Timecode

I'm going to post a video on You Tube and let you guys can see what I'm going through. Link coming soon.

I confirmed 40 psi with pump on, engine off. The car goes rich as soon as the fuel pressure ramps up excessively, otherwise it runs perfect afr's under 10 psi. If the tune was too rich I don't think I would see 11.5 afr's up to 10 psi. JWT don't mess with the Nissan ECU as much as people think. Most issues people have with their tune usually lies within their own cars setup, including mine. I won't rule out what you said at all. Thanks for the collective brainstorming all.

Let me clarify. TimZ, You are correct I meant to say 46 psi at 10 pounds of boost. It's an Aeromotive #13129, 1:1 FPR hooked up as per Aeromotive, fuel rail return piped to the FPR's inlet, output to the cars return line. The smaller of the two fuel lines was replaced with a line the same size, if not a little bigger than the bigger oem line, I need to measure next time I'm home. Nismo 555cc injectors, came with the JWT 550 kit. I haven't had time to see if the Z31 computer controls the pump or not but the pump is activated via a relay on the fire wall. No special pump boosters as far as I know. The pump screams, too. Not too loud with a full tank but at 10 gallons remaining, it gets loud. At half tank its quite loud. Its been like this for 2500+ miles though. I called Aeromotive and they said that the issue is weird. I think Chickenman is on the money, some restriction in the return that doesn't allow the bypass of enough fuel, but what. The 240z tanks oem feed/return lines are plugged and the whole 300zx turbo pump assembly was bolted to the topside of the gas tank with everything plumped to that. Chicken man, I could tap a mechanical gauge to the rail where the oem one was to confirm my readings are correct, which brand would you recommend? I don't think the gauge is inaccurate though. All engine components are tied to a vacuum block. Maxed out injectors would lean out the mixture but thats not happening, plus I get the issue right after 10 pounds of boost, nothing is maxed at those pressures. Turbo is a Turbonetics T3/T04b with a T04B compressor housing and V trim compressor wheel. It's a Ceramic ball bearing unit with a 57mm turbine wheel. The turbine housing is a .63 a/r.

Normal for a lot of boost though, that was 27 psi of boost. At idle fuel is at 29-30 psi. 40 psi at 10 psi. Just after that fuel pressure ramps up, +5 psi too much no matter what psi I stop at.

I'm experiencing a slight rich issue and need the groups help. Its an l28et running a JWT 550 kit in a 71 240z. Using the stock l28et fuel rail, Aeromotive FPR with psi gauge, upgraded to bigger fuel line (still using the oem return line), and an unknown in tank pump. Prior owner says its a 300zx turbo pump, but I have yet to drop the tank. I have seen it go to 65 psi with no pressure drop at all. 11.5 AFR until boost crosses the 10 psi mark, then fuel pressure shoots up 5 psi too much (relative to boost )and stays that way. At idle, fuel psi is correct. Cruising, it's correct. The problem shows up only after 10 psi of boost, thats when my AFR's go to 9.5-10.5. Myself and other can't see any smoke from the tail pipe during acceleration. I believe there is an restriction thats not allowing the fuel to return fast enough. Maybe the oem fuel rail? I don't see any pinches in the rail that would cause such a thing. Maybe its my setup. Any ideas where the restriction might be?

Wouldn't the springs effect squat more so than the damper? I know the damper makes a difference but it's mainly there to control the springs motion. The spring rate should decide how much it will compress. Correct?

My project.

Taking some cues from modern production cars I decided on directing air to the brake area versus full on ducts to the caliper/rotor. This setup suffers zero wear do to the lack of any articulation. My tests showed 70-100 degree reductions with mild to aggressive street driving. I have yet to see what benefits I will see on a road course. I used aluminum L bars cut down to needed lengths and steel duct straps. All mounted using factory mounting holes.

I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.

