Phantom

If you have actual quotes on the components then you have a real "cost'. If they are guesstimates then get real pricing. Pop N Wood hit it right on the nose - the cost of any conversion is totally subject to the specific conversion and abilities of the individual. If you want an inexpensive conversion do it yourself with salvage yard components. Just be prepared to do it over again since you'll have equipment with unknown history. Look at what Norm the SU Dude has done with JY parts. Do your homework carefully. Decide exactly what you want to do with the car, determine the most reasonalble order to do it in, and then get exact costs for each component/activity. Then double it and you'll be close.

My 390 flywheel HP LS1 flexes the windshield frame on my '77 280Z enough that I can't keep it sealed. No big deal on a track-only car but a royal PITA for a daily driver - especially if you live somewhere it rains more than occaisionally. The R200 should hold up fine up through 450 ft-lbs of torque but I'd start to worry about the half-shafts and their universals. Under good conditions they'll hold up OK but the Z is prone to severe wheel hop when digging off the line and that will break them. I know.

Good name for the team!

So David, Did you put the Nismo shifter insignia on there just to confuse people as to where reverse is? Bill

Having lived through the 11 months that JCI mucked around with my car developing the kit I can confirm that it is, in deed, well engineered. A lot of thought and trial-and-error went into each componenet to ensure that it not only did what it was supposed to do but didn't cause a problem somewhere else. Four years and 25,000+ miles now and everything is still solid.

Steve, All good points. You've certainly identified one of the problems we get into on any upgrade - the domino effect - which need sto be carefuylly considered before starting any upgrade. Kind of like playing chess and thinking ahead several moves. However - if the "strangled" unit provides satisfactorily improved cooling then maybe some of that extra work isn't necessary. The worst case that can happen by not upgrading the wiring circuit is that the fuse that protects the original circuit will blow more often if it actually does get overloaded. If that does happen routinely then, by all means, do the upgrades. Squirrel cage fans are notorious for the low pressure they can generate so it's probable that the OEM ducting, dampeners, etc. will put enough back pressure on the system that the fan won't be able to develop full flow and therefore full amp draw. Spot - while I'm on a thread I know you're following - I've got a bunch of brown carpet I bought for my Z when it had a brown interior and I never installed it. Do you want it?

Don't wait to long or I'll have departed in a northerly direction before you get here!

You can also use the vinyl trim molding used between kitchen cabinets and the floor. I used it on my first Z and it worked great. It's stiffer than the polyethylene lawn edging.

Phil - how did you attach the blower to the housing? It looks like the bolt holes are outside the housing outer diameter except on the discharge area. Please keep us posted on results. If it works well in your car it ought to work maybe even better in mine with all the insulation I have. Good find! Bill

Larry, Come to the DFW area!! Please!!! I'll put you up, I'll feed you, I'll let you drive my car - well, maybe on the last one.

Not the same car but nearly the same color!http://www.zcar.com/month/2006/02/

It seems you are a bit sensitive about being asked to search. Perhaps it is because you've been asked to do that before? (I did a search). In the future, if you have already searched, I would suggest you preface your post with something like: "I've searched but not found what I needed on...." We're here to help but want to know that individuals make an attempt to help themselves first so the same posts don't get repeated over and over and over. You are correct that there is little weight distribution information on the LT1/LQ4. Based on your number of an additional 100 lbs, and the data I gathered on my 280Z, my car - with that engine would weigh in around 1475 on the nose and 1455 on the tail. That is assuming a 75% front, 25% weight distribution for the engine weight. Move the battery to the back and you could achieve 50/50 on the car - until you get in it. The drivers weight is distributed 25% front/75% rear (information in another one of my posts) which would then have the car tail heavy. You will also note that both the engine and the fuel tank are passenger side biased which makes the passenger side of the car heavy - until the driver gets in.

