rayaapp2

So I don't hijack the other thread anymore: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112440 Jerry @ http://www.zraceproducts.com Actually there isn't much there accept for pictures, but you can e-mail Jerry about his motor. My project pictures are on the previous post. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ I would like to see if anyone has used DAW's BMW head bolt solution. What are the specs for that bolt? What engines, and model did they come from? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...&highlight=DAW I'm not trying to fight anyone here so let's try and keep it civil. I have PM'd a few of you guys to try and get some answers. Jim Wolf Technologies is telling me the same thing as Jerry McGrath. Some of you are telling me that what they're telling me is bull. I will get to talk personally to Jim Wolf's tech tomorrow morning whereas before I was getting my info second hand through Ben Pila. I just want a few opinions and explanations are here so I can sort the facts out. I will have my spare block bored out 9.5mm and see where that puts me. If I have to sleeve so be it, but from what I am told this shouldn't be necessary.

It's not suppost to be open during high loading conditions. It would most definately rob you of power then. It is only suppost to open during cruise. Engineers made it that way so that you wouldn't lose power and the fact that, that is the place where the engine spends most of it's time making nox anyway. So if the are calling it high load as in when you go to WOT then I would say that is inaccurate info that any smog tech should be able to shoot down as a lie. Light to medium loads under "1/4 throttle" in most cases is when the EGR is suppost to open. I've talked with numerous smog technicians and the teachers that trained them. In fact I have a 1998 edition of their text book. This is what I was taught. You better have better proof than a google quote, cause that looks faulty to me. I don't deny that what your saying is sound, but I will say that at the time which I specified the power loss is moot. You'll never know and it doesn't rob you of mileage. All performance aspects are there. Your not racing your car at less than 1/4 throttle and are you?

My bad your right. preignition would be the correct term. So please argue with me how that really affects the performance of your car... Are your really going to notice the difference at cruise? On top of which a lot of manufactures engineer their cars with the EGR in mind. Take for example the KA series engines from the early 90's. The computers were bias lean. Lean at cruise + heat = preignition. The combustion chambers just got to hot. You would definately find this out the moment you EGR stopped working. All you would do is hear ping ping ping down the highway. I even owned a 240sx that suffered from this. I'm no engineer; in fact for from it. So take this next part as a question from a youngster. How is dumping a small amount of inert gas into the cumbustion chamber going to rob you of you MPG?

Hopefully not. I've got a spare block thanks to another local member. On top of which this is not the first attempt by anyone to go beyond 89mm. The diesel block can go to 104mm effectively making it a 4L. Problem with that is then you do have to do something about stengthening the cyinder walls. I just don't know at what point that is. The diesel walls are much thicker... because it's diesel. The specs for the diesel are not the same as the maximum bore specs for a gas engine. I have already spoken to Carrillo about custom rods and to Ross about the pistons, rings, and pins. I have the L20B rods, but they aren't looking to beefy being the same size as L24 rods just much longer. It's turbo'd so I'm not pushing the CR. maybe 9:1. Give me enough low end torque while the boost is coming on. Custom gasket... I'm still searching. I may end up doing it the old school way with the copper rings or something. I'm sending the head off to a local machinist that has been working on them since the 80's. (My missinformation sorry) My head will end up getting torqued to 120lbs... I beleive MY head bolts are 14mm bolts for the diesel block and the stock turbo/na petrol bolts are 12mm. That is why the cam towers must be machined. The stock ones are 10mm and the diesel ones are 12mm. I've spoken with Ben and his technician at Jim Wolfe Technologies. They've been doing this long before I knew what a zcar was. Nothing new. As I said I'm not the first and some have built 4L...In fact take a good look at Jerry's car... http://www.zraceproducts.com I'm waiting for him to post a dyno sheet. He claims to have already made 600hp before the increase in displacement. He claims more now. Timing control is also in the works. Lots of work to do still. The rod:stroke is exactly why I am using the LD block, I found out later it could be bored. I've got to start messign around with this other diesel block. Pin height would be moved to 40.05mm and create a 0mm deck height. w/1mm gasket and my P90a head that's just above 9:1 if I remember right. Anyway your squeezen my secrets out now.

