rayaapp2

I lost your number or you would have heard from me about a few things lol Im going to be down in your area today. Check your private messages for my phone number. Give me a call if your available and I will stop by! Thanks

as the title says, Im looking for a headlight bucket for an early 240Z. I need the DRIVER side bucket. Prefer OE dark blue or white. No cracks. The mounting studs need to be there as well. I am in Sacramento Ca. Not sure what they are worth. I actually threw a few of these way 5 months ago as they wouldnt sell for $10. Let me know what you are asking for them. Include shipping to Sacramento Ca 95827. I will ask for pictures. Email is prefered Thanks, Ray

I had the guys at school dyno the car again with the new stuff listed above. 264HP peak 215torque during the same run... I made 236ft/lbs on an earlier run with 261hp. I bought the Genuine Greddy intake for the car and sold the knockoff Freddy intake. Im going to get that on soon. Im going to start saving for a power FC with the boost controller solenoid next. Early next year hopefully.

Its been a while since Ive made an update. I have purchased several things in the past 4 months. I resurfaced my flywheel with Cascar for $35 Exedy Clutch from PDQ transmissions in Sac ~$350 SS Performance Coils from Raw Brokerage ~$400+ Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator from Tidus Nissan aka NismoParts.com $118 Bosch 300LPH Fuel pump from 034MotorSports $200 1976 280Z Fuel Tank with -8 AN pickup from StealthZ $50 APEXi Turbo Timer new from ebay $80 NGK copper plugs @ .030" I found that the Pilot Bearing and the Throw Out Bearing could be used from the L series setup. If it makes a difference the pilot bearing and throw out bearing where from a clutch kit for my 83 280zx turbo. The car is driving great! I also started to upgrade the brakes. 84 Toyota 4 piston calipers installed R32 master cylinder and booster waiting to get installed. 280zx rear calipers/rotors waiting to get installed. need to buy new brakes lines and rear caliper brackets I have also been building a new intake manifold. I purchased a Freddy manifold. It arrived Polished after I ordered the Raw Cast. So that has been a set back. I have a modified Q45 90mm throttle body. I purchased a few silicone couplers for the IC from 034MotorSports. 1 3.5" 45* coupler, 1 3.5" T tube with 1.25" T for air regulator/IAC, 1 3.5" to 3" 90* coupler, 1 3" to 2.5" 90* coupler. I have been doing trade work with 034MotorSports, so Ive only paid about $120 for all the pipe an couplers so far. It would have been $30 ea plus the piping @ $50-$60. Ive got the polished Freddy for sale. Hopefully someone will pick it up. I will turn around and purchase the raw cast one or just give in and buy the Greddy. Ray

I forgot you cant always see the picture there are 6 wires. The unit pulls power from 12V constant source. I used the big white/red wire at the ignition switch. the wires coming off the unit are: source 12V RED ignition BLUE accessory GRN O2 WHITE e brake light GREY ground BLK So it senses ignition off and pulls power from the constant back to the ignition through the built in relay device.

That probably wont work. The ignition wire for the timer is hooked directly to the ignition wire on the car. It appears it uses this wire as a sensor circuit. I think the timer senses the power being turned off and then powers up the circuit. So putting a diode between the timer and the ignition would not work with this particular unit. There isnt any other way that I can fathom that this unit works.

Actually I am not using the APEXi specific wire harness. I made a phone call to their tech line to find out what those 3 wires were for and how to hook them up. They do not make a specific harness for my 1974 Datsun...lol I cannot find a source on the turbo timer to run a simple relay cut switch from. That has been the problem since I started. I feel better now though that someone is on the same page as me though.

Flyback diode on the relay coils to protect the ECU circuit. Personally I have a RB25DET swap. The starter solenoid signal wire was a 10 gauge wire. I dont have an amp probe that will handle more than 10 amps without frying. So I was stuck with assuming that the large wire that wasnt very long was designed to handle a large current. That is why I installed the relay, but I should have installed a flyback diode to prevent that relay coil from killing the circuit in the ECU. And the same thing with the fuel pump circuit. I installed the APEXi Pen sized turbo timer 405-A011 using the circuit above. Its installed correctly. I'd triple checked it before realizing that the wiring was not an issue, but really it was the original design on the starter circuit inside the ignition switch. At first glance this timer doesnt have an output that can be used to trigger the new relay. I may have to open the "relay" box up that was included with the turbo timer to find what we are looking for. Most of my high amp circuits are running from relays now. The Ignition wire runs relays for the fuel pump and the ecu. this is the APEXi wiring diagram

