rayaapp2

I have only speculation, but I would say those parts should interchange. The RHD and LHD columns have some differences, but from what Ive seen (and I have had a few RHD setups) the top stuff is all the same. The bulkhead side is very similar in the 2, but have some slight alterations to conform to the bulkhead shape(and Throttle assembly). Other than that the internal stuff all appears to be the same.

My family and I moved into a new house back in July 2010. Its now 6 months later and we've discovered the crawlspace entrance while cleaning the yard up. The house is built on a hillside so its like 2 feet on one side and 9 feet on the other. When we moved in I had noted that there was a tire and some lawn chairs down there and closed it all up. I popped it open and behold! its a 240Z rims and tire. I grab the flash light and take a better look inside there. I find 3 hub caps stored a little further down the way. I found a second rim and tire. After a little bit more searching I found the fourth hub cap. No curb rash on any of it. One rim looks like its a spare with no rust. Both tires are original 1973 240Z Toyo's(maybe 260Z but most of those have the Bridgestones from my observations) The 1 of the hub caps is immaculate. the other 3 have slight flaws and a little bit of surface rust. There isnt any curb rash on any of it. Neighbors say they've been here since the early 80's and no-one has owned a Datsun that has lived at this house. They have always been a tight bunch of car folk too so its likely that this stuff has been under the house since the 70's. People often tell stories of how they found something neat in a Datsun, well Id thought would share that I found some neat Datsun stuff in a house! OH, Yeah and a pile of the rustiest Datsun lug nuts I have seen in a long time.

Everything in the picture I posted above costs $250 plus shipping... If you happened to already have a set laying around for some some reason that would be even better. I dont think your going to be able to buy even one of those aftermarket throttle bodies(maybe not even used for that price). I mean not unless you happen to have 3 of those bad boys already laying around instead. What do those aftermarket TB's go for? $400-$800 ea? X3 = $1200 for TBs. Then there are these and they are similar in price and bolt on. Take that same amount and pay $275 for the 26 TBs and spend the rest retro-fitting them to the DCOE manifold and velocity stacks that accept injectors. kiwi303, did you not read the link I posted in its entirety? This idea presents the opportunity to try something high performance. This could easily become a superior setup to the bolt on DCOE direct replacements in regards to performance. Have a look see.

Yeah, I edited the post after thinking about it for a moment. My theory still stands though with the TBI setup from GM. At idle they are dumping fuel right on top of the throttle valve. I dont recall if the valve is cracked or not on the GM setup. "Think of the Ford or GM TBI setups and tell me how they differ from the F1 setup...other than the horsepower. How does that setup get air to run the engine? There is an IAC on there, but it's admitting air nowhere near where it will allow fuel to mix into it's bypass of the throttle plate... Even using a stock SU body and closing the throttle and spraying a 1000cc injector to the top of the wall where the tau layer forms...it STILL idles fine. I don't know how, and I swore it would never work... but it did. I changed my thoughts about how closed closed throttles really were after that eye-opener." And propped-open throttles is a relative thing. I don't think F1 idles that low. That would be like our engines idling at 250 to 300 rpms. You don't need much of an opening to allow an engine with really well atomized fuel to idle." "experience with 'closed' throttle plates made me rethink how closed they really were..." In other words you will need to calibrate the leak at each valve by the largest and crack the others to match then set your idle there. Atmospheric pressure is trying to get in there despite what seal YOU think is there and atomized fuel is going to follow suit. I actually pm'd Derek about his vacuum log and balance tube as his thread isnt clear how he has it setup. He has a balance tube cast into his "Horns" and I think he uses the vacuum log for idle control and sync between the 2 horn castings.

I may be missing something here related to fuel programing, but I dont see why there would be an issue with injecting up stream from the throttle valve. Take a good look at GM TBI(Not an ITB example but same basic principle). TBI injection systems with injectors placed in the velocity stack of the housing. Talk about a crud but effective system. I think injector nozzle angle, position, and the length of the stacks are probably going to assist in tuning out issues and probably more so more than programing will get ya, but only trial and error will tell. It seems like a very workable setup in theory to me, there is just a lot of trial and error in setting up a good system for a particular engine build(More than I even have a grasp of I think). EDIT: damn, Somehow I missed that part where Tony already mentioned the GM TBI setups...

Or you could mount the injector as described in this thread. Another way to mix fuel and air See the CSI 3.0 and posts about injector mounting above velocity stacks. That would be a killer setup if one were to happen to have a set of those RB26 throttle valves already handy...

