rayaapp2

I purchased a set of "used" coils from Raw Brokerage and replaced the arching coils on my car. The car runs great now. Ive been driving it for the past 2 weeks with no problems... well at least no drive train problems. My Rainex windshield wipers are not clipping on correctly and its raining a lot around here. Im pushing to get my car on the dyno. Im told that Friday the 6th should be a good day. We will see. The SAFC is in place and I wish to tune the car on the dyno. The next subject I have become interested in is RB26 cams. I understand the RB26 has solid adjustable lifters where my 25 head has hydraulic lifters. The RB25 also has VVT and the 26 doesn't. I am very curious what the specs are for the 25 and 26 cams. The 26 makes a gob more HP than the 25 did off the showroom floor. There are some major differences in the 2 engines, but none that add up to "gobs" in my opinion. The cams must be the difference. Im unsure of the exact HP difference between the two engines but low est are 250hp for the 25 and 280 for the 26. Are the cams interchangable? Anyone have the specs for the cams? Is there any basis for my speculations? Thanks guys

I just installed my SAFC II into my car and Im setting it up so I can install the knock signal wire. So anyone that has done this setup knows that in order to hook up the little purple wire(knock signal) you need the RPM signal to work as well. I cant get a signal. Im pulling the signal from Pin 7 and Im routing it to the green wire on the SAFC. The SAFC is at 0 RPM. I checked I have .2 ohms from the ECU at pin 7 to the SAFC at the internal connector. Temporarily I have connected the the green wire to pin number 1 and set the SAFC Cylinder count to 1. Whats the deal?

Let me start by saying I dont know what Im talking about. That way no one gets confused by erroneous information. So I was just being nosy today and I stopped by Venus Auto to check out there stock and return a faulty ignition coil. While I waited I looked at the other RB engines on the shelves. I saw a RB20DET on a top shelf with what I thought was the "GT-R" AWD oil pan. Then I looked below it and there was a RB25DET AWD engine. Neither engines had transmissions, BUT both engines are stamped with their engine code but the block casting is obviously for the AWD setup. It has the wider block skirt and extra large bolts. So I dont live in a place with lots of skylines around to examine so I dont know what's going on. The "internet" says AWD = GT-R. I guess not? Im just not into the RB26DETT. Its cool factor is way up and other than the ITB setup Id rather just have the RB25DET for the price. BUT that is just personal preference so it doesn't matter I guess. Not that this is super valuable information to everyone, but it could be for someone looking and I just wanted to satisfy my curiosity. Anyone know what these monstrosities would have spawned from? Ray

Just because you have a good pump or new pump doesnt mean there isnt a problem. Old cars with small or clogged return lines will spike pressure. If you dead head the return line the pressure will spike up past 110psi easily. A pressure gauge will make sure you are within spec. My guess was that you were running rich. If all checks out start looking for vacuum leaks.

You dont need O2 sensors to run right. The car will run "okay" without them. They are for fine tuning the fuel mixture and swinging the fuel mixture for a cat. If you dont have them the ecu will just not go into closed loop. It wont run great but you may not be able to even tell the difference in most cases. Usually the first sign is poor gas mileage followed by the MIL. Its very hard to diagnose what is going on in the videos there. Can you report back with what it smells like? take a look at your exhaust and see if it is black or tan or smells funny. Maybe it burns your eyes when you look under there? You need some diagnosis tools. fuel pressure guage for one. A can of brake cleaner as well to check for vacuum leaks. You should also double check your wiring. If the O2 sensors harness was cut, what else was disrupted? There are numerous things that could cause your engine to act up. The ECU on these engines is smart enough to "mask" other problems and make it a total pain to diagnose the real issue.

