Zetsaz

I'll check it out. Was kind of just planning on throwing it in the back of my Infiniti haha. I travel very light. At worst I think I'd just have to take the bellhousing off and carry it in the back seat on a tarp and some padding. Won't even necessarily need the bellhousing but I can give it to a friend who had his damaged from a bad road that probably fractured in the intense heat up there last week. If he doesn't want it I'll probably just toss the gearset with tail housing and bearing cover/fork in the trunk on a tarp. I already know an fs5 gearset fits back there with plenty of room to spare from when I redid the front bearings on my hardbody truck but have never had to load the bellhousing.

Update, got the transmission! $200 seems like an awful good deal even if I end up having to rebuild. People are asking way too much these days. It shifts well and I'll be de greasing and power washing to clean it up. Will have to figure out a way to carry it up to Washington with me, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Included an ISR short shifter and my understanding is the SR20 trans had better synchros on 2nd (and 3rd?) as well as a bigger shift fork and a reverse synchro like the late 240sx transmissions which were an improvement over the earlier KA transmissions.

First part is a window roller. If you look straight down your door with the window rolled down you'll notice there are actually two places you can install them. Some people add a second one on each door which apparently helps keep the window in at speeds and makes it eeasier to roll. It didn't fix my issues but I'm fairly certain my roller and scissor assemblies need to be adjusted. The new reproduction ones don't slot in as nicely as oem. I found they're somehow both tougher to fit in, and slide around more once they're on... require some bending and tweaking. https://zcardepot.com/products/window-glass-roller-bumper-guide-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=bd124a1a7&_ss=r Second part is a door end rubber seal https://zcardepot.com/collections/door/products/door-end-rubber-seals-b-pillar-pair-240z-260z-280z

I may have just lucked out on an SR20 transmission here in Utah... will confirm on Saturday. My trans was never going to hold the power and was actually getting close to rebuild time as it was so I'm pretty excited.

Might just be that it's too much compressor. I don't know enough about turbo sizing though, so I was sticking with what I had which has been mostly proven to reliably suit my goals. I'm a little surprised your power falls off that early though. We'll see what happens once it gets going. Just got the swing gate sent to me and it looks really well made. Check that link for some pictures. Gonna aim for about 11psi as my base boost and just leave it at that until other stuff gets sorted before worrying about a boost controller and trying to push it much. I'm slightly injector limited right now anyway.

The restoration program dimensions in this PDF might be helpful, but I'm not sure anyone has a CAD file of the whole thing ready to go. 240ZRestorationprogram (1).pdf

Currently in Utah, but opted to not drive the Datsun and take a break for a while. Lots of changes recently. -Switched to a Mishimoto radiator after my radiator developed a leak and I didn't feel like just patching mine up. -Installed the Turbo block and got the base timing set and a couple short test drives to tweak the VE map with my old NA parts -Bolted the AC condenser. Top of it bolts straight to the radiator core support at two points, and bottom used a single bent bracket I made that bolts to the center then to original front valence brace. -Installed a proper Aeromotive FPR and ran a proper return since my base fuel pressure was much higher than ideal. Used the blockoff for the in-tank regulator I was using before. -Committed to the internally regulated turbo I got with the block (Fairly certain it's a T3/T04e .63ar 57 trim) -After chatting with Godzilla Raceworks about my goals, I decided to stay internally gated and bought a 5 bolt "ultimate internal wastegate valve" from ATP that should flow much better than a stock internal wastegate and transitions into a 3in v-band. That, a new actuator, and bracket for the larger compressor housing cost me less than just a new internal wastegate, never mind the cost of the external wastegate mods. Hoping it's a good compromise of performance/cost/packaging for my use. Unfortunately something about changing the block and the new mounts changed my driveshaft angle enough to get some serious vibrations. Thought the clutch wasn't centered at first, but the noise is only under load and not really noticeable vibrations when free revving to the same rpm. Also need to roll the rear driver arch slightly more. Rubbing a lot while driving right now, or it's some kind of CV noise when the load is that direction. Another thing to inspect. Burned out slightly after all that and not really in the mood to work on it in all this heat, so I'll be back at it sometime in August, hopefully finishing turbo stuff, AC lines, electric fans, and maybe even an upgraded transmission.