I have posted a few times about slide dampener oil. The oil ONLY affects 1 thing. "Transitional Period" Specifically this is anytime you are dealing with 'acceleration'(Physics term here) across the bridge. To break it down simply, any time the throttle plate is MOVING or engine LOAD changes you are going to get 'acceleration'. Apply this to what Tony said above. The effect of the spring also plays some part in how fast the slide will open but it isnt its main purpose. I am not fully aware of all its affects to be quite honest. My speculation is that it plays a part in dampener harmonics much like the small valve springs and not so much as a limit for slide movement. After years of fooling around tuning SU's by ear and butt dyno I can say that you will NEVER get the mixture correct this way. You can get close, but with the inherit flaws with stock SU carbs, close isnt really close enough in my opinion. Using a 4 or 5 gas analyzer on a dyno or if need be on the street is going to be the BEST solution. Using a wideband is #2. The Gas analyzer was the tune of choice for many years with these cars and with the loss of carbureted vehicles it is becoming a lost art to tune this way. Of course if you tune this way your going to actually see the differences with each change and actually make some REAL progress. You will also see how each part affects the mixture at what event so it can become a learning lesson as well to become more intimate with the car, unless of course you are in a monogamous relationship already in which case I cannot condone your behavior. Cheers

Your Amp Gauge is wired with an inductive pickup. The 260Z has a unit mounted to the right side fender well just under the voltage Regulator. This unit has 4 wires. 2 big wires and 2 small wires. The big wires are a loop and the small wires loop around them on the inside of the unit. This is the pickup for the 260Z though. I am un-sure where the 240Z picks up its inductive signal. Once you have the circuit isolated(if desired to pull or reuse) you can move on to wiring the new voltage gauge in. I was never able to figure out how to setup the little red warning light with my alternator(not an old Datsun/Hitachi or Mitsubishi unit anymore). You will need to break out a wiring diagram for a 280Z and wire it as intended into your 240Z. You may be able to use the old pickup wires for the amp meter to run the voltage and the red warning light. I cant remember if it involves 2 or 3 wires on the dash side connector. If you cannot understand a wiring diagram its time to learn or find someone that can do this for you.

Yeah I got that they weren't the same book, but they both cover very similar subject matter. The older book has two authors, both books have different publishers and publish dates. The older one that is heavily based on the 510 stuff seemed to have more in it in regards to engine building as well. I believe you are right that it also covers chassis information as well. Who cant adapt L16 engine building to any other L series though, and there is quite a good coverage of in general engine building in there. Worthy enough for me to want my own copy. This was indeed the book. Im going to have to keep an eye out for a copy at swap meets. Bob Waar and Bill Fisher circa 1973. Unless Bob'd Wire is actually Bill Fisher. "The Book" that most of us younger folk have:

Still havent fixed the gap between the IC and Radiator have you? Cant tell if you rotated the TB 90* yet either from those pics... Get a real Camera! Jeez... It looks 4X better in person than those fuzzy things. And your not even going to show off that 3" mandrel exhaust system or custom trans mount? Come on man! These guys are gonna wanna see the details! Seriously though lots of people will be interested in seeing your trans mount as you have a CAT equipped floor pan.

I recently had a chance to look at this older publication "How to Modify Datsun 510, 610, 240Z Engines and Chassis". Its extremely similar to the newer "How To Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine". There are a few tid bits missing from either, but overall the older book has a ton more info in it even though Im sure the newer publication pulled a lot of the same sources maybe even from the older publication though I dont see mention of it in any credits. Its a shame I cannot find an inexpensive copy of the older one. I had never realized that the other older book existed. A friend of mine happened to have a 1970's copy around. Thought I would mention the older one for those like me that didnt know it existed.

Mocking it up on a spare E30 head and a saw horse. Lots of room between the headers and the mikunis Here are my clearance issues. The Air injection system will not fit with the Mikuni manifold. The Check Valve on the air injection tube will not clear the manifold or linkage rod tower. So then I decided to use option #2 header. As you can see with this header my AC compressor will have clearance issues as well. So I have to relocate the AC pump stuff down to the later L series location. Its not that big of an issue as I was going to go to a newer rotary pump anyway.

Extensive threads on BOV's & MAF sensors vs MAP. Most of it that I know of is related to the RB series engines. Theory is the same, execution may differ slightly, and just ignore the "RB" part and read L instead. This might help you better while using the "search" feature for this. Once you understand the theory you'll be ready to modify your existing setup and make revisions(re-engineer it).

Ive got a used one. I believe its an HKS MLS. 2MM thick gasket. Bores are 90.1mm as per my Harbor Freight caliper. But at least with the metal gasket you could in theory file the edge for clearance.

