waddiejohn

My 71 has a blue wire running from the rear if the fuse box to the rear of the car wherethe electric fuel pumps are mounted on the later cars and is switched with the ignition. I tied my electric pump to it and have had no problems for two years now.

I bought a 71 with after market A/C and the guy used zip ties to pull the hose away from the pulley. It worked. I clamped some rubber to the hose in such a way that it rested on the compressor housing and held the hose away from the pulley as a temporary measure. I removed the A/C when I swapped engines as it didn't work very well anyway and I'd rather use the newer style mount and put the compressor on the other side of the engine.

I'd check out the community college in your area. A lot of them used to have machine tool technology classes. A lot of the time the older guy's will tell you stuff if you ask specific questions, maybe how to determine correct speeds and feeds or how to cut an internal thread, cutter angles or whatever. Once you get them talking you learn all kinds of stuff. Maybe ask them about the most interesting jobs they've done to break the ice and be sincerely interested in what they tell you. It always seemed to me that I took six months or more to be accepted then people sort of know if you are sincere and willing to listen and learn.

I'm happy for you. Your "Z" is awesome and I've spent hours looking over your photo's. Congratulations, a much deserved win for you.

The job situation really is bad right now. I've never had a problem getting a job, but now I can seem to buy one. I'm a little bit old and don't really want to move, but will if I must, I guess. The jobs I'm seeing doing the same work I had been doing are paying $10.00-$15.00 less per hour than what I was making when the company moved off shore the first of the year. I considered going back to gunsmithing and darned if I didn't find an opening in a fair sized shop. When I called they said they'd pay $10-$15 per hour. I told the head hunter that they might get a young guy right out of trade school for that but I'm not hurting that bad yet. I'd recommend you young guy's and girl's do all you can to stay in school and get the degree if at all possible. It will help although right now a lot of educated people are out of work too. I wish you all luck getting through this mess. Waddie

Gee, I'm not the only one that does that between naps.

An old timer told me a long long time ago that if you get too much of the fumes from welding galvanized materials you could drink a quart of milk and it would keep you from getting sick. I don't know, bit I do know it makes you feel like crap.

Ok, good deal of info here. I'd about given up on any response, but the wait was worth it. Glad you mentioned the engine offset as I would have set it up centered too. I guess most humans like symmetry. I sure appreciate your efforts and response. Waddie

Thanks again 74_5.0 You nailed it right on the head regarding the info I was looking for and the right side bias was a bonus. Did you use the frame rails as the datum for your angle measurment?

74_5.0, Thank you, that's more like what I was looking for. Good thread. You've done a lot of good work.

I have won half of the tickets that I have fought over the years. It was kind of fun. I actually had one officer recommend that I be found guilty with points only and no fine because I researched a lot of stuff and asked him thirty or forty questions on the stand. With your story about the speedometer you could plead not guilty then explain sincerely that you believed you were donig the speed limit at the time. If you are sincere and not trying to B.S. the judge they can be pretty darn reasonable.

Snork, thanks for the reply. I actually did read JTR's book some time ago, but was hoping for some specific numbers from people that had the Ford 5.0 and their engine location relative to some point on the car. Blue Oval would have been a good input, but he doesn't seem to come here any more.

Send a few regiments of those to the Middle East and the bad guys would be so weirded out they'd never mess with us again.LOL

I forgot to say that I don't care if your firewall has been moved. If you have data I'd like to see it if you're willing to share. Thanks, Waddie

I'm looking for info on front to rear weight ratio and dimensions from the front spindle centerline to a datum on the engine block or stock engine mount for a 5.0 H.O. with stock T-5. Right now this is a stock bodied car. I'll keep searching, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet. Thanks for any info. Waddiejohn

Boy did I have a brain fart. In my minds eye I saw the plate itself and responded that I'd use a milling machine. Never mind. Sorry I butted in.

I'd say use a milling machine.

Sorry for not responding, I'm not a blogger. I just got here by accident. IPA is Isopropal Alcohol. Waddie

Ain't love grand............

This is all very interesting. I'd like to know when the tape idea came about. The last bolt gun I built was in 1980 and I did it the way we did back then which was the way Roy Dunlap did it in the fifties. I wonder if they are more accurate now than then. Guns are weird animals anyway. Some things work that shouldn't so I try to keep an open mind. I once rebarreled a 1917 Enfield for a helicopter pilot out of Davis Monthan Air Force base. Made a 300 Win. Mag. out of it. It shot half minute using the old way of bedding. Anyway he told me to keep his old barrel which looked like a sewer pipe inside from shooting corrosive ammo and the rest of the stuff from his conversion and I threw it under my bench where it layed for a year or so. Finally business was slack and I was bored so I rethreaded the old barrel and cut a new chamber in .30-06 and installed it on a Ted Williams FN Mauser action then did the finish inletting on a Bishop stock. I installed a Redfield peep sight and a Lyman ramp front sight. The barrel is 19" long and it kicked pretty good with just the plastic butt plate on it. Just for kicks I loaded up some 180 grain Sierra SPBT bullets over 52 grains of 4350 and went to the range. At 100 yards, five shot groups could be covered with a dime and you could do it all day long. I used to get a kick out of going shooting with friends and showing how well it shot then showing them the barrel. It shot about an inch at 200 yards, but I never really went out any further. I finally shot some lead bullets through it and it has shoot worth a darn since. It is sitting in the gun safe waiting for someday. If that day ever comes I'll play with it some more. MAG58, I believe time and ammo are the real test as you have said. When your accuracy went away after your 1000 rounds, I take it that you just rebedded your rifle using the tape and it was restored? Thanks for the info, John

Superpickle, your right I'm sure, and one never knows where he might find himself. I've always liked low altitude stuff and if you could blow stuff up it would be even neater. Right now I'll have my fun with Search and Rescue, but who knows. I'm looking for a job and might find something interesting.

Why do you need a fork lift for a transmission?

Thanks for trying. I think I'll see if someone at the NRA might have tech knowledge on this. I also heard that there is a benchrest rifle builder locally. If I can find him maybr he'll tell me what his current practice is.

I did a search and found a couple of sites right off the bat that said to tape the recoil lug as you said. I wonder if you might remember where you read the theory behind the idea. I'd really like to know the history and science behind it or if someone just thought it up and tried it. I will certainly have to give it a shot, (pun intended). Doing it that way would certainly help the action come out of the stock easier. With a fully encapsulated recoil lug they could be a bear to seperate even after the initial seperation.

Just goes to show I guess. I've been out of it too long perhaps. I've never heard of taping the recoil lug. That's what prompted my reply. I'll do some research. It might be some to have fun with.