rayaapp2

The R33 RB25 is L-jetro. Below is a bunch of information about boost controller kit for the Power FC. I do not know if the GReddy MAP or Valve will work. I purchased a used APEXi AVC-R controller and a new APEXi boost controller kit harness and installed it as the boost controller add on kit for my Power FC. This is the closest you will be able to get to the D-jetro MAP sensor system as you can get without going full stand alone like AEM or whatever have you. I also highly recommend purchasing a FC datalogit box so that you can connect a laptop up and get full program ability out of the Power FC unit. The FC Datalogit box is far superior to the FC Commander(hand controller). APEXi 415-A001 Boost Controller Kit: For those of us with the APEXi Power FC the 415-A001 kit is the add on kit we can get to control our boost level. " POWER FC - FAQ by Paulr33 @ SAU I was searching for the APEXi part numbers when I ran across this FAQ on Google. Map Sensor: 499-X001 Valve: 499-X003 Harness: 49C-A002 Exerpts from Paulr33's website The optional boost controller kit for the Power FC consists of the pressor sensor, pressure sensor harness and solenoid. The solenoid should be plumbed between your manifold and the wastegate actuator (internal wastegate setup). For external wastegate setup it should be plumbed between the manifold and your external wastegate pressure line. The pressure sensor should be plumbed in parrallel with the factory MAP sensor which is used by your standar boost guage. The solenoid has two labels on it, you should match them accordingly COM line should goto wastegate actuator NO line should goto intercooler piping It can be T'eed into the plumbing with its included T piece fitting. Boost Controller Kit Type #1 3 wire plug, Solenoid runs to stock boost control loom on stock ECU wiring loom. 3 wires in Apexi loom are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power Boost Controller Kit Type #2 5 wire plug, Solenoid runs to map sensor harness which runs to Boost Controller port on PowerFC 3 wires are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power. 2 Wires are for Solenoid Power and Ground Skyline RB25DET PowerFC and GTR RB26 Uses Type #1 The pressure sensor has the main wiring harness directly attached to itself, one end plugs into the 5 pin port on the PowerFC. The solenoid piggybacks off the Pressure Sensor wiring harness which leads to the PowerFC connector port. The wiring is shown below. MAP Sensor Red = Positive Black = Negative (earth) Green = Signal Solenoid Pink = Positive Black = Negative When the solenoid wiring meets with the Map Sensor harness the colours for the Soneoid change as follows; Pink = Red Black = Brown Boost Control Kit - Parts Inventory Boost Control Kit - Complete Kit Boost Control Kit - MAP Sensor Boost Control Kit - Solenoid Apexi PowerFC - Plug Layout "Boost display without the Boost Control Kit? By default as the PowerFC will not show boost pressure as it has no method of reading it in via the stock ECU loom. If you purchase a suitable map sensor and connect it to the PowerFC boost control kit port then the hand controller will display boost pressure. The boost control kit uses a Denso map sensor which is part #DPS 310 2000a - Denso 949940 6270 5V and the wiring loom cable/plug can be brought from Apexi which is around $40 AU. The cable is listed as the 3pin boost control harness. Nengun has this listed under Electronics -> Apexi -> D Jetro Option Parts Alternatively below is the pin out diagram for the Boost Control Kit port. This is for the 3 pin version only. I am unsure of the pinouts for the 5 pin version. 1 = Voltage+ 2 = Signal 3 = Ground " I have done this on my car and it works correctly. I used the boost control kit harness ($30 new) and the Boost Control kit Map sensor and stepper motor. I connected them up using the supplied plugs & loom and plug it into the PowerFC Boost Control kit port. I purchased the Wire harness 3 pin for ~$25 dropped shipped from APEX integration. The plug on the valve will not just plug into the R33 S2 plug on my car for the stock solenoid. You will have to cut your AVC type R controller harness and solder the APEXi valve plug to your engine harness so it will work. I have supplied the wire colors needed to do this and a multimeter will quickly tell you which wire is the + wire for the stock valve and the ECU controls ground. I also rerouted the valve vent which you will be instructed to vent to atmosphere to vent into the BOV return tube as Nissan had done from the factory. As far as the timing advance goes I have not touched the stock ignition or fuel maps in the PFC. I can get it to knock at high rpms(5K+) under full throttle under heavy load. I would venture to say if your fuel system is setup correctly that light driving under stock conditions would be okay. I have noticed that the stock map settings are on the rich side of things, probably as a safety precaution. I've seen it go to low 11AFRs under heavy foot operation with both my wide and narrow band. Hopefully this will help you.