Another issue has arisen. The Mikuni Intake Manifold doesnt appear to clear the stock air injection stuff. It appears I will have to modify or indeed delete my air injection if I install this manifold. Is this the general consensus? I have the Trust/Greddy/Nissan Sport/etc header I can use that deletes the air injection ports I could use instead of my current header with air injection. Someone want to save me the time of test fitting all this stuff together. My build could be much easier without the air injection, but I was hoping to keep the AB valve as well as reduce the extra smell of the exhaust without the air. Without the air pump my crank trigger situation becomes a no-brainer install as I can use the later balancer and still retain my AC system as well as free up that extra 1.5-2hp the air pump uses. The only other downside to all this is that I will have to re-engineer my exhaust system for the new header. Mikuni Manifold Porting Info... Good Stuff I found while looking for fittment info. Ive got a breakdown of the build. I have $3800-4000 to spend on this max so Ive got to spend it wisely. Building an L series to make power isnt cheap. The process could take 3 or 4 months and I might be able to inject more money into this, but right now this is the amount I have to work with and Id like to get it running with that. Headwork ~$1250-$1500 includes -valve grind -valve seat R&R if needed -surfacing -street porting -camshaft setup -includes cam wipe pattern, stem heights, and spring installed heights -new lash pads -port matching intake manifold Camshaft ~$250 Valve stem seals viton "A" series $TBD Radiator $210 N42 valves $0 should have a set around that is usable Head Gasket $180 Bottom End machine work $TBD Piston Set $TBD Complete gasket & seal kit $0 Have one already Timing chain & tensioner set $120 Rod and Main bearings $140 Tomei Adj Cam gear $200 Ignition system -Ford COP set $60-$80 -dereks EDIS mount $200 -EDIS-6 module, sensor, wiring all used $25 -Megajolt $180 -Crank pulley $0 already have one ~$3000 so far That leaves very little for the machine work, pistons, and valve stem seals. Little to say about any problems that may arise during the whole thing. Little things have not been accounted for yet either. Hoses, fittings, etc So the plan has evolved to this setup: Bottom End L24 P30 Block 2.5mm overbore L28 Crank L28 Rods 85.5mm flat top pistons 81 turbo oil pump already have Clevett 77 main bearings & rod bearing ARP rod bolts ARP head studs Nismo .6mm head gasket MSL Timing chain and tensioner set Top End Tomei timing gear adjuster Isky regrind cam Lash pads for new cam N42 I and E valves replace felpro valve stem seals with Datsun "A" series viton engine valve stem seals for cam lift clearance polish combustion chambers light porting around seats Mikuni intake manifold dowel intake manifold for port fit Nissan Sport/HKS/Trust/Greddy/who ever else sold this header for use with Mikuni manifold Mikuni Solex Carbs 40PHH 2.721L displacement 10.6:1 static compression redline set at 7500 power building from 3000rpm to 7200rpm Premium fuel requirement probably dyno tuned on 110octane

There are 2 up top near the head. 1 is on the driver side where the bottom of the engine block extends out to the trans. Opposite side(passenger side) there is another bolt #4 not related to the 2 starter bolts at all and going into the bell housing from the same side as the other 3 previously mentioned. There should also be some aluminum brackets holding the bell housing to the block underneath(unless previously removed or missing). Then there might be 2 bolts with nuts holding the dust plate to the transmission on the very bottom. Once its all removed a firm shake usually breaks it loose. No pry bars needed.

Hopefully you checked your exhaust manifold flange for straightness? A straight edge and a feeler gauge goes a long way. Odds are that if you had a leak, you also have a warp and it should be checked.

There has to be an electrical engineer here that can help me out with Diode properties? I am going COP with my L24 at this point for sure. Im going to run them as waste spark and pair them. I went with Bryan Blakes Ford COP mounting bracket. I still want to know how to set this system up for a 2000 roadster that Id like to convert to electronic ignition. EDIS-4 and Megajolt should do it. A bench test will be needed to determine the output for the coil so I can choose a proper single coil. As stated above I need to source 3 diodes that will preform in this environment still. BRAAP pointed out in a PM that using a system with a electronic spark and a distributor is limited by rotor head width and diameter. The width is wide enough to spark 2 cylinders at once with the small diameter caps. My U20 has an even smaller cap, but its a 4 cylinder and has more gap than the L24 dizzy. It might work out.

Got mine today! Quality piece! As good or better than a factory part. Ill get back to you about the EDIS stuff Derek. Ive been trying to sort out the carbs at the moment and deal with ordering the cam... as well as normal everyday life. lol Many Thanks!

