I get 12v to the coil, but what's supposed to ground it?

I do not use pin #3 since I use the 280zxt coil. I measured the ignition pulse using a voltmeter, and it must pulse because it fires up when I have it connected to my L28 ECU.

transistor is good, coil is good, and i get ignition pulse. what next?

I'm not using the z31 coil, I'm using the 280zxt coil.