I suppose that is why EGR valves are still in use on most modern vehicles today even Diesel applications, because they want to reduce the nitrogens of Oxide and rob you of performance. They are never suppose to be working at any time except cruise... They do clean up the nox, but they also lower the combustion chamber temp by adding in inert gas. This will prevent PREDETONATION. It will improve the emissions and keep your combustion chamber temperature lower. This is why diesels and forced induction engines have EGR valves and it is important to keep them in good working order. It doesn't help or hurt your performance. It does a little for the longevity of your engine though while keeping your engine's emissions clean. I can't believe this is still being debated here. A quick search within the past 1.5 years will give you all the info you need about the EGR.

V07 Engine I got my L20B cover, timing chain, and rods after the pics. I've gotta send the head off still so I didn't bother cleaning it up yet. Also I have yet to do this http://www.zraceproducts.com I have a list of stuff to get still including a balancer, carrillo rods, Ross pistons, etc... Oh almost forgot to mention: VW standard piston size of 94mm. I let you guys play with that though it may take a while to sink in.

If you could get your hands on a 5.4 you'd be a lot happier. At least with my dealings with the trucks the 5.4 was still a bit torque-less but in comparison with the 4.6 it was far stronger. I'm sure most people here would agree it's fun to stomp the 4.6 stangs to... If your gonna sqeeze get the 3 valve 5.4 and get modifying. Custom headers, chip it, or supercharged... See what others have to say about the 4.6. If you look into the archives of this site you find far wider motors have made there home under the Z hood.

Comparing the dish piston I pulled from my 77 280z N42 engine to the Piston pulled from my 83 280ZXT engine... The top ring land was smaller on the turbo. I can't find a mic to check it, but the N42 dished piston is approx 1/3 bigger than the Turbo top ring! I don't have a flat top F54 to compare it to. Just thought this might be a bit interesting for you guys. I would have thought it the other way around as explained earlier in this thread.

sounds like i need to get the mic out and take some more pictures.

I don't plan on stroking mine. I will be boring it a bit. Adding forged pistons. I'm definately not a NOS master. I'd be interested to see you run a 200 shot on a boosted L28. If you can do that I could definatley learn something from you. Balancing is critical. The reason I shy away from the stroker is pretty simple. I don't doubt that it works. Pistons are made to go only so fast. The piston then becomes critical. Some pistons just can handle the acceleration. You could very well take out the cylinder wall and piston if you don't carefully choose your combo. If I could do that it would not be a matter of "stroking it or not". It's not in my budget to do the R&D to figure out what combo works with the sort of engine you plan to build(power wise). At that point you might as well buy a Robello's(sp?) engine. If you had money I don't know why you wouldn't have someone like that build one custom for you. Make sure you stiffen up that suspension and fatten up the rear wheels. Building it to last is the challenge for me as well. This will be my first high HP/Torque Lseries. Like I said trail by test.

I've pulled lots of pistons. As far as I'm concerned there is little to no difference between Turbo and N/A pistons. Before you all go off let me try and explain what I have examined. The Pistons I've pulled from L28ET(F54) engines are almost EXACTLY the same as dished L28 pistons from say an N42 block. There is a small difference just under the wrist pin that was enlarged slightly. It is otherwise the same. The flat top(F54) pistons are just a slight variant. The difference is that simple. Flat Top and Dished. As far as I can tell one is not weaker than the other. The ring lands seem to the naked eye to be the same. I have pictures I was going to post at a later time. If you want to bother e-mailing me I will send them to you. As you have read though. The stock pistons can handle a bit of power when executed properly. Stock L28ET boost was set at 4PSI of boost. The end of the Guage past the red area would be 7PSI.

