kaito

30mm Isn't so small, Its 1.181 inches which is just a 16th of an inch under a quarter of an inch. Most everyone sections betweeen 1 and 2 inches, usually around 1 and 1/2 inches if Im not mistaken. I only have maybe a half of an inch worth of spacer under my front strut tubes till the cartridge wont fit anymore. How much do you usually section struts and what cartridges do you usually use if you dont mind me asking. Im just starting to realize that spring rates, strut cartridge type, spring perch position and other like variables can make a guy feel overwhelmed when trying to do something that is importnat like holding a car up at high speeds. Sorry if im coming off as rude, Im just trying to learn more. There is so much about cars that people dont even give much thought to especially a car as simple as the early z cars.

I'm pretty sure the calipers from your link are from an 88 maxima with the 3 liter vg30e engine. I bought his kit and when I asked him what pads to get he said 88. His kit is nice but I haven't used it yet. Just installed on the rear end. I can't say for sure but it looks like he just end milled the 88 brackets also. He has his kits on craigslist all the time. Search datsun in San Diego and call him up. He's cool like that.

So in my quest to find out if I did anything wrong I did some research to compare my strut part numbers (bz3125, and bz3038)with the most commonly used part numbers (bz3099 and bz3015). I was trying to find out what the actual body height differences of each of these struts was and I actually called the toll free hotline on the tokico website. The gentleman told me their tech was gone for the day but took my part numbers down and said they would call me back tommorow. They kept their promise and at 7:30 the next morning the tech gave me the info I asked for. He was very enthusiastic and gave me much more info than I originally asked for. The reason I went through the trouble of finding this out was because I was worried the struts recommended to me by TTT were taller than the ones more commonly used. It now looks like I may just have the car too low and I plan on sectioning my strut so that I dont have spacers in the bottom which should yield me another 1/2 inch or so. Then Ill get the rest of the distance I want by using camber plates in the front. I dont forsee this problem happening on the rear though so I should be good to go. Anyways on to the important info, the strut specs! BZ3099 = 13.375" body length, 1.7" diameter, 20.625" extended length. BZ 3015 AND BZ3038 = 14.875" body length, 1.69" diameter, 21.938 extended length. BZ3125 = 13.063" body length, 1.7" diameter, 20.0" extended length. By the way, the part numbers which I used came as a recommendation from the guys at TTT. Im not saying these part numbers are good or bad, just giving the info on where I sourced my instructions from. Enjoy this info, you wont find it on any other posts except this one.

No sir, I have read that one. The thread Im talking about mentions 8 inch springs, and something about the amount of desired travel with 1.5 inch bumpstops. Its fuzzy though. I was half sleeping when I read it.

So I put my ground control kit on the front of my 260z with 12 inch springs and with the perch all the way lowered it barely dropped my car an inch. This is with 30mm sectioned from the casings. I figured that I could just go from 12 inch springs to 8 inch springs and get it the height I wanted with the lower spring support/perch in the middle of the threaded sleeve. Now with them in the middle of the threaded sleeve the car is lowwwww but I have only an inch of strut travel till it bottoms out... without bumpstops!! I used the instructions from the techno toy tuning guys recommending 30mm to be removed front and back, with the bottom perch welded on 7 and 1/8 inches from the top of the strut. Im using illumina bz 3125s in the front and bz 3038s in the rear. Did I do something wrong or do I just have the car too low? This is with 14 inch rims and no camber plates. Im seriously thinking of adding camber plates to the front to get the thickness of the top isolator removed. That should get me another inch at least.I shouldnt have this problem in the back because I have 2 more inches of tube I can section out plus the rears I can use camber plates and remove another 2 inches. I saw a post very recently talking about strut travel and now I cant find it. I was searching for spring height posts when I came across it but I wasnt paying attention and now I cant find it. Let me know what you all think.

Why not? It is easy to remove if you don't like it.

Glad to hear your Lc-1 is working. mine was also doa and warrantied it out for another one that died a month later. Using the zeitronix zt-3 now its been good, even with leaded gas.

Miller welders are all very nice. A few questions you should ask yourself is do you in the near or far future see yourself welding anything thicker than what's on your car? Also you might run out of gas at a critical time, can the welder handle flux core (some prefer it over gas)? One other thing, make sure you get infinite adjustment for wire and heat. My craftsman only has four heat settings and I regret it. It has done rails and rust patching no problem on 110v with both flux and gas.

