rayaapp2

That's kinda weird. Early 510 no way. Maybe the 80's 510? I have a 510 and have seen many early 510 from 68-73 and not seen this radiator. If it came out of the early one then it was a swap and I have heard of putting the NAPZ in the 510, but the radiator would be a hard fit. So my guess is it was a later style 510 or a swap. The radiator I have looks Identical to yours and after digging through books of replacement radiators its the only one I found that matches. You will run across even less 510s from the 80s than you will 200sx though...

A Video! Well thats funny, I just sat down and uploaded a quick video with my dieing camera and was going to post this when I read that... anyway lets try this yes those are jumper cables and I was charging another battery to jump my Roadster...

Car started and moved under its own power today. I checked my wiring and it isnt a problem, Ive double checked all the connections. The car still runs a little to rich and I havent been able to figure it out yet. I suspect a vacuum leak or something stupid. The car is wicked fast. Snap your neck back fast. I didnt expect it to be that quick. I have some part numbers to add later. I am using the 200sx radiator mentioned in another post. radiator - 82-83 200sx m/t 2.2L NAPZ Radiator hoses ... will post em later. ALMOST forgot, I have an interesting noise going on with the transmission. If your idling everything is good and there is no noise. Rev it up in neutral and still no problem. Push the clutch in, in any gear or neutral and there is a weird noise. Its like the sound you get when you grind gears without the clutch only a lot softer. If you put the transmission in gear and let the clutch out the noise goes away. So it only happens when the clutch is depressed. My first guess was throw out bearing, but that is definitely wrong as it would be the opposite. My guess is that the friction disc has a problem as it is free spinning at this time.

Hoses that I used. The closest I found were as follows: Goodyear hoses http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GOO&MfrPartNumber=S62225 UPPER - 62225 http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GOO&MfrPartNumber=XL62300 LOWER - 62300 As per the next post yes the holes need to be elongated to mount the radiator. I flattened the hanging flanges and rebent them in a different spot to get them to hang just right as well. I will have some pics of my own shortly.

82-83 200sx NAPZ 2.2L M/T I just pulled one from a car to verify. Looks like it may work for a stock RB swapper, but not for modified RBers. This should work to get me going until I I get a wild hair. The only thing you forgot to post was the part numbers for the radiator hoses you used. Now I have to figure that out on my own... The radiator places can get them the are a day out here in Sacto, but they are 200bucks plus... money wiser spent on a custom radiator that better suits any future needs.

I briefly started the RB to make sure everything is functioning. I had 1 vacuum leak on the manifold I had forgot about at this time. I started the engine and it stumbled until I gave it a little throttle. So I found the vacuum leak and plugged it with the engine running. Then the engine started to run rich... So at that point I turned the engine off and I made sure I had not connected the start signal wire to the wrong source. It was correct. I havent been able to get much farther, but I suspect the engine starting with a vacuum leak throws the A/F ratio and I just need to restart the engine with no vacuum leak... Otherwise I have a serious problem to track down to make sure I can fix soon. UPDATE on other questions 1. IF I choose to use the cable drive in the other link my stock cable looks to short...Anyone get this to work and have some instruction? Like run it over the top or what? The original cable is plenty long to reach, simply run it over the top of the transmission and down to the drive. 2. Any US side radiator help? Mike Rowe has sourced Radiators from China to Australia... It seems to me that we should be able to source a radiator here. Summit or Jegs A few answers, but Im still looking. Im trying to find a $100 or less radiator as a solution. I believe that a 16X24 double pass aluminum radiator will do the trick. Ive been digging trough radiator applications and so far only one has come close. 96 Nissan Pickup. Its single pass and has a built in trans cooler as well. So Im thinking its cooling potential is below what I will need esp in a hard run. 3. I still cannot source a friction disc for the clutch. any help? 4. Anyone else use the "cheap" 5usd mounts with Rick Wongs adapters? I got the engine in and I cant get those mounts straight. The offset is wrong. They arent totally straight and Im a little OCD about such things so its bugging me though I know those are generic mounts and it wont REALLY matter as long as the engine is straight in there. anyone? NOTE: Rick Wong says that he will make more mounts if ppl still want them. So if you want a set of these mounts I would contact Rick Wong about getting on a list. These mounts are worth the $$$. Very nice quality. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98448&highlight=infinity

Well almost... with the exception of a radiator... and the hydraulic clutch is dry still, but it starts and runs! I even finished the exhaust up! Please excuse my mess it became late and I was sucked deep into it and started to neglect my work space.

