ToplessZ

IS this what you guys are talking about using to section your struts with? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2347499449&category=303 Im getting to that point finally

Well The seller for me is I want the Reliability factor to be high run on cheap gas and have a sleeper engine. I dont really want something that will wake the dead. I want something that sounds stock and surprises everyone dumb enough to fall for it. I would definatly like to hear more input on how to get the same detonation resistance in a different combo.

Read that above linked article that will answer those questions. 60 over on a 400 block most say is too much. 40 over is about the max there.but the difference in going 30 and 40 over wouldnt not hardly be noticable and then you have no room to go in the future. Yes it can be zero decked.

Wonder if I can post yet. Yes those are the rods I saw but there were others too. I want input on this asap so I can start part sourcing.

I would love to hear some more comments on the engine build from the above article. How about an iron vortec headed version with the 305 vortec castings. The article is a few years old now and 6.300 rods can be had on ebay for not alot. I want to hear some input here or even something from someone who has done the same thing. IT would be a killer sleeper engine too. Im really stuck on the idea even after buying my aluminun 70 cc heads for my 383 plans.

I thought about doing this. Do you have pics. I would think it would work but then again I could be wrong. Why not mount it up and show us what it looks like

Well Id like storage to be my last option. I really would like to get it up here. Id just like to not spend an arm and a leg doing it. Thanks for any leads you guys are all awesome.

Hey guys It is time to pick up my car that spotfitz has so kindly been storing for me. It is located in the dallas ft worth texas vicinity and needs to make it to southern ohio. Hurst auto transport made a quote of 720.00 and a 2 week ship time. Are there any other companies or someone you know that could do it cheaper in the same amount of time or faster. I need some quick responses. Trying to save money and get it shipped asap. Spotfitz says there is a storage problem that may put my car in danger He has been a huge help in keeping it for me now I need to move it. Any ideas guys. Thanks

HEY I see a Killer paint job...oh yea so everyone else already noticed. Is it just me or do the rear fender flares have a lip on them. I know they dont come that way but thats what it looke like to me.

I had the same problem as david I was dumping mass fuel from leaky injector and I had my manifold glowing clear down to the cat. I would try the color test zach mentioned.

grrrrr I want to see these cant get any of the links to work BQR280Z wrote:

Yeah ive used the good old wire wheel and a drill many times yeah it works but the vibrations will drive you nuts and having a sore hand from putting pressure on the wheel the next day kinda sucks too. Navel jelly works but doesnt remove paint or severe rust. Guess Ill have to carefully try and experiment.

Well I dont have a sand blaster but there a are some parts I need de rusted. My seat rails have rust inside but a wire wheel wont fit. Same with a spare front crossmember I have. The rust is just a tad much for the navel jelly treatment although I have had great luck with that. I was also hoping that the hydrochloric acid might remove the paint also. I was thinking of just getting enough for those parts. Maybe Ill try a little as an experiment on some peice of rusted scrap junk. Any more input.

ouch not the pawn guys....well a z is always worth it. Gonna have a killer car Mike Im sure you are gaining quite a few fans that all want to see this car done soon. Gonna be bad when it is. And like everyone one says GET WRENCHIN.

Hey guys wondering if any of you know of any chemicals that can be purchased easily to remove rust. I was at wal mart and found a product...the name has left my mind. Anyway its like 6 dollars for about a quart not enough for much of anything if you have to dip it. I was wondering if hydrochloric acid might work to eat rust. I know that would yeild no protection so the part would have to be coated right away but I would like to find something more cost effective. IF not the local lowe's where might I find something that works without spending an arm and a leg. Thanks guys

I saw the face

I know the vette unit is alot lighter then the datsun stock unit. If that helps

just be careful using a primer for your topcoat you will end up with rust as the primer is porous. I have seen several cars painted flat black primer and then clear coated. It gives the flat a high gloss its a cheap alternative to black topcoat then clear.

I dont even think a 10 mm adapter is possible a 4 to five lug adapter if made properly so it will balance is a 2 piece design.

is there any reason why the z32 rotors wont work?

Ok guys all I need to know is what you are running for rotors on your 240sx 5 lug rear brake upgrades. I know several have done this where are you at..... I need to know soon

I want to do the 5 lug swap on the rear of my 240 and I need to know which 300zx rotors to use with the 240sx calipers and the mm brackets. Thanks guys

Im kinda curiuos myself

Hmm looks like I need to sell that head to someone. That cam is in the vb catalog for 389.95 supposedly the list is 487.44 sure not a small block chevy price.

Keep using that seach function and you will find all the info you need. I just bought a 240 for 600 bucks needs some prep and paint and an engine. The guy that is storing it for me just bought a comple turbo engine and accessories for 100 bucks!!! if you play your cards right you could stay under budget. You arent that bad off to buy a 260 or 280 if you remove the bumpers and go fiberglass you can get the weight much closer to the 240's. Good luck once you have a zcar youll never go back.