rayaapp2

I have a heavy duty L20e. Rods are 133mm with 9mm rod bolt shanks The piston is the odd ball. Pin Height is 39.9mm not 38.1mm! Piston is slightly domed. I have no way to accurately measure the CC's of dome. 8mm top ring land 2mm top ring 3.2mm 2nd ring land 2mm 2nd ring 2.9 third ring land 4mm oil ring I have no way to accurately weigh anything either. Saw some difference and thought I would post them up...

opps double post Anyone want to critique my build idea?

Ive gone through the carbs. They are in good working order. They dont leak from the typical wear areas. Im the local guy everyone calls to set these carbs up. My typical fix for the lean problem is to run a vacuum switch from manifold vacuum and use it to actuate a metered vacuum leak to the balance tube at idle/decel(high vacuum conditions) to lean out the mixture so you can pull the main jet down more and fatten up the mixture without fowling the plugs at idle.(An idea I borrowed from an old carb tinkerer) That still leaves you with a lean WOT condition though, which is what the main problem we're discussing here. Besides a small vacuum leak around the throttle shafts is minuscule at WOT. It would barely if at all affect the AFR. Ive played with this trick without the vacuum switch on the dyno and it didnt skew AFR at WOT dyno-jet pulls. It would have to be a very obvious vacuum leak to mess with the mixture as far as I can tell. The metered vacuum leaks I made most likely flowed more than a leaky throttle shaft. From what I can tell my numbers are typical of SU carbs. Anyway I do not plan on continuing to use the SU carbs. Mikuni Side drafts are on the list.

There is a Thermal vacuum valve aka "TVS", Thermal Vacuum Switch to us in California,(coolant temp actuated) AND an electrical Water Temp Switch ties that distributor to the battery.

As printed in the FSM Vacuum Advance [Distributor Degree/Distributor kPa(mmHg, inHg)] 0°/10.7 (80, 3.15) 4.5°/17.3(130,5.12) 4.5/21.3 (160,6.30) 15°/38.7 (290,11.42) Centrifugal advance[Distributor degree/distributor rpm] 0°/650 9°/1350 pulled from EL37 of the 1981 FSM Datsun 810 Maxima

my own quote: "Damper Oil only affects incoming acceleration of air not how far the slide will open or static flow rates... The spring tension on the top of the slider may affect a steady amount of air, but Im unsure as to what extent. Definitely not oil. I did have to change the oil from ATF to 20 weight to get the richer mixture on acceleration I wanted." I opted for thicker oil after finding my "transition" to be leaned out. Due to the thicker oil I have had less consumption of that oil as well. As far as power support goes, I can see that if your talking about the same thing as Tony. Potential is there, but in stock form at stock specs Im afraid its inadequate for even a stock L24. It requires work to support the theoretical flow of both the main jet and venturi. Thats why Tony said "This is not really true" in response to my post and not that my statement was outright wrong. It appears I posted this back in June when it was on the dyno. SU carb dyno tuning CLICKY I should have peeked at this first as it has all my SU carb tuning AFR Data. Have a look. And for Tony: NOPE LOL Im not that smart yet... I want to upgrade to the bigger headache, Mikunis! If these weren't so darn spendy I would have All out of my budget for the short term. Someday... when I can blow money at will... Until then a cheap used set of Mikuni's are all that's in the budget.