Ill do some research on an "anti-grind" circuit. Can you fill me in a bit more of how it might be built? Personally I have set my starter circuit up on a relay already. I isolated the starter circuit on the car to kick a relay. This protects the ECU "start" circuit as I have a swap. So the solenoid isnt connected in anyway to the ECU, though I should have installed a diode as well... same thing with the fuel pump relay. So I may be half way there already. Thanks for the GREAT start! Im not sure how this could be implemented.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/478530/478530#msg-478530 "there must be a diode in the adapter harness to prevent a backfeed through the circuit board re-engaging the starter..." Tony D May be a step in the correct direction

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=155605 Found the PROBLEM Im still looking for a solution. Ignition switch circuits are to blame. Not sellers or manufactures. Installers should have figured this out or they should not have been hard wiring any unit into the cars.

So Ive discovered something new about the starting circuit in my Z. Its obvious now, but I didnt realize it until I installed my turbo timer. I have a 74 which for all purposes has been setup like a 240Z. So no more inhibitor system or any of that non-sense. After the Turbo timer was installed the car engages the starter when the key is put to the lock position to be pulled out. I fused with the wiring for about an hour before realizing the ignition switch spins about 210 deg from its locked position. This means there is a point where the starter contacts pass each other before the "garage" or "off" position is reached and then the circuit is powered up and the contacts are engaged at the start position. So if we leave everything powered up and bypass the ignition switch then when we sweep past the "garage" or "off" position and turn towards the "lock" position again the starter circuit which is still powered up is completed and the starter is engaged. Hopefully that makes sense. I know what the problems is now. The question is, IS there an elegant and simple solution to this? How can I make both these systems work together without this interference and still retain a stock look? Im not wanting to install a switch that has to be flipped or something like that. My wife drives the car, so it has to be easy. Maybe a relay or something. My brain is a little fried at the moment. Ray EDIT LOOK its 5 year old problem!! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90203 BTW, Ive bought from Japandy as well. Very favorable experiences in the past. I bought my current unit NEW. APEXi unit. Its not the units fault nor the seller. Its our cars. The Ignition switch circuits were not designed to be doing what we are doing to them. I would venture a guess that any of the models with a similar ignition switch... 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280zx, and Z31 would all suffer from this same problem. Newer ignitions may also as I have some 90's SX and Q45 units that look like a similar setup.

Better to find someone to modify the AWD pan. I have a couple of those pans. Ron at Venus says he has a guy that can do the modification for pretty cheap, but I never got any farther looking into that.

Curious where someone has a fairlady clip for $300? Ive got one listed for $450 picked up $500 dropped off within 100 miles. As far as installing this into a LHD car goes, To do it right you will need to do major surgery to your car. Drill out the spot welds that hold the "A" pillars from the door column hinge mounts and Dash/Cowl is a starting point. Then drill out the spot welds to remove the rocker from the firewall/floor pan extension and the door column hinge mount. The firewall can is spot welded to the floor pans across and over the trans tunnel. Then you will need to decide which set of frame rails to use and work from there. You will have to double this work on the donor clip to make it fit like a neat jig saw puzzle. It is important you keep in mind that the body will be weakened during all this removal and welding. You will most likely need to build a jig to keep it straight. You will also have form that jig that centers the EMPTY front cross member in the car where it currently is to keep the car straight and so it has a good alignment. The inner fender wells are similar to LHD stuff but are enough different that you might as well just use these ones. Bumper mounts are almost identical to 240Z(not sure there is a difference, but definitely not 260 or 280). Radiator support is like a 280Z. The door hinge column areas are mirrored from the LHD stuff so if you want to use the RHD harness, which you need to do to fit the RHD stuff, then you need to incorporate those as well. There will be some lead filler clean up when your done around the bottom of the "A" pillars. That's just the body stuff. Then you need to figure out if you got all the RHD parts to fit the clip. Hope that doesnt discourage you. If you like to do projects like this for fun(like me), then you should like this. Its definitely a HARD on the easy-hard scale. Ray

Very sad. I snapped some pictures of Stealth-Z's car leaving as well. I own the blue 260Z in the foreground. Im trying to add my name to the list here. Im looking at buying another friends FairladyZ 2+2 autobox. Its just sitting in his back yard. Im hoping he bites at my offer. 2+2 automatic... Ive really lost.

