Zetsaz

I'd love to see some better pictures of how you have that braced. I have some rattling on mine in that area that's driving me nuts. So much so that I'm willing to get rid of the front diff crossmember altogether since I have a top mount. With my resonator in the middle I just don't have great clearance if I drop it too far (and with the angles it has, dropping it too far leans the pipe towards the driver side of that little opening where it's already bumping.

Added a resonator to the midpipe yesterday with a vibrant straight through piece and shortened up the mid pipe by a quarter inch. Made a super basic jig to fit things up the same. 100% worth it. Downright tame at lower rpm now so droning around town doesn't bother me with the windows down. Looks like my ground clearance has been ruined however. Was hoping it wouldn't be toooooo bad but i already scraped a tiny bit on a particularly rough spot coming out of my alley so i plan on dropping by my friend's again to add a kick up and maybe one more brace near the diff or the transmission crossmember to help make sure I don't get occasional exhaust rattles

Mostly just cruising and shaking things down lately. Running much better and very smooth after some help from Richard Boyk to adjust settings. This thing is SMOOOOOOTH... if it wasn't for needing just a couple tweaks to keep the exhaust from rattling on occasion haha. The brake fade is noticeable after a spirited drive earlier. I think one of the first upgrades soon is a turbo blanket, and for major upgrades for next summer i might be getting the Z car garage brakes. A bit burned out on custom stuff. I think I'm okay paying more for a really well built kit that'll get the job done right without a bunch of reading and tinkering on my part

I run a mix of T bolt clamps and worm gear clamps right now because it's what I have on hand and they honestly work fine at my boost levels. I only have one support on the passenger side and it's to help make sure that the piping running under the engine doesn't dip more than the half inch or so it's already lower than the front crossmember. I would think with even shorter runs you don't need any bracing since it's fixed on one end by the turbo and on the other by the intercooler and brackets there. You should really only have 2-3 couplers between those spots which is enough to flex but still well supported so the entire length doesn't move much. If I upgrade any clamps I think I'll probably be using some higher quality worm gear clamps. I feel like the t bolts I have just occupy way more space than necessary, but better clamps will probably cost me close to $100 for every place I need.

What overflow tank is that?? Looks like a nice fit. I might try moving to that on my mishimoto radiator.

post pics! I was lucky enough to drive it before it sold. Super fun car.

I think other than their OEM bits they just have generic hardware store stuff in whatever the closest size is. Your diameter issue isore severe, but I've noticed the closest stuff i find is usually fractionally shorter than the OEM hardware which is why I had that issue. Protunerz might be running into the same issue on some of their kits. Still waiting on the rest of my hardware after they told me some of the hardware they got for the thermostat kits was too short. I know for a fact my bolts holding in the lower thermostat right now are shorter than stock and and really hoping to replace those soon with the new stainless bits

Was leaking kind of substantially from the cover but I'm pretty sure the only spray was out the pump. The higher rpms from highway cruising plus the fan being right next to it helped it splatter all over. Combine that with being thinner from running at operating temps and it made it easy to spread all over. Got it running a couple hours ago and sprayed engine degreaser all over the passenger side of the bay and the suspension components that got oiled up. Drove out to a car wash and hosed everything down thoroughly. I think it might be cleaner and drier than it was when I first got the new setup running haha. No signs of leaking so far after a double check and quick highway drive so I think the problem is solved. Will know for sure on a longer drive tomorrow.

New bolts and metal spacers purchased. Pics of the oil everywhere included, plus the old bolts (with the black on the end sort of indicating how many threads were actually grabbing) vs new bolts for the pump.

Well the first failures of longer drives have shown up. Had two MAJOR oil leaks (sprays more like) from the back of the valve cover and from the oil pump. I thought the gaskets failed, but it seems less likely now that I've torn into it. The spacers I used for the new coil pack mounts aren't as sturdy as I thought and can't apply enough pressure on the valve cover without distorting. Got a new gasket anyway, but I'm replacing them with metal spacers this afternoon. The oil pump might be more serious, but after pulling it it looks like the stainless bolts I had from Z Car Depot at some point are too short. They only have 3 or 4 threads into the aluminum on the timing cover and cross threaded. Got a new gasket for that as well, but also chased the threads and buying longer bolts today to get better thread engagement and a better seal. Hopefully that solves my problems, but there's oil EVERYWHERE on the passenger side from my drive home. All over the passenger suspension, on the wheel, and splattered onto the passenger fender and door from spinning around on the wheel while warm and thinned out. Lots of cleaning to do.

