rayaapp2

The first air filter I ran on my RB was a K&N 3" cone filter. With only a few hundred miles the filter collapsed. I was forced to walk into the closest auto store(think it was Kragen) and buy a "Spectre" universal cone filter. The filter was suppose to be temporary. Well it has been a year. Ive cleaned it several times and it has turned out to be not so bad. Its time to grow up though. Im seriously considering installing a typical square filter in a custom box up front like a stock Nissan filter for a newer car. Id go for a stock 280Z air box if the intercooler wasn't in the way. Ive thought of all sorts of air filters. The HKS style or whatever brand floats your boat mushroom foam filter are not really suitable for daily road conditions though they flow really well. I am unsure one of those mushroom filters would even fit. Im over the cheap filters and the K&N filters. They have been a constant headache and worry. The deal is that I would like it to fit in front of the intercooler somewhere. Im worried about blocking airflow to the intercooler and radiator. The current cone filter hits and rubs the hood when the hood is closed. Im not fawn of it moving and rubbing the intercooler either. Its not a good situation. I regularly see bugs stuck in the cone as well... I wonder is sand could blast its way through. There isnt much room on either side of the intercooler for a filter or box. So here is where I am open to suggestions opinions. What ever I use must be able to stand up to the suction and be able to filter while still flow well. Im sure there is a way to determine what filter by air flow, filter size, and filter mess flow, but Im lost there. I can get measurements for anyone willing to get involved in detail. Thanks guys

Nothing? Really? I received one answer via PM. The user is using a stock valve crushed down "for now". Anyone want to stick their neck out with what they are using? PS MODERATORS, I really hate this deal with the EDIT function being disabled after a few days... I could go in and edit this thread/title and add a question about my air filter situation instead of adding it to the bottom of this post with out advertising it or making a new thread about it.

Apparently I broke the sender unit for the temp gauge while installing it into the new intake manifold. BUT, IT LIVES AGAIN Videos and pictures are not far off in the future.

Intake and Radiator installed I picked up a large roll of aluminum that Im planing on turning into a fan shroud and belly pan next.

Its definitely slow here. I cannot account for it either. Everyone must be to busy to log into hybridz and answer questions. If they really were stuck inside somewhere the boards would be lite up here I would think.

I was under the assumption that the NEO 2.5L fuel rail was a direct fit to the S2 2.5L with a Greddy type intake. The GReddy intake should accept both the top feed and the side feed injector rails. The knock offs should also in theory. The wire harness plugs right into the S2 wire harness as well, but ea injector plug is the same as the side feed type. Youve got your own injectors so you'll have to figure that out. The only thing I foresee is the 10.5mm and 11mm sizes. I think the stock rails are 10.5mm. Correct me if Im wrong. Ebay Item # 180419429704 has a picture of the NEO fuel rail w/ injectors and sub harness. Also you could use a stock RB26 fuel rail as well. I have bolted one of those on a friends S1 2.5L with a Freddy intake manifold. I think these rails were also 10.5mm also. The Real Greddy fuel rail is a good unit. I have not toyed with the knock offs.

-The Topic is the stock blow off valve for an RB25det. -The questions: What is the stock blow off valve set to? Is the stock BOV good for anything more than stock boost? If it can handle more boost, how much? At what point does the general consensus say replace it? What is a legitimate replacement for the stock valve? (no bling bling logic please)

Just for fun: Its not everyday you see this... My 82 Datsun Diesel Maxima haulin the 71 521 trailer with a 71 521 pickup cab sitting on top of it...

Getting there. The old '82 200sx Radiator removed. PRC 24" X 19" Double Pass 3 core should arrive 5/17/10. In all those silicone couplers I ordered one wrong, and the replacement will be here on Monday as well. APEXi Power FC, Boost controller add on, and Innovate LC-1 wideband O2 have all been completely wired up. As soon as I get the coupler and radiator in Ill be able to start some basic tuning. And perhaps I have missed something else here: The BOV is still stock. What is that thing set for? Think it will take a bit more boost? How much?

Boost Control Valve So I got my AVC-R in. Perhaps there was some truth to what APEXi USA was saying. The plug on the valve will not just plug into the R33 S2 plug on my car for the stock solenoid. I still feel like they were giving me the run around though. Im not entirely convinced that this system was well designed. The boost valve vents to atmosphere. The instructions also say vent to atmosphere. The system is still MAF even if there is now a MAP sensor involved. All the information I have read leads me to believe the MAP sensor is not being used for A/F in a way that replaces the MAF. So Venting the valve to atmosphere seams like an A/F as well as emissions problem. As I understand it Japans emissions standards are more stringent that most of the US including good ol' Ca. Its a minor vacuum/boost leak, but it still plays a part on A/F calculation that the MAF cannot account for. The APEXi Power FC is like many systems here in Ca that are Off Highway Use Only so emissions were most likely not an issue to be addressed. Still the A/F calculation thing bothers me a little. I wish I could find some info about this system that actually states for a fact that it cross references the MAP for A/F calculation. Hopefully Ill find out when I plug it into my lap top and start going over all the perimeters and figuring out how to set it up.