Engine is currently running and in the car. I like to plan things out before I undertake them, so until I have a good plan laid out it can stay running and sitting in my garage. It took me 5 years to plan out, 3 months to acquire parts, and about a week to build my rb25det 260z. The valves I installed didnt require notching of the cylinder bores. I reassembled everything myself. I did it about 8 months ago, but cannot remember much about what was measured. The bores were stock or close to stock, but there wasnt a need to notch the bores. These valves weren't the biggest ones available though. There is a larger set for L28 out there that is pretty common. I had a used set of those around to compare with. I also had a few sets from an E30, E31, late E88, P90(the big ones), and they were all different sizes. There was enough clearance when I measured it out. Now that I think about it, The valves may have been for the L26 N42 head? IDK just guessing. I bought them as new old stock and wish I could find part numbers. They are bigger than the large E88 stuff and smaller than the P90 ones. Ive seen so many L series engines that I cannot recall if they were already notched or not, I just know that I recall checking for fitment and clearance before I slapped it on. Id be happy with 150hp at the wheels, but Id like to see more. Id be ecstatic with 200+rwhp. Torque usually isnt an issue with the L6, but as much as I can possibly make of that stuff would be good too. Thus far the 240Z is the slowest car I own. Well except for the 2000 Roadster(It doesnt count because it isnt running). I enjoy a good freeway merging... as opposed to a good freeway smashing me to bits, amongst other things. Actually my goal is more of a: learn as much as I can and see how well I can apply it deal. I love my LC-1 on my 260Z, HOWEVER I have noticed it does not read correctly. Even after calibrating it, it always seems off a little bit, and not always the same amount Its usually within 1 afr(what ever increments that is) of the true reading. I have connected the car to other wide bands and seen a slight variation. On top of this I have spoken with others that run the Innovate wide bands and they all have the same problem. Its good for a basic tunes, but dont let it be your be all tell all for tuning, back up your data with a second calibrated wideband when tuning. my 2 cents on that.

I see what you mean by "not really true". Basically the fuel flow doesnt support the nozzle size. I currently run 5psi with a carter pump in front and a Hitachi knock off by the tank. I have a gauge and pressure regulator in the system as well. I might try upping the pressure on the system with what I have. I think I can get 8-10 psi out of the front pump. Might be an interesting experiment on the dyno. I dont have a sight glass for the carbs. In the past my best efforts were to kill the engine during a problem, pull the float bowl top off, and inspect the level. Thats actually why I have a fuel pump in the engine bay now and the stock mechanical one has been deleted. That was what I was getting at with my statement it just came out without precision. Ive been temped many times to just slap those suckers on my cars. A sizable amount of the zcar community would probably have me tared, feathered, and promptly hung for that one though. lol, Id love to be using a crank trigger, on a Ford EDIS system. Its not COP, but its close enough for me. Ive been setting up an EDIS system on my 68 2000 with Megasquirt so I would already have a good handle on how to build it. Its going slow on the 2000 and Im several years into messing with it. Its way on the back burner at this point. I do love being able to play with the timing on my 260Z as well. Im running an Apexi Power Fuel Controller and tinkering with timing maps on my netbook is just to easy with that setup! Advance the timing until you ping then pull back(I have a data-logger hooked up too). Its kinda like cheating with the netbook compared to the antiquated L24 in stock form. Ive totally missed out on the art of building and tuning a timing curve in this way though. I could not build a curve from a blank map as of now. Anyone can plug numbers into a map and most can watch for detonation. I ran into one of these 6 months ago and was highly tempted to purchase it just so I could try and teach myself. Some of these things are becoming lost arts and I love old cars so I make it a point to learn what I can. You know just for the fun of learning the basics. It was out of my price range at $150-$200 though Im sure thats what they can go for, I was just ultra broke at the time.

I think you may be correct about where they are reading the angles from. The page I pulled the specs from does not state angle of crank or distributor rotation for reference. It does state dwell angle just below so it may be safe to assume its distributor angles in which case double the spec and its close to what I ended up with, and that just makes more sense. As far as vacuum goes. It was definitely disconnected and connected when I reported the info. I used my hand vacuum pump with gauge to activate the vacuum advance for the last data. I suspect I have a weak ported vacuum signal. The port may be clogged with carbon or the vacuum signal at it is to weak. Look at the amount of vacuum I had to apply to get full movement out of the vacuum advance. I just cleaned the plate that the vacuum advances moves in the distributor, but I havent touched the diaphragm itself. It may be adjustable as described in johnc's quote. Im not sure whats going on there yet.

