rayaapp2

I can get 8 for around $250 to my door for a set of high-silicon content casts. The forged ones on the site you provided were $285 for 4 plus shipping and possibly tax(I didnt check). So 2 sets is comparable to ROSS custom slugs at $550 plus shipping and tax. 85.5mm FORGED SLUGS from Pacific Customs Four vs Six prices or am I missing something here? I dont have access to a mill as of now.

Why?

Ah, so 85.5mm is a std 1600 bore. That is very good news! Im glad I emailed them. 87mm seemed like a big bore kit and I knew there might be something smaller. Those be Hypereutectic pistons. "Hypereutectic aluminum has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows engine designers to specify much tighter tolerances." Hell Yeah! Well hopefully I get an email back from AA Performance Products tomorrow or Ill make some time to call them as well! Those would be SWEET! I would just have make sure the machine shop knows how to setup the tolerances for them. I forgot to mention pin height, darn. Well you got me excited about it so Im going to star doing the research. I have been looking for a set of these for years. I wanted a set for my L28et for a long time, but eventually gave up. And you have been saying VW pistons for years... why didnt I listen? Thanks! 85.5mm Bore Set Just need to find out about full float options and pin height.

Limiting myself to the L24 block Tony. 85.5mm bores are pushing it from what I understand. 86mm is pretty much the limit. The block in my car is the original block and its what I already have so Im going with it. Whats the point in using cheap pistons if I have to spend $$$ for sleeves... I guess I could use an F54 block and go out to 87 with no issues, but I was really hoping to use the block that came with the car... Its the one thing that people say when faced with my 260Z, Oh you beat me because your using that engine under the hood... This time it will be, I did it with the original engine... See the numbers... lol That and the L24 is usually the first thing to get plucked out of a 240Z for an L28 so its just fun to say Ive got an L24 in there still. I did email them and ask if they could do an 85-85.5mm diameter piston in either cast or forged with the same specs as the VW.

Im going through a set of 40PHH side drafts to put on my 240Z. They came with K&N air cleaners and a set of big air horns. Horn Measurements in mm carb small side ID ~48mm big side of horn is 80mm OD height is ~50mm Then we have the 40PHH filter side measurements. Inside I find a step? Why is it stepped? It goes from ~48mm down to ~41.5mm in sharp 90° angles. ~3.25mm step for what? Maybe it has provision for a special slide in air horn(not the outer bolt on kind)? In any case the Air Horns I have do not appear to be functional with my setup. They are far to big, and the outer radius doesnt appear to be ideal for air horn functionality either. Am I correct in my thinking here that these things are just bling?

Hey Dan, Thanks for the input. More displacement has been a thought in the back of my mind during this design thought process. I actually have a full L28 rotating assembly. I need to have it magnafluxed, checked for true, polished, and checked for balance though. I figured I already have a good block so why buy another when its going to be the same amount of work. I like the idea of being able to program in my timing curve so Im stepping away from the old distributor. ~$400 for a new ignition system isnt to bad in the grand scheme of things. Higher compression = more resistance over the air gap. With a MSD Blaster 2 coil and pertronix ignitor my plug gap is pretty much limited to the stock gap size which leads me to think its just not a strong ignitor as the blaster 2 coil has been tested and preforms very well on other systems. Im sure with the MSD6A on there I could open the gap up a bit. Maybe .040"-.045" instead of .036". I am running split fires now as that is all they had in stock at the local stores. I will probably get std old copper cores when I do anything. Im ready for a stable, precise, high powered, programmable ignition even if I give up some stock look and have to mount ugly coil packs to my firewall and live with a waste spark system. As for forged pistons, I know I dont need them. They will be more hassle than cast pistons as I will have to let the car burn fuel away every cold start just to get them to expand properly so I dont cause excessive wear by loading the engine while cold. It makes more sense to run cast. That said I havent ever found a cast piston for the price and reputation that I can get in forged. You have OE which isnt worth the price from the dealer(I checked in 03 and they were still available), then there is ITM pistons which sound good in theory but have no reputation that Ive ever been able to find and they are pretty much out of STD sizes and they are limited on oversize sizes so finding 85, 85.5, or 86 in a flat top may not even be possible if I could get a reputable user saying "YES", and well that pretty much concludes all that I can find in new. Full float wrist pins, custom pin height, ring thickness and placement are all custom definable with forged slugs. How else would I get higher compression? Not needing valve reliefs would be nice. Ive been busy with the holidays and family so I still havent called Isky. Its on my list. In fact I havent made time to call anyone about anything since before the holidays. Its the Holidays anyway so they were probably a closed til tomorrow anyway.