Im helping another Hybridz member out with his ride. We have 2 problems to overcome still though. Im hoping to get some advice. The first problem, the ECU won't put out enough amperage to kick over the Fuel Pump relay. I see 4.5v at the signal wire from the ecu with no relay. If you add the relay then I see .5V before the relay when I should still be seeing the full 4.5V. So I think the ECU Fuel Pump driver is bad. I tried to replace the relay. I made sure the other side of the relay coil had a good ground. It was still dead. So I bypassed it and hooked it to ignition on for now. Second problemo, He is running the greddy style intake with the Q45 TB and a Greddy BOV. I chased vacuum around using my car as the template as it is stock. So now that everything is hooked up correctly and he is still having drivability issues. Once he hits boost the car stumbles. The variable in the system is the BOV. Its an adjustable type that discharges to atmosphere. I know its not correctly adjusted and I know that venting to atmosphere under boost will mess the A:F up. Recommendations? I suggested to find a stock BOV and install it as I dont have the tools or experience to setup the Greddy one. There is a Boost guage and a Stoic guage on the car so we can watch what it does. The A:F is all over the place when it stumbles and the boost is low. These were taken before a few of the miss routed lines and the boost solenoid were hooked up. But it gives you an idea of what we are dealing with. and just for referance since I couldnt have said it better myself in reference to replacing the OE BOV with an aftermarket one. Anyone want to pile on some advice or confirmations? Questions? I know I leave info out sometimes that is crucial. Thanks Guys!

PART NUMBER: So I had a chat with Napa and had them call the manufacturer of the coils. They can get them, but they have to be ordered from the manufacturer. Part Number for the MCP-1330 through Napa is IC383

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(eqegtgaktvuw0zyldutc433z))/Detail.aspx?R=ECHIC323_0215172211#

Since Ive been busy making other posts here they are to just add to the completeness of my build thread Spark Plug Thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142787 COP (coil over plug) Replacement / Missfire / arching issues http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/393935-s2-rb25det-cop-replacement

This might help someone: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/393935-s2-rb25det-cop-replacement

They are generic and Nissan colored coded their relays for us as well. There are 2 style connectors though you have to watch out for. You will have the most luck pulling the exact relay from an Infiniti Q45 as they had a ton of them on board, but just about any newer Nissans will have them from the 1990's to Current. They used these style relays in places that were unsecured. So like under the dash vs being in the fuse block. So these type are usually connected to a little metal bracket that hangs them to a mounting surface. Best place to find them is near the ECU behind the kick panels just hanging out. You will find that 99% of the time the relays are in very good shape even if the car is completely trashed. The relays were rated for much more than Nissan ever used them for in most applications. Look for the ones that have a opaque connector rather than the completely blue one. Those are the ones you need. Generic Bosch style ones work just fine to, but its more cutting and soldering that you already have to do in this swap.

Sorry I have to pick on you a bit cause I anal, though Im not trying to offend you. You have to at least spell check you questions on these boards. Its probably why your not getting many responses as you would like. Secondly there is a bit of info on this exact subject on this forum and Nicoclub.com under the RB section. I just went through the timing issue on my thread as well. Im sure you looked a little or asked someone as you have the lucky number 15 though if you had searched you would have found a post called "Timing RB25DET S2" which I made within the last week. Its here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142094 scroll down and you will see it. Again Im not trying to offend you just trying to guide you a bit so you can be more fruitful in the future with getting your questions answered on these particular forums.

Im not sure who you would take it to right off hand to be honest. There are several shops that deal with Z's and several shops that deal with the RB in the greater Sac area. The only shop I would take it to is these people: http://www.zcargarage.com/ The are in San Jose. Its a bit of a drive(or tow), and he's not the cheapest. He is one of the best shops to take your Z to in all of Northern Cali that I know of. At least when it comes to RB's and Zs in the same sentence. I would at least give Rob a call and give him your situation. He might be able to give you some advice.