You all missed an important issue that was brought to my attention a couple years back: Tensile strength. Original Datsun/Nissan studs did not receive just a superseded part number. You will have to verify new studs and torque accordingly. There are 3 or 4 different studs out there. original studs, upgrade for those studs with supposedly better studs, and there are the turbo studs, and I believe they also had an upgraded stud come out for the turbo as well. Both the upgraded studs for the turbo and the non-turbo are orderable and possibly available through your local dealer. They were using high tensile strength originally which would get shocked and snap from heat cycling. They went to a slightly softer material capable of resisting the heat cycling. They also changed the protective coating over the years. But the important issue is that it becomes critical as to what you torque these to depending on which stud you end up with. Depending on which stud is in your hand will determine how well it handles the torque and heat cycling. Obviously then one would be more prone to failure than the other. Ive never had or seen a stud pull the threads out of a L series head. They almost always break flush or above. Ive over torqued a few of these and snapped them clean off. Yes I know, dumb right? Anyway threads were still fine. Those aluminum threads will take a beating. The studs are and were meant to be the weak point and they will break or strip before the cylinder head threads. Using the wrong studs could easily result in cylinder head thread damage(and we are not talking incorrect thread pitch). On my personal L6's I double gasket using the composite type gaskets(shiny silver ones). I use a Nissan stud, part number is in my build log somewhere, but its not a std L series stud and it works at 15lbs of torque. The stud I use is readily available and always in stock at the dealer. Its from a mid 90's Nissan is all I remember off hand. I started using this setup on my l28et with 18lbs of boost. If the heat cycling and back pressure didnt blow out the gasket or snap a stud there I figured its good enough for any of my non-turbo L series setups. I am not an expert on the subject. Im just relaying what I have learned. I spent a lot of time at dealership digging through Nissan studs an figuring out their applications and properties(which isnt easy). Then there was all the trial and error on my L28et and the ever warping manifolds. Perhaps someone with some real knowledge will chime in and confirm or deny my findings. All I know is it has worked for me for over 6 years and until it doesnt work anymore thats what Ill continue to do. I can torque all of them straight on but 1 on my SU's. With EFI there are like 2 studs that are hard to reach. Its the intake manifold that determines which ones you will be able to reach straight on. EFI has that heat shield to that has allowance for a socket, but it makes it even more difficult to get the socket on the nut. Late model ZX's seam to be the worst and it may be easier to remove the heat shield that hangs down vertically if you can get the 10mm headed bolts out. The ONLY time Ive seen thread damage in the head is when someone(including myself) attempts to remove a broken stud. The act of removing said broken stud causes the damage not the actually breaking of the stud. Drill bits, extractors, center punches, chisels, hammers, etc being the executioner of our threads not over torqued studs.

Beats the crap out of Robello's ~$850 for all 6 for JE...

No insult intended, but the 370Z looks to me like a Matchbox/Hot Wheels car anyway. The Strips look pretty good on that car. Must be the color. Did you try slanting the font to match the stripe angles? Blue on Blue for the "DATSUN" part isnt so bold either. Dotn know what color your ZX though.

They attached a metal loop on the rear most exhaust stud. Personally I wrap the engine with a 25' tow strap to form a cradle and pull it. I have never had a problem doing it this way. It has been my prefered installation method as well when I dont want to scratch new block paint. There is the possibility of slipping, but I always use common sense with where I am rolling the engine hoist, how tight I wrap the engine, and where exactly I run the tow strap through to ensure it wont go anywhere even if the engine does shifts in the home-made cradle. Im not one for stressing those exhaust studs any more than needed since they already get heated, cooled, and stretched way to much in my opinion. 10mm studs with slightly softer grade material should have been used... Nissan didnt get that one right until about 1998-2000 or so.

Tony, Back to the Mikuni intake manifold for a moment. It seems the throttle linkage has an issue. The stock throttle linkage mounted to the firewall does not align to the Mikuni Throttle shaft? What is missing? Was it not designed at all for the Z? I may have to call wolfcreekracing and see what Im missing. More phone calls. The phone call list is getting long.

I think I have missed something here: Unless the pin height is usable as is(34mm and 39.6mm do not work well with any L6 combo Ive tried so far) and then there is the 22mm wrist pin. Going to a full float requires a hone anyway though. "The Book" says and I quote: "Regardless of which way you go, the small-end bores must be honed to acheive the correct pin-to-bore clearance, not interference as with the pressed pins. Mike the piston pins, the hone the pin bores 0.0008-0.0011 in. (0.020-0.025mm) larger to give this clearance." How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun What is interesting is the Nissan Sports rod. 23.5mm brass bushing with 2 oiling holes on top. ~$100 set std style rings vs ~$100-$? for 6 fly cuts. These are rough numbers, but it just seems like the cost of your own time(or gas to the machine shop if you work for free) with dealing with the VW ones is still more than the ROSS set. What have I overlooked? Dont get me wrong, Id be in business for my 510 right about now, but Im 2 pistons short of an L6. hehehe pun intended