Phantom

Something needs to be modified then. I'm running 311 at the rear wheels in a 3,000 lb 280Z with street tires and turning a 12.9@110. The best I've ever gotten is a 2 second 60' which gave me the above run. You should have a .4 advantage on me in weight alone but you should also gain with the slicks. Are you running automatic or manual? What size tires? What ratio differential? On another thread on this website I believe it is MAS280 had a '95 corvette with an LT1 / 4L60E combination with 320 rwhp running an 11.81 quarter. A 240 at 2500 lbs ought to be able to equal that at 300.

Lone Star 1 was running mid 12's with a stock LS1 in a 240Z with the 4L60E tranny on street radials. Zfan was down in the 11's with his 383. I think you'll need a bit more than 300 rwhp to get into the 11's with the 240 - depending on how much you've stripped it down. What are you looking at for differential gearing and what size slicks are you planning on running? If you're planning on running a slick about 26" tall then a 3.70 LSD would work pretty good. If you go with a shorter tire you may want a 3.54 or 3.36.

Interesting - ex naval aviator here. I'll be in Pensacola the Week of May 15th for some R&R with the family. Used to hassle with OV-10 pilots all the time when I was training at Whiting Field. BTW - if the car has been sitting for 3 years you also need to drop the fuel tank, inspect it, and probably clean a lot of rust & crap out of it. Then new fuel lines & filters.

I've looked extensively at the Arizona Z Car brake offerings and they are impressive. I've also looked at Modern Motorports and JSK Innovations (now defunct). My goal included daily driving the majority of my time so a functional e-brake was a must. I didn't want to depend on a line lock. For that reason I went with Willwood Superlites on the front (JSK or Arizona Z car) and the Modern Motorsport 240SX/300ZX conversion on the rear. Yes, the parts had to be sourced from all over but I got lists and recommendations from the adapter suppliers and it all went very smoothly. Don't forget that you'll need the ZX master cylinder if you don't already have it. I tried the system without it and it is not a happy place.

David!! You're not trying to buy yet another car?!? I would think the two sets of twins you have would be enough!

Are you running CV's or universals on your rear half-shafts? I had a similar problem along with noise & vibration in the rear. Turned out to be a drivers side universal with a chunk missing. Replaced now and all the problems have gone away. Still don't know why the missing chunk would cause the hopping senstaion and oversteer but those symptoms disappeared with the noise & vibration when the universal was replaced. Go figure.

That looks almost like a clone of the system I'm running. 2 1/2" dual pipes to a 'X' pipe right at the back of the T56 then continuing on the drivers side out past the half-moon cut-out provided for the stock exhaust - the passenger side running past the rear suspension with a "frame clearance tube' section and then over to join with the drivers side into a dual 2 1/2" inlet magnaflow muffler with a single 2 1/2" outlet. BTW - Excellent write-up and photos on the CV conversion!

I've had both. My 340 'Cuda was carb'd, as well as many other vehicles I've owned. Obviously all my Z's have been FI. I'll even take the FI of the old L28 over a carb just because of the reliability and that it stays 'tuned' when you have significant elevation or weather changes. I think the LS1 is a prime example of what a good FI/electronic ignition car can do. In stock factory form it makes equal or better HP than the carb'd sbc's and better fuel economy. The two go hand-in-hand. A better fuel management & spark control system will provide more efficient and complete fuel usage which will equate to more hp and better fuel economy. We can talk exceptions all day long but for a set and leave alone system you can't beat FI & electronic ignition.

Oops -misunderstanding - The dryer removes moisture from the refrigerant. I'm talking about the moisture that will condense out of the air when it cools coming across the coil. You have to have a condensate drain on the system to drain that water to outside the car. Surely this has one to handle that and the only concern VA has is the possibility of moisutre also condensing on the outside of the cold housing.

Crap! - was he saying that the system doesn't have a way to drain off condensate - or - that he's just worried that the housing will have condensation problems? If it's the latter then a little judiciously applied insulation to th eoutside of the housing will take care of that. If it's the former - you better not run any fresh air or you'll have a wet, stinky carpet!

Unless you're like me. I always click on the 'new posts' part of the control panel since I'm basically lazy and don't want to search through all the forums.

I'll sell you mine - $30K.

If you go to my album on this site you'll see some photos of the motor mounts. Not the best, but they are there. Previous discussion I've had with John (JCI) is that he will sell the motor & transmission mounts separately but not the rest unless you buy the motor and transmission mounts. His reason is that the rest may not work if the engine/tranny is not placed where his mounts place them with the other components being designed around that location. YOu may want to contact him again.

