jt1

You can hurt ceramic headers on break in by overheating them. I have broke in motors with ceramic headers and not had any problems, but the key to that is make sure the A/F is close, lean runs them hotter, and make sure the timing is dead on, retarded runs them hotter. Then, get a big pedestal type fan and position it blowing on the motor as soon as you get the timing set, and one from each side is better. This provides enough airflow to keep the headers cool. John

Like a lot of things, it depends on the level of mods, but a nicely done HybridZ is capable of Z06/Viper performance, maybe more. The newer cars have more tire on them, which is an advantage, but the Z is lighter. John

Wow. Wicked car with a wicked sunset in the background. Awesome pics. jt

Sounds to me like the ignition is dropping out and causing the stumble/unburnt fuel/smoke. I don't think a 670 w/65/68 would be too rich. jt

Truly an oldie-but-goodie, classic James Garner. John

Rudy, that's interesting info, thanks for posting it. I knew the cd of the S30 was pretty high, but I didn't know it was per sf. So with a small frontal area it's not as bad as it seems. Lunar, heat and aero are very closely linked. Air flowing over a surface heats the surface, sometimes not enough to matter, sometimes enough to make a huge difference, like F-16 wings. John

Wow. I quit looking at the thread when it became a pissing contest, i just checked in to see how the urine was flying. Lot's of good thoughts here. I'll be glad to help out on the tests and contribute financially. My college roomie is an AE and a VG guru, I'll see if I can bounce some of this off him. Last time I tried to contact him, he was bouncing around Iraq in a F-16. I've also got the whaletail mikelly is referring to, we can use it to test if so desired. John

TWO nice looking cars, jmark. jt

A dangerous combination, for sure. Anyway, I'm still thinking about it. jt

After a few delusional moments I began to reconsider. The guy is certainly an out-of-box thinker, definitely some different ideas there. Some maybe good, some maybe not so good, but for sure a fresh approach. Anyway, I think Pam is getting it for Mark's christmas present. John

I'm on a mission. Coming soon to a road course near you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-Road-Racing-Car_W0QQitemZ180052758185QQihZ008QQcategoryZ98064QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem John

410's are a bunch of fun. Learn to shoot it well and be safe with it, and enjoy the heck out of it. John

This is an interesting discussion. If you're running gas in the main system, and methanol in the N2O system, and using a wideband O2 meter to tune, how do you know what F/A ratio to shoot for? John

The air gap is a darn good manifold as is. There may be just a few hp in matching the ports if the rest of the combo supports it, but it's not much. If you're planning on less than 500hp, I wouldn't worry about it, and spend that time/money on getting the combo tuned. John

I tried "brian morrow scarab" and "brian morrow datsun" and came up with zero current info. I guess if he did die in an auto accident, being in a V8Z would be appropriate. I remember reading the R&T article many years ago and thinking "Holy Crap!!!!". jt

I thought Brian Morrow was still alive???????? jt

With the camber plates up top and the adj. LCA's you should be able to get enough travel to the halfshafts and whatever camber you want. Back the coilover off and set a jack under the LCA, then run the strut thru the full range of travel, and check the halfshaft play in several positions. I hear you on the pucker problem. At the end of the VIR front stretch, the bumpy section really gets my attention. I think the rear wheels are touching the track ever 100' or so!!!! jt

Looking good Tom. How much neg camber are you shooting for, and how much additional travel do you think it will give the halfshafts? John

There are a lot of theories on power valve selection. My somewhat goofy method, which has worked well for me, is to tape the vacumn guage to the windshield where you can see it, then take a drive. Watch the vacumn at steady state cruise, then select a PV 0.5 to 1.0 below the cruise vacumn. The goal is to get the PV to open as the vacumn drops when you get on the gas, and to be open before you use up the pump shot. jt

Good advice from jimszx. One thing I'll add, while you've got the vacumn guage on it, note the reading, and be sure the power valves are lower than the idle vacumn. You want them closed at idle, not open. jt

John, you're just cursed!!!!!!!!!!!! I agree the shop-vac brand sucks major, but I've had real good luck with the sears brand, one I've had for 10 yrs or so, and another one, the 6 hp version, for about a year. jt

Don't use the distance to the scale, use the distance from the socket c/l to the center of your hand where you are applying pressure to the wrench. Otherwise your method is good. I don't know if that's about right or not, maybe some other PB users will chime in. John

Car's looking great, Bob. The flares, Gnose, color, and the CCW's look really nice. I can't wait to see it run on track sometime. I will point you right on by......... John

Trick Flow makes chevy heads too. Mine were on a 350, JTR position. John