kaito

"wikipedia is a valid source?" Coming from the guy known as wiki D. Tickled my funny bone.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Wangan_Midnight_characters Quit being stupid dude. You know you offend easily right?

I had a welded diff that I mig welded. I didnt like it when it worked and HATED it when all the welds cracked. I put in a helical after that and loved it. I toasted the bearings so I put an open diff in till its repaired. Now it feels like my car is crippled. Hope you like it better than I did though.

I like how one poster said that the motor is cheap but it cost 500 to adapt a Trans to it. Z32 Trans are cheap, I'll say 500 and that's being steep. Add a mazworx adapter for 400 and you have a Trans option for less than $1000. For an ls swap you would NEVER find a manual Trans for under 2 grand. That's TWICE the price of the other setup. Crazy!!!

Good grief man, yes you need the oil, why on earth would you turn over an engine without lubrication in it? If you are so cheap that you can't buy some 1 dollar Walmart oil the. Just leave it in there unless you plan on turning the motor upslidedown. Good luck with the uz swap btw.

Thanks buddy, that's more like it. It's an r200 you are absolutely right, I want to replace all the bearings but the pinion bearings are now and the axle bearings alone are $60 each. Like you said just because there wasn't anything visible doesn't mean they didn't get lunched so I'll just pick up a new one at the junkyard. One more question, does the pinion and ring gear come mat he'd together or can I put a 3.54 ring gear into a diff that came with a 3.73 gear?

Are you gonna sell the old ms ecu?

No thats why I was asking about the signs for bad bearings. If you don't have anything to help, don't say anything at all. That's one thing I dislike about this site. People will always say search or post a smart ass comment before they eventually help.

I installed a obx helical a few months ago and everything was good with it except that it clunks a little bit. I noticed a big puddle of gear oil under the diff and thought, oh I guess my seals are leaking from the shaft. I drove it home about 30 miles. Almost home I notice a burning smell like hot gear oil and there is a noise now. I look under the car in the garage and see my diff cover hanging off!!! F**k! I put some more oil in and go for a spin and its making a bad grinding noise that gets faster and louder with speed and it stops when I let off the gas. No noise at all when coasting. I just tore it down and I can see no discernable damage or problems aside from the stub axles being backwards. (oops) I now think that was the noise I have been hearing and the clunk I have been hearing was probably from the loose driveshaft (I know it sounds like Im a bad mechanic but dont judge please! lol)My question is, is there any way that a guy can tell in his garage that his diff bearings are bad with the diff apart and sitting on the table? All the bearings look good and rotate smoothly. any help on this subject would be great.

Ok I have a few questions about mounting this beast. I would like to use the aluminum oil pan but I cant find andy pics of a vh mounted in an S30. (closeups)Will it clear or would I be better off welding on the steel pan. I can handle modding the pan. I plan on picking up the vh45 I should have gotten at the junkyard in a few weeks and Ill probably end up using the 41 block due to the alternator config. This leads me to my next question. I dont have the vh41 intake so will the 45 intake bolt on or should I grab the 45 heads and intake as well? Actually my real questions is which heads are better? Im thinking of fabbing my own intake out of steel but that may be later down the line. Thanks for the help in advance and Im very surprised that there are not more vh swaps on this site.

My bad rej

Awesome. I have been using your other map and it has been great. Can't wait to drive on this tune.

Did you ever squeeze the uz in there? Too bad you dont live down in San diego. There are vh and uz motors galore for 300 all day.

bogus... the motor I bought has metal chunks in the oil pan and one cylinder is dead. I always have bad luck with craigslist. The search continues.

Absolutely right, It says p30 in the pics, thats an l28 crankshaft.

I would resurface the flywheel and put a cheepo clutch in just for your weekend trip but it looks like a lot of heat has been put into the flywheel and especially the pp. Did the clutch slip at all or was it just your shifting that was the problem?

What part?

I chose the vh platform. Just picked one up for $100 last night. I didnt know the transmission mounting bolts were gigantic m14 bolts. I have to wait till monday to get some bolts to mount it to the engine stand.

Between 124 and 144. I maxed out 4th and was well into 5th when i gave up the race. I only had a lap belt. I was racing a g35 and I was glued to his bumper till I gave up. We were swerving through traffic like crazy at night. It was intense. The car felt SOLID. 3.54 final drive with 78 5 speed. Ive never felt so connected to the z as I did that night... Its alwasy felt sloppy till then. Ive done t3 coilovers and camber plates with 1 degree positive camber and no sway bars hooked up. 225 springs in front 250 in back. Im sure if I hooked up the sway bars it would be even tighter. Also energy bushings all round.

Oh dude, I totally forgot about you. I'll pm you my email so I can send you a tune. On the ignition troubleshooting, did you pull a plug to test for spark? Also you can hook up a timing light to all the spark plug wires and see if you are getting anything. Sorry if you already tried. The first time I tried this it took me 3 weeks to figure it out and get it to start. You will get it don't worry!

Cool car man. Maybe we can meet up sometime. I just did a fuel cell in mine if you wanna take a look at how I did it.

Um, I stand corrected. I actually used a rebel wiring 9+3 harness but Its pretty much the same thing. I didnt use a relay for my harness because megasquirt has all the efi relays and its a seperate harness. I assume you wouldnt because of that reason and also the controls all the keyed hot stuff. Im no expert though. Sorry if that didnt help. I hope you get it worked out. My Zs all had so many electrical gremlins it was ridiculous.

I have a running engine thats currently installed in the car but I would want around 1500-2000 for it. I did a few things to it. If you are interested come down to san diego and ill let you drive it.

Ok, The number you gave me is actually the part number for the assembled ecu. It says on the diy site that the bip373 is not included. Did you have them install this or did you install this? If not then what are you using for an ignitor? Also If you connect your ecu to the computer and bring up t/s go to file and open tune. It will brin g up a window that should be your current tune or msq. On the right it will say signature: MSII REV 2.something or 3.something. could you tell me that number? that would be the code you are running.

How much are you willing to pay for one?