rayaapp2

I moved to a location that does not allow me to setup a home server. Eventually I will get ot uploading stuff like that to photobucket. MY pictures were taken from a phone so they were a bit fuzzy. Ya'll must be talking about Phill's 240Z: "Emerald". Those carbs seem to work well with his setup. I dont remember what Phill said he had into them, but he was working at a machine shop so the parts were cheap.

They have been discussed before as Tony stated, but last mention of them that I personally can remember was several years ago(without searching for it myself). I think there was a post back in '04 or '03 about gasket type comparisons. Your best bet is to simply use google or the search feature here on hybridz. Generally copper gaskets are used for specific applications. There are very few OE applications for them(old 2 stroke engines being one of them). They have their purpose, but 99% of us here on the forums would never actually have use for them in my opinion.

Wow, unfortunately I have lost contact with the guy that had it. He had a bunch of other junk he was trying to pedal off and that was the only thing that was worth looking into. Stuff like a BAR84 machine that was in pieces. The guy moved from down the street from my in-laws in Sacramento Ca to somewhere up in Oregon. Ill give him a call and see if I can reach him after the holidays if you want, but no promises he has it still or I can even reach him.

a cookie... this cookie... Sorry your response was lengthy and and filed with big hard to understand words and well I got hungry... As you can tell there might be more where this one came from... But youll have to play again... I think there is another chance to play by CLICKING HERE!

If I am experiencing something weird that isnt obvious the first thing I check is carbs for some reason(SU carbs). So while Im already there its easy to pin point a cylinder out without doing much dis-assembly. If it ends up being something stupid like a bad plug wire or whatever you be able to focus on that cylinder without wasting time pulling all the plugs, the whole valve cover off and all that crud first... The road might lead to pulling that stuff off, but it makes an easy first check point for me. My diagnosis is based on SU's though so that may change as I adjust to a different style carb. With an external balance tube I suppose it wouldnt matter anyway about the brake booster signal and it could be left in its current position. But yeah I can see the error in my previous thought process there. This is where I pulled the idea from. Un-needed for now, but its laying plans for more expensive upgrades later... Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting And for the Cookie casting numbers were "1001" casting located on the bottom left of the structural bar in this picture

I like to check all six to verify other engine conditions as well... why pull a plug or valve cover when you can simply plug in a vacuum line and confirm a flow issue with a particular cylinder then diag from there. Also if you have all six available installing an external balance tube to reconnect the brake booster to to get a better signal out to that... hot cam and one runner just sounds like a bad idea to me in theory. I was shortly tempted to just have a buddy tig weld in a square tube between runners 1 & 2 as well as 5 & 6 then drill straight through into the that existing bar and out the other side to make an internal balance tube. Its easier just to buy the correct part though and use an external balance tube that can be isolated and will retain unbiased sync and future diagnosis ports for me. as for the knock off, probably... after doing the RB intake manifold I can see that happening easily. Hopefully the knock offs weren't cheap Chinese replicas like some of the GReddy knockoffs. I didnt even like the ISIS knock off. I ended up with the genuine article for my RB25. I have had several knock off RB's in my hands and nothing compared to the real thing though. Quality Casting being the point. Who hogs out the short radius/bottom of either I or E runner? That sounds completely counter intuitive to everything Ive learned(Not an expert here, but Ive been doing my research). I thought focus was on the sides and long radius/roof of the runners anyway? (sorry just stumped as to why you said that) Or are you referring to "high porting" or relocating the port itself? example original Electromotive cylinder heads with 60* ports rather than the 90* or close to 90* stock ports. Will get back to you guys about the casting numbers on the bottom for a VR internet cookie...lol

His Catalog is viewable online, I did have a look. I havent had a chance to make any phone calls yet today. Its hard to make phone calls when you dont have a land line and you sharing a cell phone with your wife cause you broke yours last night... ISKY GRIND L490 ADVERTISED DURATION 290° .050 DURATION 242° LIFT .490" Valve Lash .010/.012 INTAKE 36-74 EXHAUST 74-36 Isky calls this a stage III cam... I dont know anyone that can describe this cam to me. Your obviously running a Turbo grind so it would be different lobe separation and such. The ramp angle on that thing looks insane! There is something odd about the the last set of numbers which I take to be opening and closing events. I would be surprised if either the L480 or the L490 were refined to max potential... They look like they were plotted on paper to look pretty on a cam card. But I must again say I really dont know much of anything about cam design. 36 BTDC IO 74 ABDC IC 74 BBDC EO 36 ATDC EC leaving you with an amazing 72 degrees of overlap on the L490 and 62 degrees on the L480. That doesnt add up correctly. There are 38 degrees of overlap on a "C" cam and 30 degrees on an "A" cam. Most of the aftermarket stuff has less overlap and the more cam you get the more overlap they seem to cut out. Im really liking the tight clearance valve lash though. Im willing to bet that the Robello cam has interesting valve spring specs... like single valve springs and less spring seat pressure and still be able to function at high rpms... So far all I can elaborate is less wear on everything but the lash pads and cam surface. This would be an ideal setup with rollor rocker arms... (yes roller rockers are most definitely out of my price range)