STICKY: NA 3.1L=>head & camshaft questions. No shortcuts, max There is some applicable info in this thread for your valve relief clearance. PTV = Piston To Valve Clearance Im sure. Modeling Clay check is a good place to start. As far as general tolerances I can only give you a vague opinion. The stock L series valves are stainless. I am assuming that aftermarket stainless valves will have very similar expansion characteristics so personally I would feel that the PTV clearances would be extremely similar. The general clearance for a stock L series valve should be the same for yours in my opinion, but you should obviously make sure if you can or error on the safer side. You should be able to ask a reputable L series cylinder head builder what kind of clearances to run for your specific setup. With very little time I found a handful of them using the search feature here and there are a few registered here on hybridzs.

Back in 2005 I tried to get enough interest in a Cometic gasket. That didnt work out. The other MLS gaskets were still available though. I think they would have cost around $200-$175 ea. My contact ended up ignoring my emails I think. I had ~8 people interested, but you never know how many would have followed through.

Crack open the "How to Modify your Datsun" book, or go buy one and crack it open. Lots of general, but good stuff in there. There is a specific section about head gaskets. I think you'll find some amount of oil and water seepage to be fairly "normal" under long periods of run time even with a metal prep like copper spray or what have you. Not to say that it will always seep, but that they have a natural tendency to seep. Personally for my on highway vehicles I run MLS or OE composite.

Trying not to totally thread jack here, but: Tony, do you remember the thread I made about identifying the triple manifold and you asked why I wanted to be able to connect to each port? I had more reasons than I stated there for wanting a disconnect-able balance tube. Until yesterday I have been without an AB valve and my vacuum throttle pull-off assembly is not adjusted correctly. This is a major reason for my cars stinky decel(mostly the AB valve). I plan on connecting the AB valve to the plenum tube with the triples as well as the PCV valve. There was a post made by Derek about the custom itb horns he has on his car were he made a balance tube with the IAC and such on the block. Id like to do something much like that only in tube form. Seems like an easy solution for connecting up all the emissions stuff that keep the car from loading up the exhaust with fuel and back firing/smelling bad.

Both seals on the hatch have been removed... because there was nothing left of them to seal. I need to order new ones. CO wasnt that bad on my car. There's plenty of moving air through the car that its not going to suffocate me. It gets strong smelling on decel with the window rolled down that creates a vacuum affect on the rear hatch seal. The low pressure in the car invites that exhaust in and passes by me on its way out the drivers side window. The effect isnt there with the windows rolled up or both windows down. Like your plenum box. Its not dis-similar to what I had in mind. I have the aluminum around from the foils and belly pan I made up for my 260Z so I thought I would put it to use. Square stock works too.

apparently the EDIS module has the ignitor units built into it so my idea wont work as wired above. Someone have some valuable input here for setting this thing up so it looks like I have a functioning distributor?

I have been digging around to figure this out. I came across this post. LS1 EDIS It appears the EDIS module has the built in ignitor unit and NOT the coil packs. So Im back to square one with figuring out how to run the EDIS as a crank fire only. Any ideas?

I will be making one from scratch. Air craft body aluminum, pop rivets, and some liquid nails for the seams in the plenum box. Im planning on running it to the front where the filter will be. Im using the 432 box pictures that I have for a good reference. I need to source some quick latches from the junk yard and I should be good to start playing around with it. I also need to buy a set of real air horns. I have a set that bolt to my 40's, but they are obviously just bling and belong on some 44 or 45 carbs. Fingers crossed that it comes out functional and looks half descent.

How many points of slack can you think of between crankshaft and the optical CAS in the stock distributor? The stock CAS itself is good within something like 2 degrees, but there is still all that play in the shaft down to the crank between the rotor shaft and drive quill, then the worm drive at the crank. Not everyone has a ZX turbo CAS either. The EDIS is a known good replacement and for those of us that want a little extra control on our spark the crank trigger EDIS setup is a good option. The crank is an ideal spot to measure crank angle dont you think? Since that is what we base our ignition timing from then it makes the most sense to measure that angle directly. The cam is the second choice in my opinion, but requires more work than either the stock location or the crank for the L series. Just my opinion. To some it might just be "bling".