If you are using a GReddy intake you can have it modified as described OR you can run the large VH45 throttle body with a 45* 3.5" - 3" silicone coupler reducer and it should clear after removing the carbon canister mount from the rights side of the inner fender well. Personally I ran a 3.5" - 3.5" 45* coupler and worked the inner fender well to sufficiently clear the pipe. But I was going for volume in front of the TB.

Wow this Thread needs cleaned up! My website is down for now and so are the links that I posted. I hope to have it up and running soon and the diagrams will again be available. Im still working on a S2 schematic. Its been on the back burner for sometime. I have one sketched out on paper in pencil that covers both RB25det S1 and S2 R33 harness. Something else that has been bothering me is the power distribution. I keep having electrical loads mess with my fuel pump, injectors, etc. Im not sure if it would help, but Im going to try isolating the power distribution through a power bus bar in the engine bay routed to a blade style fuse block. Im sure there are two things going on here that are compounding the problem. One is that I do not have the fuel pump modulator that should compensate for such loads, and Two is that the cars harness is 36 years old and has a few issues of its own. So at least I can eliminate problem 2 by isolating the power distribution. My aftermarket ECU has a voltage compensator that is adjustable via programing so personally I can eliminate number 1 as well. Others will have to figure out how to deal with that in their own way. The most important reason to isolate the power from the car harness though is that the cars circuits were not designed to handle the power(amps) that the ECU and other related devices draws esp with an older wire harness that may have small amounts of corrosion in places. The Main Power feeds for: the Fuel Pump Relay, ECCS Relay, Keep Alive PROM, and Ignition Coil Relay are the main ones I can think of right off hand that can be isolated. The stock fuse block for my 260Z keeps blowing fuses. The circuits simply were not designed to have an extra 10-20amps drawn through them. I suspect the 240Z and 280Z suffer the same exact problems. The fuse size for these circuits is based on wire size, length, and load. The fuse size is rounded down from the maximum amp draw of the circuit. I believe a little logical thought process will lead you in the right direction from here. I also HIGHLY recommend that the wire used for the fuel pump relay low voltage side be beefed up a bit(larger gauge) and think about building some circuit protection. I had some problems with that circuit called "fly-back voltage". It was caused by the relay turning off. It cost me $100 to have the ECU repaired after burning out the fuel pump driver. I have not been able to determine a fix, but Im sure some kind of "Zener Diode" would do the trick. I just do not have enough knowledge to build this circuit correctly. I am not an electrical engineer by any stretch of the imagination. I have some intermediate electrical diagnostic skills that have proved to get me into trouble in the past. So take this with a grain of salt; at least until someone with an extensive background in electrical engineering can respond to this.

So my AB valve isnt working. It does not open when vacuum is applied. So I need a new one as I am running the air injection setup still and all the other "smog dog" stuff. Im curious if a good one stays open at idle leaning the mixture out? I know it is suppose to open under decel conditions but what about strong idle vacuum?

Unfortunately, OR FORTUNATELY for California depending on how you look at it, my equipment does not sample max power pulls. So I cannot see what is going on beyond half throttle. It could richen up, but its pretty much a linear pull as far as my butt tells me after 4500 rpm that starts to drop off around 6500 rpm. Im running a pretty much original 1/71 L24 E31 combo with the exception of a "C" cam and an old Spin Tech 6-2-1 super long secondary header(by super long I mean the secondaries combine into the pre-muffler towards the end of the transmission and Im sure someones is longer so Im going to stop you there). The SUs are original. I have checked them for shaft leaks and found nothing. I went through the carbs and cleaned out all the typical deposits. I thought about modifying the bridge while I was in there, but decided I wanted to get a base line before I started compounding problems. I have smoothed that bridge out before on other SU's for engines in the past with good results. When it comes to needles I have NOT done my homework and Im afraid I do not know the difference in needle designations or how to compare them. I have seen different needles and played with them a bit and that is the extent of my knowledge. I will have to sit down and figure that out soon I suppose.

