kaito

Finished breaking the motor in, installed a rebel wiring 9=3 harness w/ cs144 alternator and am currently installing the rear coilovers/disc brakes/obx helical. Super fun. So much stuff getting thrown at her at once is overwhelmingly awesome.

Just go to a shop before you break something boss man.

Is this true? I have the autometer sportcomp that I plan on hooking up very soon and would like some insight. Has anyone gotten their autometer fuel gauges to read accurately? Im more concerned about empty being accurate. I was planning on adding a 5ohm resistor to ground to help the full level a bit but I realize it will affect empty as well. Is this correct as well?

Not to be mean or bash on you any but why would you use vr input if the dizzy is optical? So to answer your question, yes jumper the board for optical/hall and use the pullup resistor. I used the power wire for the dizzy to pullup the signaal. In other words connect one end of the resistor to the white wire and the other to the wire you are using to power the dizzy. Good luck and I hope you get it working!

I just wanted to touch base with this thread again. I never figured out the charging problem. I gave up and installed a rebel wiring chassis harness. Upon completion of the installation I had the same problem. Turns out the new alternator was bad even though autozone tested it good. Well now I know. Thanks again beemanpete for the help.

Seriously, dont forget the brake pedal also if its going in an s30. The auto brake pedal is alot wider and hits the clutch pedal.

The datsun maxima or Toyota Cressida are both my top picks for potential grandma sleeper cars. I don't know why but they are both gangster as ****! I'm very jealous of your car btw.

Mine was running at 355 also but I removed the dizzy for some engine work and when i reset the timing I set it at 350 and had to move the dizzy to get it right. The 345 that diy recommends gets you in the ballpark to set it properly. I love this wheel and I havent even used it for what it was designed for yet!

How much are you wanting to pay for this? I can cut one from a J/Y car if the price is right.

The injector specs are in the FAQ stickies. You need to search. You can check them though with a multimeter. If you have megasquirt then you should know that. I'll help you out though. They are low impedence and around 260cc/min @36psi.if you want more fuel then up the fuel pressure. As for adding the seventh injector... its called staged injection and yes it can be done. Wire up your primary injectors to bank one, your secondaries to bank 2 and set it up in tunerstudio. You have to use extra code though if I'm not mistaken. Keep in mind though that usually the secondary injectors are much bigger than primaries like the staged injection of starions, their primary is 850cc/min and the secondary is a whopping 1000cc/min !!! I just need to find 5 more starions in the junkyard to have a baddass fuel system.

Thats totally my same type of work area!!! I do lots of curbside mods!!! Lol!

Sorry, I havet checked the this thread in a while. What I did was measure the thickness of the banjo bolts with calipers and ordered them from jegs. I even used the stock banjo on the turbo. Just standard banjo to an fittings. If I recall, one of the banjo fittings I ordered came with it's own bolt and I used that particular one on the big bolt that holds the oil plate to the block. Everything is working great.

Ooooh oooohhh!!!! Can you post the link to the shims you got from mcmaster? I had to go to a diff shop to find mine. The dealership looked at me like a tard when I tried them. Thank you!!!!

Stock manual transmissions work well at those torque levels. Don't tell him that! Lol the Nissan L trannies are made of glass. I've destroyed one with a flattop n/a setup and im waiting to pop the current one. Still breaking he engine in but as soon as I turn up the boost I'm positive it's gonna grenade. I'm going the hoke z32 trans route but if you are on a budget I would at least do the sx swap. Also don't waste your money on the intercooler you linked. Just get an eBay Intercooler and piping. It's way cheaper.

The front cover gasket is new. I haven't looked at water in the oil. I don't think there is any, I was just worried that it could be a possibility. The bolt that goes from the head to the front cover is unfortunately stripped out. The leak stops when the bolt is tightened. I'm fairly sure this bolt is open to coolant passage, but just wanted to be sure. Thanks for the help fellas.

I was in the process of mounting the cs144 alternator and removed the top bracket to adjust the alternator belt tension when I noticed coolant coming out. I pulled the bolt all the way out and coolant trickles out at a pretty constant rate. Should I just use some thread sealant and call it a day or is it going to put coolant into the oil? It is the top bolt on the timing chain cover right above the radiator coolant inlet to the block.

Just another question, I just did a resistance test on the yellow wire (sense) and I got readings on both pos and neg terminals. This is normal right? Also something has been bothering me for a couple of days, it was mentioned that I might have an under dash ground. After I did the radio install I noticed two wires that are red with a blue stripe. I Checked them and they both go to ground. I then saw when taking out the dash tach and speedo the same colored wires going to each lightbulb. They are definitely ground wires. My question about the red/blue wires is, where do they need to be connected and what are they for?

Sorry beermanpete, Ive been busy the past couple days and havent checked up on my post. My car is an early model 260z. The output post for the bat terminal on the alternator is not putting out voltage. Ill look into the output wire you speak of.Im in the process of checking all the grounds, looking for and identifying unknown loose wires, and removing the dash to check for all under dash wiring. I have also started the upgrade to the cs144 alternator and will be modifying the bracket, swapping pullies, and mounting the alt in the car today. Ill save the wiring till after I figure out the electrical gremlins.

Thanks for the tip. Seriously. I don't want flames. I guess I will be taking the dash out to find it. I needed an excuse to remove it anyways. Not trying to ask for handouts or anything but you have any recommendations for where I should start?

Just tried out a new regulator but no cigar... It was mentioned that the N terminals voltage was a bit high. Would the regulator not be putting out voltage for that reason? It might be a coincidence but this all happened after I installed a stereo, and after the stereo install my turn signals also quit. My hazards never worked but now they do. Anyways, Im thinking about just doing the cs144 upgrade.

How is your rack still moving with the energy bushings? I had to remove my k memeber and cut the stupid bushings in half to get them in. The rack doent move in mine now AT ALL! Might as well be welded in lol. For real though, I would get the other energy bushings and try those. The ebay ones look just like blue energy bushings to me. If you cant get them right with those bushings then something might be wrong.

The IG terminal does what you said it should do. I just jumped the F terminal to the battery and it produces voltage which increases with engine speed. I guess autozone was right. Ill be buying a new regulator soon. Thanks so much for the help. You saved me money and taught me something at the same time. It was easy to wrap my head around the this test vs the FSM tests. Thanks again!

My charging circuit decided to quit on my way to work one morning but thankfully megasquirt will run even with 9 volts!! Anyways, I took my alternator to autozone to have it tested and the guy who helped me said it was good. I had them test my battery and it also passed. That would, with deductive reasoning, mean my voltage regulator is faulty. I then bust out the FSM and do a couple quick tests. First was obviously a ground check with the alternator body and chassis ground. That was good to go. Then I checked conductivity on the N teminal plug and voltage regulator. Have conductivity, so good to go there. I then remove the n terminal and start the car. I checked N terminal on the alternator at idle and revving. Only 8.3 volts. Not looking good. I also dont have voltage at all coming from the yellow N terminal wire to the regulator when the plug is reconnected. The FSM says that in both of these cases the alternator is suspect. So am I done troubleshooting or do I need to further investigate this? I want to get new parts, but only if I need them. What do you guys think?

The super thick oil is probably the culprit. Holy molasses batman!

Ok sir, I must have missed it in the aforementioned thread. Thanks!