I have Highlighted these quotes for you. The key word is "Closed" and yours K&N's are open or exposed to the engine bay. The gas can simply vent to atmosphere with minimal restriction from the float bowl. Mikuni side drafts have an accelerator pump located on the bottom of the carb. Ive never had a set of side draft Webers in my hands to compare with, but if you have yours down there as well, I would think about installing a heat shield. If your pump diaphragms are cooked from all that heat they will eventually leak. Leak = gas smell. Next time you go to start the car. let it run for 30 secs and shut it off. Goose the throttle a couple of times and then run your hand under the center of each carb and see if it comes out wet and smelling of gas. If not get a heat shield under there and continue to search for your vapor issue. "it's not a modern car with total captive emissions containment.". Ive actually tested both my 260Z and 240Z evap systems. I have replaced all the 35-40 year old rubber hoses in both cars related to these systems though. Both of these cars tested to a .020" leak which is the standard for a brand new vehicle in Ca. 1999 model year and older are required to have no more than a .040" leak in the evap system(yes I tested with the whole evap system including the gas cap!). The stock system exceeds the old standard and is at par with current vehicle standards. The only way in which it allows vapors to vent to atmosphere is the the jet nozzles on the stock SU's are loaded at all times and the float bowl vents that are located on the inside of the closed element air cleaner where as an injector would be closed. That's pretty darn sealed up in stock form. I believe 99% of the "my Datsun smells like gas" complaints are from faulty/unmaintained systems. The only smells I get are HC's coming out my exhaust pipe and through my hatch's missing seal during decel in gear... that can sometimes burn my eyes... its significantly worse with the window rolled down. lol Its not totally sealed, but I dont get raw gas smells with stock SU's. A similar system can and should be implemented for the webers or mikuni side draft carbs. I will be addressing this same issue with a set of Mikuni/Solex side drafts soon as well. I guess the point is if you get it setup like stock, strong fuel vapors will not be an issue in my opinion.

IGNITION SYSTEM Crank Fire With Distributor I made this post for my L24 build, but thought I would re-post it in its own thread. It looks like a crank fire ignition system is about $350 on the low side. Ive only had about a week of messing around on the computer with non-mega squirt style EDIS systems so I may be going about this all wrong. EDIS appears to be the most inexpensive route and the most common for the average joe such as myself to get control of his spark. Feel free to put me in my place as always guys. If I go this route(which is my preference) I would like the run the L6 EDIS system. The problem is that I do not want use the coil pack. The other problem is that I will need a driver still to do timing curve and such. The best solution so far looks to be a system called Megajolt Ver 4 made by Autosport Labs(or at least sold by). This unit costs $162 plus shipping. That actually seems reasonable when comparing to others like the MSD 6AL-2 at far over $200. EDIS ideas part 1 EDIS ideas part 2 EDIS Mega Squirt EDIS Mounting Solution #1 So provided that no one has a better solution for the price here is what I can come up with. Using the Megajolt system and the Ford EDIS system my 240z would require the tach adapter mod addressed here as I have a current driven tach. There are other ways of doing this as well, but I like this one. The goal here would be to retain as stock a looking car as possible. So the big problem of using a coil pack needs to be addressed. My first thoughts here are to gut the stock distributor and weld/braze the drive shaft and rotor shafts together. Basically it will look like the inside of an 81 turbo dizzy. So this only leaves rotor to cap air gap as an ignition issue, which for what Im doing should not be an issue... I just need a good coil(which I have not addressed yet). The next issue with using just one coil is that the Motorcraft EDIS unit has 3 outputs for the coil pack. I'm almost positive these signals are NOT amplified. The Motorcraft coils must have an internal amplifier. So the key is to rectify the 3 signals into 1 and amplify the signal. This will most likely be the hardest part, but I don't see another way to retain the stock looking distributor. I can hear everyone already: telling me to just use the coil pack. The extra work isn't worth it A rectifier bridge ran to an amplifier piggy backed onto the EDIS unit should pull this off. I just don't have specs yet to build this circuit and I don't know if I could design this one correctly. I think I could build a basic rectifier that would handle the situation, but ignition amplifiers/ignitors require a lot more thought and experience than I have. I have that MSD 6A that I could use as the ignitor/multispark, but I have no idea if thats a good idea or not. This only works though if the EDIS fires each signal wire with DCv though which I have not verified. This of course would delete the waste spark function. Then there is the fact that my car is running a dealership installed AC system and Air Injection still. I dont plan on taking these items off the car. The old York compressor and a few other things will be getting replaced with a rotatory style R134a retrofit during this build as well. So the Air Pump and a AC compressor is installed on the driver side of the block(no im not running the one that goes over the fuel pump). This means my front balancer has an extra pulley on the front and and a fan clutch extender. All this adds up to a special crank trigger install. I don want to delete my timing plate to do this. Derek's balancer and sensor mounts wont work from what I have gathered. I think the reluctor wheel will need to be mounted on the backside of the balancer pulley or a complete redesign of my belt system is a must. Maybe one of those 3 or 4 groove belts would be optimal, but Im not spending a ton of money to convert over to that. I think that is going way to far down the rabbit hole for now. My probably overly-complicated and yet still incomplete ignition circuit.