really? I would be pushing for close to stoic verging ever closer to 13:1 at WOT(at least that is my theory) On the 260Z with fuel injection I dyno tuned the car up to 11.5ish:1 at WOT pulls. I would think carbs would be at least 13:1 for max power in a track car? Id be curious about further details. Damper Oil only affects incoming acceleration of air not how far the slide will open or static flow rates... The spring tension on the top of the slider may affect a steady amount of air, but Im unsure as to what extent. Definitely not oil. I did have to change the oil from ATF to 20 weight to get the richer mixture on acceleration I wanted. I have almost always LOVED the flat tops... I use to have a large collection of them at one point in time... Ive never tried to smog them though. I kick myself cause I let go of my last set 6 months ago for recycling while cleaning out. I now vaguely remember(in part to the reference of separate idle circuit) a mod for SU carbs that leans out only idle... Some kind of Toyota vacuum switch hooked up to open a special metered leak only at idle... hmmm sounds like something I may have to try. Thanks Tony! Hopefully that means you received my phone call? I tried to call you after the final smog I ran.

So Ive been running the car on the smog machine all day... 5 times 3 asm and 2 tsi test and used the gas analyzer multiple times. I started out with pretty stioc numbers at idle 14.6:1 or so and ran my first ASM test to find that 15/50 test shows 16.98:1 and the 25/25 17.97:1 using Lambda calculations. I started playing with the jet adjustment and was able to get the ASM test to 15/50 @ 15.43:1 and 25/25 16.07:1 Then I ran the TSI test and found that idle was now at 11.08:1 and unloaded 2500 rpm at 17.1(for what ever unloaded is worth to anyone). So i reset the adjustments back and was able to get my idle to 14.28:1. All I can think is that my needles are wrong or the spring over the slide is wrong. Am I way off? I could just keep going with the jet until I get to a good AFR, but I have noticed the higher the RPMs the leaner it gets under all the ASM loaded tests. ASM is the loaded test 50% load at 15 mph and 25% load at 25 mgh for those of you who dont know. TSI is the two speed idle test. Idle and 2500 rpm in Neutral or Park. All my AFR's were calculated using 5 and 4 gas readings and a Lambda Calculator Smogsite Lambda calc My head hurts so I may have missed an obvious answer. Thanks Guys for any direction you can point me in.

I believe you've killed this one Tony. lol Its funny I remember you making an extremely similar statement about the Suburban/Gm trucks years ago on Zcar.com. I wish I could find that thread, but it was back in like 2003-2004.

could be at 22... I dropped the car off at our new house last weekend so I cant really go out and check it(200 miles away). Going off memory and mine isnt always that great. I have seen it at 22 inches before... I have seen it at 15 inches before as well, just kinda fuzzy as I was only really paying attention to max boost as that was my concern.

My RPMs dont change when I turn on the turn signals, but I have noticed the fuel pump changes pitch with the lights and other accessories. When I re-wire this thing again I think I will try your solution. Ill relay all the ECU power sources and run them through a seperate fuse block that is tied to the battery. Thanks for the input!

I dont remember a thick white wire. I have a series 2 setup so there isnt an extra relay for the ignition and its all low voltage out to the coils with an amplifier built into each coil. The Series 1 setups have a thick white wire like you are describing. All my power is coming through the Z harness currently. But after recent events I may be rewiring the whole setup for a third time. I have spoken with APEXi and Adrenaline Motorsports Inc about what happened to my Power FC. Adrenaline Motorsports does these types of swaps and they are very familiar with the Power FC (Their Tech department came recommended by APEXi's tech department for whatever that is worth). Adrenaline Motorsports was saying something to the effect of wires that were too small for both fuel pump and the power supplies and when they swap these in other vehicles that they go up in wire size. Im not an electrical expert so I cannot argue the point one way or another.

