jt1

Check all the valve springs. There's a good possibility the springs matching those lobes are weak and let the lifter float and bounce. How does the crank look? jt

Since this is a ground up build, IMO it would be best to do it in stainless and hard line. If you were converting an existing car, the rubber has some advantages, but in this case I say do it once and done. You will never work on the car in the future as easy as it is now. Stick with -8 from the cell to the pump for sure. No reason to downsize there. I really think a -6 would work from the pump to the carb, but in the one & done theory it would be pretty easy to go -8 all the way. There would be more expense to the -8, but not a lot. If you use a fuel log to attach to the carb rather than a hard line, it makes jet changes much, much easier. The line and the log need to be compatible, so keep that in mind. I like to run the filter right before the carb, running it in suction can present some extra problems, but I've seen a lot of people run them that way without issues, so it can obviously work. Let us know what you decide. jt

I've bought two items from David, a set of rear control arms and weatherstripping for the rear hatch. Both transactions were excellent, with good communication, prompt shipping, and the items exactly as described. I would not hesitate to buy from him again. John

Yes. I went and checked, and I'm running that exact same pump, 355 sbc, 420whp, no regulator. The only trick things are I enlarged the ID of the fittings that attach to the pump, and ran a single piece of 3/8 line from the pump to the filter, so no loss thru a bunch of fittings. Clean/simple/cheap/works. jt

John, the 3/8 will be fine for a 400hp car. For a long time I ran one of the internally regulated carter pumps on my car, and didn't have any problems with it. I'm not really a fan of the deadhead regulators, they seem to be quite inconsistent in my experience. A nice bypass regulator with returns gets $$$$ pretty fast, and the carter was cheap and easy. I put a gauge on it and it held 5-6 psi, and with a 3/8 line supported a little over 400whp with no problems. jt

It may be a problem for some, but if mine spills fuel out of the vents, it's never caused enough of a problem to be noticable. I've never had a problem with the standard floats, but a friend with a C4 vette converted to carb would pull enough lateral g's to stumble in long sweepers, and the road race floats fixed the problem. So it depends on the individual situation, but I would try a basic setup first and see how it does. jt

John, you are way over thinking this. For a while on the white car, I was running a 4150 700 dp that I cut the choke tower off with a hacksaw and die grinder. It had no other mods, just rejetted and changed the PV's, tuned on a chassis dyno. I'll post some pics of the tower mod if you like. At that point, the car was making about 400 at the wheels. Later on I bought a 830 annular hp, new in the box, from Matt King, the magazine guy. He was going formula racing and selling off his V8 stuff. On the dyno, we went up 2 jets all the way around, and down a size on the HS bleeds. I changed the PV's to 3.5's to clean up the idle. The 830 was worth about 20 hp on the top and about 35 ft-# in the middle. The white car would only pull about 1.35 -1.38 lateral g's, and at that point the carbs didn't need any special mods. Get your carb together and spend some time tuning it with a wideband, and you will do fine. jt

There. Fixed that for you. jt

john, the main differences between a hp and a standard 4150 are: 1: The choke tower is milled off, and the top of the main body is nicely radiused 2: The rear metering block has a PV and is set up for 4 corner idle 3: Both low and high speed air bleeds on the primary and secondary are drilled and tapped and use the replaceable bleeds 4: the secondary has an adjustment screw for the transfer slot exposure, and the rear blades are drilled There may be a few others, but those are the main ones I can think of right now. jt

Nice cars, nice pics, nice vids. Looks like you fellow had a good day and a good time. I've got the spring track fever bad, real bad. jt

The cable needs to hook to the carb arm where the spring is attached. You might want to look at the Lokar throttle cable. It's a nice setup with a lot of adjustability. It's a good idea to run a dual return spring. Those are some killer valve covers. You need to spiff those bad boys up some. jt

Wow. I'm really glad that didn't turn into a on track failure. That would have been just right hitting the kink at about a buck thirty. Scary. Buying Clyde's breakfast the rest of the season? jt

Yes, unless you're road racing and have the air ducted to to cool the brakes. Otherwise they just let unwanted air under the car. jt

No pictures, but if I wanted to use a 240Z chrome bumper I would use something like a MSA 1401, which doesn't have the useless brake duct holes. If I didn't want the 240Z bumper, I would use the MSA type 3, and block off the brake holes before I painted it. jt

Add an air dam to the front, seal the airdam back to the radiator support, and if you have any adjustment add some caster to it. jt

First V8 into a pumper I've seen. It might work out very well, I expect there's enough cooling capacity there to handle a pretty stout LS. It will be interesting. There are a couple of V8 911's running around here, one is spectacularly done, the other is somewhat hacked. Cool swap if done nicely. jt

Nicely done! jt

I've broken several. So far I've had no other damage. It can make a heck of a racket when the lifter falls down on the cam. Look the cam lobe and lifter over very closely, make sure the rocker isn't binding on anything or bottomed out on the threaded portion of the stud. Usually you can replace the stud without any other issues. jt

I've always thought I wanted to drive a really fast car. After watching that 956 vid several times, now I'm not so sure. jt

Where the tabs for the toe link are welded to the tubing, it looks like there's a piece of round stock there. Is that correct, and what's it for? jt

A big Happy Birthday to my favorite spot on the internet!!!!!!!! John

Have any of the OHC conversions made more hp than the standard configuration? The Moser is my favorite, it has massive cool factor. jt

Nice flat torque curve, and it doesn't nose over after the peak. Thanks for posting it. John

When my Z was a street car at about 325 whp, It would get 20-25 mph if I kept my foot out of it. With the T56, you don't have any gearing issues, so it just needs tuning. Cruise mixture, power valves, timing curve. It takes some patience, but you can get there. jt