Just bought all my intercooler piping from 034motorsports Will install tomorrow. Im officially $10K deep for all costs of this car... only took me 8 years to spend it. I also wanted to note that APEXi USA tried to give me the run around on buying the 415-A001 Kit components separately. They tried to say that there was more in the kit than what was there and that they wouldnt sell it in peices, then when I provided the part numbers they said they were available at an inflated price (more than the kit total). I purchased the Wire harness 3 pin for ~$25 dropped shipped from APEX integration and bought a ~$180 AVC-r shipped off of ebay instead. Total was ~$200. Ray

POWER FC - FAQ by Paulr33 @ SAU I found this yesterday and I found it HIGHLY helpful. I was searching for the APEXi part numbers when I ran across this FAQ on Google. Map Sensor: 499-X001 Valve: 499-X003 Harness: 49C-A002 Exerpts from Paulr33's website The optional boost controller kit for the Power FC consists of the pressor sensor, pressure sensor harness and solenoid. The solenoid should be plumbed between your manifold and the wastegate actuator (internal wastegate setup). For external wastegate setup it should be plumbed between the manifold and your external wastegate pressure line. The pressure sensor should be plumbed in parrallel with the factory MAP sensor which is used by your standar boost guage. The solenoid has two labels on it, you should match them accordingly COM line should goto wastegate actuator NO line should goto intercooler piping It can be T'eed into the plumbing with its included T piece fitting. Boost Controller Kit Type #1 3 wire plug, Solenoid runs to stock boost control loom on stock ECU wiring loom. 3 wires in Apexi loom are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power Boost Controller Kit Type #2 5 wire plug, Solenoid runs to map sensor harness which runs to Boost Controller port on PowerFC 3 wires are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power. 2 Wires are for Solenoid Power and Ground Skyline RB25DET PowerFC and GTR RB26 Uses Type #1 The pressure sensor has the main wiring harness directly attached to itself, one end plugs into the 5 pin port on the PowerFC. The solenoid piggybacks off the Pressure Sensor wiring harness which leads to the PowerFC connector port. The wiring is shown below. MAP Sensor Red = Positive Black = Negative (earth) Green = Signal Solenoid Pink = Positive Black = Negative When the solenoid wiring meets with the Map Sensor harness the colours for the Soneoid change as follows; Pink = Red Black = Brown Boost Control Kit - Parts Inventory Boost Control Kit - Complete Kit Boost Control Kit - MAP Sensor Boost Control Kit - Solenoid Apexi PowerFC - Plug Layout Boost display without the Boost Control Kit? By default as the PowerFC will not show boost pressure as it has no method of reading it in via the stock ECU loom. If you purchase a suitable map sensor and connect it to the PowerFC boost control kit port then the hand controller will display boost pressure. The boost control kit uses a Denso map sensor which is part #DPS 310 2000a - Denso 949940 6270 5V and the wiring loom cable/plug can be brought from Apexi which is around $40 AU. The cable is listed as the 3pin boost control harness. Nengun has this listed under Electronics -> Apexi -> D Jetro Option Parts Alternatively below is the pin out diagram for the Boost Control Kit port. This is for the 3 pin version only. I am unsure of the pinouts for the 5 pin version. 1 = Voltage+ 2 = Signal 3 = Ground I have done this on my car and it works correclty. I used the boost control kit harness ($30 new) and the Boost Control kit Map sensor. Connect them up using the supplied plugs & loom and plug it into the PowerFC Boost Control kit port. You don't need to enable the Boost Control Kit (under ETC, FUNCTION SELECT) for it to display boost and for BOST to work in ETC, SENSOR SW/CHECK *********************************************************************************** Perhaps someone could tell me what the check valve on the boost valve line is for. Maybe its a filter not a check valve? On another note: I bought the wiring harness for $25 USD shipped. I bought a used AVC-R for $170. So Im still under $200 and I ended with the head unit and wiring harness for the AVC-R.