Your going to hit all the same problems I came up with. You will find that most all people around the forums will not be able to help you truly. Except to say that, that won't work. Which in my case is an unacceptable answer. Try doing some research into Electromotive, jeffP, Bob Sharp, and Paul Newman .They have all built L28's that have surpassed 500HP. I don't know how much you'll find. From what I've found I have a good idea on what has to be done to finish my engine. I know I don't know everything to build the engine yet though. It's gonna be trial by test. I'm starting with 2 stock turbo engines and building them up for just under 400 lbs of torque.

yeah it weighs in under 3300. It's GVWR is 3300. So I could honestly est. 2700 if the car just had me in it and half a tank of gas.

My 83 ZXT 2+2 just rolled 1/4 million miles. 250,000 miles. I had to do some minor fixing including a leaky exhaust manifold, valve stem seals, and broken exhaust stud. The factory head gasket is still there! It's never been opened up. I am the second owner. The car is good shape still and runs well. It'll almost do 15 flat in the 1/4 mile. Not bad for a car rated at 3300 lbs. and is 22 years old!

If I am running 1 quart low on the street in my '83 turbo I DO NOTICE! The guage reads a lower pressure and won't jump to 90 like normal. This is only on heavy street use. I would say it could be potentaily dangerous. I'm not real sure the exact reason my car does that. It might be that my oil filter is clogged. The other 2 cars won't make a difference 1 or even a bit more low. In any case do what ever with that info.

I have all but the LD in my possesion currently. L24 through L28 and Turbo. The timing covers ALL interchange. Even the oil seal is the same. They are all the same minus the Turbo type distributor drive. "drzed" is correct. I beleive "here comes trouble" is also correct look up a part number and definition for a timing cover gasket for the your engine specifically the FelPro set. It comes with 2 sets inside. One covers the 4 cylinders and the other set covers the 6 cylinders.

Another member here is running this for his chevy.

http://www.galebanksengineering.com/tech.cfm here is a great link... "Why Diesels Make So Much Torque" http://www.galebanksengineering.com/Tech_somuchtorque.cfm "Airflow — The Secret To Making Power" http://www.galebanksengineering.com/Tech_SecrettoMakingPower.cfm http://www.galebanksengineering.com/tech_howairflows.cfm "Airflow Equals Fuel Economy" http://www.galebanksengineering.com/Tech_AirflowEqualsFuelEcono.cfm "Part of the reason diesels get better fuel economy and make more power than gasoline engines is that diesel fuel has approximately 11 percent more energy per gallon than gasoline. A typical gasoline has 124,800 Btu per gallon, while typical diesel has 138,700 Btu per gallon. Diesel fuel does have an oily feeling if you get some on your fingers, and it doesn’t evaporate as quickly as gasoline either. It is the low volatility of diesel fuel that makes it less likely to ignite if spilled, but given an ignition source, it will ignite. It is, after all, fuel. So much for that myth.""About Diesel Fuel" http://www.galebanksengineering.com/tech_aboutdieselfuel.cfm "First Air – Then Fuel" http://www.galebanksengineering.com/Tech_firstair-thenfuel.cfm All Links are from Gale Banks Web site. I told you I do this for a living... There is a lot more out there to.... I don't know enough to build a diesel up ...yet, but I know enough to make your 9000lb superduty with 37" tires run 11 sec 1/4 mile times... also this is a big one here: "Understanding Today’s Diesel" http://www.galebanksengineering.com/Tech_todaysdiesel.cfm "Gasoline engines operate within a narrow air/fuel ratio range of approximately 12:1 to 15:1, although some modern “lean-burn†technology engines have been able to achieve significantly leaner air/fuel ratios.Diesels can operate with a broader range as rich as 15:1 or as lean as 60:1, however, going richer than about 22:1 to 25:l produces excessive temperature, soot, smoke, and poor fuel economy. Some aftermarket diesel chip manufactures simply dump in excessive fuel for power, causing the engine to operate in the undesirable rich range, as evidenced by plumes of black smoke. Thermal efficiency of diesels can be, and is, further enhanced with turbocharging to increase the available air (oxygen) to support combustion of more fuel. Gasoline engines cannot tolerate significantly higher cylinder pressure from turbocharging without creating preignition and/or detonation unless high-octane or ultra-high-octane gasoline is used." read all the way through this one.

