jt1

It's a 83 euro-spec grey market factory 930 slantnose. Porsche didn't build them to US emissions specs and import them new till 86, so this one was imported as a used car. The euro cars are 1" lower, have 30 more hp, have slightly different lights, and don't have any smog equipment. It also doesn't have any A/C, or a muffler. I can't wait to hear it run. Go ahead and pay the guy and haul it back to hburg. Then I will steal it from your garage, and maybe the yellow car too. jt .....road trip not looking so good now....

Glad you had a good time. I highly reccomend track days & autoX to anybody that's a car guy. You learn a lot about your car, how to drive it, and about yourself. Most people who give it a try walk around with a big grin for a few days. Congrats. jt

It's been tracked, and will be some more if I bring it home. It's got a bolt in roll bar, 5 point belts, and some after market seats. The interior pics don't look as good as the exterior; he says the paint is pretty nice except for a few rock chips. One thing I've learned is that cars usually look better in pics than in person. The wing is after market, it came with the whale tail style Porsche wing. There seems to be pretty good documentation on what work has been done. I've got an appointment with the shop in Pompano that's maintained the car to discuss what's been done. jt

I enjoy road trips. I'm taking my truck, trailer, and some $$$$$$. Some of my other ones have been to Chicago for a 67 Coronet R/T, Dallas for my 71 240Z, and Ohio for the YZ kit I bought for the track car. I always enjoy it, the key is to leave some extra time in the schedule so you can enjoy yourself, and don't drive if you get too tired. I'm excited about going. I couldn't get a pic to upload this morning, but it worked this time. The goofy looking wing is growing on me. jt

I'm heading down to Pompano Beach FL to check out a car. T&S says it's about 750 miles, so I'm going to leave around lunch tomorrow, drive till I get tired & spend the night somewhere, then finish up Friday morning when I'm supposed to meet the guy to check it out. I'm looking forward to the trip, it never takes much to talk me into going somewhere in west hell to look at a car. My wife thinks I'm a complete lunatic, but anyway...... The car is a departure from normal stuff I look at, it has a big goofy looking rear wing and is a turbo six cylinder. I've spent some time checking out the history and I think it's got potential, but we'll see. YEEEHAAAA!!!!!!! jt

Nice looking car. I think you did well! jt

Glad you found the problem. Chocolate chip w/almonds please!!!!! If you can't find one closer, I've got some on an old parts car. Let me know. jt

I've never used a fluidamper on a L-28, only chevys and mopars. Sometimes they are too tight to even start on the snout. John

I've never used a BHJ, but I have honed several Fluidampers to get them to fit properly. Use some oil, and a little honing goes a long way. Make a couple of passes with the hone, the test the fit. Several passes at once could easily be too much- GO SLOWLY! John

I may be wrong, but this just doesn't sound like a diff problem to me. Is it possible that during the suspension work the weight bias has got shifted around so that there's no weight on the RR? Maybe a loose coilover nut, or a broken/slipped spring perch, or a collapsed shock? Check the gland nuts on the front also, if they come loose they will make the rear do funny things. Completely rebuilding a diff is a long process without a pinion gauge. If you just pull the carrier, you can set the back lash back where it was and be OK, but if you take out the pinion and put new bearings in it, it takes a lot of trial and error to get the mesh pattern right. You can do it, but it's not a quick/simple job. John

It's possible it's in the diff- maybe a carrier bearing going out, but I think it would be making a noise you could hear. My guess is there's some motion in the vertical pieces or horizontal piece that supports the rear of the LCA's. The forces of accel/deccel are causing the thrust angle and/or rear toe to change as the load on the LCA's changes. Maybe loose bolts, worn bushings, or maybe the wheel bearings. John

I fell in love with a girl the first time I met her. 3 1/2 yrs later we got married, recently celebrated our 12th anniversary, and I'm still in love with her. So it can be real, just take it slow and get to know each other before you talk about marriage. And post up some pics!!!!!!! John

I routinely shift my TKO at 7K, and haven't had any problems so far. Do the synchros wear out, or just give slow shifts? John

It's pretty amazing how the Z06's turn, and one thing is sure, the mayor gets all the tires have got to give. Those 315's have a lot of stick. Happy 4th.....have a great day! jt

Generally a magnetic trigger on the crank, working thru the ECU. jt

Darwin will take care of that guy in due time. Hopefully it's a single car accident and DOA. jt

Hey Big Guy, glad things are going well. Be safe, have a great time, and let everybody know a HybridZ is there! It's great the new motor's doing well, looks like it's gonna be a good one. Talk smack to the mayor, then get in his mirror. He will crack under pressure! It's 95deg here and I'm taking a break from cutting grass, what there is of it. Oh well. jt

When I was replumbing my brake lines and eliminating the prop valve, I was never able to locate a metric T for the double flare lines. You can find the bubble flare ones all over, but no doubles. I wound up robbing one off the rear of a parts car, where the rear lines separate. John

Too many variables to predict, you'll just have to cut and try. If it's too high, retarding the cam a few degrees can help, also retarding the timing, or slowing down the advance curve may help. FWIW, I had a 10.5:1 355 with a med cam, 230ish @50, cranking pressure 190-195, and it ran fine on pump 93 until the ambient temp hit about 90deg, then it would spark knock some. Like I said, YMMV! John

It's just a matter of getting everything lined up, which can really try your patience sometimes. You might try taking the bellhousing off the trans and using the actual input shaft to line up the disc, rather than the tool. Some long bolts, like 8" or so, can be pretty good getting things to line up and go together straight. If the Enzyte has caused the input shaft to swell up, you're doomed. John

Whar you're reading off a compression tester is cranking psi, not dynamic compression, although the two are related. Dynamic compression is a calculated value depending on when the intake valve closes and compression actually begins. There are a LOT of variables here- chamber design, quench, gas quality, altitude, static and dynamic compression, plugs, timing, advance curve, A/F mixture, engine temp, air temp, so YMMV..... But a general rule is most engines do OK on 93 at 180 cranking psi or less. 190 -200 is getting pretty borderline, works in some situations but not others. John

Pioneer stuff I've seen is the cheapest possible rebuilder grade type parts. I would stick with ARP. jt

Bill, be sure to secure the lines to the HTOB so they can't move around and contact the pressure plate. Davy & AG, I've been using the McLeod HTOB for three years now. After initial problems with o rings cut during assembly by McLeod, it's been working fine with no problems at all. jt

John, you're doing fine. To show what weight reduction can do, let's consider my car and the aforementioned 2200# 280Z. My car is essentially a street legal V8 240Z, although the mufflers are a little loud. Full interior, lights, glass, heater, stereo, blah blah. Put a tag on it and drive it around. It weighs right at 2700# on track with driver, and it's about 480hp at the crank, probably about double the 280Z. We were both doing a time trial at VIR a while back. No contest, right? 480 hp versus a lightly modded L6, with both cars running the same size Hoosiers, it's the V8 all the way, no problem, right? He has more experience at VIR, and gets around a little better than me, but I'm decent, and my car sounds like a winston cup car. I beat the 280Z. By four tenths of a second on a two mile track, not nearly the difference you would expect. So lightening up helps a lot, not only in acceleration, but braking, turning, and transitions. I think I'll go drill some holes in mine right now. jt