Big Phil - I beat you to the hood cable at All Z's. I pulled a nice one about three weeks ago. That's what is nice about living ony 5 minutes from Jerry's yard. Now if I could just get him to stock some LS1 stuff!

See avatar.

Their website is www.streetmachineclub.com. I'm not certain that you can access anything on the website without a membership which will, of course, serve to frustrate you even further. It's a decent magazine primarily aimed at muscle & classic car guys. Most of them haven't gotten past carb's yet but some are feebly attempting. My little Z has really freaked a few of them out forcing a revamping of their opinions a bit. If anyone is interested in the intake and throttle body comparison I can go into a bit more detail. It ws nice to get the feedback on the MSD coil packs before running out and dropping a wad of cash for what would be just a cosmetic improvement for my car. I can get the plastic head covers for justa wee bit less than that.

Another thing I've heard of people doing is welding clips to the roof and actually attachng the roll bar to the roof.

PM sent. The down side is that I'll be driving the Suburban because the upside is that I'll be with my whole family. Contemplated towing the Z just to terrorize the area but cost is too much and wife would probably freak at the idea.

See this link: http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/

1974 was the first year for smogged motors in the US - other than CA of course. You should be able to sell the miles of vacuum hose for what you paid for the car. For the mentally dyslexic and brain-to-finger typing challenged: Lemons = Lemans brian = brain road = rode We'll get there eventually.

Q45 - do a search under R230 differentials and you'll find references to installations using them from the 'Q'.

Good thing you did it during the winter. another few months and your car would have blended into the background! Terrain looks familiar. I go through Mobile all the time on my way to Pensacola. I'll be going through again this May on the way to a week on Perdidio Key. Wife is from P'cola plus I have to make my regular visit to the Naval Air Museum.