I suspect that something is up with the timing, but I have not been able to figure it out. Is there a timing curve map for this engine anywhere? At least that would give me something to go from. Thanks for all that info johnc! I had a chance to read through most of it. I had to rush off to work and Ill get through the last quote in a little bit. Im using a stock L24 distributor with a pertonix pointless ignition and a MSD blaster 2 coil on Accel 8mm wires, NGK split fire BPR6EY (now stock heat range) plugs @ .036". The Static Timing is set at 10° BTDC @ 750rpm(timed for "C" cam not stock "A" @ 17° @ 650rpm). Specs for my L24 D606-52 distributor advance are Mechanical starts 450rpms ends 1000 rpms with a total of 6° Vacuum starts 100mm Hg ends 245mm Hg with a total of 5.5° Degrees read off Crank Here is what Im seeing with NO LOAD: Mechanic Idle @ 750rpm 10° 1350 still 10° 1500 15° 1700 20° 2000 25° 2300 30° 2600 35° above that it stays around 35° but gets occasional flux above with Vac adv on Idle 10° 1400 15° 1700 20° 2000 25° 2300 30° 2500 35° Vacuum ONLY at idle 250mm Hg add 5° 400mm Hg add another 5° This is AFTER I flipped the rotor shaft! This is not what I was seeing before. Im getting more advance and higher up in the RPM range. Something else I forgot to mention. The timing chain is on its last leg. The cam gear is on notch #3, but is timed correctly there. If only I had a degree wheel(I have a dial gauge) and a cam card I could set that info in stone. Degree wheel is on my wish list for christmas! I mean how else am I going to setup a custom ground cam right? I have a MSD 6A laying around that I may try eventually, but Im not trying to compound anything just yet. I believe I connect the Pertonix unit up just like points no like electronic pickup style to the MSD unit. I should be able to open the gap up on the plugs after installing the MSD.

Thats basically the limit of the needle and main jet as that is what limits AFR at WOT. My guess is that the 240Z SU's were designed for a smaller engine and the AFR problems are why Nissan came out with the flat top carbs with an isolated idle circuit and a larger venturi in latter cars.