Yeah I couldnt find anything on my manifold either, but I already have it in my hands so I didnt ask about it again. I was mainly looking to see what else would pop up that might be available. I tried searching several different ways using google. I promise Im not totally stupid. The picture I posted was the only thing I could find. The CZcar stuff didnt pop up in my google searches. Thanks for the information and your patience!

I dont have any way to do the math(as in this may be a fanciful, un-realistic, un-acheivable grind), but I think what Im looking for will be something like: .480"-.490" lift 265ish degrees duration @.006" and something like 245ish @ .050" hopefully a usable ramp angle here for L series rockers. Lobe Seperation of 110 A fellow HybridZ'r sent me some info about Rebello and this is a paraphase of that quote. Rebello regrinds .485" lift grind that behaves a lot like the .525†lift over the counter grinds in the upper rpms yet still produces great low end midrange grunt for pulling out of the corners pull. He went on to say that it is one of the close lash grinds. So Im going to speak with Dave about cams. I wasnt aware he didnt outsource his grindings. Im almost afraid to ask price when it comes to Dave Robello's parts or work. This isnt a track car and Id like to create a reasonable budget. I was also going to speak with Dave about his crank trigger dampeners. I have already had a conversation about JE pistons with him. I have a feeling I will be dropping $1600+ with him alone just for a few parts. I am also awaiting quotes for cylinder head work. Im still up in the air about changing the rotating assembly out to an L28 or keeping it as a L24 assembly. More stroke = more torque which is my focus. I was half tempted to use the LD crank, but I dont have any more of them and they are expensive to source these days. There is also the fact that they are not a simple drop in, in a P30 Block. I checked my HKS gasket and its a 2mm X 90mm bore... It was okay for my F54 87mm flat top P90 turbo setup, but not for a 85 or 86mm bore L24 that Im trying to get 9.5:1 compression out of. I put an add up to see if I get any bites on trading it for a more reasonable MLS gasket.

FET would have been a NICE manifold... I can find nothing on "KYOKU TO" manifolds

sorry, we were posting at the same time apparently. Besides who can hear anything on this website? Poor eyesite is a different problem though.

Unless you guys can prove him wrong I believe he beat you all to the punch as I predicted... Whats funny is Tony is more likely to answer a post on these forums than an email... ahem.. cough.. cough, pardon me. lol Alright open to conjecture... So whats the deal with "something different" Personally I like the Mikuni for TB replacements and injector positioning for future upgrading. For now however I like the mikunis manifold because it has individual manifold vacuum ports and its still long enough(even though it apears short) to aid in torque production(or so is my belief no facts to back this). My only concern is all the bends the flow takes with the mikuni... no straight shots... 45* - 45* then through the head at almost 90*... It does appear that Mikuni took correctional steps at the bends on the inside though for the first 45... wide and high outer radius. I need to take a closer look to see whats going on there. I really need to invest in a set of these... to get what I want out of either manifold... oh and a couple flavors of carbide grinding tips...

I checked and there is NO internal passage(balance port/tube) inside that "vacuum log" All the ports that are available are visable in the pictures. The one hole in the center facing where the head would be located is not a port! Its just a bolt hole for ? Other than that I thought it was very odd that the manifold would have manifold vacuum ports on all but 2... maybe three if you exclude the brake booster. For tuning purposes I would want manifold vacuum ports on each individual runner to run a flow synch on them from like say a motorcycle. Then when they were not in use for synch I would have them connected to a balance tube that had PCV on one end and brake booster on the other. I have no idea why these would only exist on some of the runners... unless someone added them in for their purposes. EDIT: WHATs the deal with this? There are 4 numbers on the "vacuum log" webing underneath. Ill have to go out and look at them and get back with you guys about them.

