rayaapp2

Ive had very good luck with the updated part number for the 280zx turbo studs. I recently paid $40 for the studs from the local Dealership. I have the part number somewhere. I use exhaust bolts from another Nissan engine to replace the 3 center studs on the exhaust. I reuse the large conical washers as well(DO NOT FORGET THESE). Ive heard good things about Palnets kit for installation, but not so good about long term and trying to get them back off again.

40 year old cars make up an extremely low percent of vehicles on the road overall. Its suppose to be random. So they would be included in the randomization. vehicles older than 1966 do not have SMOG requirements. If you have a '66 - '75 you DO have requirements that you are suppose to adhere to. You would fall into the except from bi-annual inspection, but not SMOG except. So they could be randomly tested for compliance at any time. Its the law. I will say that it sucks, but it is the law. Generally speaking I have found that for the most part you will not be hassled in one of these vehicles, but you can be held to compliance if your on a public road. The newest thing on the plate is smogging all 1966 and newer commercial plated vehicles. This covers any vehicle that is designed to carry a load rather than passengers. Classic Trucks are not exempt. I guess in Southern Ca older trucks are being pulled over often that do not adhere to their own SMOG criteria. They are being used by smaller business ie gardeners, construction, etc., and they are in such disrepair that they fall into the Gross Polluter standards as held up by their original emissions specs. The fact is that these types of trucks are cheap to buy and they can run around until they "blow" with very little emissions consideration. Id hate to see classic trucks suffer this fate. I cannot imagine having to smog an early Blazer, early Bronco, or 520 pickup.

Yes they are. Recently they have been sighted in the Sacramento/Davis/Chico area stopping people on the highways with their mobile ASM trailer. This strategy has worked well in LA, and has given BAR valuable data on the current state of our vehicles. Its not difficult at all. There are guidelines laid out in black and white. There are several Appendix's as well that grant a huge leeway to Modifiers/Swappers. There are several sources of information out there as well that are used by Smog Techs and Referees that will back you up in a pinch. You will find most of what you need simplified here: http://www.bar.ca.gov/, or if you want the letter of the law, which I dont find to hard to understand you are looking for California Code of Regulations. Ignorance of the Law is not an excuse as they say. So if your planning a swap you better know what your doing isnt breaking the law. Fines and Penalties can be harsh. BUT as I said there is provision for those of us that like to modify and swap. Lots of lee-way written into the laws to promote engine swaps as a way to clean up an older vehicle emissions. Its not hidden somewhere secret either. Appendix G outlines aftermarket parts.

It seems I had miss-wired the pertronix unit. I will need to confirm the repair with the dwell meter next chance I have. I had the pertronix unit connected on the distributor side of the the dropping resister(ballast if you prefer). You would think installation instructions would have come with the unit. At least its correct now and the pertronix unit seems to be unharmed. Before: Correct wiring:

My Dwell is sitting at 22 instead of the 35-41. The pertronix unit has counter sunk screws on both sides to eliminate adjustment. Im not sure how to get any more coil saturation. Im having a hard time accelerating to freeway speeds and using the upper RPM range. I set my idle, set my timing and decided to check dwell after everything checked out. This just doesnt sound correct? HELP?

Found one locally thanks!

From valve cover base to head gasket surface? Any particular areas that I should be measuring from (i.e. on the back of the head, front of head, and each side)? Thanks

I am looking for someone to tell me how to check the heads current thickness so that I can determine how much meat has been milled off the gasket surface. I dont have any specs and I am not sure if there is a specific place/places to check the height. What is the std thickness for our the the L series heads? Does that thickness vary in each casting or relatively the same? In my particular case I have an E31 that has obviously been milled before and Im milling it again. I need to know how much surface is missing to compensate the cam towers. Ray

I may have something local. Im still looking. I get the cylinder head back tomorrow. So I have a few days yet to get one. Ray

found them new $112 ea

What do you want for the rail itself? Dont you hate it when you realize you've had piles of the part you need at some specific moment and now that its all been thrown in the trash you have buy another. Man that's frustrating. Ray

As the add states, I need the spray bar for my L24. I replaced the cam and the old one fell out in three pieces. I prefer within 50 miles of the greater Sacramento Area. I need it ASAP. Thanks Ray

I need just the front pair. Im looking for new. thanks

Hey Chris, Im just going to do a valve job on it, hot jet wash it, and clean the HG surface with the mill for a good seal. Im not planning on a whole lot more than that. I might use some of that can of pink crack detector stuff on it to make sure it has good combustion chambers before I go through all that. My Bandwidth is being limited by my ISP right now. It has been for just over a week. They had a plane crash into one of their main hubs that services my area. Its caused many problems with our cable, phone, and internet. We've been issued a refund for the inconvenience, but Im still noticing slow connectivity even on my end. I also have been busy posting pictures lately and sharing lots of my bandwidth with the video games. So Ive been pushing it. My server actually shut itself down last night. I havent figured out what happened yet. I may have just had a large influx of usage at sometime last night. Its a Windows Corp. XP system. I almost installed Server 2003 on it not long ago, but there isnt enough if any gain on my network to waste the time. Im really getting frustrated with Windows though. Im still living with Corp XP on most of my computers, because I do not like any of the new operating systems since XP corp. edition. The goal is to keep everything free at this point so I have no plans to upgrade beyond what we normally pay for our regular services. It is what it is I guess. Pictures should be back up. Someone from Ratsun has offered to host some of my pictures so I sent him a folder. Hopefully this will ease up some of my usage. How are the Roadsters and Z?

