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Very nice numbers! You should ask the dyno guy for a plot that also shows AFR. Looks like the power was starting to drop off around 6800. I'd keep it below 7000 with cast pistons.

I'd never use stacked gaskets, especially in a high (over 9:1) compression ratio application. That is unless you like changing them

So then per Gollum's suggestion, you have a grounding problem. Why did you relocate the battery? I suggest putting back in the engine compartment and running new cables directly to the starter. All this probably has something to due with your ignition problem. Let's fix one problem at a time.

Since this has been covered to very painful extremes in other threads, my only comment would be with this picture: Usually you would want a positive deck height (piston protruding above deck surface)so that the piston to head clearance is minimal (taking into consideration rod and piston stretch at high RPMs). On my recent build you can see that the piston is about 0.004" (0.1mm) above the deck. The object is to get the piston as close to the head as possible to improve the squish.

This is what I would try. Disconnect the main + cable and solenoid wire from the starter. Remove the battery from the car and connect it to the starter with jumper cables. Minus (-) to chassis, and plus (+) to the large terminal on the solenoid. Then make a short wire that you can intermittently connect between the solenoid spade connector and the + jumper cable (or battery +). This should isolate the car electrical from the starter. Touch the wire from the spade connector on the starter to the battery +. Pull the spark plugs out. The engine should turn freely for an extended period of time if the battery is fully charged (charge it before this test). If the engine slowly cranks and then dies, then you may have internal mechanical engine issues.

I had to hone the damper slightly to slip on without too much force. You should always check the TDC mark and pointer with relation to cylinder #1 TDC.

I thought you already had the LD28 crank. If you don't, just build the L28 as I listed. It's not really worth the cost and effort unless you go with the 89mm bore. You can't get the HKS gasket anymore, and the Kameari one is $300. Just use a Felpro, or OEM gasket.

I'm not sure using the LD crank in this configuration will gain you much. I'm also not a big fan of taking any material off OEM pistons (even though it is done for most all L31 builds using OEM 240SX pistons). So I would either just build an L28: P90 head - 53.67cc Felpro gasket - 1mm 280zx Flat top pistos - 87mm bore 280z rods - 130.2mm Crank L28 - 79mm CR: 9.9:1 Displacement: 2850 Or, since you have to bore anyway, and you will be buying new pistons, pick up a set of L24 rods and just build an L31: P90 head - 53.67cc Big bore gasket - 1mm 240SX pistons - 89mm bore, 1mm mill 240z rods - 133mm Crank LD28 - 83mm CR: 9.9:1 Displacement: 3098

Read about quench and squish enough on this forum. I'm not goin' there. Even with them 1mm in the hole, it is probably still worth checking the valve to piston clearance (depending on what cam you are running).

You can also just measure the deck height since it is already assembled. Yo need a dial indicator. I have a couple P90A heads if you want to do the conversion to solid lifters (or run hydraulic). I run a hydraulic head in my turbo Z. Makes 300WHP @ 15psi. Stock long block. the other option is P79. You got all winter to find a P90, right?

Hi Clive, It looks like your CR calculation is correct (I calculate 9.82:1). But are you sure the pin height is 32.5? It seems short, as the piston will be sunk 0.87mm into the block at TDC. You want a slightly positive deck height for squish. Also, don't waste that HKS gasket on this experiment. Use a Felpro one and save the HKS one for when you run boost. But my feeling on this is just build it the way you want it now, not later. If you are concerned about damaging it with boost during break in, just tie the waste gate open with mechanics wire. You can tune your off boost map and break it in at the same time. What is most important is to use a good break in additive like Redline. Pete

I would use the engine, ecu, turbo, etc., and part out the rest of the S13 and use the money to buy nice S30 suspension components. Nothing from the S13 will just bolt into the S30. You really need to be an expert fabricator to do this, and what will you gain in the end? You can make an S30 handle just as good as a S13 with proper components and setup.

I have one. $50 plus shipping from 03087

You have to use the chart that came with the sprocket. Hole 2 is 3 degrees advanced. See attached.

Why not just use the correct sender for the gauge in place of what is in the VG30? It may just screw into the thermostat housing without any issues. For my RB25 saw I just use the 240Z sender. I had to drill and tap the RB25 thermostat housing, but that's not a big deal to do. Also, it should be a linear relationship between temperature and resistance because a resistor is a linear device.

Yo can buy WD40 by the gallon, and use a pump sprayer. Most all body shop wax/oil removers (prep solvents), will remove WD40.

How far are the core plugs in the block? The edge of the plug should be flush with the machined surface of the hole. Sealant won't hold it in any better,it will just seal any minor leaks. What pressure radiator cap are you running? Does the thermostat have a bypass hole in it?

Yikes, repairing a pulley with JB Weld? Not sure if it is a Northeast thing or not, but I have pulled at least 20 L series apart, and I've always used my jaw puller without any damage to the damper. Like I said, they usually just slip off with an easy turn of the wrench. I'm not advocating using a jaw puller, but in a pinch, you could use it. Just be aware of the damage it could cause. Get the correct style puller.

As usual, you are correct Tony. I haven't had any issues, but I could see if you had an old damper, it might just pull pully right off. If that happens, I guess it would be time for a new damper anyway. I guess I've never had one that was seized on there that bad. They usually come right off with the jaw type puller. I actually have a bolt style one as well, but couldn't get it to work for some reason. I'll have to give it another try.

So the pressure sensor is on the main oil galley that feeds the crank? I would think you should have around 80-90psi at full load/RPM. At idle 30-60psi should be fine. It's a solid lifter motor? I'd try Bran Penn 20W50, it already has the zinc in it. I would also remove the thermostatic bypass as well. I don't run one on my vintage racer, I just have to give it ample time to get the il up to temperature. Oil temperature stays in the 200F range in the pan. I'm running one of these SW aircraft oil coolers: Stupid question, is the fan running in the correct direction? You might get another MPH on the main straight

I don't how you could trim them without messing up the mounting holes. Are they flexible?

They should conform to the shape of the body. From the listing: ATT: REQUIERE CUTTING ***AND USUALLY TAKES NO MORE THAN 20 MINUTES FOR INSTALLATION. Huh? How they can require cutting and be installed in 20 minutes. I'd ask the seller. Pete

Or you can get one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-40965.html It's what I've been using for years.

Awesome Great job!

No, I think the all of the measurements on the cam card are when the lash is set according to cam card. This will have an effect on cam timing.