Okay so I picked these up today. They are Solex 40mm carbs. Their story is un-important as I cannot verify anything. They are covered in old gas... and they smell pretty bad. So I purchased them as cores and planning on rebuilding them and adding a good aluminum heat shield. The Air filters and Air horns are not compatible with each other so its one or the other. I will most likely build a box for these that resembles the S20 air box. Anyway back to the issue at hand. I have no plans to use the manifold that came with these. It could be modified to what I want out of it, but Im already setup with a Mikuni short/medium length manifold. So Id like to at least figure out what I can about this manifold before I cross it off the list completely. Its actually longer than the Mikuni manifold that I have, which I understand from most to be better for torque. So without getting to caught up in side conversation about which is better or whatever can you guys identify this manifold? Once we can do that conjecture all you want. I love to hear opinions. Here is the Mikuni Manifold that Im planning on using... carbs were not included(thats how it was stored) BTW: Dont let TonyD beat you to the punch! You know he will! :DROFL Thanks Guys,

I have spoken to Dave Robello about some JE pistons for what Im planning on the bottom end. JE directed me directly to him rather than speaking with their own techs... hahaha So I believe I have that worked out. Lets talk about Cams as well, First off Im going to restate that I do not have a broad knowledge base from which to make any decision here that would be anything more than a random guess as far as camshaft selection goes. That being said I have contacted 2 cam companies about my build. Delta and Webcams. Delta has offered up their 272-2 Specs are as quoted "225 duration int 230 exh .464 lift 110 lobe seperation" Which I must say is lacking in description, but their response in that regard was: "those specs are what they will need to set spring pressures, and flow info. The opening and closing events are not supplied due to too many variables. lash, follower geometry, milled head, surfaced block, all of which will move those events" So I guess its a secret... I have no idea if those specs for duration is at .006" or .050". I cant determine very much at all about this cam except for lift and it seems a bit small for my taste(again guessing here). Next we have Web Cams 115 regrind I_________E .007"_____.011" Valve lash .488"_____.488" Valve Lift 12.4mm____12.4mm Valve Lift 252°______252° Advertised Duration 230°______230° Duration @ .050" 108°______108° Lobe center 109.5 Separation IO 11°BTDC IC 50°ABDC EO 47°BBDC EC 8° ATDC 91 regrind I_________E .007"_____.011" Valve lash .450"_____.45011" Valve Lift 11.43mm____11.43mm Valve Lift 260°______260° Advertised Duration 238°______238° Duration @ .050" 108°______111° Lobe center 109.5 Separation IO 11°BTDC IC 47°ABDC EO 50°BBDC EC 8° ATDC I think Im still looking at cams here that dont suite what Im looking for though. Ive been comparing these specs with the stock A and C cams specs which is what I have now. I have yet to contact Schneider about a re-grind. Im not sure who else other than Schneider that I could contact to see whats available. Id like to set the redline at 7500rpms and start making good power at 3000rpms as long as there is something down below that to get moving from a stop sign without riding the clutch. The car isnt a daily driver, but does drive on the street. I have been reading through this CLICKY Add this Sticky to the list as well... Very good stuff in this STICKY CLICKY "NA 3.1L=>head & camshaft questions. No shortcuts, max" I have read the Racer Brown writeup several times over. Its very basic information in there, but it seams to help give a little insight into old cam designers heads.RACER BROWN I believe Racer Brown would classify my build as "weekend warrior". For anyone still wondering what Im looking to build. "It was stated earlier that small displacement engines need all the torque they can get, particularly at lower engine speeds, and if this is a factor, long duration, very high lift camshafts are O-U-T. They're great for strictly race engines. But for a street-driven vehicle they'd need a road map to fall out of a tree…and probably a push to get them started."... "In the area of camshafts for such applications, effective duration should be in the low-to-mid-260 degree range with 44 degree - 48-degree overlap. A camshaft assembly must include special valve springs, spring retainers and lash pads of the correct thickness. Usually, this type of speed of around 7,500 RPM; but it may require notching the pistons for the required piston-to-valve clearance" Datsun camshafts & valve timing by Racer Brown I havent contacted Isky, or Schneider yet about their regrind specs or prices. I am also planning on speaking with Dave Robello about cam choices and see what he recommends, but I dont feel qualified to make a choice even if I talk with anyone about what they recommend. Id love to be able to just hand these guys my specs and not rely on them to interpret my needs since they all seem to have a habit of under recommending (and with good reason as I understand it).