NGK Copper Core .030" gap plugs with aftermarket Super Spark Performance RB Coil Packs from Raw Brokerage. Im running 2 steps colder than stock. I tried to cover my bases, but its possible. If I had setup the data logging I might have been able to figure it out.

If this is totally side tracking the conversation I apologize and any further replies will be done via PM or email. Tony, You have mentioned this turbo setup to me before. Im curious because you go onto mention where you think full boost will be available to you with this setup on an LD. Is it because you have a good idea based on other engines youve seen and you generally have a good idea how certain sized turbos work with engines in general or is it much more in depth? I ask because I know how to figure out VE(volumetric Efficiency) for a gas motor, but its been a total guessing game to try and figure out the LD... Any ideas where I might find VE for the LD? Thanks

Almost Unanimous! APEXi. I assume you all are talking about this one? It appears to be similarly priced to other high quality filters out there. ~$50-$60 for the filter Would you guys be willing to post a part number or link to where you bought yours? Then there is the matter of install. Those of you that installed this filter did so in the engine bay and attached it to the MAF. I would want to put the air filter up front where the current one is. I think I will have to remove the torsion bar hood spring and install the filter so that it points nose cone down.

I really doubt that its the same valve as the DSM cars. The DSM cars ran more boost in stock form that the RB25 does. I would think the springs inside would be different to be application specific. I know the things are engineered to be open at idle. At idle Im making about 15 inches of vacuum and the BOV is cracked open. I actually had a Type S Greddy. I ended up selling it. I could not make it fit my needs. I figured there would be a better one available out there with all these new valves available. The stock valve works for me. Ive been running ~10 psi(.70 BAR setting) with no obvious issues. I put it up to 1 BAR and started to see issues so I backed it down to be safe until I can determine if it was timing or boost bleed off(or both).

For some reason the rest of the world doesnt like the stock RB25det ecu. I think it has something to do with the variable intake cam. Anyway the stock ecu has no IO other than the Nissan 2 data connector. The other Nissan ecu boards have sockets built in or spots to install daughter-boards that can be interfaced. The RB25DET ecu does not have any provision... I have the Blazt Nissan Data Scan Software that utilizes the on-board Consult data. The software can temporarily manipulate certain criteria, monitor a bunch of other outputs, read/erase stored codes, and put the ECU into base mode so you can set things like timing or idle. Data Scan is really just a way to set the base mode settings and a cool diagnosis utility though. It connects through the OBD I Nissan 2 connector. The thing I wish they made for the RB25DET is NIStune! NIStune offers Z32 TT ecus to be swapped into the RB25det, however it requires some slight repining of the ECU connector. I am unsure what other differences there are for that ecu swap. Id rather opt for something specific though that just bolts in. I have grown accustom to the APEXi interface through the FC Datalogit program. Its very simple to program. The instructions are straight forward. I have no clue as to what the NIStune interface is like. Since the RB25det board is one of the harder ECU boards to interface with a daughterboard, Im sure if there ever is a NIStune solution that it would be comparable in price to a good used APEXi Power FC. However the FC Datalogit and built in boost controller with MAP reference just blow the competition out of the water... or at least for the price I picked it all up for; lets see: APEXi Power FC used: $500, FC Datalogit (datalogger/programer/input.output daisy chainer):$200,APEXi add on boost controller: ~$204 (I bought the Power FC and Datalogit as a package) On another note I sent my Power FC off. The Power FC runs about 700-900 used and the most APEXi is going to charge to fix mine is $350, so that probably worth the wait. We are in the middle of moving so its not like Ill be enjoying long drives in the Z anytime soon. Ive been watching my other post about the air filters too and tossing the APEXi air filter idea around. I have to figure out how to make it fit.

Just another thought on the eccentric throttle cam: The Infiniti Q45 90mm throttle body has a similar setup. The cam is not eccentric, but the cam does not directly drive the throttle shaft. It is connected to a a linkage with a roller that rides in a curved groove. The curved grove gives the eccentric motion. Its been a month or so sine I looked at one, but it may be fitted to other nissan throttle bodies.

