rayaapp2

So we are talking all RB25DET engines from the GTS cars then, just for clarification? So I should be following this thread for final part number and be prepared to do this so I have a speedo on my 260z when Im done. Im not sure what a Navara model is but I saw reference to it as D21. So Hardbody pickups? The ones readily avail here stateside? Thanks

I am having problems making ends of these threads. My ignorance may just be that I havent purchased the engine set yet to see what everyone is talking about. I am trying to gather all the info I possibly can before I go down this road of swaping an RB into my Z. From what Im gathering Pre 93 cars will have a mechanical sensor, but new than 93 will have a electronic sensor. Is that correct? Or was that just for the hardbody application and has nothing to do with the RB engines. I am pretty set on swapping a RB25 engine set in. I guess I will find out what is going on when I actually get my engine. For those of you guys that have a Z with the electronic speed sensor and want to run the mechanical speedos, what are you doing? Swapping in a different speedo? Im hoping someone can shed some light on this stuff. Thanks

aw got it. I pm'd him.

"Exhaust (Kakimoto) I ordered this thru Matt at motorworx on Okinawa. http://www.motorworx.tv/ I bought the GTR down pipe from the kinser auto hobby shop USMC then had it modified by matt to fit the 260z install. basically cut it in half then welded a couple of bends in it to fit" This web site is noted several times on this site. The link doesnt work. the site doesnt exist. Can Someone update this or is it just gone.

I looks like these mounts are very similar to the SR mounts they make. Do they get welded to the frame rails on the car? I would like to be able to not have to weld anything to the body like that. I know its a good way to go for the most part, but for simplicity I would like to be able to mount the engine to the front cross member. Does anyone have a picture of this mount setup in their car without the engine? Or even can confirm or deny the way they install would be nice. I might just have to talk with them on Mon, but I am not sure what I would get out of them. I have talked with several places saying they are the way to go and they make a good product. Second hand info though

That is a whole lot of helpful info to start with... Will check some of this out in the morning...

I have some questions about swapping an RB that arent clearified or answered directly that I can find. I looked over several threads. BTW one of the links for a guy named Matt at motorworks doesnt work anymore. Its in several posts. Anyway I am looking into swapping a RB25DET into my 74 260z. First, I find myself looking over motors and noticing they have 2 types. a first gen and a second gen. After being led around by ppl who I am sure are just trying to off some motor they cannot sell for what they paid for it I am unsure on the real story. I assume its just a wiring difference? Is there an advantage to having the second gen? Improved fuel mapping etc? Second, I have heard of and seen several RB25DET engines with the mid sump oil pan. I am told they are Laural engines. I dont know for sure. I have read here than most ppl pull the 200zr RB20 pan. There are so many swaps here and variations I am unclear which pans swap and which pans dont. I would think all RB pans interchange including the RB26dett with the diffy in the pan. But that might be to easy. I might end up buying a RB25 engine with a front sump so I thought I would have a handle on figuring out what I should expect. Third, I am seeing some confusing information about mounts and cross members. I see at least one person swapped a RB20DET into a Z and used the RB20DET engine mounts and the RB20DET trans mount with the early Z transmission cross member. I read that the engine mounts need the locator dowl ground off because it was reversed, but that they bolt up. Is any of this true or did I completely read that wrong or misunderstand it? I have read the RB25 stuff wont bolt over and I can see that plainly. The RB25DET trans cross member looks like a 240sx member. So I know it wont bolt into the Z. I havent looked at the mount so I dont know if it will work on my car. Im I barking up the wrong tree? I am an experienced welder and I have stock so if all else fails I can do it but its nice to just bolt things together esp when the RB20 mounts can be had locally. Fourth, I have been looking for a thread here. I can find it. I thought it was here at least. I was curious where everyone has purchased their motors. I am very interested in purchasing from NeoTech in SoCal. They have been the most easy to deal with so far and I have at least one recommendation for them. The only other place that I would consider is Tokyomotorimports in Canada. I would only buy from them if someone can tell me they are reputable. They dont take Paypal so I am leary. Sorry if I asked anything stupid Im prepared for your tar and feathers. Thanks Ray

Clifford from back in the day. They use to make valve covers. They use to make intake and exhaust manifolds to. Not for sure though. They use to put their Name in big capital letters on everything. Ray

I need to find a builder for a custom throttle cable hopefully here in Cali. Its for an engine swap of course but the only places I can find cables seems to be motorcycle places. They arent to confident they can build the cable I need.

what happened to JSK? I dont know much about them or him, but I was looking for one of their fuel rails. They appear to be listed in small quantaties on ebay. Are these rails limited? I installed one for a customer and wanted one for myself but cant find what I want. They appear to be extremely high quality Ray

cutting the frame rails will make me think this over twice. What about custom headers? Would that solve the problem?

I am making a list of things to do before I dig into my next project. I have a complete 95 Q45 with a VH45de that is wrecked with only 41K miles. It runs fine but will never drive again. Since my 260z is the test platform vehicle I am pulling out the L28et and putting in the VH45 with the slushbox. I am hoping to stay in the same time bracket as the L28 turbo or faster. I am trying to figure out how to setup my tach. Im a little confused as to where it will get its signal and how I will have to modify that signal for my tach. I dont see a speedo cable either so Im assuming the car has a speed sensor and I will be SOL without an aftermarket speedo? Ive got a Fadal VCM20 CNC at work to play with as soon as I hook it up so Ive got the 3 mounts covered. Ive got the drive shaft covered locally for 180bux. Im a bit worried about the oil pan and the cross member. Anyone have any suggestions or will the engine fit in fine? I think the hood latch area may have to be removed as well? Im not totally set yet on this swap. I like my inline, Im just having trouble keeping it reliable cheaply and with the amount of boost it runs at. The VH45 should eliminate that problem. Anyone else notice that the VH45 tends to fail around 200K with bad rod knock? I am a bit conserned with that as well. Ray

There was one in San Jose PNP. I forgot to tell you when you came down today.