Ive had problems with the 81 style CAS... The engine would get to operating temp and the timing would go bazerk. I didnt realize what had happened until I blew cylinder #6's piston. The car was running 18lbs of boost at the time so timing was critical and it really didnt take much to pop #6. Come to find out many others have experienced heat soak issues with the early style CAS in the 81's. I have seen/used the optical setup in the 82-83 and its different than the 81's, but I do not see why it couldnt suffer similar issues from heat soak. You should be able to toss an advancing timing light(so you can do a full rpm sweep and watch the advance) on that engine setup while its running and verify your timing up until your problem presents itself again. I had to verify timing once on COPs without the funny inductive pickup for them... Use a good short peice of regular spark plug wire to gap the COP away from the plug and use the conventional inductive pickup to clamp over it like normal old school cars. That way you can verify your output without relying on the computer calculated output... This way you can verify that yeah your timing is dead nuts and it eliminates CAS, and other ignition components as the culprits and move back on to the other option, fuel. Just make sure you monitor the timing up until the point of failure to be sure that it isnt the cause of the problem. You have yourself an intermittent problem so your going to have to get it to "act up" again while probing around. Hopefully Murphy wont step in and make it run perfect for the next 30 days. I too believe it would be helpful if you could clarify "turn over" Is the starter not working in some way like not even attempting to click over, engage the engine, do anything, or is the engine just not firing off?

Food for thought, I have been looking into changing my cam for a L24, as Paul knows. I have discovered that sending off your old stock cam(if its still a usable core) to get it reground is uber cheap. In my ignorance I just assumed it was a really expensive thing to have done. Its about half the cost of a new cam depending on cam company. What are you willing to pay for an "A" cam? $100 plus shipping? Delta Cams just quoted me $95 plus shipping. They also offered to do my rocker wipe pads for $3.50 ea. as well. Its been a while since I last bought a good "A" cam though so unless you already have one laying around to play with, you might try calling one of the cam companies for a custom grind quote and see what they offer.

Most COP systems and some waste spark systems need to be grounded during any hot tests. KTM most likely knows this. The coils in the COP's have a much thinner/longer winding in them and are susceptible to high current when you simply unplug them and do not give them a special path to ground. Essentially you produce an over current situation when they actually do fire and the chances of you burning up or damage the coil windings is highly probable and it can leave you with a bad coil. This is why I put these instructions in bold in my first response. FYI for anyone thinking about attempting this.

Your going to have to bust out a multimeter or an O-scope. Check the obvious. Fuel pump power and ground and watch for any interruptions that would lead you to further diagnose. IF its not there when the fault occurs move on to ignition. Verify you have basics here. Pull a COP off and load it with a spark plug. Ground the spark plug! OR you will be sorry. Run the engine in L5 mode. Get it to die while watching the spark plug fire. IF the ignition has quite and is causing the shut down you know where to start your real diagnosis. IF neither of these is the culprit, your going to have to start looking at whatever other fuel system components like injector power sources and such...

I meant "Use the factory hole already cut into the cowl". As opposed to laying the exhaust under the cowl completely and having an empty hole where the exhaust should have been which is what it looks like how it was intended to be installed.

Ill get something posted for sound soon. Most likely on Monday when I get back into town. As for the valance, no I did not have to modify the car to fit the exhaust. I modified the exhaust to fit the car. The valance is intact! I see where you got that from... I just mis-wrote it. If you look at the pictures you can tell the cowl isnt cut. BTW love this sticky : Exhaust Sizing I know you know about it Leon, but its nice to have it available in this post too.

Wish someone would buy my set of pans for $275... list for $250 paid $320 for them to my door. They are superb parts! Its a darn shame I dont need them anymore. I used the bad dog full length rails... They are also superb parts! Worth every penny!

Well dang, thought it was on my end, but uh... I should have known better Its double posted me with one click a few times in the past few days. Thanks for cleaning up my mess though! Good luck with the fix!

dont know why it keeps double posting. I only click once... grr So Pistons: What do you guys choose to run on your builds. Im pretty set on some flat top JE pistons with the thermo sealed crowns and tuff skirt coatings(no breakin stuff on them). I would be open(and would prefer) a set of hypereutectic pistons vs forged, but no one makes them for an L that I have ever found. What you guys think...

Alright Tony, You got me here. Its in my best interest to go distributorless. Why dial in a cam with precision if you dont follow up with precise ignition timing to take advantage of said dialed in cam... Then my only weak link is timing chain tensioners... which Im not going to spend $800 or whatever dollars on the Kameari tension... so ? What are some options out there for stand alone ignition? I know about the EDIS system, I have heard of the Electromotive ignition stuff(I really want to know more here, but their website SUCKS!), and that is about it. Im open to crank fire ignitions through the stock cap and rotor... setup not unlike the 81 turbo cars. It retains a stock look that I like.