No, but I heard my friends like that haha. Definitely sounds a bit like a diesel, but I'm not a fan. My current cam is already enough at idle. I love the sound much more once it smooths out during accel. I have the head cooling mod now which is my coolant feed for the turbo. Was suggested by a builder in Vancouver who works on a lot of these. So far 0 temp issues, but I'm not on boost a lot, and honestly as a street car I just don't see myself driving it in a way that would get me there. This is already overkill for my use. You're totally right about the torque drop off. Considering just how hard it pulls when I'm barely getting to into the 5000s, I don't see myself using that supposed 7200 rpm redline either. Maybe eventually that'll become a tuning thing to limit boost at lower rpms, but that'll have to wait until I sort my current boost creep. Moving out of the country soon, so that's unlikely haha. just trying to enjoy it as much as I can this summer before it's stored at my brother's.

Pretty sure I have the same Tial actuator you have. Other than your stroker setup, I think some of our stuff is very similar at this point. I'm not sure I should be seeing a bit over 20psi if you were seeing 15, especially since I haven't even taken it close to redline. Need to get a boost gauge so I don't have to stare at a screen to monitor it. It's part of the reason I'm playing it so safe right now. Can't just eyeball a gauge. Rear end is is a 3.9 CLSD from a Z31. Not sure I wanna go through the trouble of pulling the turbo to open up the hot side right now, but if everything else checks out I'll consider that down the line. For now, I think my stock compression, plus the top end of my VE map running a bit rich, plus my timing and AFR targets being safe maps from @Chickenmanwill keep things safe even if I'm boosting more than expected. Just won't take it to redline at all in case it creeps even more.

Okay now that I'm making boost and starting to work on the VE maps it's SO fun. Took a break from tuning and engine stuff last night to install the headliner. What I thought would be 2-3 hours took 7... fortunately it turned out mostly okay, especially for a DIY job and the noise levels are noticeably better now that a bunch of holes in the car (wiring etc) that technically lead right outside aren't pumping wind and exhaust noise into the cabin. They are good mods.... because I hit 20psi yesterday according to my data logs with no issues haha. This is technically a bad thing because it means I'm over boosting. Not sure if I have the actuator arm just a couple turns too tight or if it has a leak somewhere. Might try to figure out a way to test the Tial actuator with my air compressor. There's also the small chance I was shipped the wrong one. I'll check the part numbers and make sure I wasn't accidentally sent their 22psi actuator instead of the 10psi I ordered. Anyway, here's a poor vertical video I sent my brother of some baby pulls i was doing on a a rural dead end road with a looooong straight. Wide open and super convenient for some mild testing. Including my squeaky clutch i fixed when i got home. Didn't even get it to 5k here. Once I was comfortable that the charge pipes were holding the pressure I pushed it a bit more in 1st and second after double checking the VE map. Took it to about 5.5k getting onto the interstate and honestly it pulls SO much harder than expected, but that may just be the 22psi haha. The block was fully balanced by Top End including the balanced crankshaft according to the build sheet I managed to get, and the basic cam info I got supposedly claims a 7200 redline on the cam... can't imagine what that's like since I haven't even hit 6k yet while tuning Snapchat-1473947449.mp4

Not entirely sure yet because I've only barely made boost. Was making like 3psi yesterday and realized a couple clamps weren't tight. This morning when I felt like I was ready to try a short pull in first I didn't even hit peak boost because the coupler on the compressor housing got blown off haha. I think I DEFINITELY want to go with flat top pistons on this eventually to help the off boost responsiveness, but part me almost wants to go with an ITB 3UZ in the super long run if this thing ever blows. I kind of like the simplicity of NA.... that or I'm just used to it and will completely changed my my mind once this thing is properly dialed in. Turbo noises are definitely satisfying though

Between the all the transmission and finalizing the last few pieces of the engine I've been working on this thing almost all my free time and the baby mistakes are adding up. That being said here's the engine bay update, now with completed charge piping and some mediocre wiring and vacuum hoses I plan to redo completely and tidy up at some point. Next steps, some of which are just fixing my own mistakes are: -Get new shift knob at my door because I've been running without haha. Datsun threads are M8 and all the later Nissans use M10 -Check and adjust oil feed. Dripping just a bit while running -Adjust exhaust more. Occasionally starts rattling. May just need to tighten the hangers at the back. -Tighten couplers.... Only made 3psi boost earlier because I didn't have the couple on the throttle tightened 🤦🏻 -Make top bracket(s) for intercooler. Just running some flimsy brackets on bottom. Charge piping is helping keep it stable but it shouldn't have to

Well she's moving! Charge piping isn't done and my coils might be wired funny because it only runs on wasted COP, no sequential spark right now. That or my tooth #1 angle is off or my trigger wheel is upside down, or or or.... But she moves! Friend is helping me with the hot side charge piping tomorrow that's holding me back. Hopefully I can figure out some settings and get it running smoother asap

Smart move. $400 for machining only is highly excessive. I had trouble finding anyone that did small batch work and ended up at a local machine shop that deals almost exclusively with marine work do mine for $80. I feel like that was REALLY cheap, but considering how little work it is for a shop with the right tools, anything over $150 seems excessive. it's really only opening up 3 holes plus some clearance on the thick part of the bearing opening for the thicker 71c gear.

