Zetsaz

Did the 12" spal fans not fit the shroud? I've been wanting to use that shroud as an off the shelf option with some spal pullers.

Yeah, special characters break links, you have to be careful with thread titles. Should really make a sticky on the FAQ or on the rules page about that so people are aware, you're not the first to do it, and at least yours is a bit more obvious than some of the other weird ones that have broken and had to be remade in the past.

Universally, it seems like the reviews are "these parts are good quality... if you ever get them" I think the owner is Paulo? Pablo? The business has had questionable reviews at best and I wouldn't trust them anywhere near the same level as, say, Skillard or Apex. Some people spent the better part 6 months or more waiting on parts from RetroSpec. I wouldn't hold my breath. Your best bet is to try calling and threaten to have your credit or paypal refund the purchase if they don't follow through on your order soon.

New purchases arrived this week as I make progress on the turbo bits among other things: -3" stainless exhaust tubing, flex coupler, two V band joints, and O2 bung -Picked up the bellhousing. Machining only cost me $80! Started degreasing and cleaning it slowly so I can paint it in aluminum paint like I did the rear housing. Debating whether or not I want to just get it rebuilt for peace of mind now or run it as-is until it starts to bother me. -Skillard front splitter, mostly already installed, but I have threaded holes where bolts broke... and then my bolt extractor also broke The main piece is fully functonal as-is (it doesn't normally attach to the radiator core support on a 240z, but is designed to be capable of that for the 280), but the smaller rear attachment that connects it to the engine crossmember is only connected there by one bolt right now. Will have to figure out how to get the broken bolt out. EDIT: I'm about ready to hack up the skillard front grill. While it's a very nice piece and a good change if you're removing the 280 style turn signals, not having the lower portion open when you need to get your hands in there is a huge pain in the ass AND you can't remove it without removing the front bumper. That combined with the flexing in the Skillard front bumper mounts on bumps due to their design (which rubbed off a not-insignificant bit of paint on my headlight buckets near the bumper) makes me want to go back to the older style conversion brackets I had and just cut off the bottom half of the grill for better accessability like original 240z grills had)

The cheapest solution is to modify something available (assuming you have the skills). For most "off the shelf" or bolt-in solution, you're not gonna get much cheaper than CX racing.

I have the same "ultimate internal wastegate" setup as you from ATP. What's that cover you have on your exhaust housing? I think I want to use something similar

Just get the vintage air unit. You'll be better off sourcing similar parts from them in a kit with way more documentation and help. Look through the recent pages of my "musician's therapist" thread if you want to see some pictures

Sorry, was quickly writing this and didn't notice the slip in terminology. Yes it's the shift rod opening and that's the instructions I gave the shop. I've edited the previous post so others don't read it and mess something up as a result of my little mental mistake.

Countershaft bearing opening needs to be opened up for the larger 240sx bearing, and some surface around it machined down to provide clearance for the gear which is a bit wider... longer (?) front to back than the datsun one. Top shift rod opening needs to be opened up a bit as well for the thicker shifter forks/rods And I think that's about it. It's really not about the time and more about the fact that most machine shops just don't seem to take on low volume stuff these days. Shouldn't take much once they get to it. If they don't get to it soon I may just ask for it back and find another shop. Wanted local to avoid paying shipping both ways to have Godzilla Raceworks do it.

Well... As expected, I've called on two separate occasions and both times the machine shop has told me they haven't gotten to it yet despite calling a day or two after they told me it'd be ready. It's "top of the list" right now and will be done "Monday or Tuesday" but I'm not counting on it haha. As soon as I get the bellhousing back and cleaned up the transmission is going in for an inspection and rebuild from a local shop I've trusted before with the transmission in my hardbody

Mild update: Finally making progress after the summer hiatus. The return to in person instruction at my job kept me busy at the tail end of summer into the start off fall, so the car has been sitting on Jack stands for a bit. Finally dropped the transmission and pulled off the bellhousing for the 240sx transmission upgrade. Local shop is taking care of the machining. Transmission crossmember and new driveshaft are both ready to go but I think I'll have the transmission inspected and possibly rebuilt just to save future headache. Some pictures to come when I get the bellhousing back next week and start putting things together

Yeah, the RB can go to 3.4 but MZR seems pretty keen on keeping NA for the purist perspective on past builds. I follow Peter McDonnell and he's also pointed out that it's probably easier to build a high HP L Series than an RB. Considering his builds, I wouldn't doubt it. There's always the chance they're sticking with the L series and using diesel blocks like Rebello has done. Was just curious!

@Derek out of curiousity, is one of your buyers MZR Roadsports in the UK? Was looking more at their 50th anniversary build since they recently did the full reveal of the first one they built. Went to their site and noticed their "Evolution" package comes with a DOHC head. Is that yours? I know the OS Giken head is an option for those high dollar builds, but I can't imagine them going with it when there's a better cost option around.