If you are talking about the knobs that tilt the back forward and backwards, then the knobs go outboard. I was told my seats are from a 240z and thats how they are. If you have the seats with the lever (instead of the knob then they definitely go outboard. I tried to use a passenger seat as the driver seat for my 280z seats and the lever mechanism on the side of the seat hit the tranny tunnel.

Ok, where do I start... first thing you need to do is find out what sieze the injectors actually are. What this means is how many cc's/lbs per hour AT THIER RATED PRESSURE. Many different types of injectors have different operating pressures and changing the rated pressure up or down changes their flow rate. You need to see what the injectors are doing and that rquires wideband oxygen sensor. If I were you I would purchase one of those and then see if I needed an AFPR. Also you can rig the stock regulator to increase its pressure by taking a socket and tappi ng on the top of the regulator. You say you are running rich. What makes you think that? Is your exhaust popping or your intake? fuel smell? Also worth mentioning is if your injectors are barbed style then they are either stock, turbo, or mercedes. If they are o-ring style then they could be anything. You might find part numbers on the injectors. Just some food for thought.

I dont think so sir. On the other hand I have a pulley with a 36-1 edis wheel on it that I would let go for cheap. Ill even throw in my poorly made vr mount with some threaded rod to mount it.

Something you might check if it is running poorly due to lean misfire is the fuel filters. You should have a pre fileter and a regular fuel filter. I dont know how long your car has been sitting but mine has been sitting since 2004 with 3 gallons in the tank. I had an itch to check mine after mine started running like crap and low and behold my filters were full of jelly. I couldnt even see the filter on the fram g3 unit. just a thought.

I know what you mean man. Just installed my setup on the new turbo motor and it ran great the first drive, now it runs like piss and misses up high. Im still trying to figure out how to disable all the enrichments so I can tune. My crank angle is set at 360 and it likes to hang out around 700 at idle.

I dont know the rules for the nuts but I have torqued mine twice. This was before the motor was even run though for mockup.

Just leave it alone. You will be fine. Either way is ok.

Follow the pic that came with the kit. You need to shim it so that it turns freely when the to strut nut is tight. On top of the bearing is fine too, that's how I did mine and it works fine.

Ill bite. First off you didnt look really at all. Ok now thats out of the way. There are several different struts that are popular for the gc kit. Techno toy tuning recommends tokico illuminas front part number bz3125 and rear strut part number bz3038. After you decide the struts you want, tear down your suspension and "section" it meaning you cut out a small section of the strut casing and weld it back together. In my case with the part numbers I provided I cut my casings 30mm. After you weld them back together you will weld on the perch the spring sits on. In my case it was 7 and 1/8s inches below the top of the casing. Then have fun putting it all back together. Thats it. Here are some great references, DirtyS30's build thread with the link to his tutorial on strut sectioning http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2011/04/how-to-240z-ground-control-coilovers-w.html A video of a guy doing the same stuff we have to do on an corolla suspenion Vid of my fronts after I JUST finished them on turkey day 2011. I could probably vomit up more info but I wont spoon feed you and burp you. Enjoy and good luck.

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I found a Z31 tranny for 100 bucks but it has a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing close to where it bolts to the engine. Should I get it and try to patch it up or should I just let it pass me by? Im worried it might crack and I still need to machine the top of the bellhousing to accept 240hokes trans adapter. Let me know what you guys think.

Thats what I would do if I were you. Sounds like some sort of grounding/wiring issue especially if working on the stim properly. I just chased down a bad dizzy ground and a bad sensor ground myself. I didnt know how that even happened because I took a lot of time to make sure the harness was clean. Good luck.

Fuel and spark with the diy chopper wheel.

Take a good look at all the journals and the filet radiuses of them all, If pitted or gouged out at all, it will cost alot to repair it. It can be repaired though. We send refrigerant compressor cranks out to get built up and reburbished at around 800 bones. If all the journals and radiuses are in otherwise good condition you might be able to undersize it a bit and runs it. I would buy it and take it to the machine shop if it were me though.

The reason I didnt go with a same side inlet outlet is because I didnt want to cut a hole in the core support, and the reason I went under the motor vice across the front of the engine bay was so I could retain the stock fan. (for now!)This is what I have so far. I havent made mounts for the intercooler or hooked up the piping by the starter yet. I also have to pull it all back off to clean the metal shavings. This is a pre mock up to say the least but it should be ready for the maiden voyage soon.

Heres the pictures I promised.

Thats nice for sure. Buy one from the ferrari dealership and mod it for the datsun! lol