try not to poke fun of the bungee tied BMW battery. This car doesnt really get driven ever. Im building this L24 out of my 71 240z. Its the original L24 and its in pretty good shape. Id like to see what I can do to pull more power out of it. It just lacks mid range and top end. Id be happy just to get some mid range at this point. So far here is what I have: E31 head with stock ports, 2 cracks in the combustion chambers have been repaired. I had the machine shop also replace the valve guides and seats. While I had the seats out I went with the slightly bigger new L28 N42 head valves. The seats and guides are now up to current oil specification not the old stuff that needs the additives(not like anyone uses the additives or even notices excessive wear without it in these). I used Schneider valve springs with those new seats. Other than that its pretty much a stock E31 head. The Cam is currently a "C" cam with external oil bar. I used the matching lash pads and checked the wipe pattern. I suspect the cam lobs are worn down, but I dont have cam card to verify at this point if Im missing any meat from the lobes. There just isnt any mid or top end power. My butt says the engine runs out of poop around 2500 rpms. But my butt isnt a dyno so ? I have another "A" cam, but I think that its time for a re-grind and to stop messing around with old used cams for a good build. I will probably call a re-grind company as certain members have said time and time again and see what the cam engineer says. I have done a little research, but Im not set yet. These guys look promising: Web Cam Inc. 1815 Massachusetts Avenue Riverside, CA 92507-2616 USA webcamshafts.com. I have been looking at their 91 and 94a cams. They regrind or sell CWC that is nitride hardened. I have a few old "japan" cores so Im not going new. But maybe you guys know of them and can tell me what the deal is with them verses others? I used a header that a Datsun Dealer installed. It has long small tubes that dump into 2 2" collectors about midway down the stock "A" 4spd transmission that I now have routed to a MSA twice pipes system. Its one of the longest headers Ive seen and the originally the secondaries "Y" together at the inlet to the original pre-muffler in the center of the car. So its dual exhaust as of now. I suspect that placing a small tube somewhere in between the 2 exhausts will help with scavenging, but I have no clue where to do it without a dyno a lot of cutting and welding to get it right... not to mention tube size options. As far as the MSA exhaust parts, Id take a guess that the pipes are to big for my poor little L24 and that I should probably be a little worried about reversion currently. They are better than the plugged up stock exhaust that was still on there though. The induction system is currently stock SU carbs. My plan is to run a set of Mikuni carbs on a Mikuni manifold. Im still debating on 40s vs 44s. If I had a flow bench the guess work would have been eliminated as I know how to do all the math to figure out carb size for any engine. I could most definitely use any help here. Im guessing that 40s would be more than enough for a streetable L24, but I have read multiple times that people prefer 44's. Im half tempted to use a dial-a-jet on the stock SU's, but the main jet and needle are extremely limited for any big numbers as it would always be ultra lean at WOT. Im using a pertronix ignition unit currently. Im using NGK split fire plugs 1 step colder than stock. Nothing special. I started playing with the mechanical advance on the stock L24 distributor. This is new ground for me and I dont fully understand the basics of timing here. The stock timing curve on this engine just seems inadequate for the high reving "L-Gata"(got this fixed!). So I pulled the whole assembly apart just to see what was going on in there and try to understand how it works together. I do know how the weights, springs, and assembly work in theory(thats pretty basic). I noticed that the shaft that the rotor sits on moved very little. I pulled it off and saw that there are 2 different springs in there on the weights. The upper shaft(one with the rotor) has slots that the weights fit into as detents. The way it was in there before did not allow a lot of movement. So I put it back on 180 off and gained a little more movement. It looks like if I wanted to get crazy with it I could dremel those detent notches out to get more advance(obviously the springs would have to match this change right?). Whats the deal with the 2 different springs and detent notches? I mean why dynamic and how does that affect the timing curve. The sbc's Ive played with usually have the same springs on both weights. Where can I go to figure out how to choose advancing springs? I mean how can I determine how much advance I want for the cam/engine combo? There's that and there is total mechanical advance that is being limited by the the detent slots on the upper "rotor" shaft that I need to figure out. OR should I be looking for a distributor that is already capable of more total mechanical advance. I actually read a couple of posts already on hybridz and zcar about L24's and timing advance. Unfortunately there was nothing on the basics. The head gasket is a HKS MLS 1mm gasket. I have an 81 turbo oil cooler that I plan on mounting to the engine as well. My plans for the bottom end are as such: I believe the valves need to be unshrouded in the current setup. I was thinking 85-86mm bore would help that. How will the extra large bore affect the rest of the bottom end. I know there is an optimal stroke:bore, but I have no clue how to figure that out. Is there a point in which it would be best to go with the L26/L28 crank and rods to keep a well balanced engine. Id like to up the compression to 9.5:1 at least! If I could get fueling dialed in I wouldnt mind going a little bit higher. My goal is to not use anything higher than 91 octane fuel though. After seeing what stock SU's on the L24 preform I know why high compression is a BIG no-no with these L-series. WOT optimally in my opinion should be close to 12.5:1 afr NOT 16.8:1 with idle sitting at 10:1 afr(found my data: ASM test 15mph/50% load @ 15.43:1, 25mph/25% load @ 16.07:1, and idle @ 11.08:1 was the best I could get it. My starting numbers were closer to 18:1 at 25% load with driveway tune). But thats just my limited experience so far with my L24. While Im working on the bottom end Ill make sure to replace the bearings and check all the journals. I will be looking around for a set of the rods with bigger rod bolts. Ive had at least 3 L series 6 cylinders lose rods and have it been related to the rod bolts. Lesson learned. Buy NEW rod bolts and use the big ones. I have an 81 turbo oil pump to work with as well. I have spoke with JeffP about that in the past. I have no plans for the oil pan. I have 2 good machinists in Sacramento to choose from. Im going to have the rotating assembly balanced out. I know thats a big list with lots of questions. Hopefully its something you guys can properly critique me on at least. I have fired these questions off to others via email as well. Thanks guys and I look forward to reading your input.

Pictures would be awesome! . I was almost certain that was what that notch was for. See my MSA twice pipe install. The 432 was the only thing I knew of that had twice pipes from the get-go. ---------- Im not sure Ill end up using these any time soon, but they are worth holding on to. The header I have on the car now has much longer primaries. Unfortunately the header I have on there now is also much thinner material and I already had to patch a small hole.

Very clean, very expensive. I have a good idea of what you got into that car. I know what it costs to ship a car over there, and Ive done the RB swap. I probably have close to what youve invested in my car total as you do so far(Mine only looks that good under the car and hood!). Your car looks superb!

Note the collector. 3 bolt flange but looks like OE. Its bigger than the L24 and even the L28. I want to try and find the flange at least if not a set of nice long secondaries. Who made this thing? Its pretty well constructed. Its either for a 280z or its a Off road only product(no air injection). It has a nice THICK flange and the tubes are pretty hefty as well. Its one of the heavy sets of headers Ive had my hands on. I have seen one other header just like this one. It was on a 75 280Z and the owner said it was Datsun Comp, but that could be non-sense.