I just changed my plugs out and found corrosion around the old plugs. I cleaned the head surface and the isolator boot on the coil packs off pretty good. I noticed that after the car came up to temp that the engine still has a miss. So I stuck my head down by the valve covers and I could hear noise around the rear cylinder COP's. I thought it was coming from either cylinder #4 or #5 so I took it back apart and cleaned the area up as best I could. This time I washed the areas with warm soapy water and a paper towel. I warmed it back up and the miss was still there. So I waited until tonight. With the lack of light I popped the hood and looked at the coils for bleed off and there it was. # 1 and #6 both have bleed off. The car stopped missing as bad, but I can still see the spark bleeding off. Its on the driver side of the coils(exhaust side) and it looks to be bleeding to the COP rails. Both are doing the same thing. These COP's are the S2 ones so they have built in Ignitors. Im hoping the COP case is just dirty still and the case isnt actually damaged and seeping the spark out to ground. Does this sound like a typical COP failure or is it likely dirty? If they have failed how hard is it to get the S2 COPs? thanks for any help

There is a very good chance I will be seeing over 60K miles in the next 2 years. I plan on driving the car daily. The car isnt a track car, its my DD. The RB being the reliable power plant that it is in stock form and being the logical step up from the L was why I chose it to put in my car. That way I could get the reliable, but also could get the fun factor in there. After messing around with the L28et and trying to get it to survive the boost to get what I wanted out of it the car turned into a project so the RB was the chance to make it a driver again. So I guess what Im trying to walk away from this with is a little more knowledge to try and make a good choice for my stock RB. If both plugs last about 60K miles and the Iridium will out perform the platinum that sounds like the way to go. I shouldnt have to worry about fouling out as the ECU default is lean except after a hard run when they try and burn the fuel in the cat. ********************************************************************** So I went ahead and ordered the Platinum PFR6G-11 plugs for the car just because they are what the engine is designed to use. I couldnt come up with a good enough reason to use the Iridium plugs in my stock application. On a side note I was warned that there is a chance with either plug but it is even more so with the Iridium that the tip will melt off the electrode and fall into the combustion chamber. The Iridium can do major damage to everything from pistons to valves as it is very hard and gets very hot. This info was directed towards a much higher performance engine other than my stock RB. I guess the Iridium gets so hot it dis-lodges itself from its seat and falls into the combustion chamber. But if you were running a race motor or high performance motor I would think as it was stated earlier in this thread you would be taring the engine down long before such a failure occurred. Second hand info though so take it with a grain of salt and find out for yourself.

See and this is were I get lost. I refuse to skimp on spark plugs. Everyone so far says Iridium is a step up and stands up as a more robust performance plug than the double platinum. Then there is the fact that the listed Iridium plugs are half the price of the double platinum plugs. Why would you run the double platinum plugs if you could get a superior plug for half the price? Im just having a hard time convincing myself to buy the Iridiums over the double platinums. I cannot confirm it but I suspect that the Iridium plug has Iridium on the center electrode but not the ground side like the double platinum. That may be why they are less expensive. If that is the case then the Iridium is pointless as the ground side will wear faster than the platinum tip version.

Maybe a few posts I was looking at were getting the "G" and the "B" mixed up. I didnt find an actual listing for the "B" plugs either. Were did you get that info? I was looking on the NGK website and all I could find was the info on the left side of the page and it was incomplete. It looks like this: Extra Long Life Double Platinum Plug, 14mm Thread, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Extended Metal Shell, Solid Terminal, Extended Projected Tip, Fine Point Platinum Center Electrode and Platinum Tip Laser Welded on Ground Electrode, .044" (1.1mm) Gap I guess it doesnt matter that much. I just went onto NGK's website again... R33 lists "5" http://www.ngk.com/results_appNonUS.asp?internationalMotiveID=3553 R34 lists "6" http://www.ngk.com/results_appNonUS.asp?internationalMotiveID=3557 No listings for the R32 in Turbo trim though. Anyone have any comments to compare the platinum VS the iridium