I have the hood back on and a ton of pictures to post. I started to fab up the transmission cross member. Its a little harder than it looks. Ive fabbed as a living before to so this is nothing new to me. I think I may have to make a run out to the steel yard to get what I need to build the member. Im still playin chase the wire loom around as well. I ran out of time and had to step away from the wire harness for a few days and then continued and as usual I marked everything and still somehow messed it up. The start signal is definately powered up while the car is in the run position. And the fuel pump signal isnt working so I need to trace the wires back out and see where I rushed it and make sure I made the corrections and note them on my writeup. I paid 225USD for my Hybrid Driveshaft and picked it up yesterday. They did a great job. Ray

Anyone else use the "cheap" 5usd mounts with Rick Wongs adapters? I got the engine in and I cant get those mounts straight. The offset is wrong. They arent totally straight and Im a little OCD about such things so its bugging me though I know those are generic mounts and it wont REALLY matter as long as the engine is straight in there. Thanks

Nismo of Seattle and Courtesy of Texas both out of stock. Nismo says they are checking with a supplier in Japan, but currently the pans are no longer being produced by Nissan. They have a waiting list, but no promises on a availability. Erics Performance on eba has 1 pan and sump left... They charge ALOT more than Nismo parts. Ray

I dropped both the S30 drive line and the R33 drive line off at a local shop. Drive Line Service of Sacramento. They quoted me out at half the cost that Ive seen around here and Nicoclub.com. That quote included machining the R33 slip yoke to accept a serviceable U-joint and replacing both U-joints with a more standard serviceable Spicer part, and obviously putting it together and having it balanced out. Anyone in the area that is doing this swap could probably use that info. Ray

Rick Wong / Infinity Machining Motor Mount Thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98448&highlight=rick+wong Mounts are for use with 1986-87 Toyota Supra Turbo isolators, but apparently these can be supplemented with the ones in this thread which are about 3/8" shorter. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103170 I just purchased a set of these shorter mounts and noticed that they have a 1/2" shank for bolt studs. So the holes on the S30 cross member will have to be resized for these mounts. I will also have to make another run to the hardware store for some nylock nuts and washers to match these mounts. I bought a 36" Spectre universal throttle cable today and installed a L bracket using the 2 holes on the bulk head that use to be for the lever linkage. Pics will be on my website shortly. I also had to purchase a 3USD kit with the cable stop cylinders for the TB side of the cable. I ended up drilling the cable hole on the cylinder out to fit the universal cable and then since the cylinder was 3/8" SAE I had to ream out the TB so the cylinder would squeeze in there properly, but it all works great now and 36" is the perfect length as I thought I would need at least 40"... I will be getting back to my wiring tomorrow I believe. I have done almost everything I can with the parts I have. I still need the mounts to arrive and then I can start fabbing up the cross member for the transmission, and I can measure the driveline length. Once thats all squared away I can finally get a radiator in and the proper hoses and then the intercooler piping can be routed. The NPR intercooler I have makes the most sense to use as it fits the best campared to the others. Some progress: LARGE RAW PICS http://www.datsunmotorsports.selfip.com/Ray%27s%20new%20Pictures%2007-08/DATSUNS/My%20260z/9-74/My%20RB25DET/P1000728.JPG http://www.datsunmotorsports.selfip.com/Ray%27s%20new%20Pictures%2007-08/DATSUNS/My%20260z/9-74/My%20RB25DET/P1000726.JPG http://www.datsunmotorsports.selfip.com/Ray%27s%20new%20Pictures%2007-08/DATSUNS/My%20260z/9-74/My%20RB25DET/P1000724.JPG

