Milenko2121

Thanks for the tip, but I'm not a fan of the same sided intercoolers. I don't want 3 holes on the left side of my radiator support cut that open. Still torn on the Mishimoto G Series vs the CXRacing intercooler. Not sure why to choose one over the other just yet.

Yeah, this is very tough. I've tested my GPS in a 2004 Acura TL and other cars and it was 100% accurate to their gauge. I tested the 3.545 black cog and it read too fast, did not match GPS. I also had a friend go 60 and when I went "60" he was going faster than me. The 3.9 white cog matches GPS 99% and kept up exactly with my same friend. And even in a transmission calculator, it matches up to what it should be for a 3.9 differential. I'm going to just swap it out for the new differential I bought once I figure out how to fix the backlash. It's too loose, and it clicks when I turn it once. I'm just pissed off because I was excited to have a 3.545 finally so that first gear was actually useful with my turbo. I also just put a new transmission in yesterday because mine grenaded on me going 70. That was fun. Same results with the 3.9 speedo. So this is 3 transmission saying the same thing so far.

If he is stocking fake parts and trying to sell them as real, I would report that to GReddy asap. I hate scum like this. If you never did any in depth research on these products, you'd never know the difference until it breaks and gets sucked into your intake. Good way to lose an engine and a turbo right there.

I just prefer to be on the safe side. Ask for more detailed photos. I posted on that thread with my link and asking for more photos to prove it to be real.

I wouldn't buy that one being offered there. It looks like a fake. The photos show it to be a fake. The easiest spot was the horn does not have 8 holes in it. Second is the adjustment fitting is too long. Third, you can't make it out well, but the vacuum fitting doesn't look cut right around the edge. http://greddy.net.au/news/?id=99

I need a recirculating adapter that fits a GReddy RS BOV and a weld on flange for aluminum piping or I'll buy piping with the flange already on it. Thanks

I live in Las Vegas, so I see over days over 100F regularly during summer. I need to make sure I won't get bad heat soaking. I had to upgrade to an aluminum radiator recently because it couldn't keep my car cool during some recent 110F days. This is my daily driver, and would eventually see the track once I get my suspension. My goal is around 350rwhp with an L28ET. I believe the distance between the openings in my radiator support are 30 inches. I plan on using 2.25 inch piping off the turbo to intercooler, and then 2.5 inch to throttle body.

I'm having huge difficulties with my speedometer. I'm running the factory 195/70/14 in the rear, and 175/70/14 in the front at ~30 PSI. When I purchased the car it had a white speedo cog with 19 teeth in the transmission so I assumed it had a 3.9 differential. GPS was the same 100% of the time, and it said my speed matched what it should be for a 3.9 differential. So obviously, I believed I had a 3.9 differential. Well, I converted to turbo so I wanted longer gears, so I bought a 3.545 differential, and popped off the back to be sure it had 39:11 stamped on it, and the ring gear had 39 teeth, and the pinion gear had 11 teeth. I also ordered a black 17t cog from courtesy nissan to make sure I got the factory part. I dropped my differential, and popped off the back out of curiosity, and it had 39:11BB stamped on the ring gear. This had me confused because that says it's 3.545 already. I counted the teeth on both gears, and yup 39:11. I already had a 3.545 differential. The new one was in better condition so I swapped it in anyway just to be on the safe side. Well, GPS says my speedometer is wrong. GPS says my speedometer is reading too fast. Example, at 2500 RPM my speedometer says i'm going about 60 which a 3.545 should be saying with a 0.864 OD. and at ~3100 RPM my speedo says i'm going 77 which is correct... but the GPS says i'm going 55 at 2500rpm which is correct for a 3.9 differential with the same OD. and at ~3100 RPM it says i'm going 70 which is correct... Can someone please explain what could be going on here? I am highly confused. I've swapped two transmission into my car(for other reasons, not for speedo being wrong) with the same outcomes in speed readings. Before I put the 3.545 speedo cog in, the white speedo cog was giving me the correct speeds that match my GPS. I'd really like to know what exactly is going on at this point. Thanks,

I've been looking for a decent intercooler between $200-300, and I'd really like to stay away from ebay intercoolers. I ran across mishimoto, and they seem pretty legit. Their warranty appears to be awesome as well. Does anyone have any experience or input on these intercoolers? Also, what's the biggest size I can run in my 280z without getting rid of the hood springs?