So I needed to check my timing today. I have a miss when at load that I could not account for. I wanted to put the car up on the power dyno to get a base line to work up from in the future, but because of the miss I passed on it today. Instead I tricked the Snap On Ethos into thinking I had a 94 300ZX TT so I could check for codes and do a general diagnosis. The car came up clean, but the base timing was at 10* BTC. So I disconnected the TPS and moved the CAS until I could read 15* BTC. The miss that before was at top end only, became apparent at off idle low load. At this point we had access to a smog dyno. So we put the car up on the smog dyno and ended up doing a 5 gas analysis. O2 was up a bit, but everything looked normal. So, we backed off the timing to 5* BTC for the time being to try and compensate and prevent any possible damage. Just trying to play it safe. My final determination: 85K miles aka 120K Km equals spark plug replacement time for RB. I pulled all the plugs and the platinum tips on the electrodes were all wore off. So I need to stop by and pick some new ones up at the parts store. Ive got a post about that already though. I was setting my timing and thats what this post is about. I dont understand this completely so this is my best guess as to what I was seeing. Moving the CAS with the engine off will do nothing at all... Moving the CAS with the engine running will not set timing. Moving the CAS with the engine running and the TPS unplugged will adjust timing. So if the timing is far off and your CAS is clocked one way or the other you can plug the TPS back in and turn off the car so you can reposition the CAS to the Center. The Center should be 15*. Still looking for an answer to the clutch situation 30100-21U01 looks to be the part number Im after and Nissan of Elk Grove is looking it up for me, but they are lagging. Ive been trying to find a replacement stateside. Ive seen some reference to 300zx clutches. Id really rather not pull my trans back out just to measure the clutch. Im betting someone has done the research and has the answer somewhere. Im pretty set on finding a Nissan OE part rather than deal with an aftermarket clutch and all the problems that everyone keeps reporting back with on the net.

NGK lists two plugs for my RB25. I went on their website and typed up 94 skyline RB25DET and they came up with 2 stock replacements. I know there are alot of threads about which plug to run, but I cant find a direct answer about what to run. Most of the threads are about hot or cold plugs. PFR6G-11 is what is in my engine currently and appears to be original PFR6B-11B is recommended by a lot of posts for stock replacement PFR5B-11 is also recommended by a lot of posts for more Boost "colder plug" PFR5G-11 is NGK's website's listing for OE replacement BKR5EIX-11 is also NGK's Website's listing for OE replacement "IRIDIUM" All I want is a stock replacement to be honest. I was going to just get the PFR6G-11 as that is what is in there, but who is to say that is correct. So I checked the NGK website and saw the 2 listings. Now that I have far to many choices than there should ever be. I dont need colder plugs as I am running the RB stock. So can someone convince me why I need to run a particular plug? Then there is the question of Lazer Platinum VS Iridium. here is one of the more interesting threads I ran across about the subject but unfortunately its is for the VG30DETT not RB! http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/3/1170880

Well put. This is very true. I was following this thread and knew of the cars in the wrecking yard. It was cheap enough that it would not be a waste of money if I bought it and it wasnt going to work. It has sufficient cooling in good shape. Most likely you will find this radiator in a beat up car and in the same shape as the quote above. It would not be worth the time. To get this radiator in reconditioned shape is about 200USD so not worth it. So anyone looking at this thread should be well aware of the situation. I have plans to change the radiator later as I have stated before to something better when the time comes.