ummm. They were the bumpers that came on the car from the factory, the production date is 9/74 so technically its a late car with early bumpers... but Ive owned a 3/74 that had the early bumpers as well. My only explanation for the production date was the fact that they had multiple factories pumping these babies out and mine happened to come from a factory that was putting cars together with the parts they still had around before they moved on to the next production. Im only guessing of course, but its the only logical reason for the bumpers. Im the Second owner of the car. The first owner replaced the engine and I actually have all the paperwork for all the repairs made since 1976 including 5 of the last smog certificates... I dont think one general rule for production dates will fly for this one. I say "were" because both bumpers are now sitting in a pile of bumpers in my back yard.

Hello all, I bought my car along time ago with this swap in mind. Ive finally gotten around to it. So Im getting hip deep in this thing literally.. lol I own my own web site / server at home. So I have a link for ya'll Here is my 260Z project. http://www.datsunmotorsports.webs.com/1974%20260z.htm There are currently 4 pages as of this thread starting. There will be more shortly. I have posted in a few other threads already with info and questions. Some things I would like to add. 260Z cars require that you CUT the transmission mount flanges off the car before you shove that huge transmission in there. Otherwise you WILL damage the reverse switch... opps... possibly the VSS too if you care to keep it. I also noted the VSS is mounted on the passenger side. My Question: IF I choose to use the cable drive in the other link my stock cable looks to short...Anyone get this to work and have some instruction? Like run it over the top or what? Any US side radiator help? Mike Rowe has sourced Radiators from China to Australia... It seems to me that we should be able to source a radiator here. Summit or Jegs Ill add more later. ALSO I wanted to note that JHOT rocks. I had some problems with the shipping company and was prepping up to take on their claims department as I documented everything. They are sending me the replacements for the broken parts and taking care of the claim... AND THEY WERE NOT EXPENSIVE!!!! Here is a link of sellers and ratings http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=115184 I will be posting back and putting up all the links I used to do this... all but Chris Rummels sticky as that is right up top where it belongs. I ordered the LAST set of Rick Wongs engine brackets today as well. I ordered those really cheap engine anchors as well to try them... I think it cost me like 10bucks for them so no big loss. I also noted that these anchors that I will get a link for later require you to drill the cross member out to make them fit in the bolt hole. I will have more info obviously when my mounts arrive. I replaced the timing belt and the main tensioner. Thanks to Nismo of Seattle I replaced the oil pan and pickup thanks to Erics Performance... though it was a little spendy I still need a clutch... I am having problems sourcing a OE one. I have a few intercoolers around my garage... Im not set on any of them. - NPR intercooler - R33 the one that matches the engine - 88 Toyota Supra Turbo Intercooler... smaller size piping so might just be out of the question. - Mishimoto Intercooler with 2.5" inlet outlet... I will probably pass. Derick at Lethal MotorSports has or can get RB parts as well. He will have excellent pricing for the most part. I haven't made any purchases through them yet, but they come highly recommended by Jhot and I liked his prices. I have both the OE R33 drivelines and a few OE 260/240 Z drivelines and will be taking them to a local driveshaft shop. I have quotes from 2 places so far. The most expensive one is 250 bucks and that is worst case scenario with busted u-joints... and mine are good for sure. I will be reporting back with cost/time/quality when I choose a place. That should help out anyone local to Sacto. I will be adding a TON of info to this post. Thanks for any additions Ray

http://www.datsunmotorsports.selfip.com/Ray%27s%20new%20Pictures%2007-08/DATSUNS/My%20260z/9-74/My%20RB25DET/rb25diagram.jpg Right click and save This is a 1.3MB pic of the harness. This is most likely where Chris got his circuit numbers from as they correspond. Its the best diagram I ran across. maybe it will help someone.

Ive downloaded the whole FSM about 148MB worth. I have a 94 RB25DET. It appears the second relay is for the ignitor pack. So the circuit for that is gone on my harness. Its directly controlled through the computer. So the thick red wire is deleted as it delivers power to the ignitor pack. I think that having a diagram in this thread would be a good idea for anyone else that comes across this problem. I wrote one up on a spare piece of paper as I took mine apart. I have a copy of the orginal schematic, but its in Japanese.