I recently read on article in this magazine on modding the LS1 engine and it prompted me to write them an email. I've copied it in here for comments. You'll have to start at the bottom to follow the timeline. From: "editors@streetmachineclub" Save Address ReminderTo: Subject: RE: LS1 Article CommentsDate: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:41:08 +0000 [View Source] Bill, Considering the effectiveness of the stock coil packs and DIS as a whole, the MSD coil packs won’t be worth much RWHP. If you were running a blower or some other power adder, they could offer improved spark capability under higher cylinder pressures than the stock units. But, in your case, I couldn’t justify them. They do look great, though… The purpose of the article has been served. You learned what you need, and what you don’t. The factory intakes are well designed and make good use of modern technology from the way they flow air to the material they’re made of. All they need is a cam and maybe a throttle body to really shine. We knew this going in, but the dyno numbers prove it without question. TPIS has been researching camshafts for many applications and I’m sure they’ll have one that’d be perfect for you- maybe a step down from the one we tested. They’ll also know how to dial in your ECM to work seamlessly with the cam they sell, as they’ve done much research on this. We chose to work with them for this purpose. They make great use of the really good factory parts until a client really wants to make some crazy power, and they’ve got a handle on that, too. But coordinating the “hard†parts (like cams) with software (especially the factory software, which is quite good) is something few others have even tried. TPIS has perfected it, and this drew us to work with them on the story as we presented it. It doesn’t take much to really let the LS1 shine, and you don’t have to go through the entire engine or purchase an expensive aftermarket harness and computer to see these benefits. We thought it would make for a great story, and it seems you agree. There’s at least another 50-75 RWHP waiting for you in that engine…now you know how to get it, and it won’t require a second mortgage or a complete teardown to find. Good Luck with it Bill. Thanks for the note, and I’m glad we could be of some assistance. It’s what we’re striving to do as a Club, and as a Club magazine. Scott Parkhurst Editor Street Thunder Magazine From: zedshed@att.net [mailto:zedshed@att.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:58 AM To: editors@streetmachineclub Subject: RE: LS1 Article Comments Scott, Thank you for your reply. My specific reason for the questions is that I'm running a '98 LS1 out of a Z28 Camaro in my 1977 Datsun 280Z. It is bone stock except for an edited ECU, K&N intake and headers - all of which were requied to do the install. It dyno'd at 311 RWHP & 326 LB-ft of torque flowing through a single 2 1/2" exhaust & headers with 1 1/2" primaries. Assumining a 15% drivetrain loss that puts it right there with the stock numbers you obtained. It only has 24,000 miles on it at this time. What I really walked away from the article was the realization that the bang-for-the-buck is in the cam. The LSA on the one you used is a bit more aggressive than what I've been considering, 113 vs 114, but otherwise very similar. I'm also not considering spinning mine over 6,500 rpm so I probably won't be doing any bottom end work. Intake wise I can't see spending money on anything other than the Z06 intake & throttle body. If I shop them carefully used I just can't justify the extra for the other options. Have you had an opportunity to evaluate the MSD coil packs since the article? I looked inot them. They are very pretty and talk performance but, without some good numbers, I'm not about to invest $600. Back to the bang-for-your-buck cam investment. My considerations are all tempered by the fact that my car is a 'daily driver', not a track car. It has been on the Texas Motorplex at Ennis, Texas and also the Texas Motor Speedway outside Fort Worth and acquitted itself very well in each case - but - it's real duty is taking me to and from work each day - and enabling me to really enjoy the commute! Sincerely, Bill Davis Arlington, TX -------------- Original message from "editors@streetmachineclub" : -------------- Bill- I’ve answered your questions in the order they were received… 1) How were the HP and torque numbers obtained? We dyno tested the engine on a SuperFlow dynamometer at TPI Specialties. 2) I assume these are 'flywheel' numbers (SAE net) rather than wheel HP numbers? That is correct- the Dyno measures power at the engine’s flywheel. 3) Could you have included the retail cost of the individual items? That is always an important consideration in any upgrade. Since many of the parts were factory units, we did not include retail prices. The market for used factory parts always offers a significant discount over dealer prices, and we expected the factory parts would be obtained by readers as “used.†The aftermarket parts prices tend to vary from retailer to retailer, and year to year. We hoped that by sharing results, readers could decide if the parts combinations were right for them. 4) Was the engine a 'crate' engine or was it pulled from an F-body or C5? If a crate engine, was it from GM? It was pulled from a 2001 Camaro SS. It is a heavily “used†engine and has not been fully rebuilt. The upgrades we discussed in the sidebar were the only alterations from “stock.†5) In your recommended upgrades for durability you never mentioned heads. Stock LS1 valve trains aren't up to 7,000 rpm redlines, are they? Otherwise, why the 6,000 rpm rev limiter on F-bodies? The factory 6,000 rpm redline is due to camshaft design and computer programming. Since we’d upgraded the camshaft and we had control of the programming, we increased the rpm redline. The stock valvetrain was in place. 6) Your photo shows MSD coil packs on the engine - were they used or the stock GM coil packs? The tests were done with stock coil packs. We did not receive the MSD coil packs in time for our testing, and barely got them in time for our photo shoot. They are very new! If we’d have used them in testing, we would have said so. 7) I've heard that the '97 & 98 LS1's had stronger connecting rod bolts than the later models which would eliminate the need for that upgrade on those engines? No. To safely live in the 500-plus horsepower range, the upgrade to ARP rod bolts is still strongly recommended. Thanks Bill! I hope this help ya! ~SP~ Scott Parkhurst Editor Street Thunder Magazine From: zedshed@att.net [mailto:zedshed@att.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 9:21 AM To: editors@streetmachineclub Subject: Article Comments I really enjoyed the techanical articles in the January/February issue of Street Thunder that I received yesterday. I was especially interested in the LS1 intake comparison since that's what I'm running in my Datsun 280Z. I'm sure the content of the article was limited by the space available so there are several questions that I have. 1) How were the HP & torque numbers obtained? 2) I assume these are 'flywheel' numbers (SAE net) rather than wheel HP numbers? 3) Could you have included the retail cost of the individual items? That is always an important considerationin any upgrade. 4) Was the engine a 'crate' engine or was it pulled from an Fbody or C5? If a crate engine was it from GM? 5) In your recommended upgrades for durability you never mentioned heads. Stock LS1 valve trains aren't up to 7,000 RPM redlines, are they? Otherwise, why the 6,000 RPM rev limiter on Fbodies? 6) Your photo shows MSD coil packs on the engine - were they used or the stock GM coil packs? 7) I've heard that the '97 & 98 LS1's had stronger connecting rod bolts than the later models which would eliminate the need for that upgrade on those engines? Sincerely, Bill Davis

After paging down my heart has restarted. Mike - in my family we don't get even for things like this - we get ahead! My wife and sons have an entirely unique definition of escalation! I'm patient - it will come!

Looking good. Keep the updates coming!