Is it the same passage that Nissan plugged on the LD28 in the block itself?

Hey guys, Did you crack the hard line at the turbo? If you did then I wouldnt expect much oil at all to come out. How many miles are on that thing? Either way its a lot or very little. My guess IF you are cracking the line from where I think your cracking it is that the FIXED ORIFICE in the banjo fitting has clogged with carbon or slug and has restricted what little flow was already there(DO NOT BORE HOLE UNLESS YOU FEEL AMPLY QUALIFIED). Hell it could be plugged at the oil pressure switch end, but not likely. Pull the banjo fitting off and inspect the line from the inside. You will see that its restricted to limit the amount of oil flow. It doesnt take much to clog that thing up at all. If you have a slug motor or a motor that has seen high temps its pretty easy to clog up the oil passages there. MY guess is that your engine has oil pressure. You can carefully clean the orifice, but as I said dont bore it out. The system was designed for what 60,000 miles within a limited number of years that it far surpassed. If its clogged its time to go through it. Just part of Regular maintenance that was probably never preformed THOUGH Ive seen these things go for far longer than the recommended service interval. Who services a ZX anyway right? IF your worried I can tell you how to make a mess, but KNOW you have some oil flow through the system without a gauge. Pull the valve cover off, carefully crimp both the PCV and valve cover breathers without breaking them(they may break as they are probably old brittle rubber), and turn the engine on and let it idle. Oil should sling everywhere, but you will see oil flow from the cam. IF oil doesnt sling everywhere you have an oil flow problem. There may be other ways, but thats what comes to mind first for me. IF your banjo is clogged it may be time for some component R&R(who knows what else is plugged in the system). Most likely its just the stuff around the turbo(the major heat source), but it can break loose and float around in the system(personal experience here with an L-series). Somehow I missed the part about the sending unit being pulled and still no oil. IF you pulled the oil pressure sender and there is still no oil flowing out of there then you may have to pull the engine apart and check the oil passages to and from the oil pickup, oil filter, and oil pump. JUST AS Josh817 describes with the riffle brush. Another question is if you pulled the pan and pump then you must have drained the oil correct? Why didnt you put a $5 filter on with some new oil? You could have your reasons but that seems silly to me. Ray A.