I will have to re-plumb the wastegate. The boost controller is run through the APEXi ecu and reroutes the wastegate lines through the boost valve rather than just controlling a bleed like the stock unit. Im not convinced the stock ECU has a good fuel or ignition map for the way the engine is setup. The first time I dyno'd it I had the AFR go lean. The engine should still run with the stock ECU, but I dont know how safe it would be to use. I have other cars though.

LD28 rods = Forged same as other L series.... For anyone saying they cant find L20A E etc... 6 cylinder L series 2L, I cant seam to sell my bottom end for $150, but if it is so rare and hard to find maybe I should be charging more... I have seen several of them in the greater Sacramento Ca area in the past 2 years on CL. LD28 block and crank combo make a good gas stroker combo together with large bore... Its just not any easier to build than a regular F54 casting... when you compare the cost vs strength game. So its whatever floats your boat. DAW contact 1fastz for his sonic testing info... TonyD If you go with the 5spd I could use the 4spd auto... My Datsun Maxima is a 3psd Auto. It would be nice to have the spare anyway.

APEXi-USA says they can repair the unit for me. They offer repair services starting at a minimum $50 fee and up to a $350 repair fee for a complete replacement. I spoke with their techs on Friday and on Monday and requested a RMA # to send it off. It sounds like they send it out of the US to get repaired. The turn around is about 1-2 months.

Exactly as quoted above... I have an early 260Z with an RB25det and the SS differential. You should have a good look over the PDF provided by Modern Motorsports. I used the non-billet adpaters after much dialog with Ross via email. I noted that even after reversing the outer CV joints that there was not much travel left in the CV for suspension movement. My 260Z sits ~1.5" lower than my 240Z with Tokico 1" lowering kit. I have not had any problems with it binding up around hard corners or anything. As a side note:` The characteristics of the car totally changed with the LSD. The car is much more "wild" than with an "open" differential. It tends to shoot sidewayz rather than a straight line... I changed where the variable cam timing came on to 3.5K rpm and can get that rear end to light the tires right in the middle of third... Time for wider tires I think.

Found the culprit. The fuse that supplied power to the ECCS relay had an intermittent problem. That particular fuse was a 12V source at all times. The little glass fuse was apparently defective and every time I tested it it was good. YES I ohm'd out my fuses and voltage drop tested them... So with a clear head I went out to the car this morning and noted that the relays and apexi boost valve were rapidly clicking again like power was not being applied through the main voltage circuit. I went to pop the fuse out and suddenly everything came on... I also noted that the fuse gets warm after long periods of driving. Its not hot, but maybe the heat aided the defect. My guess is the heat, bumpy roads, and defect in the fuse caused the power failure that induced the voltage flyback that took out the fuel pump ECU ground. The place in Australia no longer services any ECU. Found this place and sent an email... still open to suggestions. Im going to duplicated this thread on SAU and cross my fingers. http://www.risingsunperformance.co.uk/shop/index.php

So yesterday I went out to start the car in the morning and the car would not start. The Ignition Fuse had blown. I found it and replaced it. Then I noticed the fuel pump was not priming. So after a bit of testing the circuits for the pump I decided to try the stock ECU. The stock ECU works with no problems. So its gotta be the ground switch inside the Power FC. I opened up the cover on the FC and did not see any heat scoring or obviously burned up components. So the next step is to contact a reputable shop for repair. Im open to suggestions. The ONLY one I can find is in the land down under. Can someone please post a anti-flyback circuit as well so I can permanently resolve this issue. As many RB25DET ecus I have seen with this circuit burned out on the boards this fix should be public knowledge. I KNOW jeffp has the circuit! if he does not post I will have to give him a phone call and then post the solution up here... I vaguely remember him warning me about this.

My last one collapsed on itself, but I also dont want to run an oiled filter... Any over oilage at all and you risk damaging the MAF sensor with the oil. Oil isnt metered when applied so its a guessing game at best depending on your experience. Its just not worth the hassle for me. Ray