Heroez

Thank you for the clarification Tony. This information will allow others to follow the reasoning I have put forth. Leon, I agree that there is bad information to be found. There is also good information. We have to examine credibility to determine which is which. I did not want to digress to confrontational dialogue. I do not want to lose your input. Just because some information is not usual does not make it incorrect. No matter how much we think we know, there is always room to learn. While I gather and organize information for my next post. Would anyone like to talk about the issue of timing, timing advance, or recurved distributors? This is an important aspect of using the triple carburetors. What is the best solution? What have you found to give the best results?

Here are some key parts that set up the mixture in this simplified diagram. 5- Main Jet. 6- Idle Jet. 7- Pump Jet. 9- Emulsion Tube. 11- Air Corrector Jet.

That is unfortunate. Thank you for adding your experiences. Any additional info would be very welcome.

"Race dedicated" is poor wording choice on my part. Lets just say the Weber DCOE was designed for race application. Dellorto and Mikuni of similar type are a better choice for vehicles driven around town and on the street as well as the track. That is if you consider greater gas mileage without a compromise in power "better." The point of this thread is informational, not confrontational. Not to defend one over another or insult those who chose Webers. So if you are looking for an arguement, you are barking up the wrong tree.

Here is a photo of them with the inlet manifold, Z car linkage, and some air cleaners. The manifold manufacturer is unknown to me at this time. The air cleaners have Bap Geon, Warneford Design on the sticker. A fitting for the PCV system is attached to the middle air cleaner. In this photo you can see a rigid copper wire connecting each carburetor. The wire connects their choke mechanism. These are DHLA 40, not 40E or later versions. If the air cleaner is removed you can look down into the front and see the main venturi. It will have a number engraved which is the size of the choke. Mine say 30. Never look into the front of the carburetor while the engine is running. If you have to, use a mirror and keep yourself at an angle. At the top front of the carburetor there is a plate with a number, just to the left of center. Mine says, R5232 on each. On the left rear, near where they attach to the Inlet manifold you will find the model number. Mine says, DHLA 40. These are considered perfectly matched. Because several versions were made, you want to make sure your carburetors are all the same type. I have read that the same model with close number plates are a good match. You want to avoid mixing DHLA 40 with DHLA 40E, and such.

I picked up a set of 3 Dellorto DHLA 40 carburetors. They came with an inlet manifold, linkage for, and air filters. It was a package deal that also included an extra intake manifold with linkage that is for another type of carburetor I think. I have always liked the way they look, and they add performance. Outdated compared to ITBs and EFI, yet I still like the mechanical carburetors. I chose to buy the Dellorto DHLA because of old research I did at the interest phase. Much like a person that would choose Mikuni, I was not looking for a race dedicated part such as Weber DCOE. I wanted to use something for a car driven on the street. When I finally saw the Dellorto set for sale at a good price, I could not pass it up. I found part suppliers, some diagrams and basic info that is helpful. Unfortunately, searches here and from Google do not give information in depth in how to tune triple Dellortos. I have found guides to tune dual Dellortos. Many of the same tips apply such as to balance them by finding the weakest barrel and reduce the others to match it and so forth. I have seen a book about how to tune them and I will likely get that book soon. There is just not much information available for DHLA Dellorto triples on a Z car. I would like to invite people out there to share information on Dellorto DHLA carburetors if they have experience with them, or any other factual information to share. If you have advice, tips, or info for me or others who are starting an adventure with triples, it would also help. Next time someone searches, maybe there will be some helpful information here to read. I will post in this thread from time to time as more information arises.

Because Weber's are a dedicated race application part. I'm driving my car on the street, so I want something that is more than idle and WOT. Found a set. Thanks anyway!

Ok. I may pick up couple VG distributors to dissect and learn on before I dig into mine. I hadn't had time to do much of anything beyond a visual inspection and look at diagrams. The weekend is where I can get time to look into EMI and bad parts. Thanks again.

Its an ongoing battle, what is acceptable and what isn't. Unfortunately it's never just black and white. I think there is a bad combination of lazy people asking to be spoon fed, and elitists that get their rocks off by standing on the backs of others. Thankfully most here don't fall into either side and we can share and learn from each other. I'm here to learn, and help others when I am able. The majority of people I see here are like that. We also have very knowledgeable people that enjoy helping others, and members here have unselfishly went far beyond any expectations to help me. Some people just offered moral support, and it was just as helpful as technical info at times to have that human element. So while you are thinking about what you dislike on here, take an equal amount of time to think of the things you do like. Do not become unbalanced in your thinking. Imbalance leads to sickness.

I put a bug screen behind a stock grill on my early 260 with chrome bumpers. I have a spare chrome Peterbuilt grill if anyone feels like getting creative.