I have a 71 240Z. L24, stock SU's, Hurricane Header(old brand installed by Downtown Datsun in San Jose when it was new)6-2-1 style, E31 head with "C" cam, and until now the original exhaust system. Ive noticed that the car had no mid-range and top-end power with the stock exhaust. I have gone through everything else so the exhaust is the only thing left. My guess is that a 39 year old exhaust system should not STILL be quiet even though it is. I ran across a MSA Twice pipes kit from Apexi944 here on Hybridz. So I just got the MSA system on the car. It only took me approx 6 hours to install the twice pipes. It took me about 2 hours alone to arrange the glass packs on the back. I have 2 collectors on the header that goes into a long Y pipe to the stock pre-muffler in the center of the car, so I had to convert the Y pipe into 2 straight pipes that couple to the MSA twice pipes. This conversion to dual exhaust added several hours to my time as well(2.5 hours). Since the Twice pipes had been installed before there was some prep time involved as well. It took me about 40 minutes to cut and clean up the old welds. Im a fabricator, but even so this install fell under DIFFICULT because I went dual exhaust. I would rate this system as just HARD if it bolts to the MSA header. The MSA twice pipes kit is very basic. It was obviously assembled with cost in mind. The mandrel bent tubing is always a plus in my world(cutting and re-welding made easy). The 2 "S" pipes are identical. This is probably the most irritating part of this kit as far as installation goes. More than likely this exhaust is suppose to be executed in a fashion that lays the glass packs horizontal not vertical. I base this hypothesis on the chrome tip orientation. I cannot imagine placing those tips so low so that it all hangs out the bottom of the rear cowl and the empty exhaust hole would not be ascetically pleasing either. It just doesnt fit correctly with the car. In my personal opinion the tips need to run vertical and sit in the exhaust slit cut into the rear cowl. So that is what I did. I installed the tips vertical. I need to cut the chrome tips off and re-orientate them now which isnt done and there-fore not included in the above install time. Because I put them vertical the provided mounts on the glass pack assembly would not work. I had to use U-clamps on both sides to mount them where the stock muffler mounts. Once I was able to install the tips vertical I moved on to the S-pipes and these pipes have 2 90° bends and are pretty much identical in length. Because of the length issue I had make some cuts. I shortened the pipe going into the top glasspack by 3". That same pipe ended up being the left pipe. The other pipe was able to be laid on the right side and ran to the bottom glass pack. There really needed to be about 6 more inches on the bottom pipe or 8.5" on the top pipe that would have allowed one of those pipes to run on the other side of the differential as planned out by Nissan for the 432 models exhaust. The notch is visible for this provision in the front differential cross member. The 90° bends are barley adequate in fact extra play in the slip fit joints allows just enough movement to make up for lack in angling, but also provides the end user with a leaky exhaust system without a welder as well as giving the installer a headache because the pipe wants to move on you while your hanging and welding on it. More sophisticated bends are required for the curvature of the transmission tunnel and rear differential as well as being able to take advantage of the stock exhaust hanger system! If I had the MSA header on I would have crossed my fingers hoping it would all butt up properly. The next set of pipes are straight equal length. After that you have 2 pipes welded side by side with something like a 30° bend in them in the same direction that go into a 2.5" collector. I cut the collector off and separated the 2 pipes for my header. I was able to but the 2 pipes up to the old Y pipe and cut them to match. EDIT: I have been driving the car for a day now. The exhaust is notably louder than what was on there. Verging to loud for my taste. Good thing the car isnt a daily driver. If you dont like decel back-fire sounds I would recommend leaving the AB valve and other anti-backfiring devices installed and be sure they are in working order. The stock radio is still audible in the background. For $150 plus shipping for this kit NEW I cannot complain that much. Its probably worth that in materials with those bends. It scores high with the total costs, but as everyone else has stated before its a pain the arse to install. Ideally I would use Chris M.'s exhaust Click here for full thread. Well almost ideal, I would have routed the right side to the bottom and the left side to the top in an attempt to get the pipes as equal length as possible. I do not know what Chris spent on his exhaust, only that it has taken him 2 or 3 times to get the sound correct.

I paid $150 for my car(8/74 early style 260z) and $1700 for a complete RB25det drive-train and I still have +$11,000 in parts alone(I have a log book). I did all the work myself. I believe I have about 65 hours into the swap(could easily be another $5000 for those hours as it was almost exclusively specialized fab and wiring). Ive got a good running/driving car. I probably couldnt sell it for $15,000, but I still wouldn't sell it for even $30,000.

installing the Greddy or Freddy knock off intakes eliminates the need for the water bleed. The stock manifold brings the water passages up above the fill neck on the radiator leaving the air bubble that needs to be purged. The GReddy and knock-offs drop the water passages below the filler neck especially when installed into a Z like yours. When I did mine I did have to turn the heater on to purge the air past the heater control valve under the dash, but if that is all bypassed you would not have that issue. I would just cap off both heater lines in this case. Same reasons as gmac708 described in his answer. As far as the collapsed lower hose goes, I can only speculate that you have an issue with your radiator cap. As your engine heats up the coolant the coolant expands and act as hydrolic pressure on the cap until it overflows the expanded coolant, but only to a point. The cap is designed to use the vacuum that forms as the coolant cools off and contracts to suck in coolant from the over flow bottle. You may say hey I dont have a coolant bottle, but you do have a cap that is designed for one unless your running one of the original caps that came on the Datsun somehow. So the secondary valve in the radiator cap isnt working as designed and is holding vacuum instead of releasing(just seems like the wrong word) it. In your case it should be sucking air to fill the void as the coolant cools and contracts, but its not. I doubt it has anything to do with water pump and a clog. The OE pump wont collapse a good hose. It will sooner cavitate. You have not accurately enough described your situation. Why do you suspect a no flow situation? Are you having an over heating problem? What kind of radiator are you running? When you tested flow on the upper radiator hose was the engine fully warmed up? Was it cold? How are you testing for flow exactly? With the hose taken off cold? an easy diy flow test can be done by removing the radiator cap, warming the engine until operating temp, hold the revs up to 1500-2000, and you should see the coolant get turbulent. For the collapsed hose was it as I described warmed up then cooled down. "When I got to the car today" thinking it was cold when you got to it correct? BTW there is a GReddy intake manifold write up here on HybridZ with pictures. I used it to install my intake. Was lacking in a few areas, but will do the trick for what you need. Use the "SEARCH" feature to find it.