Info you need is on this handy chart in the link. It's available elsewhere I think but this was the first place I found it. Short answer - yes. Long answer - Even without a vin you can tell by some structural changes that are easily noticeable. Top seatbell mounting point changed after '75 just after the first year of the 280, earlier cars had it mounted to the B pillars, later cars had it mounted on the strut towers, the taillights changed to the later style for the 260z, the 240z had a shorter radiater and accompanying shorter (not as low to the ground) lower radiator support. later models had taller rear strut towers which are noticeably different. The late (77/78) 280z had a completely different rear deck that was sort of an elevated platform and used a space saver instead of full sized spare. Even within the 240z models, in 73 they moved to the bulkier bumper mounts that made the bumper stick out more instead of relatively flush like the earliest models. Hope that helps. If you post pics I'm sure most people here could tell unless there have been extensive exterior and interior mods. https://jdm-car-parts.com/blogs/news/vin-verification-of-us-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx

They're just rota rkr wheels

I'll check it out. Was kind of just planning on throwing it in the back of my Infiniti haha. I travel very light. At worst I think I'd just have to take the bellhousing off and carry it in the back seat on a tarp and some padding. Won't even necessarily need the bellhousing but I can give it to a friend who had his damaged from a bad road that probably fractured in the intense heat up there last week. If he doesn't want it I'll probably just toss the gearset with tail housing and bearing cover/fork in the trunk on a tarp. I already know an fs5 gearset fits back there with plenty of room to spare from when I redid the front bearings on my hardbody truck but have never had to load the bellhousing.

Update, got the transmission! $200 seems like an awful good deal even if I end up having to rebuild. People are asking way too much these days. It shifts well and I'll be de greasing and power washing to clean it up. Will have to figure out a way to carry it up to Washington with me, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Included an ISR short shifter and my understanding is the SR20 trans had better synchros on 2nd (and 3rd?) as well as a bigger shift fork and a reverse synchro like the late 240sx transmissions which were an improvement over the earlier KA transmissions.

First part is a window roller. If you look straight down your door with the window rolled down you'll notice there are actually two places you can install them. Some people add a second one on each door which apparently helps keep the window in at speeds and makes it eeasier to roll. It didn't fix my issues but I'm fairly certain my roller and scissor assemblies need to be adjusted. The new reproduction ones don't slot in as nicely as oem. I found they're somehow both tougher to fit in, and slide around more once they're on... require some bending and tweaking. https://zcardepot.com/products/window-glass-roller-bumper-guide-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=bd124a1a7&_ss=r Second part is a door end rubber seal https://zcardepot.com/collections/door/products/door-end-rubber-seals-b-pillar-pair-240z-260z-280z

I may have just lucked out on an SR20 transmission here in Utah... will confirm on Saturday. My trans was never going to hold the power and was actually getting close to rebuild time as it was so I'm pretty excited.

Might just be that it's too much compressor. I don't know enough about turbo sizing though, so I was sticking with what I had which has been mostly proven to reliably suit my goals. I'm a little surprised your power falls off that early though. We'll see what happens once it gets going. Just got the swing gate sent to me and it looks really well made. Check that link for some pictures. Gonna aim for about 11psi as my base boost and just leave it at that until other stuff gets sorted before worrying about a boost controller and trying to push it much. I'm slightly injector limited right now anyway.

The restoration program dimensions in this PDF might be helpful, but I'm not sure anyone has a CAD file of the whole thing ready to go. 240ZRestorationprogram (1).pdf

Currently in Utah, but opted to not drive the Datsun and take a break for a while. Lots of changes recently. -Switched to a Mishimoto radiator after my radiator developed a leak and I didn't feel like just patching mine up. -Installed the Turbo block and got the base timing set and a couple short test drives to tweak the VE map with my old NA parts -Bolted the AC condenser. Top of it bolts straight to the radiator core support at two points, and bottom used a single bent bracket I made that bolts to the center then to original front valence brace. -Installed a proper Aeromotive FPR and ran a proper return since my base fuel pressure was much higher than ideal. Used the blockoff for the in-tank regulator I was using before. -Committed to the internally regulated turbo I got with the block (Fairly certain it's a T3/T04e .63ar 57 trim) -After chatting with Godzilla Raceworks about my goals, I decided to stay internally gated and bought a 5 bolt "ultimate internal wastegate valve" from ATP that should flow much better than a stock internal wastegate and transitions into a 3in v-band. That, a new actuator, and bracket for the larger compressor housing cost me less than just a new internal wastegate, never mind the cost of the external wastegate mods. Hoping it's a good compromise of performance/cost/packaging for my use. Unfortunately something about changing the block and the new mounts changed my driveshaft angle enough to get some serious vibrations. Thought the clutch wasn't centered at first, but the noise is only under load and not really noticeable vibrations when free revving to the same rpm. Also need to roll the rear driver arch slightly more. Rubbing a lot while driving right now, or it's some kind of CV noise when the load is that direction. Another thing to inspect. Burned out slightly after all that and not really in the mood to work on it in all this heat, so I'll be back at it sometime in August, hopefully finishing turbo stuff, AC lines, electric fans, and maybe even an upgraded transmission.

I was alright getting the compressor and bracket (didn't get the hoses), but honestly for cost saving if you're trying to save every penny it'd be cheaper to get the same compressor elsewhere. Unless you're sticking with a stock system, there's no point to using their hoses

OHHHHHH.... My mistake, it was Nostalgic Air, I don't know why I wrote Vintage Air. Edited the other post for clarity.

... I thought you knew, you were the one who directed me to them haha. They're the only ones that make a bolt in, and for the L24 guys it has provisions for the smog pump and bracket. Unfortunately that means the included belts are too short and the other is too long. Yeah, I'm kinda pinned between putting the fresh block in and dealing with sluggishness while turbo stuff gets done, or just dealing with like half a quart of oil every few hundred miles and running my engine for the rest of the summer. Both aren't fun despite being completely usable as a cruiser.