I found a solution!! I got a factory heat-shield and bought a really nice sticky heat-shield to put on the underside of it. When I got the sticky one ($50 for 2 sqft) it was so thin and cheap I figured I could make it myself so I whipped up some cheap heat shields that not only work, but work very well. I bought some 99 cent store 1/2" tall aluminum trays, they come in two packs I think. Then I pounded the edges flat with a rubber hammer, took 1 piece of soft fiberglass sheet and cut it a little smaller than the tray and put another flattened tray on top (a fiberglass sandwich with aluminum tray buns). Folded all the edges and hammered them down, folded again, hammered, folded, and hammer. Whats left is a rigid, light, pliable, and turns out quite durable heat shield that can be bolted any where. On my stove top, with the big burners at full blast, I recorded 330f temps on the bottom side and 80f max on the top side, even with over a minute of direct flame contact. They didn't discolor or suffer at all from the test. I bolted these heat-shields around the exhaust manifold (encapsulating it) and turbo. Before all this the car suffered a bad case of vapor lock. My intake manifold was too hot to touch after any type of driving but now the car starts up every time and my manifold is the temp of my intercooler after HARD driving. It only gets warm right next to the head now. I'm amazed! I accidentally cut the sticky shield incorrectly but nobody will ever see that.

The issue was an intermiten TPS. It would test fine on the car even after it was set correctly but after a short time down the road it failed. Little strange because after I set it, I opened and closed the throttle a bunch of times it still tested fine, started it up and a short drive later it failed again. I didn't open it up to see what was wrong because I had a spare that I threw on and it worked. So if you suffer from this issue don't trust your TPS 100%. I found I wired my wideband incorrectly so my reading were false. Sorry for the late response, figured this might help someone one day.

Don't mean to revive this thread but I figured this is the best place to post this. So after reading a gazillion suspension posts I'm not 100% on the setup I want to run first. It seems that what works for one person doesn't really work for others so I will take everyones opinions openly. I'm looking to achieve a tolerable street car that will really shine on big road course's in the Socal area. I'm asking for this groups personal recommendations on which springs I should run. I have the following pairs of springs to try (all are 10"/2.5"); 250lbs, 275lbs, 300lbs, and 350lbs. Here's my current setup: 1971 240z series 2, L28et with JWT 550HP kit. 225/50/16 BFG Rivals. Full interior, half cage, TTT front tri brace, rear strut bar, no visible rust anywhere. Tokiko Illuminas on sectioned struts 10"/2.5"/300lb front, 10"/2.5"/275lb rear. Z31 CLSD 3.7. 1" front bar, 15/16" rear bar both with semi-adjustable end links. Stock front brakes with rear disc conversion. Currently getting installed: Silvia S15 R200 helical lsd with full TTT rear end conversion, TTT front and rear coilovers (with roll center adjusters-front, lowered/corrected rear control arm mounts-rear), camber plates all around, and non-adjustable Bilstien sports. Willwood 4 piston front, 240sx rear brakes. Currently (old setup) the back end squats a ton when accelerating. It's a little bouncy on the street no matter the setting but considering the right rear is blown and the other dampers are on the same path, it handles really well. Hooks up quite well going straight and around the corners for 450ish rwhp. Around corners it's max grip is as good as my stock evo X on Pilot Super Sports but takes much more effort to do so, obviously. So which springs do you think I should try first? My gut says 300f 350r, but after reading everyones posts I'm leaning toward a much softer combo. I just think the rear will still squat too much with anything less than 300 lbs.

I'm a little surprised by the responses here. I come to this site often and the comments are usually helpful. Tony, get off the high horse man. You are our Guru. You shouldn't be schooling people on their car purchases. Telling people how to buy a car is good and all but I don't have enough time to learn EVERYTHING about every different car I buy. Was I suppose to ask the guy for a hundreds of photos so I can pick apart the car? I could barely get 15-20 good pics of the car from him. Turbo Z's get picked up quick and he didn't have to jump through hoops with me. He could just wait for the next local guy.I shopped and saved for 5 years for my Z. Never planned on buying one with an L-series engine. Found a super nice one. Flew to Minnesota from SoCal to buy it (had a free flight that was about to expire). The guy had people lined up to see it.. I got the car for such a good price, including shipping, it would have been a good deal with no engine at all. I also wasn't going to stay there for a week or wait for another couple years so I jumped on it. Anyone would have. Forged l28et with a Version 1 JWT kit, suspension, LSD, a turbo axles, the list goes on an on. I think I'll try and make this setup work. Thanks Newzed for the links but I am familiar with Jim Wolfs sites. I did say it was a 84 ecu or would you like the part number?. You'll notice no info on there site about this because it was an older version of there kit. I've been talking to Ben there, smart guy, and he's trying to help me figure it out. Says its a really old version but its still good. It had 420 cc injectors instead of 440cc. The MAF was a Z31 unit instead of the current Ford unit. They switched due to the Z31 units dying from the flow demands. I hope that's not the case with mine. Rejracer, I will need to check on the things you mentioned. The o2 is working and I have continuity at the ecu. TPS is working and I have continuity at the ecu. So next are the things you mentiond. Not sure if I'm misreading people but if the belittling can stop this thread could actually turn into something useful for others one day.