As stock with the exception of a catch can on the turbo inlet side. I was going to put one on the other side, but havent done that yet. BTW new PCV valve and the fixed orifice is still installed on the intake side. This morning I checked the intake manifold side and there was some oil in the hose. So I disconnected the hose from the intake and ran an air filter on both sides just to eliminate the possibility that its sucking oil through there. I went for a drive and could still smell oil on decel. Ill have to drive it farther to see if that stops.

Ive been eating about a quart of oil every 3500 miles or so. I can smell it burning on decel in gear. Im almost sure its the valve stem seals. I have noticed that different oils will burn more or less than a quart during that period. Redline 5W30 lasts the longest. Royal Purple burns the fastest. Im trying Castrol full synthetic 5W30 right now. I know that the synthetic stuff tends to get consumed more than the conventional stuff. There are engines out there that are suppose to burn the oil (ie Porsche<manufacture says 2 quarts every 5000 miles> and others) and that I may not be able to prevent this, but it seams a little excessive and the smell on decel bothers me a bit. I would venture a guess that it burns enough that if there was a CAT still on the engine I would be having an issue cleaning up the HCs which Japanese emissions would have a problem with so it cant be normal. I have good compression across the board and I would think a cold test would show a problem when dry and wet tested which I do not see a change in the initial gauge needle jump. Its pretty consistent so Im leaning away from bad oil rings. The plugs show tan from the oil, but its not really obviously directional. I can only attribute this to the combustion chamber design getting the swirl evenly around the plugs and the fact that Ive pulled the plugs a few times which could adjust their position skewing my results and therefore diagnosis. The plugs are evenly tanned, but do have slightly darker spots in areas so that may point to intake valve stem seals. Also when idling after warmed up and driven for a period of time I get a light miss in the exhaust that is random. Its alot like the old fuel injected L series that end up with a lean miss-fire at idle. I wish I had an O-scope that could see the ignition system so I could pin-point the cylinder/cylinders that are missing. I have a feeling the oil consumption and miss are very related. Im not looking forward to the head job that will fix those valve stem seals if that is the problem. It would be a good chance to go with one of the nicer metal head gaskets though. IF anyone can think of something I may have missed in my diagnosis please speak up and set me straight.

After checking with Ron at Venus and looking at the engines available and pricing them out I decided to pass. I was living in Sacramento 2 years ago when I purchased my RB25. I ended up buying everything I needed from the donor through JhotImports out of Denton Tx. for much less than Venus Auto. I recieved engine, un-cut harness, ECU, all sensors, all intercooler piping with intercooler, Fuel pump w/sender, partial engine bay harness for alt etc, driveshaft, correct transmission, and full intake including filter box. The engine had obviously been well transported and stored in a dry place(not all rusty/oxidized) and was not covered in armor-all/tire shine. This LIST should be copied and added to as a sticky here in this forum. NicoClub "where did you get yours?" 4 pages of good responses. There was one here on Hybridz, but I cannot find it either. I paid $1673 for the engine set and ~$350 for shipping to a residential California address. I have had nothing but GREAT customer service from Jhot. Every once in a while they can be hard to reach via phone for a day, but they have always returned my calls and gone the EXTRA mile to keep me happy. Unfortunately they do not always have RB engines and seam to be struggling to make ends meet lately. Ive noticed they closed they're SC shop and cut back their hours operation to appointment only "no walk ins". Venus was $2100 with RB20 trans and $2500 with correct trans 2 years ago. Ron can be a great guy if you catch him on the right day!

likewise here with the sidewayz VH45 TB... RS Speed inspired the idea though in all fairness. It took about 45 minutes to make a cable mount at the correct angle. Its also pretty clean looking this way.

If you do that you may end up with a slightly shorter TB which will help drastically with where that pipe and coupler ends up. Just make sure you get a good TB as I have not heard good things about the cheap China Knock-Offs.