Milenko2121

I'm rockin' a CXRacing Intercooler. It's working great pushing 12psi on the stock turbo and I hit full boost at 2400rpm. I am however using a Hallman Pro Boost Controller and GReddy RS BOV. I only went cheap on the parts that won't destroy my engine if they fail.

manifold obtained please close

one is a stub like that, the second is flush with the flange.

Hmm, I didn't see the ones for the turbo flange side. here is a shot of the broken stud.

Well, today sure has been a great day. I had two studs break off the turbo flange of my exhaust manifold. Any tips for removing these, and as to what the replacements are? Thanks

Shipped to 89178 Thanks,

Been trying to figure out the fitting on this waterneck for awhile, but can't find documentation on it. It's the L shaped fitting. I'm trying to delete it, and put my electronic fan temp sensor here, but I need to know the size before I can pull it out. Thanks, Mil

I'll buy used or if someone knows the part number that'd be great.

Damn low life better get whats coming to him/her. Sad to hear this.

you'll need a driveshaft from the T5 or have one made.

Your video is the reason I chose the XR-1 It just makes the L28ET sound so mean. There is a slight drone, but It hasn't bothered me too much.

I ran an open downpipe before I got my exhaust finished. I was using the MSA Downpipe, and It did get annoying after awhile, and got me a fix it ticket. After that, I finished up my exhaust. I researched for the best muffler that would give me that nice loud WOT sound, but low growl at idle to keep me in the clear. I decided on a full 3" mandrel back with a Borla XR-1 at the end.

I had a similar problem when installing a new master cylinder. It just wouldn't disengage at all no matter what I did. I was able to make the clutch slip for a split second going WOT in 5th and pressing the clutch down as fast as I could. In the end, I just lengthened the rod, and it's been perfect ever since.

Just finished up my intercooler install. 2.5" piping GReddy RS BoV CXRacing Intercooler (27"x12"x3") Hallman Pro RX MBC I can't weld, and the prices of welders in Vegas were not worth the trouble so I just bought an ebay piping kit and a few special couplers and bov pipe from silicone intakes.

I didn't mean to come off as rude. It's just MegaSquirt always seemed to be the cheap tuners solution for a good standalone unit, and when you're paying that much, It just seems to go back on the whole point of what DIY with MegaSquirt is about.

have you done a wet compression test?

Holy crap that's a high price for a stock setup.

Did you install z31 CAS upside down? Have you tested another working ECU? Where is your MAF placement? It needs to be at least 12 inches away from the turbo and not near bends to work effectively. The turbo will cause turbulence and the MAF will read wrong. You say you have intercooler piping; are you running draw through(before turbo) or blow through (after turbo) with your MAF?

Hello, My 1984 300zx with Power Steering recently stopped working out of nowhere. I've checked the power steering fluid and it's full. I have roughly 15degrees of L/R turning with the wheels on the ground, and it's very jerky to move, its like it goes from easy to hard back to easy really fast. If I jack the car up off the ground, I have full power steering working 100% and it acts like nothing is wrong. I don't hear any whining coming from the car while turning the power steering either. I have also attempted to pull out the bubbles by locking the wheels all the way left and right multiple times with no improvement. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mil

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Sorry to revive an old thread, but those who ran the blow-through maf, did you have to retune after this or was this on a stock ecu? I'm running a z31 ecu on my L28ET, and I just don't have room to route my intake with my A/C Compressor in the way. I'm debating going blow-through, but I'm holding off on Nistune for a little bit longer. I wanted to be sure I could run blow-through on a stock ECU.

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