I am having problems following the harness install. Everything is the same cept for a few little things. I dont have 2 large white connectors only one and I only have 1 relay on the relay pack. The harness is stock and there are no cuts. Ive pulled out said wires from the harness and traced them back. I have wire diagrams from two sources that are corresponding but they are obviously wiring for dummies diagrams with no color or wire sizes, much less connector numbers and such. So After getting through all the wires and tracing them I came up with a missing wire and relay. The thick red wire is missing from my harness. If I had to guess it goes to that second relay. The only vital piece of info I left out is that my engine and harness are from a 94 R33 and its a S2 motor without the ignitor pack. Anyone have a clue what I need to change. Im searching for a proper harness diagram in the mean time to try and sort out my problems. I plan on doing a write up myself when Im done with the swap. Then S2 owners can install. Ray

As far as the ignitor chip goes GP Sorensen part number EL102 Wells part DR100 I have no idea what cars came with 3 wire tachs. My 71 has one and my 74 has one. My cars were already 30 years old by the time I got them so who knows if they were stock. Ray

using a STOCK S30 tach. I havent tried this yet, but being that I have been pretty successfully adapting these things to alot of different engines this should work. Find yourself one of those GM HEI modules. The ignitor unit as it is often called. The particular unit I use is the 4 pin one. Im sure the others could be used but I dont have the pinouts for them. W - Ground G - Input from MF01 thin yellow/blue stripe that goes to pin 7 on the ecu C - To Tach B - Ignition/Power Source B+ Before you go connecting this maybe someone with more electrical experience will chime in and help out. Also Note thatthis will work for the 3 wire tachs and those with 4 wires(the one with the loop) will have to figure this out on there own.

There is a 6 pin plug that lives on the engine side of the harness just past the bulkhead. It is on the big loom about 10" from the bulkhead rubber isolator. What was it for? Is it just going to remain unplugged? I really need to get a detailed wire schematic to do this right. Here is a pic. Its to the right of the pic in the center just hanging out. Mine also has a green piece of tape on either side.

There are several threads about this subject. The main one with part numbers escapes me at the moment, but it NEEDS to be a STICKY or something. I had a question about pin 53 on my S2 wire harness, but I missed a small portion of the writup by Chris Rummel that says its for the speed cutoff. Anyway thats it. Thanks

I cant find it anymore. Here is a link to NicoClub.com about engine set/clip sellers. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=115184 Maybe a Mod will know of the one here and make it a sticky one day but the Nicoclub one is more extensive. It also needs to be made a sticky.

Anyone know what the differences are? Besides the obvious that one goes over the valve cover and the other has like the 6 individual throttle bodys or something weird. I should be receiving my RB25DET within the next week or so. Its paid for and should leave on Tue the 18th. I ended up breaking my rules and purchasing from Jhot. They were really inexpensive so it was worth the gamble. I will find out for sure when I get the engine. My reason for the question is that I would like to convert the stock manifold over to the rb26dett style intake manifold. It appears there are several options. Of which the most popular is to use the Greddy or Greddy knockoff manifolds with the single throttle body. Alot of people use that second option. Alot of the manifolds that are obvious knock offs have warnings saying they will require professional installation. Im thinking that using the stock RB26det manifold would be better as it changes the amount of turns in my intercooler piping. That is if I can find one. Has anyone bolted one those bad boys up to the 25? Another stupid question by yours truely

Looks like the same exact one I purchased. I mounted it as far forward as I could. I eliminated the extra bends in the piping this way. I know that theoretically you want the intercooler close to the radiator in this situation. You will end up with weird eddy currents in between the two and an overheating issue. I havent tested a solution yet, but Im going to put an electric fan in between the two on the front of the radiator and use directed fins to guide the incoming air through the Intercooler and directly into the radiator area. Hopefully this prevents the air from stalling behind the intercooler. I will find out when I start running. I figure its worth a try to escape the extra bends in the piping.