I have the final Answer for S2 RB25DET owners and Q45 throttle body installs. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Q45-Throttle-Body-Install-t308397.html&pid=5089668&mode=threaded&start=20#entry5089668 The 96 Infiniti Q45 Throttle body has the corresponding S2 TPS. On another note: APEXi 415-A001 Boost Controller Kit: For those of us with the APEXi Power FC the 415-A001 kit is the add on kit we can get to control our boost level. Whats in this kit? hmm... Well I see a wire harness, a Denso 3.5 BAR MAP sensor, a stepper motor, and some bits and pieces. Isnt that the very same Denso MAP sensor and stepper motor(aka boost valve) that is used in the APEXi AVC-R stand alone boost controller??? Why yes I believe it is! Im pretty sure the AVC-R is readily available used and new here in the US. I have found the replacement boost valve and sensor online for just over $100 for both. So then why is the kit 415-A001 listed for no less than $300 new anywhere? Im not really sure... In fact I find it rather sad that used kits are listed for $300-$600 depending where in the world they are. At least you can find the old AVC-R kit in good condition for under $200. Im seriously considering buying the sensor and valve or the AVC-R and searching out the connectors needed to make my own harness. It really can be any worse than wiring the RB into a 260Z.

Unless I am totally missing something in this thread somewhere I see that no-one has addressed the hose issue. Im ordering up my PRC 2111100 today direct from PRC. They really do have the best price on their own product. They list the chevy double pass with a 1-1/2" upper and a 1-3/4" lower. Most of the posts in this thread cover RB26dett installs, but there are RB25det and RB20det owners here as well. Maybe a few of you guys with success in this install could list the hoses that you found work. RB26dett Upper- Lower- RB25det -Greddy/knockoff intake Upper- Lower- -OE intake Upper- Lower- RB20det Upper- Lower- Brief description of how to install hoses: I.E. had to cut 2" off upper manifold side. Another note should be on how well it fit the location when it was completed. Was it taught, kinda kinked, or Perfect!? This could save multiple trips to the auto parts stores to match up hoses. Im half temped to hook up the tow bar and drag the car down the street to a couple of auto parts stores, but I know my success will probably still be limited. Thanks Guys.

Greddy Intake manifold install: Why is this stupid manifold so tricky to install? It seams so straight forward. And yet I have hit several stumbling blocks. I managed to re-route all the coolant and idle air control hoses. I re-routed the wire harness under the manifold with the throttle cable and a few of the vacuum/pcv hoses. It took some Finagling to route it under the manifold cleanly and so that it didnt snag on the oil cooler or other lines down there. I can still change the oil filter and I think that is what counts. Anyway the biggest snag I hit was the TPS sensor. If you have read through this entire thread then you know I have an Series 2 engine setup. My TPS is the newer style. I happen to have an S1 style TPS around, an extra S2 TPS, and the TPS for a 89 KA24e. I have the FSM for my a 94 ECR33 which is the exact year my engine is from. I have no idea what you guys are doing with your TPS installs. Both my S2 sensors check out according to the FSM with FLYING COLORS. They are to the specs accurate. According to the FSM they are to be back probed with ignition on engine off and they have voltage readings to be measured. Here is where it gets tricky. I have as most other assumed that the difference between the S1 and S2 setups was the ignition and maybe some slight mapping in the programming. Well the 1 S1 TPS I have doesnt correlate well with the S2. Remember that the S2 only uses the TPS on the sensor. The S1 uses both the sensor and the switch. Well I busted out my meter and took some measurements. I drew up some pictures of the connectors which I will not share here, but I was able to reference the 2 styles of connectors that way. For comparison I bench tested the 4 tps sensors using my meter. For your purposes I will compare them with a 1 , 2 , and 3 for each respective pin. S2 1-2 idle 5.25kΩ 1-2 wot 136.3Ω 2-3 idle 257Ω 2-3 wot 532kΩ 1-3 total 5.28kΩ S2 1-2 idle 5.02kΩ 1-2 wot 70Ω 2-3 idle 290Ω 2-3 wot 5.16kΩ 1-3 total 5.09kΩ S1 1-2 idle 290Ω 1-2 wot 9.55kΩ 2-3 idle 9.54Ω 2-3 wot 290Ω 1-3 total 9.44kΩ KA24e 1-2 idle 8.83kΩ 1-2 wot 124Ω 2-3 idle 324.4Ω 2-3 wot 8.90kΩ 1-3 total 8.76kΩ Just in case you havent realized yet what the problem is: The S1 and S2 style TPS will not swap back in forth on their respective throttle body mounts. So if your planning on putting a Greddy intake onto your S2 setup and you want to install the 90mm Nissan throttle body from the famed Infiniti Q45 your going to either A. swap on the Infiniti or other random early style Nissan TPS and call it good or B do what Im doing ??? I have seen the 96 Q45 non TCS TB and I guess its a direct replacement for the S2 throttle body. So Im going to now be searching for one of those. The other TPS sensors will not that I can see make suitable replacements.

