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jt1

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Everything posted by jt1

  1. How about you two having a dyno shootout? I volunteer to hold the money. cygnus, the prop valve is on the tunnel, it's right behind the steering wheel in the pic. John
  2. That was a nice day- lots of track time, good guys to hang out with, big thanks to Pam and Lori for a great lunch, fast cars to look at & run with, just great. That was the first time I'd got to run with Mark since he got the new engine in. He blew by me in the 930, then ran down and passed a well driven C6 Z06. Mark's car is a real rocket. Redbird is showing a lot of potential when all the new car bugs get sorted out, Tom's getting there for sure. I actually made some progress on the engine this weekend, it's coming together. jt
  3. Good deal John, they are tough to find. Are you going to use the tilted bellhousing? jt
  4. I thought Nicole's dad was a big shot at Centerline, maybe the owner? In any event she was very nice and really knew wheels well. I think I asked her out, or proposed, or something........ jt
  5. Mine gets real hot. 30 min after a track session you can't begin to touch it, not for a second even. I use the mobil 1 synthetic and change it every 3 or 4 events. Shooting it with a IR gun is a good idea, I'm going to try that. jt
  6. Try the Fel Pro 1604, it's the best I've found. Thick cork/rubber with steel center. jt
  7. Cool deal Joe. In my somewhat long winded reply above, I forgot this thread started out about the rockers nuts backing off. Mike is probably right, the rocker backed off and the pushrod jumped out of the rocker or lifter cup. jt
  8. How many rpm are you turning that thing Joe? Check for: *Pushrod rubbing the head *Rocker arm binding, sometimes the slot isn't long enough and it runs out of travel on the stud *Retainer to valve guide clearance, need at least 50 *Coil bind on the spring, need about 50 from bind to max lift *Valve to piston clearance, need about 100 *Valve spring pressure, whatever manufacturer reccomends A compression test or leakdown on that cyl might be a good idea, that would show if the valve is bent. Sometimes a straightedge across the tips will show a bent one if it's bad. You may have a broke/weak valve spring that let the valve hit the piston. Check it out carefully, that could get real ugly. John
  9. Welcome to HybridZ. That's a nice looking car. Fill us in on your plans. Everybody here has to have a plan. You can change it anytime, but you've got to have one. :biggrin: John
  10. You probably need to define your budget and what parts you've got on hand, and go from there. Your goals require a high strung street engine, close to a race engine, and it ain't gonna be cheap. It's also probably out of the range of vortecs, and I don't think anybody makes multi carb intakes for vortecs. John
  11. I think the heads you've got are better than the vortecs, and a switch would be a mistake. Use the rpm's with a performer rpm or rpm air gap intake, a Holley 600 double pumper, good ignition, a cam in the 220-225@50 range, 1 5/8 headers with a Xpipe or hpipe, and get the DCR to about 8.5. Most importantly, spend a day on a dyno with a wideband to get the combo tuned for power and throttle response. Proper tuning will pay huge dividends. John
  12. Wow!!!! Isn't that a 6x6? In other words, a pretty nice bull? Wow. John
  13. Both of you guys have some nice looking stuff going on there. Keep us updated on how they turn out. John
  14. A 4 - 7 swap wired up incorrectly will give a dead skip. 5 - 7 are close enought it just does goofy things like you describe. No need to discuss how I know this! Edit: If it's a hydraulic cam motor, check and make sure the rockers are adjusted so that the plungers in the lifters aren't bottoming out. Cam timing is another possibility. John
  15. Check and make absolutely certain #5 & 7 plug wires aren't crossed, or that any spark is jumping between these two wires. A dark garage is best for checking for sparks jumping wire to wire. John
  16. Did you lose oil pressure? Hydraulic or solid cam?
  17. Sorry to give out bad info, I wasn't aware of the name change. Speed Design did a spectacular job. My head is still spinning form looking at it!!! Welcome to HybridZ BTW. John
  18. For a stock 350 rebuild, something like a Edelbrock performer intake and a smaller 4 barrel carb of around 500-600 cfm will work fine. Don't use a single plane intake and bigger carb unless you upgrade the compression, cam, and exhaust. John
  19. 180 headers offer a performance advantage over 4:1 headers. Theory is the incoming exhaust pulse enters the collector 180 crank degrees from the previous cyl firing, so the negative reflection of the previous firing is at it's peak, and scavenging is improved. Because some tubes, the crossover ones, have to be longer than others, this means the tube length is very critical to match the pulse with the negative reflection. So it takes a ton of dyno work to get the tubes worked out to maximize the effect, and you have to do this in a package to fit the chassis in question. Some 180 disadvantages: -Because good ones are custom built, they are very expensive. -The extra scavenging effect is only in a certain rpm range, not across the board. -They create lots of plumbing/packaging/clearance problems. -They are heavy. -They can make previously routine maintenance a nightmare. And a biggie- The top Nascar teams discovered a very well designed and built X pipe system is very, very, close to the performance of 180's, without all the above headaches. 180's were the standard for super speedway cars for a while, because the SS engines run in a very narrow rpm range. At Talladega the rpm will only vary a few hundred rpm around the track, so the 180's worked very well. They have fallen out of favor for the above reasons. But, oh boy, they do sound wicked. John
  20. The slow looking Porsche is, in fact, slow. Well not really, just compared to what I'm used to. It's on Falken street tires, so no really fast laps. It's well setup by PO, turns in nicely, and you can put the tail wherever you want it with the gas. It took me a little while to get used to the pedals and shifter, and it has the famous 930 turbo lag, which was frustrating at times. Overall I was pretty pleased, but I really want a car like Tom's with my motor in it. I'll check with Tom on the 11th. Olie, the dash is just one of the super details on this car. My crappy pics don't do it justice. John
  21. A track day this weekend at Carolina Motorsports Park was the shakedown trip for board member Mayolives's (Tom) recently completed track car "Redbird". Redbird is the result of over three years work by Tom, with a ton of help from Roddy and Mark at RTR Motorsports. The planning, execution, and attention to detail really make this car a masterpiece. RTR's custom fabrication of a lot of components is simply mind blowing. Tom has kept me updated on the buildup, but seeing the sum of all the parts was much greater than the pieces. The car is a turbo L28 with electramotive EFI, crank trigger ignition, water cooled turbo, caterpillar sized intercooler, Arizona Z suspension & brakes, and a whole lot more. Tom has spent a lot of time and a few $$$ on this beauty, and it shows. It was a bright sunny day and the shadows are a little harsh, but you'll get the idea. Please disregard slower cars in the background. John
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