I was alright getting the compressor and bracket (didn't get the hoses), but honestly for cost saving if you're trying to save every penny it'd be cheaper to get the same compressor elsewhere. Unless you're sticking with a stock system, there's no point to using their hoses

OHHHHHH.... My mistake, it was Nostalgic Air, I don't know why I wrote Vintage Air. Edited the other post for clarity.

... I thought you knew, you were the one who directed me to them haha. They're the only ones that make a bolt in, and for the L24 guys it has provisions for the smog pump and bracket. Unfortunately that means the included belts are too short and the other is too long. Yeah, I'm kinda pinned between putting the fresh block in and dealing with sluggishness while turbo stuff gets done, or just dealing with like half a quart of oil every few hundred miles and running my engine for the rest of the summer. Both aren't fun despite being completely usable as a cruiser.

AC compressor and bracket arrived. Picked these up from (EDIT: Nostalgic Air, not Vintage Air). Their prices are going up and I'm hoping they start offering just the bracket but honestly I think if you have even mild fabrication abilities you can make the bracket for less money. I'm a bit burned out though so I wanted something "off the shelf" and just chopped a bit of the top off that's normally for bolting on the 240z smog pump. Currently it's on the turbo engine. Big debate right now is rebuilding the T3/T04e turbo I have with it, or running it NA temporarily while I wait on manifold mods for an external wastegate to be done. Only reason I'm not considering just waiting is I'll be traveling with the car to be with family most of the summer and I can't get the parts done before I leave... But my current engine, despite running great is burning a lot of oil. Might need new rings Currently leaning towards just dealing with the lower compression and slight sluggishness so it's at least in the bay. Exhaust manifold and intercooler are easy enough to swap in later.

Cylinders 5 and 6 tended to run hotter than the rest. Poor coolant flow through the head. The head cooling mod taps into 5 and 6 above the intake runners and feeds them coolant from the thermostat housing where it's coldest. There are a variety of ways to do it that you can read about. The new JeffP head gasket made by Cometic that you can buy from Zcardepot now is also supposed to help.

Well folks... I think I might have scored with the engine I got. Managed to get in touch with the original owner and got a build spreadsheet. Lots done. -Reground cam, roughly 480 lift (will have to pull up specs when I'm home) -Dual heavy duty valve springs -Port matched and smoothed intake ports -OEM solid lifters -New rings, rehoned block (checked honing marks with a borescope to ensure no damage) -Cylinder head cooling mod on 5 and 6 already done -New timing kit from Japan -Other refresh work, and I'm assuming a valve job at one point. Sadly, the turbo needs to be replaced or rebuilt and I'll still need boost control and intercooler, so the expensive stuff will still add up, BUT since my engine is burning excessive oil, I'm tempted to just pay up for turbo/intercooler stuff and get this thing in already and run it gently and do the transmission later

Front control arms still aren't done because I've been slightly burned out on car work. Finishing them up this weekend and ordering remaining AC parts though. Also... That hardbody I picked up years ago is a champ. Picked up this "free to me" engine last night in exchange for some spare parts. Guy seems to have changed directions and mostly just wanted it out of the way. Some pieces seem questionable, but a lot of it looks pretty good and it already has the common head cooling mod for cylinders 5 and 6. Since mine is running okay aside from some oil burning, I'll be building this really slowly and properly. Spending my money on finishing the AC and a trans upgrade before this goes in. Now I won't have to put the car out for a long time, just whatever it takes to swap in the two blocks.

Ahh! Forgot about the recent bug. Yeah, has to be manually fixed by a moderator as was mentioned. It's unfortunate 😕

You need to be a donating member to post in that section.

Front control arms arrived with the accompanying tension control rods. Won't have weird issue with the stock ones affecting my spring rate now and will finally correct the front passenger caster. Steering rack has some issues, I think I may inspect and replace bearing (if I can even find the right parts) and regrease, since I have to realign now anyway. There's a chance I've come across a basically free turbo engine too... we'll see what I can use off it. Not sure I even want to run it, but at worst it's spare parts I can part out and make some money. Main concern is still my transmission not being able to hold much, but the trans costs are the issue with literally any option I go with 😕 Basically flywheel back is my biggest cost no matter what I do with my power options, and no one choice is notably cheaper than another.