Alright Tony, what is the L20E? Perhaps the post 79 L20 6? And how can you tell without measuring stuff? My plan is to just rebuild it and have it as a backup in case the engine under the hood currently is toast. We know that the engine in the car turns about 2" on a 1/2" drive ratchet on the crank pulley, but the cam is really rusty even though the valve cover has been on and sealed. Car has been sitting since about 1987 and hasnt been touched. Not going to be doing any radical stuff to the motor. I just want to get the car running. In the future Id like to do a VH45 or Y44 swap into the car. The L20 is a cool motor and should get the car around until I finish up some of my current projects. ------------------------- I cant find much info on the L20E after searching a little. This is a rear sump/mid sump motor. So the only options I know of that this motor was available in was the Laural or the Fairlady Z. However Im not uber well versed in Nissan models. When I think "E" I think L24e with small rod bolts. I checked and the bolts are the same as L28et which is the only other L series rod I have left around here not in a motor. I believe that is the larger bolt anyway.

Thanks for the heads up. Ill definitely be checking to see what bearings to order. I almost ordered them.

Hey guys I have a L20A from an old Fairlady. I believe its a 75+ as per the FI injector ports in the E30 head. I was having fun noting the differences between this motor and what we received in the states. L20A Pretty nasty when I first pulled the head. It turned over so I kept it. I gave it some penetrating oil so I could get it apart easier. The E30 head. I noted 4 key differences in the head as compared to a E31. The combustion chamber is ever so slightly different in shape. There is a KEY ridge between the 2 valve seats. Both the intake and exhaust valve seem to be smaller than the E31 and much smaller than the late style E88 head(I had a set of late E88 valve nearby). And finally the most distinctive feature is the smaller intake runners. Moving to the bottom end again. The Domed pistons stick out. They remind me of some of the Roadster pistons Ive seen in the past. Then noticed that when I was putting the pistons down the cylinders to leave them for the night I saw that the big rod end will not fit down the bores with the rod caps in place. I also noted the "M3" casting. Ive seen the M1 and M2 casting on the smaller L16 engines and such. It appears other than dealing with the piston set that I will also be in for a crank polish. All the bearings on the crank are past the babbitt and down almost to copper. That is to say little bits of copper are showing threw the bearing surface. It must have been low on oil or run on really dirty oil. Anyway guys, I thought I would share as most of the time you just dont see one of these things. With the domed pistons and combustion chamber design I think I can understand why the Japanese never went to the larger displacements. There wasnt much of a need.

The one that fits the stock non-vented rotor. They are the 2 different size pistons on each side.

Hey guys. I have ran into a strange situation. Ive been working on my 71 240Z. Its a 1/71 with all the first year stuff except the hand throttle. I went to upgrade the brakes last week and ran into a problem. It seems that my 71 has different hubs on it than my other S30's. I dont know when they changed, but the 1984 Toyota 4X4 pickup 4 piston calipers dont fit the 71. They have bolted onto the other cars I have worked on in the past with no issues. The caliper is a 1/4" off center on the 71 240Z hub. I pulled my 260Z hub off which has the same setup. The 260Z has all the same suspension on it as you would find on a 73 240z. That is to say its an early 260Z. The wheel mounting surface is in the same spot as the 71, but the rotor seat on the 71 is ~1/4" closer to the wheel mounting surface than the 260z. I didnt have a chance to check the caliper, but it appears the caliper is not the same as other S30's to match this rotor position. Once I changed out the hub on my 71 to the same that is on my 260Z the rotor and new toyota Calipers aligned correctly and the problem resolved. So the strut is the same. Just FYI for you guys that are looking at this swap.

Got a set locally through another Forum. Thanks guys Ray

I need a set of 260 or 280Z hubs for my 240Z. I damaged the ones for my 240Z getting the rotor off and I had to replace the calipers. So I have 260Z Calipers but they are not the same as my 70. They look the same except they are set out about 1/4" more. The 2 cars still use the same rotor. In California, need asap Sacramento for anyone local. Ray

Found a hood for free. I still need a grill and the tokico shocks Ray

Hey guys, I need a few things. I have a complete Tokico Illumina lowing set minus the front illumina shocks. So I am looking for the front 2 inserts for my 71 240Z. please advise on price. New in Box only. will pay to ship. I'm also looking for hood for the 240Z. locals please. I dont want to risk shipping on a hood, that and Id like to keep costs down. Looking for a good hood(no dents a no major rust) priced around $80. I could also use a straight grill for my 240Z. one would be worth around $35 to me. locals as well. I sold a hood for $40 6 months ago and gave a grill away so those prices should be adequate, though I do see them listed fr much more from time to time. I will add to what I need as I figure it out.

Ive had one on Sacramento Ca CL for $150. add shipping and its yours if you still need one. Ray