I have some, but they are black plastic like ABS. Mounts with double sided tape. I put a mounted picture up at zcar.com so maybe search there too. Got them for next to nothing at a parts yard. I think the topic was called - score at the parts yard.

Looking for triple Dellortos. Let me know what you have. Thanks.

Alright, thanks guys. I'm going to look into those possibilities. If I need replacement parts, are all vg30e CAS parts the same, or do I look for certain years. 84-90, or just any VG30e will work?

Hello Z guys. I've been trying to track down a problem with a 1983 turbo for a year and a half now, and finally got a clue that could lead me to the fix. So I'm out there on the battlefield and I'm using an inductive timing light to check the timing. At idle I get a nice even strobe rhythm. When I rev the engine to 2,000 or so a stumble appears and the engine runs rough, sometimes backfires. During that stumble, the strobe from the timing light is missing some flashes, like the spark isnt being shot through the wire every time it should. All 6 wires act similar, with the spark signal missing once in a while, and not being steady during the stumble. Unfortunately the FSM doesn't go into detail in testing the turbo distributor or related parts. Last year I bought a new aftermarket cap and rotor as part of a tune up campaign. Nissan didn't have any caps. It didn't help. ECU has been verified as good. My question is, what parts should I be looking at, testing, replacing? I know the CAS, igniter, are involved in the spark. I just don't know if there are tests for them, or just replacing them is the only option or what. Is there anything else that may be to blame for the unsteady spark? Maybe a bad distributor?

I've noticed a lot of early S30s native to Georgia had white interior, it helps combat that oven feeling.

Can we replicate the eccs analyzer?

John, I am the master of disaster. I'm the reason Murphy's law exists. So I'm trying to circumvent the impending disaster. If this was a generic plentiful z r180, sure, full speed ahead. I don't come across these very often, and with me holding the tools it is high risk. I'm willing to try it, but only if I practiced on a different r180 first. But something lucky happened. Now I need your wisdom, and the wisdom of the members here. I have located a needle in the haystack... First generation Maxima CV axles for sale! I also ran into a problem. I saw a build thread saying the maxima cv axles are too short to fit a S30. I thought the maxima axles were the key according to other posts. So we have conflicting information. Does anyone have information to share about clip in CV axles that will help me?

Searching archives I came across a thread that had clip in r180 cv axles. I'm having trouble finding more info on this. I would really like to make, or locate some of those. Parts from a first generation maxima were used. I think the thread said the turbo cv axle adapter was used at the wheel end, and the other end was 25 spline clip in! That is awesome! Anyone have some info on this?

Its so much simpler to swap in a 4.11 r180 because your going from r180 to r180. The 720 4.11 r180 uses bolt in axles like your z. The 200sx r180 requires clip in axles or a button swap from your old r180. Though I HIGHLY recommend not altering the r180. When you start taking it apart you have to assemble it with tolerances and great care. See how I messed up by removing the side retainers in my thread, 4.11 r180 problem. I likely ruined it by my ignorance.

Hey. I'm looking for the clip in axles to work with the newer type r180. I'm trying to put the 200sx r180 in a early 260z or a r180 equipped 280zx without having to disassemble my old r180 and swap the bolt in axle button. Let me know if you have some. I'm open to stub axles, but would love cv axles! Thank you.

I found a driveline shop. 75 bucks to have it checked out. Another 75 or more to have it shimmed or more. Beta motorsports said a cross shaft has to come out to install the buttons. Its looking like a lost cause at this point. I wish the FAQ would have mentioned you have to be a driveline specialist to install the buttons correctly.

I got it from a parts yard and the odometer read 137xxx miles. Reshimmed huh? Would I turn to a machine shop or a specialty shop? I was going to put the 'button' in it from the older style r180 so I could bolt my 260z yoke into it. Would you happen to know if the side gears have to come out to install that button?

The parts I removed were the ones on the side with 5 bolts. I don't have specialty tools, so if the tolerances have to be adjusted I will have to take it to a shop. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

So I found a 4.11 R180 to swap into my 260z. When I pulled it, I dropped it on accident and dirt got in the side bearings. I took the side retainers off and cleaned them really good. When I went to put it back together I started thinking that I may have messed up big time by removing the side retainers because of the tolerances involved. My hands were working faster than my head. I was so worried about the dirt and sand that I lost the bigger picture.I don't have a 200sx manual to check yet, but from the Z manual it looks like I may have to set the backlash? because I removed those parts?

With that output the stock exhaust manifold wouldnt be restricting and would reduce under the hood temperatures. The header will radiate heat much easier. The 632 header is the worst design I've ever seen. Low hanging, bad flowing junk. To give you a picture of their real value, I was given some for free, and I put them to their best use: A curiosity hanging on a wall. Something to look at once in a while and chuckle. I have a mn47 too, so I like to see what people say. One day I will put it to use.