utvolman99

Thanks Grumpy. That part number will come in handy!

The ford has a block off plate... That is what I was kind of expecting on the chevy as well! Okay, I still am having problems coming up with a "cam plug". I guess I'll go to the vendor. Autozone has no idea...

Okay, from my looking around the web it would seem that there is nothing up front that holds the cam in place? is the cam cut on an angle to keep the cam pressed to the rear of the engine? Even so, I still need to know the name of the plug looking thing that goes in the rear of the engine. Thanks

Okay, I am putting the finishing touches on my 355 build up. This is the first chevy Ive built so I am running into a stupid little problem. The cam design is different than a ford and I am kind of lost. 1. What holds the cam in from the front? I assumed that there would be a plate that bolts to the front of the block but there are no bolt holes, only 3 oil channels. 2. What is the plug that holds the cam from the back of the engine called? I need to pick on up but no one really knows what Im talking about. I have a reabuild manual but it doesnt cover either of these points? In short I guess I need to know what to do to install the camshaft. I really dont want to leave anything out. Thanks for answering a very stupid question.

I would look at a used WRX!! I have always been an American V8 fan and have driven both the mustang and the Fbody. They are both good cars and Im not knocking them or the people who drive them. Its just that here in the south in order to own one you are required to grow a mullet! Also, during the summer you are not allowed to wear a shirt while driving it and you must have a sun visor sticker across the windshield telling everyone what kind of car you drive. All joking aside. I think the turbo all weel drive would be kick A$$

I dont know about the sound but I WOULD make sure you have some good heat insulation! My every day driver in college was a 69 mustang that I had rebuilt. All it had on the floor was a carpet kit with a bit of backing. I was running a pretty hot 351W and headers. Your feet would get so hot you would sweet in the winter time! I really dont care about sound but Im going to put something down to keep the heat out!

If your just looking to be different you could try a new nissan 3.5 out of an altima, maxima or 350Z. That might not sound too different or exciting but I have yet to see one! That is an awsome little engine and with the popularity of the altima with the rice set the aftermarket will soon be booming! I would love to see this swap!

Now that you mention it that is a good point. I really dont know how much stress is on that area (and I am an engineer ) but I dont think its worth risking more work down the line. So welding it is. By the way there is only light surface rust on the firewall and frame rails so I should be okay there...

Well, you can fix that whole shifting too early thing... If you would rather have the auto for driving go that way. Put a little time into the 700R4 and it will shift just like you like it!

Carroll, your right about the auto for drag racing. Not just for faster shifting but for cosistancy. You would be hard pressed to find a sucessful street or footbrake class bracket racer who is running a manual. Since this is a daily driver thats not really a concern.

By the way, I am planning on running a Holley Blue pump. You can pick them up pretty cheap remanufactured on ebay.

That is what I was afrade of. I guess now I just need to decide if Im going to use A. Hard steel tubing (would rather not) B. Alluminum tubing (I know I will really need to hold that baby down to prevent cracking) C. SS hose (easy but expensive!) Also, do I need a return line? I wouldnt think so, right?

Welcome to my world! I was in the very same boat your in. I decided to go with the 700R4 but only because I will be pushing 450hp. An ordinary T-5 should handle 300HP. If I were you though I would spend some time looking for a World Class T-5. They came on the later model 3ed generation camaros and firebirds equipped with a 350. One thing to keep in mind is that if you decide to up the HP down the road the T-5 could be your limiting factor!

Denny, is there anything you dont have??

Sounds sweet dude, dont let the man get you down!

Its also in Canada!!

I have also been told that I could just glue the patch in. Most body shops now use glue for quarter pannels and new tops. My brother just replaced the top on a jeep GC and simply guled it on... You would have to use a good seam sealer to make sure no moisture got in there though.

I may try to butt weld it. It will just be much harder to make the patch. What gauge sheet metal are you using?

Okay, I now have a gaping hole where my battery tray used to be. This weekend I am planning on patching the hole and need some advice. I will be moving the battery to the hatch area so I dont have to worry about that. I am very new to welding (read first time). I have a small mig welder and would like to keep this as simple as possible. I was planning on... 1. Cutting and bending a patch that will roughly fit the hole 2. using sheet metal screws to hold the patch in place 3. welding the overlapping seams on the top and the bottom Is it okay to do a lap weld? would a butt weld be easier? could I solid weld the top seam, spot weld the bottom them follow with seam sealer? Sorry for all the questions any help would be great!

Okay, I know that a lot of you guys have ran all new fuel line for your Z conversions. I would really like to get around that if I could but at the same time I want to make sure that I have plenty of liquid refreshment for my engine. I will be running a Holley 750 on a 450 hp, 6000 RPM 355 chevy. I was really hoping to install an aftermarket fuel pump/filter and just plumb it into the old line with braided hose. Will the old line be too small?

I dont really know about the quality but you can go to autozone and get a double flaring tool and a tube bender on loan for free. You just pay a deposit and when you bring them back they give you your money and tax back. That is what Im planning on doing for my breaks and fuel lines.

Talk about a car that would help you get the ladies clothes off!! I always thought my old 69 mustang was good for that but I think he has me beat!

I am going through the same thing right now on my 73. Only I am just trying to get all the lines out of the way in the engine compartment so that I can clean up some surface rust and paint. I dont understand how a line wrench can strip the fitting so easily. They are pretty cheap wrenches (autozone) but they should still do the trick. I have no knowledge when it comes to running brake lines. How important is it that the new line is exactly the same length as the old one? I would think that the porportioning valve is set up a little different to compensate for the longer line to the passenger side? Any help would be great!

240Zduz10s, I like you sig. My Dad would always say that you can have any two of the three... Fast and cheap will not be reliable Cheap and reliable will not be fast Fast and reliable will not be cheap!

Im a ME. I work as a Six Sigma Black Belt for DuPont in New Johnsonville, TN