How bad of a wobble? It's not really supposed to at all. Mine wobbled pretty bad when it separated itself. At this point, you have a wobble, and a missing timing mark. Not going to raise alarms, but that sounds like you need a new pulley.

Called a shop, they told me they could sell me the unit for $69, and they could bump it up to 200amps for $100 more. I'm going there this weekend to talk to them.

do you have a part number on your alternator? I called my shop locally, and they say it does not exist. Online says it only had an 85 amp alternator.

Hmm, I will consider that swap. I am still curious about the 125 amp '95 Maxima alternator swap.

The turnbuckle you used, anything special about it? I've never bought one for modifications so I don't know what to look for. Would something like this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Adjuster-Bracket-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-/170624619147?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ba05128b&vxp=mtr Do you have a part number on that GM Pulley, and was there any work involved in swapping it? Any spacers or machining involved?

Wiring is no problem, I just don't like making modifications to brackets. This CS130 alternator seems more expensive than the 125 amp '95 maxima alternator. What would I have to do with the bracket up top exactly? Do I swap my pulley from my 280zx alternator onto it? Any machining of the pulley required?

if you can't see your timing mark, it's possible the harmonic balancer seperated from the pulley. I've had that happen before. good way to test it is to make a new mark, and see if it moves. Mine would slowly spin all the way around and come back. Your shaft looks correct though.

I currently have the 70amp turbo alternator in my 280z converted to internally regulated, and it's just not enough juice for everything since I upgraded two dual electric fans ontop of all my other electronics. I've been reading about the GM swap, and I rather not cut thing. I also heard about doing this Maxima alternator swap, but search hasn't shown much information. Some say only the late 80's models work (90 amp), but require swapping the pulley off my 280zx alternator. Others say the 1995 model works (125 amp), but requires a different bracket or modifying yours and a pulley swap, but some say you just need to do a pulley swap. Can someone shed some more light on this for me? There doesn't seem to be a 100% write up on this, and I'd rater get the most power I could so that I have no charging problems ever.

how do those flush ones work exactly? do you put a threaded rod through it?

I just installed a 2 row aluminum radiator to replace my old 3 row stock, and I'm using vibration damping mounts, but they just seem to push the radiator too far out. these are the mounts here is my radiator mounted with them What other options do I have so I can get it closer to the original stock location?

Ah, thank you I can't use nuts because there is a gap with the thread.

Ok, the spark plugs are wet with gas, possible sign of running too rich which I'd suspect the AFM or fuel pressure regulator, most likely the afm though, to be the problem. What color are they? Black, White, Brown? Do they have any oil on the tip? Check your AFM wheel and see if the old glue has been removed and someone turned the wheel to run richer. If they didn't I'd break the glue and play with it. Here's a guide for tuning it. It's very simple. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/

I'm installion dual 12" electric fans so I need to replace the studs with bolts. What is the thread size on these? Been searching for awhile, and can not find it. Thanks

close thread

I'd check compression(and leak down) of cylinders, fuel pressure, tps, chts, afm, and shaft play on turbo. I'd also try an ecu you know has 0 problems just to rule that out. Also, have you pulled the spark plugs? How do they look? A boost leak wouldn't cause idle problems unless it was huge, it just wouldn't build boost that fast if at all.

Need the 3.545 speedo cog, I have a 3.7(blue) cog I can trade if you'd prefer that instead of cash.