So far with me doing most of(pretty much ALL) the work I am sitting just over 3300USD. I expect to spend 3500USD before Im ready to call it a daily driver. This is all in parts alone and doesnt even take into account the wearables such as cutting discs, welding wire, solder, a brand new soldering iron cause I lost mine, shrink tube, electrical tape, and all the random parts I had laying around to build the harness. I spent alot less than most ppl on this swap so far cause I know people and I searched out my connections for the best prices. In the end I would expect someone else doing this swap to spend around 4500USD+ and not be complete. This response is to all the posts on this forum that I ran across stating what they thought this swap would cost on average. So here is another post confirming that. Here is a quick breakdown on my expenditures so far... and its not even complete. if it says 0 that means I already had it or it cost me nothing. If it is blank I need to find a receipt. Jhot --------------------------------1632.00 + S329---$1961 RB series Rear Sump Oil Pan ---------------------------$295 RB Series oil pickup -----------------------------------$0 Intercooler--------------------------------------------$0 Intercooler piping--------------------------------------$0 throttle cable -----------------------------------------$50.69 RB 25 Timing Belt--------------------------------------$34 RB 25 Timing Belt Tensioner and spring------------------$36 Oil 5W30 Royal Purple XPR------------------------------$51 Oil fitler-----------------------------------------------$0 gear oil------------------------------------------------$20.97 Nissan Rad Fluid for aluminum engines-------------------$0 Radiator hosespar-------------------------------------$30.83 fuel pump----------------------------------------------$0 Fuel filter----------------------------------------------$11.06 Fuel line 8mm------------------------------------------$18.87 tubo timer---------------------------------------------$on hold mounts------------------------------------------------$268 rick wong Gell Cell Batt-------------------------------------------$139.69 Batt cables--------------------------------------------$0 clutch Friction Disc-------------------------------------$0 Cable Drive--------------------------------------------$46.44 Driveline-----------------------------------------------$225.00 Rubber isolator mounts---------------------------------$10 Radiator 200sx 82 pnp----------------------------------$71.32 Radiator Cap-------------------------------------------$8 MAF filter adpater--------------------------------------$14 Air Filter-----------------------------------------------$0 Temp gauge sending unit-------------------------------$36.06 -----------------------------------------------------$3328.68 Also NOTE: 25080-89903 Temperature Sending Unit is confirmed to work with the S30 Gauge. I

My TACH works. Stock tach! The HEI works. Sorry going to redirect you to my thread rather than repost it here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=968979#post968979 I have a huge rats nest under the passenger dash from tracing wires and Im going to have a fun time putting it all back together.

MY TACH WORKS!!!! HEI ignition unit works and the tach reads correctly!!! I extrapolated from a MSNS diagram I should make them for like 30USD and sell them for 50USD and make a killing since MSD sells them for like 120USD. OR I could just tell you how to make your own. I seriously built this thing from random parts laying around. Mike Rowe's post about a tach adapter on Chris R.'s wiring thread helped me finish it. I dont have a bunch of technical details like I said it was thrown together using random parts in my garage. A light bulb from the glove box of a 95 Q45, a 1985 Chevy HEI unit, and a random 4 pin Nissan Relay from a 95 Q45.

Coolant Temperature Sender unit. Ive been on a man hunt for a while on this subject. OE replacement for the RB sender is Wells TU84 OE replacement for the L series sender is Wells TU62 Im interested in the TU104, but I have no leads to believe it the one I need other than a picture that looks similar and the listing says Nissan/Datsun 1983-199X. TS198 is special order and hard to get for me, but Im going to order it and hope it works. OR I could have read this more carefully, Will try to find that sensor thanks Mike! TS25541 ? Niehoff That's it, my local Nissan dealer has 2 in stock for like 30USD, Im done fooling around. lol Autozone lists TU84 wells for a replacement for the 91 240sx. The specs on the TU84 are no go for the z gauge.

I looked up the Nissan Hardbody and Pathfinder have a single pass aluminum that is about the same size, but it comes with a trans cooler internal. Some of the listings say that the late 720 pickups came with this same radiator. I believe the 720 pickups with the NAPZ or other motors would work as per the listings I have seen so far. BUT you might dig in a wrecking yard first to find a m/t truck cause they can only be ordered with the cooling as far as I have found. Sorry I spent like 2 hours digging through radiator replacement books trying to find a 100USD+/- 40USD replacement radiator for my stock 260z radiator. On a side note I pressure tested my system and it works great. I still have to replace the CT sending unit so my guage will work. I need to post that in Chris Rummels thread though.