z-ya

They are 5" BS, which equates to around a 12mm positive offset. So they will work with coil overs and stock fenders. And now I remember that one tire is a Yokohama DOT track tire. I've run this configuration the car handles fine with the tire mismatch in the rear. All tires are the same size BTW.

I have a set of 16x8 Centerline two piece with 245-45ZR16 Toyo RAs with center caps. Tires have a few more track days left in them. Wheels are light and strong. PM me and I can send a photo of them on my 240Z. Pete

The solution so far has been a new head build using the BSR head as a guide from a porting perspective. We didn't go crazy with long valves, tall springs, machined spring seats, and shimmed towers. It is an E31 with the BSR porting, N42 valves, performance springs, and a Norris 490/280 cam. The head was only lightly resurfaced. So the compression ratio is probably around 11.5 - 12:1. Before we were closer to 13.5:1. So far no issues, but we really need to wait for warmer weather to be sure. Still goes like hell. I don't know for sure if tilting the hood is good or bad for getting hot air out of the engine compartment. A freind who worked on the BSR team in the 70s suggested it at a vintage event. Heck, we were willing to try anytihing at that point, and it was easy to do.

That is a pretty serious implosion there. The worst I've had one blow is under full boost (330ft-lbs) in the thrid gear, a loud bang, and then a bucket of bolts sound. That pretty much destroyed the internals. We used the bell housing to fix a different 5-speed that had the clutch go at 120MPH on the dyno, blowing a hole in the side. Use the bell housing for your 240SX swap. The rest is probably junk. Pete

do you have the AFR plot? That will shed light on where you are not getting most out of your build. i would think that you could get at least another 20HP with a good tune. My 2.8L with no head work and a mild cam made the same power when tuned correctly. So a 3.1 with a hotter cam should make a lot more.

Wow, love the intake box made from a valve cover.

I have the mold they used to make this one:

On my motor it was blowing bubbles into the cooling system. After a few laps it started getting hot, and the overflow tank was overflowing. There was still pressure in the system by the time I go to the paddock, but the radiator was about 1/2 air. I am also using the AZ radiator with ducting.

Put the shaft in a vise loosely with the gear resting on top of the vise. A few good hits on shaft will drive it out of the gear. I did this many years ago and was amazed on how easy it was to drive it out. Then I gutted a distributor. I keep the shaft and distributor in a bag together so it is easy to find the next time I need to prime an engine.

Note that I didn't say what was in the trash can! $3k later, we have a new head.....

It looks like the problem was the head. Shaved 2mm, and 13.5:1 CR, it was leaking into the water jacket at high RPMs. Even a MLS gasket wouldn't seal it. I could see where the leakage was happening. There isn't much room between the coolant hol and the combustion chaMber on #5 in one area. We built another head last fall. we'll know for sure in a few weeks. 300HP can empty a trash can pretty darn fast!

I'm not sure. I don't think Coke would care. Bob gave us permission, and also hooked us up with the guy that originally painted a the BSR cars to get hte measurements and colors. John had the masks made up. The rest was done with 3/4" tape. Now comes the miles of black pin stripe.

In some clubs there is a weight penalty to run an L28 in a 240Z. Other clubs just put you in with some crazy IMSA cars so that you can get your but kicked. Same if you run wider than 7" wheels and slicks. Other clubs don't care. John got put into the under 2.5 liter class and cleaned up.

When you prime the engine on the stand, you are not turning it over. You are just filling the oil galleys as if the engine had already been started. Once the engine is primed, it is ready to start. For stock motors with stock cams and valve springs this doesn't matter. When you have a high lift cam, and matching stiff springs, you have to go these lengths to ensure that the cam and rockers get broken in properly.

Sounds sweet. Nice track. Perfect for the Z. Here is the L28 I built for my vintage racer on a Superflow dyno. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/psanders240/media/clubcar/VIDEO0004.mp4.html

The last engine I built I had zero issues with cam/rocker break in. Here is the configuration: New .530 lift Isky cam on new CWC blank, cryo treated Isky cam lube Resurfaced OEM rockers cryo treated with REM ISF treatment Stock oil restrictors in E31 head Stock early E31 spray bar (cam was also drilled for lubrication) I primed engine on the stand with electric drill, distributor with guts removed, and distributor shaft with gear removed. This is extremely important as you can verify that all cam oil holes (both in cam and spray bar) are flowing. It can take upwards of 15 seconds to get oit to the cam on a dry engine. I primed the engine with Valvoline VR1 (high zinc), and Redline break-in additive. After a season of events, the cam looks beautiful. No signs of wear on cam or rockers. Since break-in I've only run Brad Pen 20W50. Did you prime the engine? If not, I think this is what caused the damage. Most likely it happen after running dry the first few seconds after startup.

Bob already signed it when it was BRE Livery. He should like the new paint job

It was a BRE scheme before: Now BSR livery:

They are very similar to a set I have. I'm planning on using them on my silver turbo car, so your car gives me a preview of what my car might look like. I plan on running 17" Rota RBs. I think they are 17x8.5 and 17x9.5. Thanks, Pete

You mean like this? This is the exaust on my 240Z vintage racer. It is similar to what they ran back in the day, except they didn't run any muffler at all. It sounds amazing.

Sounds really nice! What flares and wheels are you running? Looks sweet. Pete

Very nice. Like the coil brackets.

The signal going to the tach is inverted. Are you sure you have the diodes connected correctly?

You don't need an adjustable cam gear for the build you are doing. You just need to make sure everything lines up with the stock timing marks as per the manual. If you don't have a book on how to do a rebuild on an Lseries, get one.

Those are dished and for early L28E engines with N42 block and N47 head. You need to order them for an 82-83 280ZX non turbo.