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I've seen people use the low profile foam type air filter. Here is a similar one at Summit: http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=18&s=2&p=795&searchtype=ecat

Sim, What Wolf 3D system are you using? I've been using the v3.0 Wolf 3D for years now with great sucess. Pete

I would suggest adapting the 240Z sending units to the VG30DET engine. You want to use senders that match the gauges. That's what I did for my L28ET swap. You may need to do a little drilling and taping of the thermostat housing, or you made need to find some metric pipe thread adapters. Hope this helps, Pete

Does the late 280Z (77,78) brake booster offer more power assist than the 240Z booster? Will the 280Z brake booster fit in a 240Z without hacking? Thanks, Pete

I'm running the GM sensor for both air and coolant temp, and it works fine. It not turbocharged though. From what I hear, you want to use a different one for air temp if you are turbocharging it. Air temp sensors should be located in the intake plenum as SleeperZ indicated. It doesn't matter if it is before or after the TB, just that it is as close to the combustion chamber as possible. It is there that it will get the most accurate reading. Pete

Juan, Why not just use one of the Wilwood 11.00" ultra light straight vaned rotors? http://www.wilwood.com/products/rotors/ulv/index.asp Why not use this one that Summit carries? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WIL%2D160%2D5840 Pete

I'm starting to look at calipers. The Billet NDL comes in 4 different piston sizes. Which is best for the 7/8" master cylinder. Better yet, what about the 15/16 MS? I'll be running the 240SX calipers in the rear. Pete

S30Z Bushido, Size, backspacing, manufacturer? Nice wheels! Pete

The stock 240Z brakes are fine for street use, and adequate for limited track use. For track use, you need to bleed the brakes with DOT4 fluid before each event. You also need to adjust the rear shoes before each event too. I have no problems with fade during 20 minute road course sessions. I run Porterfield R4S pads, which are great, but squeak a lot when cold. Of course ITS cars are requied to run stock brakes (not pads), so that tells you something about the stock brakes. I ran the 4x4 calipers for one season, but didn't really notice much of a difference in stopping power. No difference in fade resistance. You need vented rotors to really notice a difference there. I am however upgrading to a Wilwood setup this winter. You can only go as fast as your brakes are good (if that makes any sense). Pete

To me, wiring in 6 inline resistors is a lot easier than building the flyback circuit, and figuring out how to mount it, etc. etc. Just my .02 Pete

Look here: http://www.zccne.addr.com/Members/John_Jeffery/rebuild/new-engine.jpg Pete

The open air sensors still moun in the intake, they just have an exposed element, not hte solid brass one like the water temp sensor. You just need to buy the 3/8' NPT tap, and the right drill, and your all set.

Yes one goes to the T-Stat housing to measure coolant temp, and the other is in the intake to measure air temp. I had to re-tap bot the T-Stat housing and the intake manifold. It's a 3/8" NPT. For turbo applications they recommend using an "open air" sensor for air temp. It uses the same connector as the other one. You can get the connectors at Autozone, but they are kind of pricey. I used some used Nissan ones that were in good shape. Like Sims76 said, you are better off making up your own new harness, rather than try to use old wiring. It's not too hard to do. Pete

I'm running 5 Ohm resistors in series now, so I should be safe turning of fPWM. Did alternating vs simultaneous injector staging make any difference? I've been running simultaneous so far. Thanks, Pete

Sims, Thanks for pointing me to your MS settings. A couple questions: * What value resistor are you running in series with each injector? * Do you have three injectors on one driver, and three on the other? Thanks, Pete

I'm triggering a Megasquirt with the "-" terminal of a stock coil, driven by an NA distributor/ignition modlule. Needed a slight mod to the pickup circuit (added one capacitor), but it works fine. Pete

I used GM sensors for both air and coolant. The the same reason you are, to keep it simple. For turbo they say you shoulduse the open air type. I'm using the closed ones for both. I have the air temp sensor mounted in the intake, downstream of the throttle body. Look at the pic, it's the one wit the black and white twisted pair connected to it. The red and black is the coolant temp. Pete

I got my Megasquirted NA 10:1 L6 started and idling this week. Amazing how universal this ECU is. Not only did it start right up, but the throttle respose seems pretty decent, even with all the defaul enrichment settings. All I did was set the REQ_FUEL, and a few other basic constants an it started right up. I'm using an early ZX distributor with the stock ignition module and coil. I had to add the "Dave" cap to the ignition trigger circuit because I was getting false triggers. This thing is awesome. Now I need an exaust system Here are a few pics:

Simon, Email me off the list, I can probably help you out. Pete

I'm running a Wolf 3D wich has a similar hand controller as the SDS. It also has data logging. It's a rock solid product, and very easy to program. Pete

Dan Baldwin has, Dan?? Pete

I bought this one for my race car project: http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=18&s=112&p=4421&searchtype=ecat Should be starting it up in the nect few days, let you know how it goes. Pete

There are instructions in the 280ZX Nissan service manual for replacing hoses. In fact Nissan reccomends replacing them if the injector is removed. All you need is some 5/16" fuel injection hose. I bought some here: http://www.sherco-auto.com/hose.htm They have the clamps too. I bought 10ft to replace all the high pressure fuel lines on the car. When removing the rail, just cut the old hoses to make it easier (measure one for length first). Cut the remaining old hoses off the injectors. Cut new hoses, and install them by wetting the ends with a little fuel. Then just push them on the injector. Install the injector in the manifold with new seals. Push the fuel rail onto all six injectors at the same time (a little fuel works good here too). Clamp them and you ar done. Hope this is helpfull. Pete

The problem with clamping the return hose is that now there is very little fuel flowing through the pump and fuel rail when idling, and cruising. The fuel will heat up in the fuel rail and possibly cause vapor lock. Most fuel pumps are lubricated and cooled by the fuel going throught them. If you are just providing pressure, and not much flow, you could damage your fuel pump in the long run. I'd do it the correct way and pick up an adjustable FPR. Pete

Short story: I had these linear rate springs in my 72' 240Z, and the ride height was about 2" lower than stock. I took them out a few years ago and put in Eibachs for a smoother ride. A few of us in my local club are building a track car, and I had these springs, so we put them in. The problem is that the ride height is way too high (about an inch higher than stock). The club car is a 73' body, with 72' strut assemblies. We have Koni strut cartriges installed. Any help appreciated. Pete