^ Not everyone that owns a Z knows everything about them. If the build was done 2-3 owners ago I think some info missing during a sale is to be expected. Plus who has a week to analyze the car they are about to purchase. Nobody is born with Z experience...except maybe you. Got to start somewhere.

I bought the car with the swap completed already. I'm just discovering the truth about what I truly have, parts wise, because the owner who sold it to me had no idea about the build. It was the owner before him that did the major work. Had I'd known that my computer came from a 84 I might have reconsidered the purchase. Ill try to get this setup working right before I go to standalone I think. It does go like stink still. I'll check the stuff you guys mentioned and post back.

The only videos I have show my license plate and I don't edit so I don't think I want to post it. It is kinda cool but I'm not really proud of it shooting flames and I want to get back to driving it. I don't think the cops like flames too much.

I have a 71 240z with a l28et running a 84 turbo z31 JWT ecu. My car currently shoots flames during overrun. They last for a few seconds during this time. The car runs and drives fine but the AFR's read 11-11.8 at idle, partial throttle cruising, and WOT. Every so often they jump to 14 during high vacuum but only for a split sec. JWT said check the throttle position switch and o2 sensor. I am away from home so I can't check now but thought I'd ask if anyone has had these issues before. The TPSwitch looked good last I checked and had continuity between the top two pins at idle position. I havent checked continuity at the ecu yet. O2 sensor seems correct, single wire 22mm unit. Im going to pick up a oem o2 just in case. Sounds like a loose conection to me though. Any thoughts?

For all that have bent their arms how did you do it? I've heard people breaking them when cold. Not sure if a torch will hurt the seals inside. Advice please!

The rod is adjustable but I want to know if I should heat it up before bending it or bend it cold. I don't want to put a torch to it and ruin the wastegate or snap the rod bending it cold.

I need to either bend my wastegate rod 15mm or come up with a solution to make it work. My new turbo elbow relocated the flapper arm location and it's off 15mm. Now the wastegate arm is at a small angle and it won't open properly. Apparently they need to be damn straight. I can't move the wastegate anywhere so this is my only option. I know they are $50 online but I'm looking for a cheap garage fix. Anybody have experience bending the arms? Should I heat it or try to bend it cold? Option #2

The bracket.

The results. It's just a loud as the old one at idle but very quiet under cruising conditions. No more freeway drone. City drivability has increased dramatically. I might ceramic coat the down pipe but it doesn't get that hot really. Maybe because its t304. Still have a wastegate problem ^.

Never saw or talked to a Sev. Unless its under new management and the place has cleaned up I would avoid the place all together. I think peoples exhausts are leaking because they are using the wrong hardware when installing there exhaust manifolds. Non-flared nuts and lock washers dont work.

Thanks. That exhaust leak sure was annoying. It was the worst sounding car on the road. I here exhaust leaks from a lot of Z's at the meets. Wonder if they are in the same boat I was. This is the first time I've had anybody touch any of my cars mechanically. I prefer to do things myself but with two kids now, and still being kinda new to the L series, an engine teardown in my garage wasn't happening. It is nice being in so cal but living cost and traffic blows.

Forgot to mention it but the angle of the waste gate arm is no good now so I need to bend it. Which do you think? Cold bend or torch it? Or if anyone knows of a screw on bent arm extension. I shopped but no luck.