I don't think anyone's saying don't be critical. The other thread just got locked for going off topic, don't make this one go the same direction or get thrown it in the shed, you should know nothing here gets deleted short of users editing their own posts or broken links/images. @Joe0690, @Ben280 is your go-to for how some of the parts perform if you want to ask someone with genuine experience with the products in hard use. Unfortunately I think I've only seen one install of the full track attack kit from Hell-Z and have seen no updates in a year at least. Most Datsun folks just don't have the money to run it, and I think if you look at comments from @JMortensen you'll note the real world benefit of the kit is questionable, or at least unproven. FWIW, I'm happy with the rear arms and I'm currently waiting on the fronts so I can dial in my front caster, but I'm also pretty much entirely spirited street use and cruising on those parts.

Where are the mods? This thread has moved beyond the scope of the 8.8 subframe specifically. Those who want to discuss reviews of Apex in general should start another thread. I think we've gotten off track. Let's keep it to comments about the practicality or viability of the kit as an option, or current thoughts based on recent experience with it.

Teacher perspective, and as someone satisfied with my Apex products and intend to buy more: The best lesson I ever learned from my university director was "it's not mistakes that bother me, it's complacency." Ohm, from every interaction and experience I've had with him and others, has made a consistent effort to improve products and delivery. If you're an early customer, I think it's a bit unfair to be as critical as some have been if the problem has already been mutually resolved.

I'll agree with this, but it's why I mention specifically that pretty much all the other products have had positive reviews.

On the contrary, I like my rear control arms and plan on ordering the fronts. @Ben280has the rear subframe and can tell you his experience with it. Seems like more and more of the LS swap guys from the Swapped S30 Owners facebook group are using his front crossmember as well. I think the 8.8 kit, especially if you also go with the axles (which are outsourced), is the only thing I've heard negative reviews of. I feel like this has already been discussed endlessly in this thread and Ohm even had a chance to explain the situation regarding delays with the 8.8 kit. My two cents: if you haven't had an opportunity to resolve it with the company directly it's best not to pile onto small companies providing pretty niche parts for an already niche market. At the very least it's good to provide pictures of what your issues are and mention when you ordered/received since some problems maybe have been resolved since then, this past year in particular poses lots of issues with outsourcing labor and materials even for large established car companies who even have their own supply chains for some things.

Tough choice but I feel like I should just commit to the gauges. If I sell my Infiniti I'd have the money for an engine swap and gauges or a solid L series build already, and in a swap especially, I'd need the new gauges anyway unless I start messing with sensor thread adapters or resistors. Second casualty from the drive: the bumper brackets from Skillard are fairly well designed, but I think the extra weight of the metal bumper instead of fiberglass is creating a bit of a spring effect and the bumper seems to be moving enough on really harsh bumps to rub on the headlight buckets. I was careful to provide clearance when I installed it so it wasn't too close, but it looks like it's moving enough to rub and has rubbed through the paint on some small spots Going to put some masking tape on it for the drive back, but I think it's time to experiment with more clearance or some clever custom rubber bump stops or rubber strips I can attach.

I'm green with envy.

I'll keep that in mind! Updates: CV Bolts: Now at my brother's place in North Hollywood and got to check on some stuff. some of the bolts from the CVs to the adapters came loose. Strangely, I don't think it's just that they came loose, I think they were never totally flush to begin with. The plate on the end of them made it near impossible to properly tighten and I think as they've settled in, the 1/8" or so they might have been off on one end showed up. Was getting some oscillating noise from the back, but only under load. Everything is tightened up now, but I'm going to reinstall the bolts one at a time with loctite now that they're settled and flush when I'm back home. Speedo issues: Speedometer cable stopped working somewhere before San Francisco and I thought maybe it was my gauge. My volt/fuel was already not working, so I figured it was the gauge since I had a new cable. Nope..... turns out the cable tore a few inches up from the speedo cog at the transmission. Have done the math on gearing enough times that I mostly know how fast I'm going, and in 5th I know exactly how fast I'm going just off the tach. Not sure if I wanna just buy a new cable or make it an excuse to replace the rest of my gauges already. Pricey, but now that I have my daily car completely paid and made some money from a small investment deal with my brother it might be worth it.