I know that Im going to have to have valve reliefs. Hopefully some modeling clay and triple measurement will get it right. My head, and planned piston height are to close with the gasket I think Im going to end up with(Nismo .6mm)

IGNITION SYSTEM Crank Fire With Distributor It looks like a crank fire ignition system is about $350 on the low side. Ive only had about a week of messing around on the computer with non-mega squirt style EDIS systems so I may be going about this all wrong. EDIS appears to be the most inexpensive route and the most common for the average joe such as myself. Feel free to put me in my place as always guys. If I go this route(which is my preference) I would like the run the L6 EDIS system. The problem is that I do not want use the coil pack. The other problem is that I will need a driver still to do timing curve and such. So as with the rest of this thread this is a design it out and figure costs of the system to make it workable. The best solution so far looks to be a system called Megajolt Ver 4 made by Autosport Labs(or at least sold by). This unit costs $162 plus shipping. That actually seems reasonable when comparing to others like the MSD 6AL-2 at far over $200. EDIS ideas part 1 EDIS ideas part 2 EDIS Mega Squirt EDIS Mounting Solution #1 So provided that no one has a better solution for the price here is what I can come up with. Using the Megajolt system and the Ford EDIS system my 240z would require the tach adapter mod addressed here as I have a current driven tach. There are other ways of doing this as well, but I like this one. The goal here would be to retain as stock a looking car as possible. So the big problem of using a coil pack needs to be addressed. My first thoughts here are to gut the stock distributor and weld/braze the drive shaft and rotor shafts together. Basically it will look like the inside of an 81 turbo dizzy. So this only leaves rotor to cap air gap as an ignition issue, which for what Im doing should not be an issue... I just need a good coil(which I have not addressed yet). The next issue with using just one coil is that the Motorcraft EDIS unit has 3 outputs for the coil pack. I'm almost positive these signals are NOT amplified. The Motorcraft coils must have an internal amplifier. So the key is to rectify the 3 signals into 1 and amplify the signal. This will most likely be the hardest part, but I don't see another way to retain the stock looking distributor. I can hear everyone already: telling me to just use the coil pack. The extra work isn't worth it A rectifier bridge ran to an amplifier piggy backed onto the EDIS unit should pull this off. I just don't have specs yet to build this circuit and I don't know if I could design this one correctly. I think I could build a basic rectifier that would handle the situation, but ignition amplifiers/ignitors require a lot more thought and experience than I have. I have that MSD 6A that I could use as the ignitor/multispark, but I have no idea if thats a good idea or not. This only works though if the EDIS fires each signal wire with DCv though which I have not verified. This of course would delete the waste spark function. Then there is the fact that my car is running a dealership installed AC system and Air Injection still. I dont plan on taking these items off the car. The old York compressor and a few other things will be getting replaced with a rotatory style R134a retrofit during this build as well. So the Air Pump and a AC compressor is installed on the driver side of the block(no im not running the one that goes over the fuel pump). This means my front balancer has an extra pulley on the front and and a fan clutch extender. All this adds up to a special crank trigger install. I don want to delete my timing plate to do this. Derek's balancer and sensor mounts wont work from what I have gathered. I think the reluctor wheel will need to be mounted on the backside of the balancer pulley or a complete redesign of my belt system is a must. Maybe one of those 3 or 4 groove belts would be optimal, but Im not spending a ton of money to convert over to that. I think that is going way to far down the rabbit hole for now. My probably overly-complicated and yet still incomplete ignition circuit.

