z-ya

After a little browsing, I found these. All of which are available in 4 lug, and just about any backspace. http://www.usacomp.com/ps.htm http://www.usacomp.com/cxn.htm http://www.usacomp.com/tfn.htm http://www.usacomp.com/ts.htm http://www.usacomp.com/mor.htm IF you call them, they are very helpfull. There is about a 4 week lead time as they are made order in the UK. Prices aren't bad for a custom made wheel.

Look at the Compomotive Wheels: http://www.usacomp.com As soon as I have enough $, I'm going to order a set of MOs in silver: http://www.usacomp.com/mo.htm If you tell them you are using them for racing, they give you a decent discount. Pete

Can I use a high pressure EFI pump as a lift pump for a surge tank? The will be little to no pressure on it's outlet because it will just be keeping the surge tank full. The surge tank has a return to the main tank so there will be little to no pressure, just flow. Thanks, Pete

Hi Warren, I live in NH and have no problem finding engine parts for L Series ingines. I'm rebuilding one right now. BTW, there is a local New ENgland Z Car club that is quite active: http://www.zccne.addr.com We have members from all over NE, incluging maine. In fact we have a member in maine that has a L28 turbo in his 280Z. He is now converting it over to megasquirt. As a club we help each other out with parts. Each of us has a stock of stuff, so chances are, another member has what you are looking for. Pete

Shouldn't it go: tank - filter - pump - filter - carb - carb - carb - regulator - return line This will maintain a contant pressure at the inlet to the float bowl. If you put the regulator before the carbs, the fuel line from the tank to the pump will be at the correct pressure, but the pressure at the carbs will not be consitant. Correct? Pete

If you add a surge tank, and an additional low pressure "lift" pump to keep it full, you will never have any starvation problems. Here is an idea which I've been pondering: What if you use a modified steel 240Z expansion tank as a surge tank? With a little wedling, I would think you could convert one to a surge tank. I've been thinking about doing this for a while. If I get to it this winter, I'll post some picks, and insturctions. I don't have an expansion tank in my car now, just some fittings connecting all the hoses together. Right now below 1/4 tank on my 240Z, I have a fuel starvation problem doing hard left turns. Pete

Joel, Call Summit Racing, give them your application (what calipers you are running), and they will send them out to you. I've had them on my car for a few years now, and they are great for flushing old fluid out of the brake system before a track day. A little pricey (I think around $10 each), but well worth it. Pete

If you keep the overall tire diameter the same, you will have a more squishy side wall (more flex) with 14s. Your car will definitely handle better with 15s having the same overall tire diameter.

You may want to shoot me for saying this, but why replace an engine that is perfect for turbochaging, and replace it with one that really isn't, and bolt turbos on it? Why yank a superior engine design ( L series engine) out, a replace it with a push rod six? You are going to spend a lot more money than just dropping in a ZXT engine. The performance and reliability I think woul be lower with the Chevy 250. I'm not knocking the Chevy engine, I think they are cool motors (I had a 67' Chevy window van with one). Now if you are sold on the Chevy 250 approach, don't waste your time with carburetors. First, you can't safely run an air to air intercooler with a draw through carb setup. You can with a blow through setup, but then there are all sorts of problems that arise when you try to preusrize a carburetor. You are going to have to do a lot of fabrication anyway to get those turbos on the Chevy 250, so build an EFI intake while you are at it. Or, you may be able to just weld injector bungs into you stock manifold, and use an OEM throttle body. Or, use a GM TBI. You can use either with a megasquirt. Or spend some more and get an aftermarket engine computer that will do direct fir ignition. You really want a lot of control over timing. What compression ratio do you plan on running? How much boost? Pete

Sorry missed your question. No, you cant use the LD28 crank and L28 rods and pistons. The pistons will be sticking above the deck 2mm (will hit the head, no pun intended). What pistons will you be using? If they are flat tops the resulting compression ratio would be around 10.2:1. Not good for a turbo.

If you want to build a budget turbo motor, just get a low mileage short block and put a fresh head on it. Don't waste you time and $ trying to make a stroker. It's not really worth it. The stock turbo pistons are stronger than KA24 pistons. To build a stroker turbo motor you really need forged pistons. There are people getting over 300HP at the wheels running junkyard motors with big turbos and aftermarket engine management. And they are very relaible. Stick with the stock turbo long block, put a fresh head, and metal head gasket on it. You'll be surprised how much power you can get out out of the stock long block reliably. If you want an NA L28, then a stroker will definitely give you more power, but then it all going to cost you some $$ Pete

I think you are better off raising the CR, than boring and stroking and ending up with a relatively low CR (unless it's going to be turbocharged). I'm building a 0.04 over L28 with flat tops and an N47 head. The CR will be 10:1, and the displacement will be just over 2800cc (a real 2.8L!). I'm using stock L28 crank, and rods. It's a budget motor, that I think will be a real screamer. Pete

Dan, I'm making them all the same bore (1mm over) wise guy I wonder how having one slightly heavier piston would effect engine balance? Pete

Sorry to seem stupid, what the heck does JDM mean anyway? "Japanese Display-Only Machine" Performance always before looks. If it don't improve performance, then it's not worth the time or money IMO. Pete

If so, this might be a big help: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2455271472&category=6763

While you ghot it appart, use an OEM intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Those paper only ones aren't so great. The OEM ones are a metal/paper sandwich. Pete

I talked with my machinist last week, and he told me that only cylinder #1 was bored 0.5mm over. The rest are stock bore. Huh? Then I realized that when I pulled the motor appart, I only cleaned off the top of piston #1. This is where I saw a 0.5 clearly stamped on the top. I checked the rest of the pistons and the tops have nothing stamped on them. Must of been a dealer quick fix? The motor was rebuilt because it had a reground crank (0.25mm), and a FelPro head gasket. Lot's of silicone sealant used, so I don' think it was remanufactured. Anyway, I've decided to bore it 1mm over (all 6 cylinders ). I'll be running flat tops with an N47 head. Should make a nice street motor. Pete

I used the same setup on my 240Z for around 4 years. It's definitely stiffer than stock, but not as stiff as a linear performance spring. Expect the car to be about 1.5" lower than stock. Personally I think it's the best all around spring. Not too stiff, but not to mushy either. Pete

A spelling error, why? BTW, I left two to many coil over hats in the box. I also need six of those big washers in there. Bring them to work, and I'll pick them up when I drop off the struts. Pete

Pipe down there Rootsmonkey!

You can replace the freeze plugs in the side of the engine with it still in the car. You need to remove the timing cover to get at the fron one, and you need to remove the transmission or engine to remove the rear freeze plug. Pete

Can only get them all silver, or all gunmetal. I'm still undecided, but thanks to everyone for their comments. The CEnterlines I'm using for the track will have the center's painted gunmetal, and I'll leave the rims polished. Pete

I'm getting closer to odering my street/autocross wheels. I'm running 16x8 Centerlines for track wheels. Which color do you like better on my car, silver or gunmetal? They are Compomotive MO wheels. It's a Photoshop job.... Thanks, Pete

I just got a reground crank for my winter L6 project, and the end where the damper goes is knurled. Anyone see this before? I haven't. With the cranksaft keys, I'm not sure what knurling the end would accomplish. Pete

I agree with blueovalz, the overall rim width of an 8" wheel is 9". Divide that by two to find the zero offset backspacing. The difference between the desired backspacing and the zero offset backspacing will be the new offset. Offset = backspace - (width/2) = 5 - 4.5 = 0.5 Pete