So we have an engine that redlines at half the gas motor's. The intake is built slightly bigger than the gas motors. It at least has the potential to flow the same, but the engine doesn't rev as fast. Just something to think about... Ever hook a vacuum guage to a diesel engine? The diesel engine has to flow twice as much as the gas motor. I don't have it completely figured out yet, but here is what I do have. It has to do with the volumetric difference created by the combustion chamber. Because it can squish 20:1 vs 9:1 (approx number) This is why the cam can be so small. Even at idle the diesel flows approx twice as the gas counterpart. Let's say the engine has to take in 20 cc of air as a figurative number to be squished in order to get the correct air to fuel ratio. The gas engine only has to take in 9cc of air. That's less than half the amount of the diesel. The cam is built around this fact. The gas engine doesn't create the same difference in pressure the diesel engine does. I know there are some holes in this you guys will try and pick at. I know from experience that a diesel will flow more volume per rpm than a gas engine. I just am trying to figure out why and explain. All you really have to do is put a vacuum guage on and check it for yourself. I am going to talk with one of my buddies about this tonight and come up with a clear explanation. thanks also Another thing to think about... Diesels make torque and little HP. Air velocity has a HUGE impact on making torque... Evidence of a larger difference in pressure...

diesels move MORE volume than gas! Read up on it. Also look at the HUGE intake for the diesel motor. It flows more because the engine consumes more. The T-3 turbo will spool fast on the diesel because of the volume! BUT it may spool up to fast and become ineffieciant before you get anywhere near redline. This is where having a larger second turbo would be great. But having a single turbo that covers the exact range you want would save you a few headaches. I work on Power Strokes, Cummins, and Duramax trucks everyday. I dare you to get one of those to spool up on you L series engine before redline! VOLUME. Not only are all those engines approx 6.0L engines but they are diesels. My 7.4 L 454 CI stocker doesn't flow as much as those engines. I'll be back with some prof later

I'm actually building one right now. Search here and zcar.com for my posts. 26psi of boost is possible with the diesel engine. It just needs new seals and good compression. The LD28 has lower compression than most diesels already, but that doesn't matter that much in the world of diesel. I am slowing finding out diesels are completely different that gas. Obviously you'll have to modify the A/F! This is also done through the stock fuel pump for the diesel. It has a adjuster screw that lines up through a specail window for adjustment. It can be turned up from what I hear to 5X the stock fuel delivery. There are also aftermarket pumps for industrial apps for this engine. I am going to be starting out with a ceramic ball bearing turbo from a VG33 made in japan. I may find that this turbo does not meet the CFM requirements at higher boost though. I would stick with a single turbo setup. You total RPM range is 4600 rpms. The diesel block is the strongest. It is different from the gas block. You'll see once you get a diesel engine. Very obvious. As far as ignition goes use the maximas. It's just a fuel cut. Build your own... doesn't matter all that much just make sure that all fuel can be cut in the event that your diesel runs away!

I've been doing a little research and I see your right. I was always told that powder coating was a ceramic. No I know it's not. Thanks! I see there are several different types as well. http://www.commercial-industrial-finishing-equipment.com/powder-coating-systems.htm Thankyou

Cause I would really like to powder coat my engine to. I think the main difference is that heat is conducted through the iron block but has to radiate through the ceramic coating. Trying to radiate the heat through the coating is very hard! This is a potential problem. Paint is pretty conductive itself so it isn't a problem. Just my theory...

What's available in the aftermarket community? Am I stuck with having a custom header built? Having a custom header wouldn't be so bad... I could space the turbo away from the intake manifold... Just curious if someone offers them already.