For Racer Brown, I was looking specifically at what he had to say about street engines and "warrior weekend" engine builds. I was actually wanting to compare all the available grinds including the stock "A" and "C" cams... mostly out of curiosity. Everybody's so secretive about their cam grinds with these Datsuns... I dont get it. If you want a V8 Chevy or Ford, the cam specs are available and usually included in the box with a cam card that gives info about the cam as installed "straight up". There are still aspects of the cam profile that do not show up on a full cam card so its not like they are giving up the secret sauce? Right? In any case, As soon as normal business resumes this Holiday season I will be calling up Ron. Sounds like the kind of person I have been searching to talk to(fingers crossed). Ive been meaning to call Isky for a while now(before ktm mentioned them I BRAAP recommended them and I had been reading a few old threads about cams). Ive been out of town without a working phone for a while now. When I get home my sim card is going into my backup phone(yes Im that prone to doing this) and going on standby for normal business hours. lol

I have PM'd one of the moderators a couple times about this as well. I have adds elsewhere and things sell, prices drop, and I trade and sell other items on a regular basis as to support my hobby rather than spend all my income. Hybridz is one of the few places I dont get heckled or spammed. That being said I think it's really important to keep this section of the website clean and clear cut(selfishly, for the sake of my hobby). One thread a month is cool with me, but only if I have control of the "EDIT" feature. I'd pretty much never make a new for sale thread again if I had the edit feature back, so that rule would be a moot point with me. I had often searched and bumped my own for sale threads in the past. I cannot do it now because the thread itself becomes so cluttered and disorganized by adding and deleting items as time goes on. I dont know how many people will read into page 2,3, etc to see if the items are still available... Pages could easily be reduced with the edit feature available. I would not delete adds. Using the "Lock" feature is better. Sometimes it's nice to use old adds for comparison when your thinking about selling or buying something. I like to post the actual sold price in some of adds for others that do the same. I don't usually do this here on Hybridz to spare the bump since I cannot edit. I feel the current rules make sense, but some of the old "lock" and "edit" features should be restored to help relieve both the moderators and the thread starters of headaches. I'm unsure the reasoning behind these features disappearing though. Another thing that might help is slightly more adds per page or a user defined amount of adds per page much like ebay has implemented(I know this may be a stretch). I don't care if I have to scroll down and pretty much everyone is going to go to the end of the page when they look. Personally I will search the first 2 pages and stop. Posts after that are usually old/half dead things from my experience. Thanks Paul or whom ever else is listening up there in Hybridz heaven...

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/ is not energy direct. Energy does NOT sell directly to consumers. 3-4 months ago the price was 169.xx for the HyperFlex kit for a 240z. That kit also does not include a few things. I have found these hyperflex kits using google for around 160ish. 7.18101g on google SEARCH?

Here is what I was able to figure out after tracing Kevin's car down. He had a bad 4 wire tach and something grounding the power circuit for the tach in the Fuel gauge.

Re-check your emergency flasher switch as well Kevin. Something was up with your flashers before you replaced the tach. Only the right side worked. You should have a spare emergency flasher switch around with the dash you just picked up right? Try replacing it to see if anything changes with the turn signals or flashers. Pull and inspect the bulbs as well Beyond that and the bulbs and actual flasher units(which seemed to work while I was there) are the only easy replacement parts that burn out in those flashers and emergency flasher circuits. As for the head lights Im not sure how you ran those. Are the added lights on a separate circuit or did you run them through the original headlight circuit? Or did you just hook up those lights you just bought and have it connected as stock now? Did you pull both the combo and turn signal switches apart to clean them? Verify those work correctly with your ohm meter and the circuit specs I sent you. .2ohms max You will have to familiarize yourself with those switches functions and test the circuits running through them. Most of the time I find the problem in the switch or fuse box here. Beyond all that you will need to preform a "voltage drop test" or the isolated continuity test as I showed you the other day through both of those circuits. For everyone else Kevin needs a good copy of the 1971 240Z wire schematic. I sent him one that I thought was the 71, but it doesnt match some of the wire colors in his car. Kevin has very little electrical background and he is doing his best to learn what he has seen. I went completely through his ignition circuit, but didnt have more time to hang around to check everything after pulling the dash from his 240Z. If anyone that has time and a little patience to teach Kevin and help him with his car, he is pretty eager to learn.

Tomei Manifold via their website Tomei Web site