I ran a 83 turbo engine in my 71 for a year with a 75 ECU and harness. I swapped thee guts from my 75 afm into the turbo afm housing. I used the stock injectors and kept it under 8 lbs of boost. Timimg was key for sure. I also strickly regulated the FPR and return line. It wasn't the best setup(why I switched) but it work fairly well and I would think for stock boost it would be just fine. Oh I had no CSV on my setup... tried the Z31 eccs and stopped, and am now running the stock 280zx eccs system.

It isn't like what you are describing, but will definatly prevent heat soak. The final assembly will have a scoop/guide like in Link, and it will have a custom air dam to help feed the intercooler/radiator. I'm thinking about placing a fan between them as well. The intercooler on my car is big enough for just about any monster application and if by chance it isn't a slightly larger version that from my calc. should fit barely! Oh pay no attention to the mesh on the front of the car... I was trying to find something to emulate the fairlady grill... it sucked.

I like the RC engineering injectors. I got a used set of 500cc injectors and am running around 15lbs of boost in one of my cars. I'm still trying to figure out the megasquirt stuff, but I will be using those injectors with the Mega Squirt System when I set it up on my 71 240Z. 300 isn't unreasonable, but make sure you deal with the piston issues durring the buildup. Also when you have the stock turbo worked on if that is your plan, make sure to deal with the thrust bear!!! I recently figured out that anything more than like 10psi of boost on a basically stock turbo system will damage the turbo unit quite fast. Make sure you run some sort of BOV before the throttle plate it helps, but is not a complete fix. Replace the 180 deg bearing with a 360 deg bearing in conjunction with the BOV and you'll be good. If you are using the stock turbo unit...

But How fast you can rev will have a lot to do with the amount of torque the individual engine transfers to each connecting rod. That is IF you look to the bottom end for your limitations. The top end as Tony pointed out is the starting point though.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106459 The "Wangan Midnight" video rip. Someone has to have a good copy. Once I get it and get my server up and secure I'd be willing to host it.

The problem is that I am having a hard time finding good info. What I am looking at is building the LD/V07 for about the same price as the F54. I have multiple sets of both engines. So that isn't a problem. I have rear sump LD blocks. The only machine work I was running into was the cam towers. DAW informs me I don't have to machine them using a specific BMW head bolt. So other than me tapping a few holes and pipe plugging them on the deck there is no other machine work if I am willing to stay within a reasonable bore, under 89mm. Rods may be an additional cost if I don't stick with the L20B rods. My goal is 400 foot lbs of torque. I wish we had more stonehenge type sites out there. I was feed a lot of miss information at first so I'm just trying to iron it out. I'm leaning away from sleeving the block. After talking with people who have done it, it sounds as if there are way to many things that can easily go wrong and cost lots of money shortly down the road. I'd rather have the reliability. I'm reading throught your site now, I've never come accross it before.

To use the taller deck height, to get a better rod angle, to reduce wear and problems. It's worth the small amount of machine work. It's very little more than what I would have to do to a F54 block. I probably won't sleeve my block. I'm looking at building a 3.0L. It doesn't appear I will get much more diplacment from a F54 block anyway. The center bores are exactly the same. Basically I'm building a L20B 6 cylinder.

The LD can hold more oil... but there are no baffles are anything else for any racing purposes. You will have to do that yourself. All Engine Distributing Fresno Ca Dennis always has a LD around. He isn't the cheappest, but he is straight forward with what you are buying. He use to race the 4 cyl Nissan diesels on the salt flats. Or eventually you will find a LD inhabited maxima at the JY.

Just got off the phone with the tech from Jim Wolf technology. Just as 1 fast z had said they couldn't bore past a few mm. Their tolerances were even more than 1 fast z had said was acceptable max. At 89.5mm they filled the water jack up to the top of the top piston ring height @ BDC. They said also that there was a early edition LD block that was not imported state side that wasn't siemessed. That it would be good for a sleeved application. The deal with sleeving as described to me is that there is a problem with the oil gallery feeding the head. He also mentioned the biggest block he had seen was around 3.5L sleeved with a 92mm crank available back in the '70s aftermarket. So a 4L was ever so slightly exagerated. I don't like to call someone a liar and I will give Jerry the benifit of the doubt. I could have miss understood him or he could have been having a dislexic day or something. His motor sits around 3.1L so I have no idea where the other numbers came from. So it looks to me as I will be building a 3.0 L stroker engine. So now that everyone is telling me the same thing I hope to have the truth. I like it when everyone can agree. So it looks like pistons- custom Ross based on KA24E 89mm dished 40.05 pin height 25.4mm floating pin probably change the ring heights as well. Offset should be good. crank - LD28 lightened micro polish etc rods - L20B Carrillo H rods w/ 25.4mm piston side bore. block - LD28 bored 89mm devcon steel epoxy as specified, and a lot of minor machine work. So there you have it. I'm still a long way from physically starting anything, so expect changes and additions. My site will be up soon with detailed information. Thanks for the help

"Hi Ray, I have given a copy of this E-mail to our engineer and he will try to contact you on Monday or Tuesday in the AM. Best regards, Ben Pila (Technical and Sales Support) Jim Wolf Technology, Inc. " It's hard to get good info these days.