My point is that I have already posted weight distribution for my 280 - with the L28, with the LS1/T56, and then with other mods. Sorry for not being absolutely clear about that. Try searching in the Chevy V8 area under LS1/T56 updates. It's also in some other forums. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113156&highlight=ls1+weight

Plus, in NA form, the 82/83 have a head design that delivers about the same HP as the earlier L28's but move the max torque down to 3,000 RPM from about 4,500. Significant improvement in throttle response. Also the 81-83 5-spds have the best gearing to mate with the 3.90:1 R200 for overall daily driving performance. Other options might be better if you are planning a car that is primarily for the track. Sounds like you have some more thinking and searching to do. Since you have an L24 you could get yourself a Diesel crank (L28D), use the L24 connecting rods, and build yourself a stroker. Put in a better cam, better intake, headers & exhaust and call it good for a while.

You need to search a bit on weights. I've posted pretty complete information at least twice now.

Basements sound attractive - that's where I would retreat to during the summers when I was a kid. Never got above 72°F down there. do have to ensure they're built right though so that water doesn't become a problem. It appears that housing is actually a bit more expensive up there than in Arlington. I can get homes all day long for $80-95/sqft down here while it looks like they are running $100-125/sqft up there. I'm sure the basement contributes to that some. I thought I remembered the power tour terminating up there next year. That is quite an event. I remember the year it started in Arlington. The more I thought about it the more I'm convinced the car will be fine. If nothing else the computer controlled LS1 will be able to blow away the emission standards required for '77 vehicles. If I remember right it was nearly 750 ppm on HC and other relatively high numbers for CO and NX. No news yet so the move is definitely not a sure thing at this point - I may be going to Massachusetts - or Pennsylvania - or central Washington - or nowhere at this point. It depends on the offer(s).

The car has an OBDII port. Would they possibly just plug into that and run the standard OBDII style analysis like they do on the new cars? If so, mine will pass with no problem. It made it through one before but then the guy deliberately looked under the car for the catalytic converters. Oops:evil:

Crap!! Bummer about the salt. No way my baby is going out on a wet road in the winter then. I drove in the snow for years in Idaho with no salt or sand and on bias ply tires to boot. Carried a set of chains in case I got stuck but only had to use them in parking lots - go figure. We'll see what happens with the job search. I had a position in Idaho nailed down back in June and then a local walked in off the street that enable the company to avoid the cost of moving me and paying a head-hunter fee. Can't say I blame them.

In 20-30 years not sure about much 'cept my wheelchair will be faster than yours!

David, Nope, but malls are almost as important as air for Chris. I've reached the end of my rope with my current employer - the rant would be pages if I started. Also tired of the months of ridiculous heat - time to move.

I walked into a shop in East Fort Worth a couple weeks ago. They were working on four cars, all with LSX conversions. I remeber three. One was a gen 1 camearo with an LS1, a mid-60's chevelle with an LS1, and a C-3 Corvette with an LS7. All were new crate engines. The Z felt right at home.

I'm currently running 215/55-16 tires (26" diameter) and they are very close to the fender in the front and, with 0 offset, I actually had to 'clearance' the inside of the fender lip in the rear to keep them from rubbing. A 225/55-17 would be even taller and wider than the 16's. I think you'll be in for an unpleasant experience if you go that tall. You need to keep your tire diameter down around 26" or plan on doing some significant body work.

David - helpful as always:flamedevi . I'm thinking about a hybrid Z halftrack - tracks in the back and ski's on the front. That would be a new one! Steve - yeah - I heard all about the brat king while I was there last weekend. Makes me wonder when that is the big news. Biggest concern right now would be where to live in the area. Wife saw a house she really liked except for two ittle problems - 1 - it wasn't for sale, and - 2 - it probably was about a million bucks if it were for sale. The lake front is beautiful, the downtown strip looks nice but also looks kind of not visited that much, the mall was scary with all the empty spots where stores used to be. I grew up in a small town so that doesn't worry me all that much but it sort of freaked out my wife who is very social and a shopper extrodinaire. Do they salt the roads during the winter? If they don't I can see my Z being on the street any day the roads are clear enough to find asphalt. Otherwise, I need to find a rusted out 4wd something. What are the inspection/emission laws like? Will the Z grandfather like it does in Texas by being over 25 years old?