Transmission in. Coolant fittings for the turbo done. The silver lining to pulling the transmission is I accidentally used the thinner Datsun clutch fork when I first installed it instead of the noticeably thicker "71C" fork. Comparison in the second pic. Checklist for first start is just -Remount coil packs -Refill trans fluid (Redline MT90 arriving today) -Install shifter -Refill coolant -Install Vacuum hose for wastegate and BOV -Burn new tune onto ECU (Already updated settings for new injectors, removed IAC, and new AFR Target Map) Technically optional for just a first start. -Finish intercooler hot side piping (Running into some issues with fitting things the way I had planned)

Transmission problems SOLVED. A check ball was missing during assembly and the selector over travelled and got stuck out of place but on reinspection they also noticed one bit near a synchro was assembled backwards? can't remember which piece specifically but apparently one piece is nearly identical front to back and wasn't set right which made it tough to go into gear to begin with. The shop redid the work for free and got it back to me same day! Will try to get it back in tonight and assemble the last of the coolant fittings which are arriving tomorrow. Unless I'm missing something i might be able to try a first start tomorrow night. If I'm missing anything hopefully it's by the end of the week

Well... the engine itself is dangerously close to firing. Just waiting on a few fittings and some BSPT plugs then I'd be running again. Transmission problem doesn't seem like what I thought. Seems like the stick is in 5th, but the trans is in neutral. Started the laborious process of pulling the transmission yet again. Will be taking it back to the shop that rebuilt it to see what the deal is. Seems like the selector forks aren't lining up or something because the stick goes to "neutral" but towards the right with some force and in "fifth" it has a lot of play up and down but neither is actually selecting a gear. Silver lining - I accidentally used the thinner Datsun clutch fork instead of the mutch thicker 240sx one, so I guess I at least get the chance to swap them out now, and triple check that I actually put the right release bearing in.

All that work kind of makes a carbon fiber panel seem cheap haha. I think if i have to replace my hood ever I may not even bother with repair, might just go straight to a Seibon hood and try to paint match

The distance you're picturing is exaggerated. I just measured and it's about 2-2.5" lower like Rossman mentioned.

I'm not sure I'm understanding your description correctly. You may be thinking of it backwards. Unless you somehow went even taller than a 280z radiator, OE 280z hoses should work for either application especially with a straight, with the small caveat that you may have to cut a bit of the end going into the radiator if the bend becomes too tight. They're slightly longer than you'll need if you have a 240z radiator. I still have my 280z radiator sitting around. Never got around to recycling it (started leaking). I'll take some measurements when I'm home today and let you know exactly how much higher up the 240z outlet is. Sadly, my 280 hoses are cut, so I can't just eyeball if they'll kink or work as is for you. PS - if I didn't already have the Mishimoto and wasn't already hemorrhaging money trying to finish this thing I'd ask ask to just make a second radiator and send it my way. Looks like a very nice piece haha

I may take you up on that. Underneath the car, the fuel lines are one of my biggest frustrations. They work fine, but I just flared them for EFI rubber hose for now. Trying to get my cousin to help me 3D print some mounts to run along the frame rail, right now they're just sort of hanging with only a couple of clamps in the back and front and zip tied to the brake lines which are more properly mounted. Stock rubber mounts don't work since I upgraded to 3/8" stainless line. it's not too bad since I only have very short sections of rubber, especially at the front. The rail is deadheaded and the FPR is running "returnless" style. I've heard that's not ideal with boost, but I figure if the "Medusa" Z is running that way with much more power than I'll ever have and Z Car Garage didn't bother to change it when they did a lot of work for him, then I'm probably fine.

The radiator is physically taller in a 280z. I'm sure a 280z hose would work fine on a modified radiator with a straight outlet, especially closer to 240z dimensions since you don't need to lengthen the hose. At the very worst, you'd be trimming an inch or two off the end if the new bend from having the radiator outlet a bit higher somehow created a kink in the hose. I trimmed my 280z hose to fit a Mishimoto radiator which only comes in the 240z style with the lower outlet upturned. Z Car Depot has aftermarket 280z upper and lower radiator hoses as well as OEM units, the Mishimoto hoses are only made for the 240z upturn but seem excessively expensive.