All the 1970 and early 1971 240Zs I have ever seen have had this hand throttle, or at least the spot in the center console for it. I dont know when it was no longer used, but it was part of the Fiberglass center console as the backing plate is all cut for the 2 levers and the plastic cover plate is also cut for the levers. On the Roadsters the throttle cable is attached above the pedal to the beginning of the pedal linkage. I kinda figured it would not disengage like electronic/pneumatic cruise. What is funny is that your right about the lever on the LH side... Even though they are all marked "Choke" on '72 -'74. Thanks for the insight behind its actual use. ray

I can see that being a possible problem. I cannot find a single reference to the cable being still connected. My 68 Datsun 2000 has the same thing built into the dash. Its a neat idea. I will have to consider not hooking it up now. The next thing to tackle is those 2/3 switches that are just rearward of those 2 cable levels. One is parking lamps on the passenger side and the other is the rear defroster/defogger. Thanks

So Im working on a 71 240z with the throttle cable in the center console. Im trying to hook it back up. Ive searched over the internet for anything. Where and how does the cable hook up? Ray

I have a stock RB25. Maf and all... lol Peak power is suppose to be made at 6800rpm I had a spark plug miss fire at 5000rpm and still put down 252hp and 233 ft/lbs My AFR was a bit to lean as well. Thats a very reasonable number for a stock 26. Congrats

I have a 1971 240Z Im looking to sell to a good home. I sent you a PM please read it then go check my add at http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151939 lets make a deal if your interested. Ray

This may be quick and stupid. I dont know to much about the RB20 transmission is the problem, I have access to one though and I was looking at the bell housing. Almost all the holes look like they line up to the L series block. It is obvious that one bolt hole on the left hand side of the trans that will not work. For reference on the right side is where the starter goes. Even the starter looks like it would work though Im not sure it would align to the L series flywheel teeth. I dont have a free L series block to mount it on. I only have 1 block and its buried in a car that has a front clip on top of it from another car. So what Im saying is that I noticed some similarities and one obvious difference. The RB20 transmission is becoming very easy to get over here in California. I have also noted that the RB20 transmission is extremely similar to the KA24 5spd, or at least the outer casing. I would venture a guess that its the same transmission with slight variations in the the gearing ratios and bell housing. They have the same Main Shaft size and spline as the old L series. Maybe someone has a spare block and access to the RB20 transmission to find out? I know that there were people using the KA24 5spd on their L series. Maybe this is another option. Thought I would share some speculation with the L series forum

Putting it all back to where I was a few days ago and running, Working on 1968 2000. The body is hovering 3' above the pictures and still needs me to replace the passenger side door pillar as it is rusted out. Its my wifes car and she says I have to get focused on it so it will be done in time. If I would have jumped on it earlier I could have been ready for the car shows in mid August that take place around Carmel/Pacifc Grove/Monterey.

Well as you can see by the pictures I am short a bunch of fittings and piping. Seems like the consensus from people on other forums is that this manifold will work just fine on a stock or close to stock RB25det with no problems. Its a tight fit with the 200sx radiator, and shouldn't be a problem with the other radiators that mount the hose on a side tank like most aftermarket installs do with this swap. I think Ive come to the end of the line with this manifold. The gap in cash for all the piping and fittings is too much for me at this time. I have 68 2000 to get done by Sept 09 and it still needs media blasted and the frame is almost ready for powder coat. So my funds are pouring into that car at this time. If someone wants to pickup where I left off Im looking at selling the manifold for what I have into it... which is too much, but it satisfied my curiosity. If not it can collect dust in my garage like a lot of other things.

I asked around about that and couldnt get a straight answer. Most said it doesnt matter where it goes. I could put it on the other side with a little more work. Im not sure the Greddy Valve in the picture will actually function correctly with stock boost. It wont adjust low enough and I dont have another spring to put in there. So I may have to rethink the BOV completely or just get over it and turn up the boost till that BOV will work.

Im running out of piping and couplers are gone so Im resorting to tape to mock it up. Any idea where to get 3" couplers made from high quality(example of low quality "SPECTRE") Silicone. I wish I could find the Greddy stuff. Also I cant find 15 or 30 degree bends... Strange as most intercooler pipe manufactures will specify a 15 degree or less bend or reducer/expander. 15 degrees seems to be a general rule of thumb and i cannot find bends in that degree. Whether or not i go this route I plan on keeping the intercooler. With this intercooler I am unsure how to mount the AC fan. Well with any intercooler up there Im not sure how to mount such a fan. Any ideas? Is it ok to put a fan over the intercooler to get to the condenser?