Almost completely mocked up. There is some incompletness going on at the Turbo Housing intake up to the MAF and all the related recirc stuff.

Thats the kit. At that same price they threw in the air horns in my original pictures. The kit is supplied with SAE bolts. Replace those bolts with metric and fab the linkage up. Take a close look at the linkage and linkage mounts that my friend fabed up. The mounts are aluminum with brass bushings on nickle plated rods all connected together with heim joints. If I didnt already have a good set of SU's on my car I'd be all over these. Take that price though and go look up single MCHH 45 carbs. You can buy 1 carb for $200. That kit sells both carbs, 2 K&N air cleaners, the air horns, the adpater plates, choke cable, bolts, and the TR linkages for $100 more.

I have serious doubts you could fit 6 of these in that space. You would spend less on a used triple setup than 6 45 side drafts anyway. It was less than $600 for this setup and that beats out sending off his old SU carbs and waiting to have them rebuilt for over $600. Its a nice alternative to have. And they provide instant drivability with little to no maintenance. They seem to run a bit rich at/off idle out of the box. He needs to pop them open and install smaller jets. Top end feels great.

after seeing the 1971 in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/75973-my-71-240z-w-rb25det-almost-ready/ I set out to copy the throttle body install. Hiding the throttle cable underneath just seems like a brilliant idea. The only thing down there is the lower radiator hose and the thermostat housing. here is my mock up. I routed the throttle cable under the intake next to the block and out just above the thermostate housing. Im going to make a cable mount that attaches to the stud under the upper radiator hose on the head that mounts the intake.

Dyno is probably not going to happen. Not for this car. Anyway. The carbs are a bolt on. That is if you buy the kit. The kit is designed for a TR6 otherwise known as the TR 250 Triumph. The kit comes with SU adapter plates that work on the 240Z or 2000 roadster. Some of the linkage works, but most of it is custom and so are the mounts for the linkage. The kit includes ram horns and a set of K&N air cleaners for options. The L28 loves the larger carbs. The owner of the car works in a machine shop and is considering producing the linkage/carb kits as a package with a competitive price. Im not sure how that would pan out, but its cool to see another option. Ray

SU replacement 45mm side draft Webers. MCHH 45 Car runs great, significant improvement over down draft webers, and the jets are obviously to big for the L28 currently. Just slapped them on as they were out of the box as far as the carbs are concerned. Custom linkages and all that. BTW Less was spent on purchasing these and making custom parts than we would have spent @ ZTherapy. Not knocking his products just referencing price ranges. PS Camera Phone pictures are not the best. I will update these later. CHEERS

-GReddy intake manifold NEW $530 shipped!!! got a deal!!! -APEXi Power FC & Datalogit $700 shipped -Cobalt boost guage $67 shipped -wideband LC-1 Innovate $200 shipped I will have other misc parts for the intake swap and such shortly. Ray

4/29/10 UPDATE Stepping it up I had some Rain Water issues. The wind shield gasket started to leak and let water drain onto my harness on the passenger side. I had the window wipers go cookoo and then something strange happened and the harness fried out. One of the power wires down on the fuse box gave up the smoke inside. I spent a few months rebuilding the whole engine bay and dash harness. I took the time to go through and make my harness look like a factory Nissan harness. That is all finished in time for me to do some more electrical work now. Im finally installing the GReddy intake manifold. I purchased the APEXi Power FC, FC Datalogit, and an Innovate Motor Sports LC-1 wideband O2 as well. Im busy paying other bills right now and forced to thin out my extra parts(even the ones I want to keep) so my funds are ~zilch. When things level out I still want to install the APEXi PFC boost controller(~$300) and something else very important. Take a look at my progress. See if you can spot the thing that is still in the pictures that needs to be upgraded... HINT: Its not any of the missing parts. Spot it? It has been a good part until now. For running around this past year and a half it has got the job done even in really bad heat. If your stock I still stand by this debated part. Im stepping it up and this will be the next replaced part. Still havent figured it out? how about another hint: Im going with a Champion unit. I see more dyno runs in my future.

I have one left in very good shape. The right is missing the pig tail and the lens is broken such that it is missing the lower corner. make offer PM or Email if your interested Sacramento Ca

I have a small bucket full of door trim stuff. I have a bunch of other items Im trying to clear out as well. I have a hatch, and a 240Z hood. Friend has a good 280z hood down the road. let me know I can go pick it up and have it if this is planned out. Its green and I think the vents are still intact. Im in Sacto near Bradshaw & US50 831-402-5387