jt1

I like the look, and it's functional too, a win/win. Good job. John

So far as split wing versus one piece, the tires are going to be a big factor in deciding which is faster. If the outside tire can handle the additional load without overheating, the advantage may go to the solid wing. If the outside tire can't handle this extra load and heat, then the split wing loading the inside tire could be the faster setup. Rather than a split wing, what if you could shift the solid wing laterally? Then you would get the total downforce, but be able to shift it to the side of the car you desired. John

Sometimes, you can tell how a fastener failed by the appearance of the broken end. It's possible to identify a bending failure, shear failure, and tensile failure, and sometimes an internal flaw. In this case, a tensile failure is probably overtightened, shear is hitting a curb or hole, and bending is a loose bolt. The AZC knuckles are nice pieces. I have a set for my mythological track car, but haven't actully used them yet. Tom (mayolives) and Mark both have them on their track cars, and they are faster than me. John

Lots of people run the spacers without issues. The bolt could have been a substandard fastener, it could have got loose, it could have been over tightened, or you could have hit something. Look at the parts closely and see if you can see any signs of movement. Can you post a good closeup picture of the end of the broken bolt? John

We have a local guy who builds 1st gen/SB2.2 hybrids for dirt super late models. They make 850-860 hp. You can buy used 2.2 heads fairly cheap, but you need custom pistons, custom cam, and the rocker assembly is expensive. Rehabbing the heads is expensive also. The ones I have seen use 2.25 titanium intake valves with 6mm stems, and they have a fairly short lifetime. John

Nah, it won't blow the filter off, unless something goes really wrong. The filter bypass only functions when the filter gets stopped up and creates a pressure rise sufficent to open the bypass valve. About the only way you blow the filter off is turn too many rpm with cold oil. Always get the oil warmed up before you wing it. John

Since Chevy went to the spin on filter, they use the pump bypass and the one in the filter adapter that bolts to the block, shown in the last picture. I don't know how the canister filter blocks bypassed, if at all. I think there's an old 283 block laying behind the hogpen, if I get a chance I'll look at it and see if it's different. jt

Looks nice John! I hope you get it to the track soon, I'm looking forward to seeing it. John

That's some eye candy for sure. Be sure and post up some pics when you get it on the car. How do you think it will stack up performance wise to your current setup? Any chance of a dyno comparison? John

Looks like my rear lines are 12". DP setup, which mounts a dynalite single in the upper forward quadrant, and the flex line goes to the stock mounting tab, where it meets the hardline. John

I'm glad you found out where the stuff came from and made it to the track. Track looks pretty cool to me, and looks like you were getting around pretty good. Any other cars in your group? jt

That's even better that it seals to the hood. Ultimately, you want any air that doesn't go thru the radiator to go around the car. That's never gonna happen with a street car, but you're going in the right direction for sure. John

I don't think I've seen anything like that on a Z car, but some possibilities might be after market camber plates or T/C rod kits. I think you need to look at the creeper, rolling stool, floor jack, cherrypicker, etc. Unless you find it came off the car, I'd go to the track day and just let the first session be a cautious shakedown run. jt

That looks nice. Does the upper front lip seal to the hood? John

You old geezer..... Have a good one!!! jt

90 is way overkill. You need something like 16 or 18 gauge. jt

You have an absolutely beautiful car. Very clean and well done. You can reach your 400/400 goal with any of the ways you mentioned. If your going to run it hard, you'l need to upgrade the bottom end. It will last a while at those levels, but it's days will be numbered. For a NA 383, you're going to need 10:5 comp, pump 93 gas, heads that flow 260/200 or better, 240-245 duration cam, 1 3/4 headers with a good exhaust, air gap intake and a 750-830 carb. It may be a little less streetable than your current setup, but not much. It really comes down to which route you like the most, and want to pursue. John

Nice job. I think it looks great. jt

Looks like #5 will hit the steering shaft to me. But it's hard to go wrong for $50. If they don't work you can resell them, especially if you know what they were originally intended to fit. jt

There's nothing wrong with the shim & spacer. Just take your time and get the preload so you can feel some drag on the stub when you turn it. Hope you make the AX. jt

Point being, if you're using a stock size flywheel and bellhousing, about the least any of them are is 7 3/4 from the crank centerline, some are a lot more. There's no reason to spend a bunch of effort on a very shallow pan if it's 2 or 3 inches higher than the bellhousing. A stock pump will be fine if the pickup is correctly matched to the pan like Grump mentioned. jt

What size clutch and bellhousing are you going to use, and how far does it hang down? jt

2mm won't make a bit of difference, whichever is correct. They will work fine. John

How about a big thumbs up to Turbo Tom for taking FTD at the THSCC time trials at the VIR full course today. Tom took Redbird around the track at a blistering 2:10.6 to take the big prize of the day. Roddy was right behind with a 2:11 to take fourth, so it was a big day for the Z car guys. It's nice to see two guys who have put untold hours and dollars in their cars get some great results! Nice job!!!!!! John

I've had the Canfield 195's on my 355 for about 3 years now. I've been pleased with them and would buy them again, they offer good hp/$. I bought bare heads, cleaned up the bowls myself, built them with Ferrea valves and Comp hardware. They did everything Canfield advertises on a local bench that is considered a little tight. The engine makes decent power and I've had no problems with the heads, so I've been pleased. John