jt1

I think he would be lucky to get 6K for it, let alone 60K. jt

Looking good, Bob. I'm glad you're going to have some time for your car(s) after all your travels!!!!!! Keep us updated. John

Good advice. jt

Use the blood to mark the guideplates, that will save money on the Sharpie. If the pushrods clear and the rocker tips are centered with the guideplates centered (usually this is the case), slide the plate down as far as it will go on the studs. Then tighten the left hand stud first, and the right hand stud resists the turning movement and it's a lot easier to keep the plate straight. If you have to move a plate to the side, you just have to snug, check, tighten a little, check, and finally torque and check again. John

Some movement is normal. Adjust the guideplates so the rocker tips are centered on the valves. It takes a little trial and error. John

It wouldn't be absolutely necessary, but a larger cam would complement the higher comp nicely. Higher static comp plus a smallish cam will give a high cranking psi and high dynamic CR, which means harder starting and higher octane requirements to avoid detonation. You would gain performance by raising the static CR, but you would gain even more with the CR plus a larger cam, as long as the cam didn't exceed the airflow capability of the rest of the engine. John

I'm not 100% sure of this, but I seem to recall when Brownfield went under, some of the major players formed Canfield. If AFR can't help, try them. jt

Grumpy, with all due respect..... You obviously haven't seen anything I've measured, cut, and welded after a few shots of brandy. :biggrin: jt

Yep, Hookers are for the scarab engine position, they won't clear the steering shaft with a JTR position. IIRC, Brian Morrow and Hooker worked together to build those. jt

What's that on the front of the motor that sticks out between the wastegates? Almost looks like a blower snout with a drive belt on the end. John

OK, the only timing cover with provisions to check the cam endplay is the Comp, or the summit knockoff. Both use the thick front seal, so changing timing covers is out. Denny411 is correct, Felpro makes a one piece with the thick front seal, several actually, it took a while for me to find them. For reference, the one piece for thin front cover, two piece rear main, drivers dipstick is FPP-1885. For thick front seal, two piece rear main, pass side dipstick is FPP-1880. Unknown front, two piece rear main, driver dip is FPP-1881. There is another thick/two piece rear/driver dip, FEL-OS34510T. Felpro says it's not for racing use. I ordered the 1881 and the 3451, I'll compare them once I have it in hand and post any visual differences. jt

Like this: I was pretty hyped up to use it. It has a lot of advantages, such as eliminating the joints at the corners of the pan (less leaks?), not using any sealant (easier cleanup, reusable?), it's got steel inserts around the bolts(won't squish out?). About the only dis is cost. But, the goofy comp timing cover requires the thick front seal, and this one piece is the thin version. I may ditch the timing cover and use another one if the gasket works good. Any reviews? John

We heat our shop with a waste oil heater. It's not perfect, you have to adjust for the weight oil and the temp, but it's not much trouble. Having the waste oil tank inside helped a lot with the temp issue. Overall, we've been quite pleased. Lots of good heat at almost no expense other than the initial cost. jt

I run the air gap with a drop base air cleaner, no problems. It's a fine intake. John

Thanks for the report, Pete. Glad to hear you're back at work and improving. What's the status of your car? Did the paint shop ever finish up? John

Joe, I ran at CMP with a turbo Neon that was putting down a little over 350 at the wheels. It was real quick. Glad you found some heads! jt

My thoughts and prayers to all his family and friends. Loosing someone close is just a tough time. John

At one time in NC, your could get a permit from the Dept. of Revenue to distill ethanol for use as a fuel. I don't know if that program is currently active or not. Essentially it is a liquor still, using fruit, corn, etc. I've got an old 302 SBC that's a high compression race motor, 12 to 1 or so. I've been having thoughts about freshening it up and trying some E85 in it. It would be an interesting project. John

1. Early or late doesn't matter. 2. 240/260/280 will be the same, zx completely different. 3. There are a ton of variables. Fer instance: Tube size & length and collector size Angle plug/straight plug. square port/d port. JTR/MSA/Scarab engine mounting position Stock bellhousing/scattershield/auto Kickout oil pan mini starter or stock starter Oil filter Clutch slave cylinder Check out this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97989&highlight=S%26S and this one http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98544&highlight=S%26S John

Nobody makes a good long tube header for V8 z cars. The S&S's, which I've got on my car, are a barely workable solution with several goofy features, and they're the only game in town. Once you start outrunning the capabilities of block huggers, the exhaust is the most problematic part of a V8 Z. If you want to check with those fellows and then start a new thread, I bet you'll get a good bit of interest. I would sure be interested in a set. A year or so ago, we tried to get S&S to make a set for V8 Z's, and a good many people commited to buy them, but S&S wouldn't cooperate. John

Do you know somebody willing to do this? I would be interested in a similar set, and I think several others here would be too. With a kickout pan, the tubes are going to have to be right at the T/C boxes, and then angle back in to clear the footwells, a pretty tight fit. John

That pan looks like it will work OK if you're using some style block hugger. It will not clear the S&S's. The kickouts make starter, oil filter, and exhaust tight, but workable. If you're going to road race, make sure the trap doors are not left turn. John

Good Deal!!! It's always nice to hear one bust off for the first time. Get a driveshaft in it and try some burnouts; the exhaust is optional!!! John

So now you're going to build a really nice splitter to demolish on the loading ramp? :biggrin: jt